ebbsspeed

I don't think replacing the coil will fix the issue. As mentioned previously, this is a result of a "wasted spark" ignition system, where the plugs of two cylinders are paired, and both fire at the same time, one of which is at the very end of the compression stroke (very near TDC) and the other is at the end of the exhaust stroke. The polarity of one plug is opposite that of the other, which is why the center electrode on one of them erodes, and the ground electrode of it's buddy eroded. The simple way to prolong plug life is to swap plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 every 15K miles or so. There are also certain types of plugs that are recommended for wasted spark systems. Double platinum plugs (center and ground electrodes both platinum) have virtually no gap erosion when used in wasted spark systems. Unlike conventional ignition systems, wasted spark ignition systems use half the spark to fire the opposite spark plug unconventionally from the side electrode to the center electrode. Copper core standard plugs and copper core single platinum spark plugs are not designed to withstand this reverse polarity firing and will suffer premature gap growth due to center electrode erosion. Gap growth can stress ignition system components by requiring more voltage to fire, eventually leading to misfire, loss of performance, and loss of fuel economy. This degradation can occur in as few as 20K miles after new plugs are installed. In some cases this can also cause the check engine light to come on. Very few new vehicles still use copper core spark plugs, and those that do (Chrysler 5.7 liter Hemi V8 for instance) specify a 30K mile spark plug change interval.

I figured I'd post an update on what I did, since it seems a lot of posts end up hanging in thin air, with no update as to how a problem was resolved. I ended up doing what lmdew is planning in post #6. Initially I plugged the EGR port in the intake, but when driving it any time I came to a stop or did a slow shift the engine would die, so evidently the EGR circuit does provide some air to the intake beyond what the IAC valve does when the throttle is closed. There were no codes, no check engine light, just died. It would restart immediately and idle OK. I cut the EGR tube, drilled a hole opposite the intake air temp sensor, put in a grommet and a 90 degree push-in elbow, connected the EGR tube to the elbow and all is well. I haven't noticed any drivability issues at all. One difference I did notice between the two intakes , one with EGR, one without. The ERG intake tubes were full of black sooty residue, while the non-EGR tubes were spotless. I assume that this is due to some exhaust gases being fed back into the intake tract via the EGR valve.

So what would be the issue if I just plugged the tube fitting but left the EGR valve in place? Longer warmup times and a bit less mileage?

I'm doing an engine replacement in a 2003 Baja, bought a 2003 Outback long block and replaced the head gaskets, timing belt and idlers, tensioner, water pump, valve job, etc. on it in preparation for the swap. today I discovered that the drivers side head on the Outback motor is different than the Baja. On the Baja there is a steel tube that runs from the back side of the head to the intake manifold. On the Outback head, the casting boss is there, but it has not been drilled or tapped. Can someone tell me what this tube is for and whether I can run the Baja with the port on the intake blocked off? This is a non-turbo motor, but I think this tube might have some function on the turbocharged versions of the Baja that were built in later years. Maybe some kind of extra crankcase ventilation that deals with the extra blow by under boost conditions? I now wish I would have gotten an intake with the Outback long block that I bought, but that's water under the bridge. Any help or suggestions appreciated. I really don't want to have to have another head rebuilt and remove all the timing belt infrastructure, etc to replace the head.

OK, I'll just fill it with oil and crank it until I see pressure. I did pull the heads on the motor and replaced the head gaskets, could see a good crosshatch in the cylinders and it turned over easy so hopefully it's a decent replacement. I also did the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/idlers change, so it should be good to go for quite a while. Thanks!

I will be doing an engine swap in my son's Baja this coming weekend, and have a low-mile motor out of a 2003 Outback that was totaled in a rollover. The motor hasn't run in three years, and I'm wondering if there is any way to pre-oil it to make sure the pump is primed and there is oil at the crank bearings. I am thinking I could just spin it over with the plugs out until I have pressure, or turn the motor upside down (still on the engine stand) and pour a quart or two into the oil filter mount and let it seep down into the crank. Or shouldn't I be concerned?

