Phizinza

If you use a AWD EJ gearbox you are going to have to weld the center diff. If you just use the 5sp D/R and a non turbo EJ it should be fine. I've heard the EA 5sp's can't take turbo EJ's, but after looking in my D/R EJ (yes, in Aus we got D/R EJ gearboxes) I found pretty much everything in it is interchangable. So if the S/R EJ boxes are the same as my D/R it should be able to take a early WRX engine I would think. Of cause, fitting a early model WRX gearbox isn't to hard, just have to play around with DOJ cups and CV's and make a new gearbox crossmember. Plus some linkage stuff. Might be cheaper that way if you don't want to make or buy the adapter plate, flywheel and maybe custom clutch. I still think the hardest thing with putting a EJ (even with the gearbox) in a EA is the wiring. Good luck, and give us updates when things start to come together. EDIT: Sorry, my bad, no need if only RWD...

Finally. Someone who is on the same road as I am. Only putting in much better words, thank you. EDIT: Just read through most of this thread.. Good for a laugh! haha

But my question is: is the fuel lines the same size (EA82 EFI vs Carb) ? Or is the EFI on have bigger lines?

I haven't read all the posts, but heres my answer... The engine is crap... Sorry that it isn't very helpful. But really for making decent power, it's rubbish. It's great for just going and going. But that's not how you make a powerful engine. The EJ's have much better port design, and water manifold. And it's obvious as they make huge power with a turbo without blowing headgaskets. But if you want to stick with the EA, your stuffed for power. Oh, unless you have $10,000 to spare... But, if your like me and want to make a classic EA81 dualy make some good power just for the heck of it then I would suggest this.. Twin throttle body (one for each head) fuel injected. Custom manifolds with a better water passage and new thermostat housing. Port and polished dual carb heads. Custom/worked dual carb cam. straight through 1.75" y pipe into 2.5" exhuast. Custom forged pistons for a compression ratio around 12 to 1 or higher. Running on LNG (130octane.)

Looks like a freakin missle!!!!! I love it. I'm not normally into really low jap cars, but I like this one. Has she still got the ER27 under there? Hows it go? We never got the 2.7 here in Aus. I would kill for a XT6

It will go in the back with the feul cell/LPG tank. Use the 85+ control arms, plus custom radius rods and you will get the hub 2-3" forwards. Also the radius is much better so when you have a wheel at full lock it doesn't have positive camber. You don't need to touch the top. I would use custom extended struts instead of using strut extension blocks. Doing what I said just above would make mounting the diff further forwards even better. and Would fix the tire on fender wall issue. This wasn't ment to be a simple mod Thinking on color... Obviously I wouldn't do this to my almost rust free red one. So I will be looking for a very cheap one. Which isn't going to have good paint. So, what colors do people think would look good? Crazy stripes? One color? Pearl color? Whats your thoughts. Check on my site for my "other photochops" and look at my previous ideas for paint jobs.

They look like 17"s to me, but I wouldn't know... More to the point, has that car got the 4x100 conversion?

You haven't seen my mates wagon. Only he has 2 on the high roof and 1 taller one on the lower part... I wonder if I have a picture of his car... It's the white one in my Dune Run video. This is really going offtopic now. I hope flyjum has got what he wanted.

Been much talk about it on here lately. You should be able to find some info with a search like "SPFI EA81" I would think.? Diffinatly read GD's write up, it's very informative.

So were you just worried about the stud pattern? Because they are 15"(?) big so they would easly clear the brakes, and the offset doesn't matter much because you can't get much more then a stock subie (54mm or 58mm?) I have to say, would be nice if we got those wheels here in Australia...

You mean the body part, not in the wheel well right? So not enough wheel offset plus not enough body lift is the problem there. What wheels are you using? Pugs have similar offset to stock subie wheels so I wouldn't think you'd have that problem with those, but they are fugly...

Where are they rubbing? When I fitted my 27" tires with the 2" lift they rubbed on the bolts holding the mud flap on. I just replaced the bolts with rounded head screws and it doesn't rub much at all anymore. yes I am!

What the...?? Umm, to useless ugly parts welded together. yay! I vote the yellow xt for best pic so far!

true. My Dunlop 185/60R14"s only measured 175 wide tread. And the Firestone 185/60R14 measured 185 wide on the tread. Anyone have the exact OD of the tire this guy wants to put on? I know BGF and some other tire manufactures put a size like 27x8.5R14 and then also give there exact OD in mm.

