Phizinza

Ahhh.. Are you talking about the imp that was converted to a Brat?

I am putting the internals from one 5sp into another 5sp casing. What I need to know is how to I re-tension the pinion/output shaft so it doesn't eat the gearbox apart when I use it? The part you tension is the back of the output shaft right? The one with a couple of shims (one gearbox had 2 shims the other had 3.) I don't need to tension the imput shaft do I? And also how do I tension the front diff? As I am using that out of the other gearbox too. Are those things around the splines just big screws and you turn those to get the right tension? Any idea how to measure that? Thanks in advance

?? Hmmm, weird. Just so we know we're on the right track here. http://www.tonyrigoliperformance.com.au/subaru-brumby_gold.html is that the car you are talking about? Cos that's the one I'm talking about. And as far as I know, it never left the country. Sorry, wrong again, it has a EJ22 stroked the 2.4L..

It doesn't count bcause it's not mine. But on Ebay australia there was a 91 Brumby (Brat) that had 263km on it. I mean 263, not 263,000.. The owner bought it new and put it in the shed after a couple of drives. Then he got it out and wanted to sell it. How weird. He wanted about 3 times the going price though, I know it was new, but still... Mine has about 270,000km on the body. The motor is a mix match block with the dual carb stuff so I have no idea about that.

I thought the ER27 had chains. But I'm not sure. I've seen a cut away EZ30 on a cut away auto trans. And it did have timing chains.. Althought I thought the EG33 also had chains..

Sad to hear about the damage. Mayeb next time pull over and let idiots go by. Works for me. I would love to drive in some snow.. It's 37 degrees C outside right now. :-\

When he jacks up one rear wheel he can turn it by it's self with the car off. So I assume this is just the solenoid locking the clutch up when the car is going. Anyway, thanks for your help. We'll see what we can do with the new solenoid.

BBC? That's britsh TV. What you saw was Australian. Oh, and it USED to have a big turbo sticking out the bonnet. I heard it got burnt in a warehouse fire, all gone now.. It had a EJ20 stroked to 2.2, single HUGE turbo, forgot what the model was. it also ran NOS and had plenty of other stuff. And it used the WRX gearbox too, of cause. There is another one now that is blue has has a custom Auto trans for drags. It doesn't have as much HP, but it's fast. Get that car, and put the whole driveline in your Brat.. Suspension and all.. It would be killer.

There is a guy who lives here in South Australia that is putting the EG33 in a 83 Brat. Should be interesting.. I don't have any info on it atm, maybe later I'll find out whats going on with it.

It's a 91.. Liberty's are exactly the same as Legacy's (so they are 89-07, atm) Just a different name. It doesn't have that light that flashes 16 times. With the FWD fuse in it does have the FWD dash light. He got a place to check the ECU (or maybe the autos comp?) codes and it came up with a bad duty C solenoid. He is looking into getting another, so if it might not be that, nows the time to tell me how to find out what it really is. Cheers guys for your help.

I just got told that it is always driving the rear wheels as well as the front wheels with the FWD fuse in or not. Sounds maybe like the clutch is gone?

Ok, didn't think of that one. I searched plenty of other things such as 4EAT bind, auto bind, etc etc... But not torque bind. I found this thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651&highlight=torque+bind Which was useful to explain how the center clutch works and what it looks like. Also it seemed to say to me that you need to pull the trans apart to find the problem. So there is no diagnosing we can do?

A mate of mine has an auto Subaru Liberty(Legacy) sedan and he says it's binding up. He thought it was the rear diff binding up and turning into more of a soild diff. But my brother took the car for a drive and reckons it's the center coupling. Can anyone give some suggestions on what to check first to find out whats the problem? I've got him to try the FWD fuse in to see if it still has the problem in FWD. That might tell us if it's a center or rear diff. Also, could someone explain what the center "diff" is in the autos? Is it just a clutch pack that engages the rear wheels, or is it two clutch packs that spread between the front and rear, or does it actually have a diff in there which is some sort of clutch pack LSD? Cheers,

That's the models I'm talking about (I don't think I could bring myself to buy a new car.) ... nissans suck ... :-p ahah

I'm not 100% sure on this with EJ's, but I think you may be wrong here. See, when they turbo a car they usualy reduce the compression of the motor. This in turn leaves you with less torque unless the turbo is spooled and is making up for the lack in compression. But like I say, this may not be the case with this motor his running. But I know it is for the EA turbos. I'm not saying the turbo is a bad thing, and I agree it would have plenty of power all the time. But still I like high comp N/A engines. It's a bit like riding a 250cc 2stroke vs a 400cc 4 stroke, I like constant power, and lots of it.

