Phizinza

Don't mean to be rude, but compared to what??? Have you got the 200mm clutch or the 225mm one? The 225mm one has a slightly lighter flywheel, but still much heavier then something you would find on an italian car.. If I was doing something other then just adding a weber I would probably either go for GD's SPFI EA81 kit or build something myself with MS. If you want to stick with carbs have a look at making (maybe modifying) custom intake manifolds, one for each head so the carbs are directly ontop. This gets rid of two 90degree bends the air has to take. I had an idea about cutting the old manifold up and welding a new alloy pipe to it then making a alloy block to fit a weber or something to go ontop of that pipe, but it would be a lot of work (sorry for the poor explination, I gotta go now so...)

I have heard it is a bad idea to coast in neutral in a auto. As for the other stuff. I may be able to help, but I am not sure so I'll keep my mouth shut until someone who knows there stuff comes along.

I understand what you are on about. I was very untrusting in these until I got at least 1ft of air under the front wheels while offroading (BTW, I packed the old parts just in case I broke anything) I checked the welds and there are no stress marks or cracks at all.. It looks tougher then the originals. But I'll leave it up to you on what you want to think. You could, if you cut the whole strut tower and and re made it. The thing is I really didn't care about the camber. It's the fact that the radius angle is so **** on EA81's that you would need to move the top of the strut 55-60mm backwards to get the same results as I did. But then you also wouldn't get the better entry angle I have and the room for another 2 to 3 inches on your tire size. If you just want to correct the camber on a non body lifted EA81, yes, you just need to slot the holes for the two strut bolts and move the strut into the car. But whats the point of doing that cos as soon as you turn you get massive positive camber on the wrong wheel to have it on.. As it is right now I have about 9mm of room to move my strut tops inwards and that is with my rear EA82 spring conversion. Not enough unless I change the strut tops.. Which I did have plans for, but this seemed to fix all the problems these old cars have with front susspension..

I have sitting in the shed: PT4WD Single Range push button EA82 5 speed, PT4WD 1.59 low-Dual Range EA82 5 speed, FT4WD 1.59 low-Dual Range EA82 5 speed with the center diff locker off a turbo box (don't ask me how it was done, I bought it that way,) PT4WD 1.49 low-Dual Range EA81 4 speed, *AWD 1.19 low-Dual Range EJ22 5 speed (in parts at the moment, I think I have some pictures of it before I ripped it apart).. I also have a Single Range EA81 4 speed in a wreck that I can get pictures of.. I am going to pull the 1.59low EA82 PT4WD and the 1.59low EA82 FT4WD in the next couple of days. So if you want pictures of the in side of any of these two or the Liberty dual range just ask. Any pictures of the outside of the others is no issue at all. Tell me what you want! I'm going to be putting a big collection of photos from inside and out of these gearboxes while I'm in the process of building up my Brat's new box... *EJ22 Dual Range you ask? Yes, us aussies did get a EJ gearbox with low range...

Most likely a Nissan Navara (720) ute t-case. They use the same flange on the gearbox I hear so it is easy to bolt it in. There is one at the local u-pull it, but the shaft from the gearbox to transfer case is gone So I'll wait till another pops up. Still looking for the brumby to do it to though...

Dunno if anyone has said it yet... But I use fish oil. Smells funny, but it's suppose to be some of the best stuff against rust...

Got any idea what model subies came with the R180's? I thought STi's ran R180's, but now you say R200's, so I'm wondering what came with the R180's...

Can you smell fresh fuel around your car? They normally leak new the fuel pump which is close to the tank. Have you got a 5 - 10 litre (or what ever gallon) jerrycan so you can test your tank from full on how many miles it can go? Sounds like the gauge is screwed to me.

You should be able to get some WD40 (or what ever) into the cable.. As for the hill holder.. Why can't people just use their hand on the handbrake on hills?

Thanks. Although most of the work (welding) was done by my brother.. It's amazing how fast I can take corners now. I'll have to test the car on a perticular strech of road so I can compare speed vs before the mod. I'll update on that. And soon I will be AWDing it! Woohoo! Just thought I'd add a taste of what I done. Here are two pics.

