Phizinza

Sorry, but could you please tell me what the area head is? I'm not too familier with the terms of the internals of the engine and how they make a difference as yet.

That's very interesting.. Probably wouldn't need to cut the control arms like I did if you just done that. It looks sterdy enough.

How much compression do you think my EA81dc (dual carb/different heads) could take? I am looking at custom pistons. I was thinking something like 12:1... This is ofcause not turbo'd and I am not planning on turboing/SC it. Also there are 3 types of custom pistons. I have no idea what the differenced do. I will look into it tomorrow, but can anyone tell me what is better for what? Flat Top, Dome Top, Reverse Top...

That's interesting, mine have places for 4 studs, but of cause only have two. If I were to get a new exhaust I would make it have all four. But now it's time for EJ I think you'll find the site is http://www.stratus2000.homestead.comAlso check out the weberized EJ22 in there

I believe the EA71 pistons are slightly better then standard EA81 pistons for compression.

Well I just pulled the diff locker trans apart. Which is the same as the PT only it has the turbo diff locker rear end on it. I got a fair few pics of it, but I don't have them on my site just yet. When I pull the PT4WD apart (should be in the next couple of days) I'll get some pics of cause. I'll see if I can get the pics from the FT4WD up tomorrow sometime.

I'm sure it has more then 150nm in the low RPM's, I think that shoud do for most hills you need to go up.

I'll tell you next week I hope... And I will try my ever so hardest not to..

What do people think about using the EJ flywheel and clutch (seems the splines are the same as the EA82 5sp's) and then doing custom work to the starter motor. I figured it you space the EJ starter motor about 12mm out and flip the gear about, new spring and clip to hold the gear on, after cutting the back of the gear off you would have maybe a ok working setup? I was going to try this, but it looks like I will be using a EJ trans now.

Nice interior... We only got blue and brown here in Australia. I like the grey. As said before, ask a lot of questions. Maybe go have a look at it too?

Let us know in a few thousand miles how the gearbox is holding up. I would really like to know how tough they are, and maybe clear up some myths while we're at it. I like the tires. I would like them on my Bobbed Brat Project you can see in the offroad section.

I would so solid axles and all that, but it has been done before. And I want to see how tough these subaru drivelines really are.. The only real reason I want to do this is the beat this Bits-r-missin Pajero tube body buggy that a fellow subaru club member has. And to beat it at everything I need more front end clearence, more rear end clearence, and better gearing. Hence the picture on post 1. But I might be interested in this gen 1 brumby boy is talking about for street ride... Hmm, I'll have to see what goes. Later

I am going to start pulling the boxes apart tomorrow, so let me know. Other wise I will just try and get as many detailed pics as possible.

PM or email me with the details... Although I have no money I am still interested Cheers mate.

Plenty in his gallery http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6432&what=allfields&name=Free%20Range

Look mate, I can't say for sure as I have never owned a auto (and never plan too, I learned in one and I hated it.) I have just been told by at least 3 different people that it is a bad idea and can cause damage. And damage to an auto is like $$$$... and no home jobbies here either

This may or may not be helpful as my setup in this picture is a bit home made custom job... Which parts looks bent or broken/snapped on your car vs this picture? In the picture I have a <-- pointing to the ball joint. The part at the bottom that you can see is just a thread. above the thread is a tappered rod that goes through the control arm. This then gets bigger and goes into the steering hub (which I have not listed in the picture.) The caliper also bolts to the steering hub and so does the steering rack and shock absorber. And so on. I'm just saying this to give you more knowledge on how all this stuff works. From what you explaine it sounds like the nut on the end of the drive shaft (big one in the center of the wheel) has sheared off and the wheel has ripped the brake disc and caliper with it. This means you may need a new drive/axle shaft (which has both CV joints on it already, btw) plus a new hub (part that you bolt the brake disc and wheel too) plus a new caliper, brake disc, brake lines, handbrake cable and maybe something else I missed. But if the steering hub is damaged, then it could need a lot more, or maybe even less. Any pics of the damage you can get to us is a really great start. So the wheel is completely dissconnected from the car?? wow... I'm almost interested in the pics for the soul purpose of seeing what broke first. I hope this hasn't confused to much more. And more importantly I hope it helped. Welcome to the board!

I have no problem with re-posting things. It's good as we are always getting new members and we don't want them bringing up old topics all the time (well thats what most seem to say, I don't really care.) I have a link to this on my site. I don't like the look, but I appreciate the effort gone into it. I really gotta get into some body work some time.

I'm not 100% sure, but doesn't the EA82 run the same pistons as the EA81. It's the EA82 SPFI that has the more compression ratio. Standard EA81 compression in my FSM says 9.0 to 1. Which is the same as the EA82 specs. We didn't get EA82 SPFI here in Australia so I'm not too sure you see. I've heard the EA71 pistons are higher then 9 to 1, but not as good as SPFI EA82 ones.

insane for a subaru... I like it

Trust me, if I could find one here I may do it to it.. But more likely do it up as a classic as they are a little rare... Everything I have said in here I can do my self and will be very cheap. Most expensive parts will be the Tcase and EJ.

Ok, cool. I understand now. The Brat is a pretty stupid japanese passenger car though, hey.. Only thing going for it is a little less weight and it's looks.

What we all have to understand here is we don't do this stuff for MAX POWA. We do it because it is fun... If you have a problem with that.. Stuff ya! :-p

I don't understand.... Never mind...

I don't think he wants a japanese passenger car. I think he wants a power house rally machine (which I don't think a EA81 can really do, but it's fun to try, right?) I'm not talking italian supercars. I'm talking Fiat sedans... I'm not quite sure what you ment about the EA82 flywheel, as the flywheel in both my 89 Brumby and my Brothers 83 wagon are the same as the EA82 one. Here in Australia in 85 the Brumby's (only EA81 here in production from 85 onwards) used the 225mm clutch. So I can only guess that in other countries the EA81's only came with 200mm clutches and the 225mm type flywheel is lighter. But other wise I don't see a difference from a 225mm EA81 flywheel to a 225mm EA81 flywheel.