Phizinza

Thanks guys! I'm working on cutting up a EA82 gearbox crossmember to fit the EA81. This is because I don't have any good EA81 mounts and never in my life have seen any good ones. Where most of the EA82 mounts look good. I have pictures, but can't upload them right now.. I'll update on that later, gotta make sure it works first. I've also pulled the left drive shaft again (second time this year) to fix the stupid boot clip things and clean the dirt out of the rubber to metal joint. Other then that, not much has happened, but that's because I am lazy... Hopefully I can fix that before the weekend

By radius I do mean caster. It is both the same thing, and I just call it radius as that is what the radius rod is called on the Subaru's. If stock form with the back torsion bar right the way up you can see the struts at leaning forwards, this creates Negative radius/caster, this is bad, as at full lock you will get about 13degrees of positive camber on the wheel taking the weight... VERY BAD... (I'm no expert, this is just how I see it.) If you don'e want to touch the control arm. You will have to get new shockers with springs more like the rear EA82 springs and a smaller top hat for the strut. Then weld a plate into the top of the strut tower and drill a set of new holes I would say about 35 - 40mm backwards and 5 to 8mm inwards. But I am not sure on exactly what the measurements should be.. Basicly, you want your shocker leaning backwards or completely upright, and you want your camber at 0degrees or a little negative. The EA81 is completely opersite to that. I have no idea why, it just seems pointless. The EA82's have pretty much upright caster/radius, so I guess Subaru leanrt their leasson.

Nah, that's cool. I'm glad you are bringing up new ideas that we can talk about. Theres always a better way around something. I know my method is crude and most likely illegal in every country and state. And the problem with it is it looks modified. If we could come up with something you really couldn't tell that it wasn't stock, that would be great. Kinda like using one of those slideshow86 showed us. But I don't think that would be good in the dirt. So maybe we can come up with an a-arm setup that looks original? Hmm.

I am running the EA82 arms with 28mm removed. This gives the car 0degrees of camber. The problem right now is because cutting isn't 100% accurate, my left wheel has about 1 degree positive camber and the right has a tiny bit of negative, .5 degrees maybe? I am going to be installing camber adjuster cams that I am making in the next couple of weeks, I'll update on that. If you want a handling machine and don't care about tire wear I would cut out 26mm's and install some kinda of camber adjuster. This will give you a wide range of camber to choice from. probably +2 to -6 at a guess.

Turbone, that paint job rocks.. (not the first time I've seen it, but I always think the same thing when I do see it.)

I have no clue why people like the NGK's over others.. My car came with Denso's and they lasted ages, I finaly replaced them because I thought they were causing a miss fire but the new NGK's were the exact same... I've seen old looking bosch plugs in a EA81 at the JY, nothing wrong with them at all.. The way I see it, a cheap spark plug is a cheap spark plug.

Here we go, Yes I know it's not Subaru... But.. lol

You thinking it's time to buy up big?

Not hard at all.. If I could just get my hands on one of those body's cheapish I would do it.

A guy here in Australia runs a EJ22 on LPG and 7psi Superchager boost. Hasn't had a problem I know of. Search for "Wonder Brumby" here if you want to look at the car.

Have you tried putting the wheel back on and getting under the car, then kicking the wheel while under the car.. You can get a pretty bit hit with your foot.

Now we are upto yesterday. 6th of February 2007 Then engine is out with gearbox as well. So is the welded rear diff and all the gear linkages. I have the EJ22 engine sitting there with the EJ flywheel ready to go on the EJ dualrange with EJ clutch and center diff locker with EA82 mounts. So my first problem here was... The EA82 mounts are different to the EA81. I never remember hearing about that! So now it's time to go do some research to find out how people do that. I will post some pictures in a minute. here are serveal pictures of the EA82 turbo crossbred gearbox (basiclly just all about the center diff locker) http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_onbench.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_onbench2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_rearremoved_center_diff.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_rearremoved_diff_engager.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_rearremoved_diff_engager_frontview.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_fithgear_selectors.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_casingsplit_leftside.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_casingsplit_rightside.jpg here are some pictures from a few months back when I pulled the EJ22 and striped the wiring loom (which I hope works, not tested yet) http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_engine_crane.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom4.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom3.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_finished.jpg and some photo's of the detent mod to the low range shift lever, so when you shift into low or high range it holds in and doesn't pop out when on really bumpy terrain http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks_detent.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks_detent2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks_detent3.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/lseries_liberty_gearboxhybrid_lowrangeshiftforks_detent4.jpg I will be editing then write up here to go on my site when I get the time.