I thought it might make the steering heavier (I was trying to come up with why subaru made it so "stupidly") but it didn't make much of a difference at all. I still run no power steering and it's quite alright. As for how tough it is... Day after I done it I went on a trip to a town that is has a great dune trail which is about a 400km drive there and then 400km back. Plus about 100km off beach and dune offroading. I got the front wheels in the air a few times and the I reckon all four up on one perticular dune hill. Got some video so I guess thats what I will be doing next (editing.) No stress cracks in the welds that I can see. And it looks seems good. I had to bash a few more spots to stop rubbing, the body right in front of the hub was getting rubbed by the tire at full lock and cut the front of the fenders. Other then all that... Not quite sure what else. Any questions, please ask

Well, I've been wanting to modifiy my front suspension for quite a while now. See, the first problem I wanted to fix was the positive camber. This really got on my nerve when I went out and spent $700 on tyres just to have 2mm burnt off the right hand sides outter edge after trying to get a gap in the traffic.. Then I found out that the negative radius which is caused by the shock absorber angle was making the positive camber about 15degrees at full lock I really started looking into options... This angle is also the reason the old subies break beads while doing donuts in the sand... So... I finally got my head around it and with the help of my brother (welding) and Matt's idea on AUSubaru, not that I followed exactly what he done, but it gave me the idea of using the later arms. Anyway, heres the link to my article on my site.. Too much for me to copy and paste here. http://offroadingsubarus.com/control_arm_mod.html Also let me know how you like the new top left pictures Make sure you read all the "NOTES:" at the bottom, as it will probably asnwer a few of your questions. I plan to add camber adjusters to my control arms to maybe get a little bit better camber, as this mod ended up with still positive..

Only way I know of without pulling one part is to look at the sticker on the back that says "LSD" followed by "3.700." viscous lsd, Like all EJ center LSD's.. Kinda weak offroad unless on sand as they need speed to work properly. They work on the principle of oil bring pushed between two bits on metal to create friction. Well that's how I understand it anyhow. When we say LSD on this board we normally mean the clutch pack type. These are better offroad because they start with more friction. It's all debatable though.. I've heard more better things about the CLSD's, but who knows unless you have driven on both (and I haven't.)

Yeah... Well... I'm not that creative, I got the idea from that same picture.. But if you read and look closely, mine would be for a much different purpose and has a bit more stuff to do on it then that had. I was to move the drive train, cut both front and rear and use a T-case...

I'll let you in on a little secret... Australia didn't get EA81 hatchs there is 3 that I know of in the country and they go for about three times more then a brat. Oh, one of them got crushed by accident, so make that two left...

Don't know weather to put this in offroad or here, oh well here it is. Is there anything avalible for our silly EA81/EA82 design front hubs for longer shock absorbers? I was talking to a guy who owns a business that modifies subarus and he said he could do it for me (for big bucks) He said something about cutting the stock shocker up and putting in a insert style shock but wouldn't let on to me what the insert shock was (part number or vehical.) Anyway, has anyone done this before? Is there another way around this? I am after about 2 to 3 inches longer (as I have a 2" lift kit and the suspension is jacked up.)

I'm not real smart on computer controlled engines but I don't think a O2 sensor could help a carb in any way.. Or could it?

That could be quite a sight... maybe a future photochop for me to do.. haha

The other option instead of point to the sheard button is to just not post... With some modification to the gear on the EJ starter it looks like it would fit fine as well.. But I'd stick with just using a EA starter.

Too hard to fit the EA to the EJ trans (you have to illiminate half an inch in the mounting somehow and you need a adapter plate so thats more like 1 inch.) Fitting the back of a Leg gearbox (the housing for the center diff) and the front diff crown wheel and pinion shaft into a EA82 5sp will give the EA82 5sp the same mounting as the Leg box plus AWD. The engine should bolt right in and right upto the EA82 gearbox bellhousing. Then you just have to run the right wires from the ignition to the carbed EA82. Or install the SPFI wiring loom.. Although if you ask me, putting a slow motor in a heavier car isn't a great idea. It will use more fuel, be slower, and a fair bit of work (probably more then putting a EJ in a EA.) So to me, it's a waist of time.

Good to have you on board tim! Hope your subie behaves for you in the new year. Happy holidays mate!

This is great info WJM. Thanks for sharing. I want to go pull the timming covers off my dad's wagon now... Interesting to hear about your RX and how it was off. Faith restored in the old gen motors again? Cheers again mate.

Can I swap the syncros from a S/R push button EA82 5sp gearbox with the D/R 5sp's? It's just that I have a VERY good S/R box, and my dad's wagon's D/R box is getting very crunchy..

... All I can say is ... I'd like to see you ride it.

I've heard of someone who used this weird product (sorry, can't remember what it was) that was kinda like a oily paint or something. You paint it on the underneth of your car and all dirt, sand, mud just washes off really easily. Then you paint it on again next time you expect to hit the dirt. Great for 4x4ing on the beach, as you can wash lots more of that salty sand off.. Just a thought. If you can live with noise, stipe the carpet, rear seats, door trim, and most of the dash out. This will really drop the weight..