Phizinza

Pretty much thats only places you can buy from. If there are more, I don't know about them. Can't really say anymore. It's a pretty simple choice..

It's just that I haven't heard much about the S/R ones much. So I assumed they were rare. But I guess because they weren't as good means not as many people talk abou them as much... Can any one tell me if the single range pinion shaft in a FT4WD S/R box is interchangable with the pinion shaft from the FT4WD D/R gearbox? They are the type that slide through the middle of the output gear shaft right?

Ok, thank you.

Sorry to bring this to the top again, just wanted to ask another question... I have a lead on a 5sp FT4WD box that is single range, with diff lock. It's a import box. So I am assuming is MUST of come out of a XT6? Is this the only car this gearbox came in? And what ratio is this box? 3.7 or 3.9, or could it be either? Thanks again.

Do you think the MAP sensor died because it got water in it? Or because water was around it, in it's plug, etc? And what is/does a AIT sensor do?

Pretty much what I was going to say. Around here there are so many subies in the wreckers with really nice bodies and minimal rust. People just scrap them because the engine or trans is toast.

I was just wondering, have any of you guys with EJ's had problems with the wires, plugs, sensors etc getting wet and the engine not working to well afterwards? My EA81 is always giving me trouble with the disty, just wondering if I will have to do something to help my EJ when it's in..?

Mud and snow... My wet dream.. Pun intended...

They are rubber I am guessing. They look just like the others I've seen here in Australia (also look for the "Wonder Brumby" on this forum.) You buy the stuff in a strip and cut it to fit. Costs a fair bit at the 4x4 shops, but I reckon it might be cheaper at a rubber store. I'm lucky, both my sets of 6 stud wheels have a slightly better offset then the desert rats and the cops don't give me any trouble.

Is that positive camber I see on the front wheels? Can't you adjust that on later model subies? Or is it at the limit of adjustment? Looks great!

May I ask what is wrong with the EJ block?

4G63 to EA/EJ gearbox could need a completely different bellhousing welded/bolted to the engine or gearbox. Or if your lucky you could maybe do it with totally custom flywheel and a really interesting adapter plate? I don't think anyone here has looked at the swap before, so you would need the engine plus gearbox and figure out what is needed. Might even need a new input shaft made up for the gearbox.. Didn't the EVO's have a East West setup? Might make it that little bit harder.. But, it could be done. I've heard plenty of people getting the EJ22 engines in the US for under $800 and that even includes the loom and ECu most of the time.

True, I always forget that.. I'm just lucky I guess. Now I gotta figure out how to use it properly, that's what grandpa's for ahah. Next on the shopping list is a milling machine, that will only cost around $2k How far off topic do you think the last 5 pages have been from the original post? haha!

So you think even cutting them on the lathe wouldn't work that well? hmm...

IF ya gonna put a non-subaru engine in a subaru, you may as well make it a overly powerful one shouldn't you? Something like a big block V8? Or a twin turbo V6?

Couldn't you just get some of the over sized imperial studs/bolts, chuck them through a layth, cut the metric thread on them and woptido!? How long are the studs? I might see if I can get a price on them here in Australia...

Looks like a nice clean job. And at least with those if you rub a tree you won't break them! I still like the idea of fiberglassing for wider fenders. But that's me, I always go for the harder stuff...

So you want it as light as possible? Hmm. Easiest and best thing to do would be to use the 5sp D/R trans with a EJ22. The 2.2L is only about 20kg more I think (someone want to correct me?) Just remember, you don't have to use a Subaru trans in it, or even motor for that matter.. Personally (because the engine is avalible to me here) I would go for a Toyota TDi motor and trans for a buggy. But that does give quite a bit more weight. Hell, it's a buggy, what do you want in it? Pretty much everything can be made to fit. Start with what you want to do with it, then work from there. Sounds like a fun project. Once I get my Brat going with the new motor and everything I might just start on a buggy myself. We'll see.

Lol, just look at it. It doesn't look real.. I love the look of the tread in the snow though.. I've only been to the "real" snow twice that I remember of. And last time was over 11 years ago.. I think next winter I'm going on a road trip.

The lift kit is pretty easy to make (I've built one for both the later models and the earliy models/pickups) It sounds like you have the knowledge you need for the job. When I get the time I will send you some pictures of the blocks and bolts and stuff that I used. Getting the angle on the front strut lifts right is the hardest part, but I think I have a plan on paper, might scan it and send it too. PM me your email address if you want the pics.

That first pic almost looks photochopped, something to do with the flash I think. I wish I had snow near where I live. Closest stuff there is is about 2000km away

Maybe lost in the .net .org fiasco (spelling?)

The big thing with this motor I believe is flow.. Old EA81s had bad flow. Even my dual carb isn't that great looking. These heads from SUB4/RAM are about as good as I would expect those valves need. Even EA82t heads still share their same exhaust ports. Put electroinc ignition and MPFI on a EA82 with 4 port heads and you'd get the same number I believe. I can't see how with the same flow heads, same displacement, same cam lobes, same compression ratio, and same spinning weight (just about) you would get more power.. I reckon the pushrods would weigh less then the cam pullies and timming belts put together. GD, this isn't a biggest competition, put it away.. His young, I was the same. I knew it all, and everything. Just let him believe what he wants, he knows whats right for himself. Oh, and when I was younger (even just 2 years ago) saying all the things you said would just get me more nervy and really it's like your just asking for more "argument". Although, I would like someone to explain to me how t-belts could be anywhere as near reliable as pushrods, and have proof to back it up. I wouldn't think a aeroplane engine manufacturer would go to all that trouble making a great EA81 if the EA82 plate form is better... Would they? As all things need, Proof! EDIT: How would have thought this picture could of been so dangerous 'ay Jibs...?

I have just changed the piston rings in a 350cc dirt bike. It was drinking oil like crazy (about 300ml's in 10mins.) And wasn't running to good either. The thing that confused me was it had VERY good compression (sorry, no numbers) but it was almost as hard to kick over as a 250cc 2stroke (14:1 comp.) After I changed it's rings the smoke and oil consumption went away. I backup the oil ring presumption. But I would have no idea how to fix it without changing them (again) which I know would p*** me right off. Although, I would of thought a litre an hour would be very visible in the exhuast smoke..

At the moment I use street wheels and offroad wheels (set of 15" Superlites, and set of Nissan steelies with Kumho MT's) so dual use isn't so important to me. I can change all four wheels in under half an hour. And yes, I wouldn't drive these on road at anywhere near 60mph, The kumho's are slippery enough...