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lrgvanman

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Everything posted by lrgvanman

  1. lrgvanman
    As far as the switch goes, rockauto.com has 'em. I can't answer the rest of your questions though. Best of luck.
  2. lrgvanman
    Same thing I am looking into since a thief broke into my '84 GL wagon. I also found the Datsun/Subaru and found as well, an ebayer selling both the "long" and the "short" NOS OEM cylinders, which are difficult to purchase as they are automatically cancelled with a message "the seller cannot accept payments right now".
  3. lrgvanman
    After some research, I have found a similarity with the Datsun 510 assembly that shows almost precisely what I was looking for except for the mounting at this page; https://ratsun.net/topic/47412-how-to-dissasemble-datsun-510-ignition-switch-and-rekey/ Older Subarus and Datsun (pre Nissan) were alot the same, same manufacturer. I am learning alot from this and got to move my car today. Just waiting to find new parts to fix it right.
  4. lrgvanman
    Very helpful information as there is not much I have found covering this issue of pulling the lock cylinder, a prospect necessary for me to somehow accomplish as some POS broke into my car and while stealing the stereo and multiple other items, apparently finished off the lock cylinder because it is seized now. I need to unlock the steering and remove it from the street. The wheels are locked at about 30º towards the curb. Thank you, beamsbox , for showing me this post.
  5. lrgvanman
    Very helpful information as there is not much I have found covering this issue of pulling the lock cylinder, a prospect necessary for me to somehow accomplish as some POS broke into my car and while stealing the stereo and multiple other items, apparently finished off the lock cylinder because it is seized now. I need to unlock the steering and remove it from the street. The wheels are locked at about 30º towards the curb. Thank you, beamsbox, for showing me this post.
  6. lrgvanman
    I am searching for an exploded view of a tilt ignition lock for a 1984 GL wagon. Trying to locate retaining pin but cannot find. Another post suggested first removing the band that indicates switch position, I did. Then suggested, at 5 o'clock position for pin/screw hole, no hole or solder plug I can find.
  7. lrgvanman
    I attempted to buy; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-ignition-lock-cylinder-X6-long/302432735361?fits=Year%3A1984|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item466a655081:g:6KoAAMXQoiJRhgtN:rk:17:pf:0 and I encountered a message saying; "The seller can't accept payments right now". Looking some more tomorrow.
  8. lrgvanman
    I attempted to buy that same item and it had ended, suggested; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-ignition-lock-cylinder-X6-long/302432735361?fits=Year%3A1984|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item466a655081:g:6KoAAMXQoiJRhgtN:rk:17:pf:0 and I encountered a message saying; "The seller can't accept payments right now". Looking some more tomorrow.
  9. lrgvanman
    I am gonna try this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-ignition-lock-cylinder-X6-short/302185124450?fits=Year%3A1984|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item465ba31262:g:TjAAAOxynapRhdL1:rk:16:pf:0#vi-ilComp
  10. lrgvanman
    783121070 comes up eventually as a no tilt complete assembly which is not the one what I need because I have the tilt. I got burglarized and the thief mucked up my ignition, and so, I am searching for the complete assembly, which the dealer says can be ordered with footnote; no tilt, handwritten. Dead-end there. UPDATE: Changing the lock cylinder sounds the best option now. Anyone have a cylinder number? I found 783131010 at SubaruParts.com and I'd really like to verify that number. UPDATE: Glad I checked again, that latter number, 783131010, shows the switch, not the lock cylinder! Thanks and have a great day all!
  11. lrgvanman
    That has been driving me nuts. Bought the 2 new v split spacers from the dealer for the front and racket went away for a bit after install but back again. I really never found out the proper way these washers went and if no rain tomorrow, I shall rectify if needed. Thanks and Happy New Years all!
  12. lrgvanman
    https://www.stockwiseauto.com/melling-m223-engine-oil-pump?Year=1987&Make=Subaru&Model=DL
  13. lrgvanman
    O'REILLY'S claims to have calipers, rotors and drums for my 84. I haven't checked yet for CV joints or shafts though.
  14. lrgvanman
    I have the same problem with my 84 GL wagon and figure that maybe the conduit may be leaking which causes low output from the vents. Fan works on all speeds.
  15. lrgvanman
    I did just what GeneralDisorder did; I saw a YouTube video that suggested that same method. I went to the hardware plumbing isle with my new seal to match its size and it worked great!
  16. lrgvanman
    EA81s have gear driven valve train, internally. They are OHV. EA82s are belt driven overhead cam and mass plastic covering in front. My 1984 is an EA81 OHV. OHCs have 1 cam overhead per side. My EA81 has EA81 and I.D. # below it next to the distributor boss to the left, it that helps. I have a picture but computer/phone are not cooperating. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT#Drivetrain
  17. lrgvanman
    Fully pump about 4 times. The first pump should set the choke if it is adjusted correctly.
  18. lrgvanman
    My '84 GL wagon is 145 ft/lb, front and rear.
  19. lrgvanman
    Light bubble blowing and purging out the cap, also running a tad hotter thanks to our fake weather changes. I have had issues with different brand vehicles and this is my second Subaru. My first had A/C and didn't like that the interior was cool and the engine overheated to the point of severe damage. I was turning wrenches for about 30 years and also worked in a radiator shop. I just think that BlueDevil may help after a flush then water flushes soon after to rid of excess sealant residual. This one has no A/C, either.
  20. lrgvanman
    My EA81 hasn't been so happy this summer. I have had her about three years and suspected a head gasket among other things, such as a leaky heater core, all minute but serious enough to purge some coolant. I am planning to try some BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer. Wish me luck.
  21. lrgvanman
    Sad, seemingly poor (if any) quality control like many other products of nowadays.
  22. lrgvanman
    The rag joint I just replaced on my non-power steering system was one of two left at the Eugene Subaru dealer. Though I don't know whether power steering systems run these, they are available elsewhere under the part number "731336000 Rubber Coupling AY" and if Googled, they will show in numerous sources if it helps.
  23. lrgvanman
    With conventional differentials used in the rear that were not limited slip, slightly applying the emergency/parking brake would stimulate the use of the inactive axle. That seeming should apply with the front Subie axle. The problem being no rear wheel being active is likely a linkage problem for the rear axle activation and just what el_freddo posted. Best of luck.
  24. lrgvanman
    My '84 has no A/C and has an EA81 running only one belt. Belts that squeal end up glazing and therefore require a ridiculous tension to end the squealing. My '87 did that until I replaced the belt. Too tight is usually done with a three-foot-long bar or something of the likes. There is a belt deflection measurement but I forgot just what the requirement is and I personally have tightened the alternator belt where I could not turn the alternator with the push of my thumb on a fin and it has worked. Dual belts on your unit? Check with a reliable parts man and see if it is listed as so. I don't know what would cause them to break like that though. Subaru Scott suggested possible bad bearing and that sounds like a very good possibility. Good luck.
  25. lrgvanman
    Sapper 157 is very right about the large O-ring's duty. Sorry, I did mine in my ea81 and wondered the same about sealing but it came out fine. Don't use shellac or the next removal will likely end up with destroying the pump housing.
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