Phizinza

The quad headlights use two 55watt highbeam's and something watt lights in the low beams (you'll notice when you go to highbeam the low beam light goes out, then another light in there comes on with a different angle.) So lets assume your using a 45watt in your 3rd eye light, 110watt + maybe 80watt. That's 235watts, divide that by your volts to get amps, so lets say 13volts. That's 18amps. If you have no other extras (loud stereo, etc) your car should really only use a max of about 15 to 20amps with the in cabin blower fan plus the radiator fan, plus another 18 odd amps in lights. You should have a 55amp alt. So I'd say another 260watts of lights should be ok. Of cause I would suggest an alt upgrade as yours is probably tired and won't get to 55amps anyhow. Lightforce are Hella's are IPF's are Anything else is either :cool: or or :-p

Yeah, I figured it was 4sp when I saw those detent nuts on the bottom..

Pitty about it's wheel base, otherwise it would be a good 4WD... hmm Hatchie 505 4X4??

I see.. Looks good. If my EA82 crossmember doesn't turn out I know what to do. Cheers GD.

You want a car to slide? That's how...

Part time doesn't have a center diff BTW. So you are saying, in the snow your car spins both right wheels? You may find if you are on a slope the wheels that are higher will more likely spin. As you have open front and rear differentials the ones on the left will not spin as there is more friction, weight, on them and there for the diff does it's job and sends power to the other wheel. If there is something wrong with your differentials you would know about it when driving straight as the car would pull to the left if only the right wheels were driving. All the "lo" gearset does is drops your drive output ratio. The low range is before everything in the gear box (it comes just after the clutch on your driveline) so there for it can only affect gearing, not differential... Unless something major is broken and somehow the crown wheel on your front diff is in contact with the second shaft for hte low range...

Yes, make 100% sure the peugeot wheels you are looking at are the standard 14" or 15" and not them 390mm ones. I tihnk only Michelin make those tires anymore and they cost a bucket load!

Alright.. I should really update this thread now... Here is the final creation that worked.. But here is why the others didn't! When I was putting the gearbox back together I missed out the dowel pins that hold the rear casing exactly right with the front two halves. This ment it was off by about 0.5mm and wouldn't engage. After loosing the bolts and putting the pins in I could ************ the diff locker with a screw driver the the shaft and my hand. ! Some more pictures, just because. The lever is a modified S/R push button 4WD lever.. Sorry, I don't have pictures of it before I cut it up. And as you can see there are a few holes that seem unneeded, thats me going through to many creations of the setup. I also have to cut the threads down on the vacuum solenoids cable to make up for the extra distance the original bracket had.

Alright.. An update of pictures! Because I found some more! ehhe Starting with the EJ's center differential http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22gearbox_vlsd_casing.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22gearbox_vlsd_casing2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22gearbox_vlsd_apart.jpg Moving on to the rear end of the EJ D/R gearbox with the rear casing removed http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22gearbox_backend_5thgear_pinionshaft.jpg Now going to my final gearbox setup, EJ FT4WD, lever and vacuum solenoid mount. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ft4wd_difflocker_lever.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ft4wd_difflocker_mount1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ft4wd_difflocker_mount2.jpg I know it's rough, but it works a wonder now Still no more work done to the car I am planning to make some new alloy lift blocks for the gearbox crossmember so I can put it all back together and finish the work the the EA82 boxes crossmember.. Pics of that when it's in and fitted.

Can you follow the wires back to each sensor/switch on the box? The switch on the left side is reverse, the others are like 4WD, nuetral, low range or something like that..

Yes, desiring to learn something is always a mega plus. Basiclly, I think I'm a "have to be doing it to learn" kinda person. But if others can learn other ways, thats great, and I would like to be able to. It just never seems to stick in my head when I read a text book about something.

I'll start looking at Liberty's and talk to my bro and his mate to find out if either want to do a EJ conversion.. If mine works out good I am sure someone I know will want an EJ sooner rather then later.

Sounds like good fun. Keep us updated on the car mods, and get some video of it!

Looks pretty sweet.. I'd like to build a dune buggy with a high power subie motor one day. I'd prefer to make one, not just get a kit though.

http://offroadingsubarus.com/6stud_conversion.html That's my artical on my site I wrote after doing mine. Only problem I found is the studs didn't want to stay in, so I got to them with the mig.. A 13.4mm drill bit would of done a much better job I reckon instead of my 14mm.

Sorry, I can't really help here. I got all my knowledge from my dad and just doing things on cars. It seems now I know more then my dad about cars. I have learn't an amazing amount about Subaru's from this forum (pretty much the only one I use as most of the others I have learn't zilch from.) But with things like the gearbox build up I found that commen sence was the only thing to get me through as there was no one anywhere on the internet I could find in the 2 months of research and questions.. Logic and commen sence FTW! I find you also need a "need" to learn something. Like you can't just read about how a gearbox works and then know everything about it. You need you either fix it or want to upgrade it to learn how it works. I find that learning like that also stays in your memory and you won't forget it. It's pretty much the only way I seem to be able to learn things.