I'd say the head gaskets I use are about 1.5mm to 2mm thick at a guess. I really should know because I've had to pull the head off this engine more then 4 times, for things not related to the head gaskets. I was thinking laser cut copper gaskets..

I've seen it, but I don't have the time to look ATM, sorry.

Sorry.... The Tacoma is still a great 4WD, even without the diesel.. I reckon a Daihatsu Rocky would be one of the best 4WD's with little modification. And from what I gather they are available in the US. Although I don't know if they would be diesel or not.

I think a email to SUB4 is in order... Maybe I should wait til the new EJ is in my car and working..

Sorry mate, but your looking at the wrong brand. (just my opinion, I have driven a couple of different 4WD's) I'm not sure if you get the Daihatsu 4WD range over there, but, I drove a stock Feroza SX and it was pretty good. Runs on 28" tires as stock and has a 1.73:1 low ratio, and as standard something like 5.12:1 diffs. But even better (well I think so) is my brothers Toyota Hilux/Tacoma. It has a 2.5:1 low ratio, and I think 4.7:1 diffs? His is a 01 model with the 3L TDi we got here in Australia. But the older ones are pretty much the same. And since your stuck with petrol over there basiclly you just have to pick old, solid axle front, or new, IFS. I know the Toy won't get as good mileage, but it isn't to bad. I also like the Suzuki's, but I have never driven one so I can't comment. Of cause, if you think the low range in the Subie is good enough, just get another 85+ with the 1.59:1 low and 3.9 diffs. And then put SPFI on it for better mileage.

See here lies a problem.. The block on of my engine can't be a dual carb block (engine number is one from around the 87, 88, 89 period.) I know it has the dual carb cam, but I don't know about the pistons.. And the whole Idea of higher compression is so I don't feel like I need to supercharge it. I also like high compression power over boosted power, it feels better.And really, 9.5 to 1 just isn't enough for me.. I want crazy power Plus custom pistons means forged, which is lighter, so more power straight away. Talking about that, what else could I get custom for lighter internals? (remember, this isn't for offroad, its for 8K RPM+ power )

That's a very good point to bring up... A lot of gutlessness is blamed on it being a old design. But I believe (from expierence) that most of the time you can get a good 10 to 20hp out of an old engine with a complete rebuild of all the things that wear down. New disty points, springs, weights, rotor, cap. New carb or carb rebuild, new air filter. New bearings, seals everywhere. New valve seats, maybe even valves. You get the point.. By brother got a wrecked 82 wagon, it's engine looked very much rebuilt. It had 170PSI in all four cyliders. And I reckon it is cranking out 80hp with the stock EA82 carb. It's very close match to a mates EA82 with a weber. Just lacking in the torque department.

I done it.. well I didn't get it to the point of working because I decided to use a EJ trans. But... Heres the problems I could see that would not work. The teeth on the starters gear don't have the right shaping to blend into the flywheel because you are using the side you cut off. Plus you can't see where the starters gear is to figure out where the new hole in the adaptor will go to hole the starter in the right place so it doesn't blow up anything important. Lets say I'm 90% sure it would work. It's just the gear shaping, which is easy to re-make if you have a dremel tool I guess. As for making the gear fit on the starter backwards, that was a lot of fun... I mad up a custom spring that was the right legth. Used a circlip that had most of the bits around the two holes cut off. And in the process I got the starter solinoid smoking Anyway, lots of messing around, but it is possible like all other things.

Seems the heads I have already have big valves, and I don't want them to crack either, I figured I might leave them alone. A polish might be useful though. And because it is already the performance dual carb engine the cam is also pretty good. As stock it should have 108hp. I'd like to see something like 135hp. I'll look into better rods, although I have bearly heard of problems with them (only once in the 2 and a bit years of interneting Subies.) I kinda figured it being a pushrod motor and the likeliness of bending a valve from a rod failure being a couple of million to one I didn't need to worry too much about interference or not. I just won't compression that is through the roof. Something that needs the 102 octane fuel

When everyone gives you a look, and you have no idea why...