Phizinza

So you think it will work at the slow speeds I want it to while still giving good power to the wheels?

Ok.. So I'm looking at replacing my with a Liberty (Legacy). I was thinking of possibly getting an auto... I'm usually not into automatics, but I was thinking it might work better at the speeds I race at along with bigger tyres..See I plan to lift it 6 or so inchs, and fit 31's to 33's on it. With a manual I can get a D/R gearbox and run a 4.11 diff, but I'm still thinking at 10 to 40kph racing speeds an auto might work ok and would remove the whole needing to change gears thing! So my questions are, can the 4sp auto hold up to running much larger tyres like this while being hammered around a track like I race on (motocross for 4wd's is how I usually explain it). And also will it work well at 10 to 40kph racing speeds, at rpm's like 4000 to 6000...?

Spring stopped some of it... hopefully it doesnt get any worse..

Not sure if the US uses the term Hoon.... it means driving like a d***h*** doing burnouts and spinning the wheels all the time. Interesting... So you day the throwout bearing could make a sound almost the same as a tyre spinning? If it is that... damn.... I really don't want to pull the engine out again. I just want to sell the freakin car.

So my clutch is making noises which sound almost identical to tyres chirping. It does it when taking off, changing into second and sometimes into third. Also it doesn't do it if I don't rev when letting out the clutch. I've had this for a while now and just recently change the engine over for one with less miles on it. I found the old engines pressure plate and flywheel had some strange markings and was slightly dished out. So I used the new engines flywheel and pressure plate along with the old friction disc (as it looked in good condition and I've got a 5sp swap in my EA81 so I needed the EA82 friction disc and this was the only one I had). But it is still doing it. There was no oil in there. The clutch grips great still. Can be in 4th gear going 60kph, push clutch in, rev to 5k and drop and it jerks and grips right away. So I'm confused.. Problem with it, is it sounds like I'm driving like an idiot everywhere and I'm worried the cops are gonna pull me over for hoon driving soon. Any ideas what the problem might be caused by? And a fix without swapping the clutch?

I changed the engine yet again in my 83 Leone for another EA81. Now I've got an exhaust leak and I've got to replace my inner cv (DOJ) boots on both front shafts. That should happen today.

There was a guy in australia who put a 13b in a 82 or 83 coupe.. he ran AWD too I believe.

The knuckles have a different roll radius. The calipers have a larger bolt pattern. And the discs are a little bit bigger. Also the rear bearing seal on the knuckle on EA82's are slightly larger, thus why EA82 axles won't work too well in EA81 knuckles. It will all bolt up, but you will have horrible positive camber.

I'd say because you are using rims rated for 800kg each and putting no more then 350kg on them you probably wouldn't have a problem with it. Also not all 6 stud wheels have beefier centres where the lug nuts hold on, only some.

Thanks, just the info I was after... Now to find some time to get around to it!

Sorry, I was meaning the holes in the 6 stud wheels. To make them look original 4 stud.

It ended in 22seconds of not being able to breath while still racing. Two front strut tops blown apart, two bent at the bottom struts, both seat rear mounts punched through the bottom of the car and a very sore neck... Crowd loved it though! Had to finish the 3kms left of the track after it too. Good fun when you can only breath 15 to 20% of normal... well that's what it felt like.

Well, I'm a perfectionist, so..... I would just go 6 stud, but I plan to sell this car and I had trouble with the last I sold because it was modified like that. Now if I just weld up the old holes and drill some new ones it will look original...

I know its the friction. But I also know a tapered fitting holds much tighter then flat on flat bolt and wheel. Think about ball joints and how tight they hold without when you are trying to get them apart. Looks like 60 degrees is the angle.

Can anyone tell me how they got the right taper angle for the wheel nuts to tighten up properly when they done this mod? Cheers, Phiz

My contribution.

My EJ22 FT4WD BRAT had 215/60R15 directional road tread and a 320mm steering wheel. I have no trouble with it. But someone who drove it said it was a bit heavy.

No, what bends is the strut at the bottom. In the EA, where it "slots in" to the knuckle it bends right at that mount. I'll have to go get a picture for you.

With the EJ it would be easy enough to weld on extra reinforcing around the outside. The EA doesn't allow for this because the "slot in" type fitment.

weight?

This is just for more travel and a lift for an old 83 wagon. But you can pretty much weld anything you want when the shocker is out of the strut so changing spring perches is no trouble. These inserts are 388mm long body opposed to the standard 360mm struts. And have about 200mm travel opposed to the 125mm standard 4WD struts come with. So all up great for a 2 to 3 inch body lift and offer 3" more travel. I did however find they were weaker then standard (bent them doing jumps in the race wagon) but for general off road use they would be fine. Also you can beef up the outside of the strut to increase strength so..... For some reason not all photos are showing up here, so click this link to see them http://img64.imageshack.us/g/10102009960800

After doing some EA82 head gaskets I would say going to studs would help a lot. Those bolts are freakin annoying.

I was actually planning on doing something similar for a while. Good to see you've done it! May I ask to embed these videos on a page on my OffroadingSubarus.com site MilesFox? They look like a good video resource! Cheers, Phiz

So the heads have to come off? They won't just fall out through the push rod passages?..