I haven't been following your thread as of late, what trans do you plan to use? AWD EJ?Know anyone with a TIG welder?? You could weld on some new places to bolt the EA82 mounts to the AWD box, ehehe. Probably easier to just make a custom gearbox crossmember. Do you have one of those to compare/mod to your Brat? I can get pictures of mine and the stock EA81 one.. I'll see what I cna do.

I like bored...

If you plan to only go slow in this rig, i.e rock crawling only you may bet away with just using high grade tube steel to increase axle leigth. Just get some with the exact ID was your axles OD and weld it in with a mig welder. Do you want to run the same strut and control arm design or go to a double wish bone setup? You can easily increase the control arms with some thick bar steel and a mig welder. If I were to increase wheel base I would be looking at 4 to 6 inches each side. I would also do a 8" lift and use double wish bone with a extra t-case blah blah blah... I was also looking at using two bigger 4WD IFS front ends front and rear on a subie, but if you want to keep it custom or Subaru, then that won't work. But it would give you 4WS if you wanted You could do it rather cheap if you know how to weld and know what whats and what doesn't when it comes to suspension.. As for power, if you use a extra t-case it won't bother you much, as crawling is normally slow. But I bet you'd want to go to a EJ sooner then later. Pretty easy really. Check out Rooinater's build up of his " lil' roo ". Good luck, and take millions of photos!

These are my kumho M/T's, they are pretty good in sand. 205mm wide http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/kuhmo_mt_tread.jpg Almost as good on flat sand were my brothers almost bald 185mm wide LT Van tires http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subaru_ea81wagon_stuckinmud3.jpg BTW, they had about as much tread as you can see in that picture. And my 215mm wide directional street tires. Which are totally crap in sand. With a locked rear diff they had more trouble then a stock Subie with 170/75R13's... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subie_mudsplash.jpg Tire tread is alot to do with it. The M/T's can climb great, where the LT's can't. If you stop the LT's are good as they bearlyt dig even if you spin a wheel. I think the street tires were bad because they are directional and made to push water out, but instead pushed sand out sunk. With most M/T's you can go as low as 10 to 12 PSI without problems, I've seen people run 8PSI, just have to be gental on the power. With the LT Van tires we used to run 14PSI, they have a pretty good side wall (something like 6 ply, so they can go pretty low.) I didn't let my road tires down, but I doubt it would of helped as they are pretty small tire wall. start at 18psi, if you have a problem, don't try and get the car out before lowering to 10PSI... It makes all the difference. If it's a beach stay away from where high tide can reach or else if you get stuck, well you can guess. Also follow peoples other tracks if there are any. Making your own isn't a great idea, as your car has to push more sand, plus in the tracks there alread the sand has been compressed. And finally, wash your car REALLY good after.. Sand (especially if it's beach sand) does wonders to bare metal where the paint has been scratched off.

Heres the best I can do for now. EJ gearbox mounts http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22gearbox_vlsd_casing.jpg EA82 gearbox mounts http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_onbench2.jpg But what I am doing is converting a EA82 gearbox crossmember to fit where the EA81 one does. I am doing this because EA81 mounts suck, and I think modding the EA82 one in is better then modding the smaller looking EA81 one to fit the EA82 mounts. I will have pictures of that soon I hope.

Anything must be better then my stock on. It broke in under 200km on the outer boot, lucky most of that was road stuff... Back to zip ties, if I need to change one I can in about 15mins. As there is no need to take the axle off. And I've already got my axle changing down to about 45mins As for how the car is going... Nothing new since last post.. I have cut the gearbox EA82 cross member to match the mounting of the old EA81 style, and now it needs a little welding and maybe a bit more grinding to make it fit, plus some holes drilled in it. I'm also replacing my steel 2" lift blocks with alloy 2" lift blocks while I have the plates off that hold everything back there.

Yeah you would need both. FYI that is the EA82 N/A casing when I was pulling it apart, I don't have pictures of the EJ D/R casing, but the only difference is it has a tiny detent hole on the left side of the casing up near the low range (as the EJ D/R is controled by a cable not a rod through the back half where the PT get's it's detent from.) I'm trying to find good pictures of my EJ casing, but no luck as yet, probably still on my bro's phone.. I am pretty sure every manual Liberty GX came with the D/R between 89 and 94. Not sure what later ones had. But I think the later ones had a different bolt pattern on the back where the center diff casing bolts on. You can probably pick up a damaged or old gearbox with good casing for $200 - $300 AUD exchange rate is around 0.77 or something, so $150 to $230 USD. I reckon boat mail would be $80 to $100 AUD (I really have no idea, so it could be less or more.) I would probably be happy to buy another Liberty GX wreck and strip it down for parts if someone in the US really wanted the casing.. It's always handy to have another EJ22 and wiring loom hanging around. EDIT: this is the detent thing I am talking about on the left hand side casing. It's just below where the low range shift lever goes into the casing. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks_detent3.jpg

That would be awesome... So if you used the EA82 N/A input gears with the Legacy output and pinion it would work if you guys were to just import the EJ D/R casing, with changing the 5th gear over.

Like... Cannonball Run FTW!