JUst an update on what fixed this. A few degree adjustment on the position of the TPS has resolved the issue. Not sure if there was a bad spot somewhere within the TPS, but it hasn't stalled out after starting for the past month now.

You'll need a minimum of a class II hitch, which has a tongue weight limit of 300 lbs. Looks like there are a few options out there. Here are a few choices: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=2003+otuback+class+ii+hitch&tbm=shop 260 lbs hanging off the very back of the hitch is probably gonna make the car squat a little.

WoodsWagon, thanks for that reply. Makes me feel a lot better about not spending a bunch of money. Did you re-ring that cylinder or just put it back together with the used ones?

I discovered some scuffing in one of the cylinders of my son's Baja, enough to just barely feel with a fingernail. No wear ridge on top of the cylinder at all, and can still see the crosshatch in the cylinders, except where the scuffing is. So I've decided to bite the bullet and have it bored, and would like to get recommendations for replacement pistons and rings. Some of the sets on eBay are so cheap it scares me. I can't imagine that a complete set of pistons and rings selling for $99 can be very high quality, but maybe I'm wrong, as this is my first EJ25 rebuild. Any recommendations of brand, and vendors to buy from are appreciated.

Will using the lube that comes with ARP bolts/studs cause stock head bolts to be overtightened? I know that ARP has different torque specs when their lube is used vs oiled threads. Just wondering if it would be a bad idea to use some of the ARP lube I have left over from some previous cast iron motor builds.

I was reading reviews on ARP head studs for the EJ25 motors (ARP part #260-4701), and one of them said that the studs were for the turbo only version of the motors, and one negative review stated that he used them in a non-turbo motor and they pulled the threads out of the block. Do the block threads in the turbo version have heli-coils installed or some other thread-strengthening modification that is not found on the normally aspirated engines?

The odd thing is it will start right back up and run for days. I've wiggled the wire harness and fuse block aggressively while it's running, with no shutdown. I'll pull the fuse block up and have a look. Thanks for the response!

Posted Today, 10:02 AM I checked all the fuses, not sure where the fusible links are. And where is the ignition relay located?

Are you saying the MAP sensor could be causing this issue, or just pointing out that the module labeled "boost pressure sensor" is the MAP sensor? Thanks for the reply.

I checked all the fuses, not sure where the fusible links are. And where is the ignition relay located?

I've searched the internet to find this info, and seem to find a lot of conflicting information. I'm trying to locate what is called the Ignition Relay on a 2003 Baja, as shown in the circle on the attached wiring diagram. Does this relay just control power to the ignition system, or is it actually providing power to a lot of electrical devices in the car? I've had a couple instances where, while the car is running, things will go completely dead and the car quits. No lights, gauges, etc. It just goes dark. I've checked as many fuses, relays, grounds, connections, etc that I can find with nothing obvious showing up. I'm beginning to think it may be either the ignition switch or this relay. I've wiggled the key and bumped the steering column while the car is running, with no affect, so am hoping this relay may have an intermittent issue.

2003 Baja manual transmission, 111000 miles, recently replaced timing belt, water pump, idlers, etc, and it runs great once you get it started. This has been an issue for quite some time, and is now happening quite often. When you start the engine, as soon as it catches and you release the key, RPM's drop and it stalls in a matter of a second or two. If you just slightly depress the accelerator when starting, and then let off second or two after the engine starts, it remains running and settles into a nice idle. I have cleaned the IACV, and also swapped it with a known good one from an Outback of the same year. The problem remained, and the IACV removed from the Baja and installed on the Outback is working fine. No codes displayed via OBDII. Could this be a TPS issue, or might a slight adjustment of it or the throttle body stop screw resolve it? Any suggestions appreciated. Also, why does a normally aspirated Baja have a boost pressure sensor mounted atop the throttle body? Thanks!