Phizinza

Did you make it so the front wheels sit that much further forwards, or is something not bolted on in those pics? Looks fun

Amazing that I have never thought of that. Great idea, I may use it one day soon!

They pull this everytime blinker or flasher is brought up

I don't judge right and wrong. Because I don't believe there is such thing as right or wrong. I believe the world is grayscale. If someone comes to me and says "blah blah, I heard it from such'n'such" I will nicely say why I think that is bs and what I think is more correct. And no, I don't believe in god or spirits or any of that.

People are stupid :-\ I think the unibody cracking might be due to watching too much napoleon dynamite "Ever take it off any sweet jumps?"... "Yes!" ahahaha

It's a freak'in engine. It goes bang, it puts out power and it lasts a long time. Be happy with that... Geesh

If you want small I'd go 3" all round. 2's a little small, bit harder to fit those 27" tires on. I'm thinking about going to a 3", but I'm not sure if I want to build another lift for my car that doesn't involve a t-case swap.

But if its expanding and contracting it is changing shape which could (only in theory) seprate a bad weld right? Either way I think what needs to be done here is take action, try whats been said and come back with the resualts.

I don't mean to be picky here. I really do think this thread has gone to far by about 41 posts. I'm no scientist but even I can relise that metal can and does change shape a little with a few degrees difference. I live where it doesn't snow, but when the hot sun hits a sheet of steel screwed to something you can hear it changing shape. Of cause I don't believe there is anyway it could be enough to "crack" a unibody chassis... That's just a little over the top. I would recommend to everyone here who doesn't like who ever else to just ignore them. I am sure if something is that far out of wack that there won't be many people who will believe it. And if they do, maybe they deserve to believe stupid stuff like that. And if you have a problem with the moderators, I suggest you take your talk somewhere else. This is not a 100% public forum, it is owned and run by people who have been picked. If you don't like it, bugga off (thats what an aussie would say anyhow.) As for the actual subject, I would have no idea... I just live with it. But then again I don't really care how my car sounds or feels, just as long as it goes fast around corners.

Maybe japan. But I haven't seen any SPFI imports. MPFI was rare, also we got MPFI turbo. We didn't get FT4WD though. We call the 85-94 wagons and sedans "L-Series". And yes, the Legacy was called a Liberty here and they also had a D/R option. I have one of these D/R Lib boxes, but it has a even worse low range then the turbo "L" boxes (EA82t.)

No SPFI in Australia... import?

Cool, thanks bluesteel. I'll also look into the fully custom setup GD. I'm thinking 1" thick tube steel, ahhh I'll have to have a look at it all, too tired now.

I was talking to a guy in a local club meet about suspension and tire rubbing. He said there was a car (he said the name, but I have forgotten) that has ones that are longer and move the front wheels 2" further forwards. Just wondering if anyone knows about this and what car they are off of. I kinda remember something about ford, but am unsure. Any idea? Is caster rod the thing I am talking about? The part that bolts the the body and to the hub that goes on a angle towards the back of the car.

Your from Australia right? Which means your '90 Brumby has a EA81. You should be able to put any carb you want on it without much issue as long as you keep the manifold with the EGR stuff :-\ Yours should have a cat in the exhuast so you can't do anything much there apart from make the pipe behind the cat 2 to 2.5" straight through. If yours is stock at the moment you'll see maybe 5-10hp increase with a weber and exhuast, but the weber will give a much better feel and torque curve I think. Other option here is the dual carbs, same as weber for low end but gives you much better high end. Costs around $350 though. I've also found fully rebuilt motors can give more power, but you'll want to test your Brumby against another EA81 car with a good motor to see if yours is laking power or if it is normal (which is just gutless.) Other then that you may as well put in a new motor. Hardest thing there is wiring. If that didn't make sense, it's because its hot and I've had a few beers.

And another, thats what I use I think (lol, I think the rapper said fel-pro.) But I don't run a turbo especially at increased boost. From what I gather, EA82t's just arn't any good for mods. People are doing it because they want to, which is cool. But don't mod because you want more power, get a EJ. Sorry, biut off topic, I've had too much to drink this arvo.

You mean two good head gaskets right? Just making sure you know that if you have two different thicknesses on your head gaskets you would have different compression on each bank which could lead to some interesting running. I haven't heard of any proven ones for turbo EA's yet. But there was talk about someone getting 500 laser cut copper ones made up, should be easy to find in this forum.

5 reverse, 1 forward!!! ahahaha The alfa 1.7L flat 4's could get upto 200hp on standard head gaskets IIRC. But it would be a bit of work making one of those fit, I've already looked into it. Really the only reason to put anything non-subaru in a subaru is for diesel. But I'd only go to this much work if I was also goin to put a t-case in at the same time. Best diesel to put in I reckon is a 1.9L TDi VW Golf engine.

Good thing to do is start a new thread or do a search. The only way so far that we know of for Subaru's is weld the spider gears to the diff housing (no, not the bit you see when you look under the car, the bit that bolts the the crown wheel) I have pictures in a post somewhere on here, wait a mo, here you go http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65238

:slobber::slobber:XT6:slobber::slobber: I wonder how much it would cost to import one, didn't get 'em here. Need a no fear additude to offroading a old Subie huh?

I have new hosting with 100gig.. If I can figure out how to let you upload maybe I could host them for you... Just have to have a play around with these FTP client things..

Haven't read the whole thread, but I'm sorta gonna agree with Sako here. Subaru would do a lot better with a diesel engine. I have driven a yota with a 3L turbo diesel and there is no other engine I would like to have in a 1700kg car, well maybe a Lambo 5.7L v12 would be nice, but you know what I mean. It almost has to much torque. It pulls up anything in high range. It's amazing. And it drives awesome onroad because of the diesel. You can almost drive it like a normal car. Take it to 3500RPM, it's just awsome. I'm ok with gearing on my roo with the 27" tires. Anything more and I can see that even a diesel wouldn't help a lot. If you don't want to keep 4WD/AWD, it's easy to put a different engine in I reckon. Move the trans backwards, and plenty of room for a new engine. But really, why buy a subaru if you want to do that. It's not like they have good suspension or anytihng. What would be a interesting swap would be a boxer motor from something else...

My mate had rust like that only worse, got it fixed by someone he knew and it looks almost like new now. They just cut it out and re-made it with sheet metal.

Sure looks like the kumho M/T's on there.

That's quite commen. It seems the car companies use smaller head bolts. And you'll find a 12x1.25 on the car may be 17mm hex head, but the new bolt is a 18mm hex head. Just gotta get used to using more sockets. Just as long as you keep those 13mm bolts and nuts off the car I will be happy.

Is that a ea71 GL? Your so lucky! I want one. Will be cool having more H6 mods done here. The wiring can be hard to figure out. Basiclly it should be similar to a EJ harness. Which you need the main relay (the one that the igntion switch switches) the fuel relay all the wires form these relays to the ECU. All the wires from engine to ECU (might not need all of them, but easier to just take them all) There might be a few other things, there may not. The ECU will need a constant power, a igntion power, and a earth. All the sensors and engine things should be powered through the ECU. Don't trust what I say though, I haven't even tested my EJ loom yet, haha! That will come soon! Keep us updated