Rallyru

I'll just have to live with oem axles or have some custom made

Just as a quick little update. Those axles are garbage. My first set lasted less then a day. This set lasted less then a week. I'm going to stick with the oem style axle. Carnage pics to come soon

I got new tires today!!! 30x9.5 Maxxis Bighorns on 15x7 VW wheels I also put a shifter knob on the dual stick but that's not nearly as cool as the tires

It was a fun weekend! It turned out pretty good in my opinion. Its just the right amount of positive camber to look good and give it that old school look. While I had the suspension out i took the opportunity to beat the fender well back for bigger tires. I beat it back so far that the doors don't line up anymore haha. I guess you have to pay to play.

There are a few reasons. The main one being price. Most people don't want to pay big money for custom axles and control arms on a car that's only worth a couple hundred dollars. Plus to really use the longer axles you need custom struts. Fox makes some nice shocks but they are around $500 a piece, and those are the cheap ones. Next is size. Subarus are small enough to go down small Atv trails, but make them much wider and they loose that advantage

It's all good. Just trying to help you post in location where somebody with the answer is more likely to see your question and respond faster.

A quick Google search that led me back to this site says they came in 92-98 ej22/ej25. Also this is the wrong section to be posting technical questions. This should be in "1990 to present legacy, Impreza, Outback"

Its Christmas in April! I got my custom 6 inch lift blocks and bumper brackets from Scott today and my limiting straps showed up. It looks like its going to be a fun weekend

Got my wheels from Summit Racing the other day. They are 15x7 with a 3.5 inch backspacing and should do just fine. Not a huge fan of the stripes but they where super cheap so I'm not complaining. Ill be getting tires put on them in about 2 weeks So today's project was to do a dual stick conversion. Id say it took me about 3 hours to do. I didn't have any old shift linkages laying around so I chopped the throttle pedal off of my old pedal box and used that It works pretty damn good if I do say so myself. Now I just need to get a shifter ball for it and to reattach the center console I should be getting my custom strut tower blocks and limiting straps sometime this week witch means next weekend the front gets taller

I'll help in any way I can! Shoot me a question.

So whats new... about two weeks ago the car developed a problem where it would randomly die while coming to a stop and idling. That ended up being my IAC plugged full of gunk. Went to go see if the car would do a burnout but I didn't realize I still had it in 4wd. 5000 rpm clutch drop and my mustache bar twists like a pretzel. so I took the opportunity to reinforce it. To be fair, high rpm clutch drops aren't what I built this car to do so i wasn't even mad when something I built broke. That's about it as far as new things for now. Ill be getting some custom made 6 inch strut top blocks from SJR here in about two weeks. Then 31's can go on the beginning of next month

I think its been long enough that I can safely say its been fixed. Cleaning the IACV did the trick

After cleaning the IACV, I drove home all 30 miles without issue. Fingers crossed that was it...

I cleaned the MAF last night and it died 3 times on my way to work this morning. I have a spare that I might just swap out. Currently cleaning the IACV. It was pretty dirty. Will update soon

Donor was an automatic but I put the ecu into manual mode. 185,000 mile. Other then head gaskets replaced 50,000 miles ago and water pump done at the time of the swap, All other maintenance is unknown. P0183 fuel temp sensor (disconnected), P0446 evap (disconnected), P0463 fuel level sensor (disconnected), p0480 cooling fans (disconnected). I havent tried to hold it WOT. I'll try that next time. After it stalls I can start it again and it will idle but if I give it any throttle at all it dies again.

Recently finished an ej swap into me 80 GL using an ej25d from a 1998 usdm outback. It has ran fine until about 2 weeks ago when the car stalled while coming to a stop. Since then it has happened 5 more times. Driving down the road it's fine. It only occurs when I push in the clutch and it idles down when coming to a stop. After it dies and I turn the ignition on it acts like it's in test mode and continuously turns the fuel pump on and off. Sometime it will start after and idle but if I give it any throttle at all it dies again. After I push it off to the side of the road and let it sit for 3-5minutes it will start and run just fine for the rest of the day. I had originally thought it was the fuel pump relay. Replaced it, same thing. Then I jumpered the fuel pump connection to run constantly and it still did it. All wiring harness and ecu go with the donor engine. Any insight or suggestions would be very much appreciated. It has proven hard to diagnose and hasn't thrown any abnormal codes so as you can imagine I'm very frustrated at this point. tia

What's everyone's favorite off road tire? Personal experience story's?

I thought about something similar but decided not to go through with it. A linelocker doesn't apply pressure it just hold it so every time you have one wheel in the air you would have to step on the brakes losing valuable momentum. You would be better off welding the rear diff and going to an independent parking brake system for the front so you could individual lock the left or right.

Yes they are Wide five VW wheels. SJR makes the adapters. The tires are 205/65r15 (26s). Thanks!

Finally got around to going up to Subaru John's last weekend and picked up a new headlight bezel and pedal assembly. Installed the pedals today and they completely fixed my clutch slip issue. The old assembly was so worn out it was preventing me from properly adjusting the clutch. My buddy fabbed up these mounts for his 3rd gen and gave me one. This works a whole lot better then the fender mounted setup I had before. I still need to reroute the cable in a more inconspicuous location

The alternator is directly connected to the battery so it should have power whenever the battery is hooked up. What you need to do is go to an auto parts store and get one of those cheapo battery disconnects. Put it on the negative terminal then take your multimeter and with it set on amps touch both ends of the disconnect. With the multimeter leads touching the disconnect, disconnect the battery and check how much amperage the gauge says. If its any significant amount start by pulling fuses one at a time and redoing the test to see witch one takes away the amperage. That should narrow down the circuit.

They are Surtrack/Trakmotive that I actually found on rockauto surprisingly. I have high hopes but low expectations. Last time I had some I blew them up within 100 miles but I believe that was my fault so Im giving them another try. Id be happy with anything in the 10-12 inch range. I would just like the front to be able to flex as much as the back. Care to divulge your strut recipe? Im quit intrigued.

I'd rather stay away from solid axles. They just arnt my thing. If I wanted that I would just get a Toyota like everybody else out here in St Helens. How does the size of the Rancho compare to stock struts? The heim joints would also allow me to fine tune the caster.

Part of the goal for doing this would be achieving more then 2 inches of suspension lift. I'd like to see how much I can get out of the "stock" control arms but lengthening the axle to accommodate longer control arms is possible. I guess it would help if I gave a little more info on my setup. I have a 4 inch SJR lift with the 3 inch transmission so the control arm and radio is rod at at the same level. I extended the radio is rod 1 inch, swapped to ea82 control arms, bent them back to meet the radio is rod, and extended the subframe 3/4 inch on each side.

I think the angles are around 45 at the wheel and 40 at the trans or something close to that. I don't mind crazy full custom stuff. I like the challenge. I never expected anything stock to be a direct swap. I think even with a 2 inch lift the tie rods are pretty maxed out so that will also need to be addressed. I'll also need to look at how much angle the ball joints can take because that might also be an issue.