Well nothings 100% clear or accurate, because (just like bgd said) each car is slightly different. I know for a fact a 88 wagon with a 2" lift can run 26" tires without any other mods (running standard height on the shockers). But I have not tried tires on a stock subie wagon. Like I said before, go out and measure to see what will fit. Just turn the wheel till it's the closest to the fender and inner guard as possible and check to see how much gap there is. 175/70R13's are aroundabout 22.6" big. Each inch on top of that is 1/2" closer to your gaurd. Of cause you said you where only worried about cutting the rear, so it's even easier to measure the maximum size you will need. What I would do is measure it on a flat, then drive a rear wheel up something leaving your other 3 on the ground and measure the gap again. If you want, come back with your resualts and tell the world how big you could fit. But remember, different rim offset will give less/more area, keep that in mind.

The touring roof is really popular here in Australia. In fact my dad has a 85 touring wagon, I got a mate with a 88 touring wagon. But our wreck 87 is just normal. That picture doesn't show the touring roof very well. I'll see if I can find you a better picture. check this out http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/1989_Subaru_GL.html

hard? Pifft! I know, bit of a quick job, but ehh.. BTW, I didn't like the look of the car before the photochop, and I still don't. But you asked...

Thank you for posting these. Don't know when I'll look at them, but oh well still a good resource to have Cheers

bgd, I think the reason there are so many different height setups on the older subies is because of replacement parts, aftermarket parts, and overall wear and tear. I only make the assumption that you have good suspension under your car. As I think it is a bad idea to have claped out suspension and you should replace it before buying new tires. You may be suprised at how good new suspension can help offroad as well as onroad. If you started with a 2WD subie, and you have done the 4WD conversion, you should definitely get the 4WD suspension as well I hear. It also makes a huge difference if you have pug rims or other 6 lug rims. Most 6lug rims have less offset and are wider then the pug rims so that makes a big difference as to where the wheel ends up while turning. The less offset there is, the more likely the tire is goin to hit the wheel arch. The way I figured out what tires to fit on my 2" lifted Brat was by using a tape measure and just looking at what would fit or not. I assume that is the first thing anybody does before asking for others advise..

They can fit with lots of cutting. Someone here fitted 28s to a EA81 style car (has even less room for tires.) Maximum without lifting or cutting I would think about 25.5" but I have not tried this. I don't want to be a prick, but wasn't this all said in both stickys in the Offroad Forum?

Umm, is the first post missing a bounch of writing, or is it really just that boring? What are you trying to say? Do you have these? Do you want to know if they will fit? Do you what? Or are you just letting everyone know what a pug wheel looks like?

Which is what I was thinking.. I figure I should be able to fit the front diff under the EJ if it had a dry sump. And I would be doing a lot of cutting to the car so I may as well just cut for room instead of lifting. You may be asking "why only a 6", so much easier to go with more." The reason why is I want it low as possible with still running 30" tires is lower center of gravity, plus I know it can be done. Nothing wrong with a little modification to mounts, sumps, suspension, crossmembers if it gets what I want (which is a different kind of subie.) I'm looking for a rusty old Brat now... But it might take some time, hard to find cheap brats where I live.

http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads.html See the video "Dune Run" on that page. With my street tires (215/60R15's) I got bogged enough that I needed 1 person to push me out in soft sand (this is even with a welded rear diff.) With my Mud Terrains I only got bogged when I reversed down a dune backwards which I really shouldn't of done, so on normal beach driving I wouldn't of got stuck, even in the really soft sand (this is without a welded diff, even better with.) So tread is a very important thing. Although the street tires were hella fun to drift on the on the flat sand next to the river outlet. And the welded rear diff gave it that bit extra oversteer

That was my thought.. But then my brother said up the compression and run it on gas with a tank in the bed.

I know what you mean. But I've been doing a lot of looking at it and my brother and I figured you could cut away the gearbox and remove the front diff. Then weld new alloy plate on to seal it all up. OR you could dry sump the EJ, move the whole engine and gearbox 6 or so inches back and put the diff under the engine... Both of these would require a fair bit of modification, but both are entirely possible in my brothers workshop. I love welding alloy Only problem I just thought of a couple of minutes ago was using a 6" lift with transfer case means there isn't as much room above the engine for the radiator that I thought there was. But I'm sure I could make it fit. Even if I have to use the radiator in the tray (wouldn't matter much because there isn't much tray left.. I wonder how long I could drive it on road before the cops pull me over... ahah