Edit: SUCCESS!!! Read down page 6! Alright.. I've been keeping pretty quite on this because I knew it would take forever to get it done. What I am doing is putting a EJ22 in my Brat/Brumby with a Subaru Liberty(Legacy) gearbox casing, which is running a normal EA82 diff with 23splines and a normal EA82 gearset, but it is running the ring gear, pinion shaft and centre diff locker from a turbo EA82 car. This gives me AWD on road and 4WD offroad so the EJ22 doesn't just burn rubber. I am also going to have something different for the rear diff, but I'll talk more on that later when it's underway (I run a welded rear at the moment, and am not looking forward to going back to open.) So, this all started about 5months ago. I had a Subaru Liberty wreck sitting in my driveway with a good running motor and gearbox noise for a few months and my mates "are you doing to do the swap yet" questions were getting on my nerve. See, I had decided that I was happy with my car... But well, I'm doing the conversion now. I started looking at the FT4WD gearboxes because I like on-road driving and plenty of people say EJ22 in FWD is kinda interesting. So I decided if I'm running a EJ22 it's either with a t-case (totally illegal here) or it's with AWD. Now the LSD centers on the dual range EJ gearboxes aren't any good for anything but road and sand. So It had to be 4WD. After seeing lots of pictures of the FT4WD gearbox (thanks to this forum) and after removing the EJ22 and gearbox from the Liberty I relised the gearboxes look the same!! So then after about 2months research I figured it had a 99% chance of working and I got one of those jap import FT4WD gearboxes. On a side note here, the gearbox I got was not a normal turbo diff locker box. It had already had the center diff locker rear end bolted to a normal EA82 gearbox. I think they done this because the diff locker was from a single range gearbox. So this is why I stuck with the EA82 23 spline front diff. I pulled both the Liberty and the modified turbo box apart and found it was going to work. I also found the problem noise in the Liberty box which I thought was a bearing it turned out it was the nut on 5th gear input side, it was lose. So after making the EA82 low range lever work with the detent, welding and some drilling with some grinding, I had the gearbox going back together. To torque the diff properly and pinion shaft I done it home workshop style. I used the pinion shims from the Liberty casing in the Liberty casing with the EA82 gears and pinion. I then set the left side diff cap so the back lash was just feelable. Then I tightend the right side one. I done this over and over till the diff felt the same as the other 5sp gearbox I had and had a tiny bit of backlash as recommended by manuals. This was after 5 or so hours of research finding out how to do this properly (which is done with 3 Subaru special tools.) Some might tell me this won't work, but I can't see why not. We removed a mates 5sp and the left side diff caps was loose! And because this had the tooth washer holder we figured the gearbox would of have to of been like that for more then 12,000km and this mate of mine is VERY rough with his gearboxes. Also that gearbox had no noises, only removed it because the synchros were going. Here comes the fun bit, making the diff locker work. This took us ages to figure out why once we had the gearbox together that it too 50 - 60Nm to engage the diff locker. The vacuum solenoid could only push and pull about 20Nm. After pulling the back off the gearbox 5 or so times and making three different lever and mount designs (box didn't come with original mount for the actuator cable) we figured out it was 2 missing alignment pins between the front two piece section of the gearboxs and the rear section which holds the diff and engager lever. Once those pins were installed it worked with only hand pressure on the lever. And the vacuum solenoid works great!

That's a good thing to hear. We are planning of doing the t-case mod to my brothers 83wagon. Which will be running on tires probably similar to yours. When we do this, I reckon I will have a new look on modified subarus for offroad. And maybe when I get the 2.2 in my Brat I will find it a little better offroad. As for the whole Kia discussion (those for and against it) ..... ahahahaha. You guys need to settle down. Who cares if someone thinks their little Kia can beat your roo. Just say one thing, and one thing only "if you think it is better, prove it now."

I cut 30mm or there about out of the arm, and it makes it just a tiny bit longer then the EA81 arm. So you would be looking at the bottom of the hub out about 30mm wider. This would make for what looks to be 5-10 degrees of negative camber.. 1-2 degrees is good for road handling.

Arms are great still.. Although they haven't seen much driving since my mudding about 5 weeks ago. They coped with being air bourn a few times and soon they will have to cope with my driving with AWD and a EJ22 (eheheheh.) I'll update when they break, but some how I get the feeling I'll be selling this car before then, or maybe my grand children will be driving it, I'll tell them to update you should I? If you use uncut ones then you will need to bring the top of the knuckle out about 1.5" or so. This would get complecated as there is no where near that room on the strut tower. Although if you did do this somehow you can just use EA82 drive shafts and it should work no worries. But if I were to do anything like this for a offroader rig, I would do complete custom double wish bone with a 8"+ lift (t-cased) and use either EA82 drive shafts or maybe 6" extended ones. Well probably get some hubs and brakes from a bigger truck and then use some better driveshafts from it. Subarus just have tiny driveshafts... I can't see how you could make this arm of mine any stronger without just adding more steel. I would say it is more strong then the original, but take what ever opinion you wish, I don't mind.

What is your Subaru? EA81, EA82, EJXX? In other words, MY Wagon, Hatch or Brat, Loyal GL/DL, Legacy, Outback? Or again in other words, what year and shape? heh.. Is it 4WD now, or 2WD?

Most people here refer to that kind of car as a "soft roader". I am starting to call my subaru a soft roader too, kinda confuses people. But really it's not much better then some stock 4x4's.

You call that dirty!? My Brat looked a lot better then that in the picture for a few weeks (but now it's getting cleaned ready for the 2.2L swap) The wagon is still that dirty, and still lacking a reverse gear after that day I like the hatches, It's interesting how different the front end makes the car look. Your mum's is very shiny, I like shiny

I'd say they are counted as skinny.

... STi oil cap?? :-\:-p Looks like fun.

Thanks Subi81, I never thought about doing the math on it. I have a lever setup now, but I need it a little longer, it is only using 6mm of movement out of the 16mm available from the solenoid. My new setup which I will complete when I can get my brother to weld this lever up will use 12mm of the movement and I am pretty sure it is more then the original. I hopw this all works... Then it's to wiring a switch on to it and placing it somewhere on my dash... Cheers for the help guys!

Don't mean to pick holes at you, just want you to know the right info.There is an EZ30, and an EG33. Also subarubrat has an ER27. See, I can do my part at spreading "true" information too.

Probably a stolen car as well... after all, how stupid could you get to rob a place in your own car..