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lrgvanman

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Everything posted by lrgvanman

  1. Seal is rigid in there. Anyone know how to extract this without hassle and a chain of catastrophe? I've tried prying it loose, it won't budge. Trying to refrain from removing the radiator and grill but I guess that's a start. Wish me luck. I've never seen this happen before.
  2. In recent days I've been going nuts trying to find a nasty oil leak with pressure in the front of the ea81. I checked the pressure sender, the oil filter, removed and rebuilt the oil pump, again, still had a leak, in the vicinity above the oil pump but ruled out the oil seal that I'd changed about two years ago. Today, I bought a drip pan with plans to pull the front pulley assembly and view it above the pump and view the seal. What I saw was good until I realized that the seal had somehow entered the engine still riding on the crankshaft within! So luck the oil didn't evacuate enough to blow the motor!
  3. Mine apparently originally had two keys and after I had bought my 1984 GL wagon, I had to call a locksmith to redo the main all-around key and he took the factory valet key for scrap, which annoyed me, but he modified/tweaked the new all-around key, trying to accommodate the wear, which really didn't help. My book (owners manual) showed two different keys; the main all-around key and the valet key. The latest locksmith I took my business to had a computerized system that produced an excellent new key rather than the repetitious "copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy-of-a-key" which loses quality over those multiple copyings.
  4. Those don't have points. I have one and it has a Hitachi disty. Maybe it's the Ignition Control Module in the distributor getting hot and breaking down. Standard Part # LX515
  5. Phizinka, the 4WDs were usually 185/70R13, 2WDs were 175/70R13. I have a GL 4WD with 185/70R13 on the driver's door pillar.
  6. I have never seen nylocks used on tie rods, just castle nuts,that is really concerning.
  7. Usually mounted on assembly to left of brakelight switch.
  8. Has anyone done a rack and pinion change on an '84 GL wagon? Manual steering. What is the time of the process? NAPA site says the average for generic is 4-6 hours. Just looking to verify and do at home if I can get motivated. Thanks in advance my friends. Like Comment
  9. I have an erratic wiggle and, once, taking the car to Les Schwab, an experienced tire person had to beat one of my wheels straight again, those wagon wheels seem to be problematic as far as easily being made crooked. I also suspect that the front axle on that side, the right front, got tweaked from attempting to jump the snow-covered curb while aiming for the driveway after our "Snowpocalypse" a year and a half ago.
  10. Sad to say and this an embarrassing conclusion but silly and the car is now running again. High tension lead somehow disconnected. Hmmm... I want to post a picture but it is too large. Thanks all for answers contributed. Happy Motoring!
  11. I have been an auto tech for some 50 years of my 64 and never encountered such an erratic symptom. I have very basic test equipment. Multi-meter and test light and that's it. She ran great for about a week and a half, shut her off one day, and no fire again. I replaced the disty and coil and throwing my hands up now!
  12. Inquiring of the location of the ECM on a 1984 Subaru GL - 1984 Subaru Gl 4WD wagon left-hand drive. Erratic start. Does not fire but power to ICM and coil. Does not pulse. Ignition switch fine.
  13. I have had an ongoing problem since the car died. I first replaced the disty, thinking of the high mileage, and was confident that the sensor pickup had gone bad and noticed high heat along that side of the disty. The change did not allow ignition but the next day after checking for voltages and ALL terminals were hot, I reassembled and it fired up! I ran it for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery. Shut down, the next morning...no start. I checked all terminals and found they were still all hot, i.e., lit the test light. Pulled wires from the sensor and B+ at both connectors. I have changed the disty w/sensor, coil (polarity is correct), and what's next? The ECU? If so, where is it locate? Behind fusebox? I somehow do have an extremely light spark from coil but makes no sense as there seems to be a constant B+ on both terminals of the coil (polarity is correct) and no pulse, solid light from test light. A Twilight Zone episode, extended version!
  14. Coil put out weakly and failed internal resistance but installing brand new coil does nothing. Same results. Very weak pulsing spark and both terminals of the ICM stay hot. Looking for way to diagnose ICM resistance. Probably just going to replace with my new spare ICM and see if that solves it.
  15. Going through similar problems with a 1984 GL wagon. I tried to open that thread but it only comes up blank. I changed distributor while suspecting ICM. Car started and ran until I shut it off 20 minutes later. I tried to restart this morning to finalize with a timing light and idle adjustment but won't start now like before the dist change. 
  16. Just a little about myself; for about 30 years of professionally turning wrenches, I was a mechanic/glorified parts changer 'cause I wasn't a master or certified I but had lots of experience. In 2005, my last job closed its doors. 6 months later, I went to work as a parts shuttle with CarQuest for 9 years (2005-2014). Getting rusty at it and so I have memory lapses once in a while of procedures I had once well known. I still do like the fact that I can save a buck or two usually. Thanks all and have great times!
  17. Step-a-toe, I did lube first, I just forgot the resistance of new O-rings as they are actually compressed in the first usage even with the lube. I simply had to push down harder with a rag over it and with a slight rotation, back and forth, and she made contact. Thanks for asking though.
  18. UPDATE!! All is good now. I was determined and went back out about an hour ago. I re-pulled the partially installed distributor, eyeballed it, and finding no apparent flaws, reinserted to the stopping point, grabbed a rag, placed the rag over the distributor, and while pushing down with my weight, rotated the dist back and forth and to my pleasure, it contacted. I hooked wires and the vacuum line up and fired her up! All will be fine-tuned tomorrow. I had eventually remembered that the new O-rings resist as they are not shrunken like the old, much the same as the oil pump procedure and the new O-ring was catching on the ridge inside the shaft's opening.
  19. Thank you, I will check that tomorrow. Have a good one my friend.
  20. I had to replace my ea81 distributor and the old one came out with ease but the replacement binds with about 8mm left to go flush. What gives?
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