lrgvanman

The first thing I would check is your firing order...see if your wires are right...best of luck!

I found a reseal kit online which had a paper gasket and three o-rings (the o-rings are the leak source, not the paper) but I never encountered the distributor issue. There is a kinda detailed posting in our forums about how to do the oil pump. I did the one in my 1984 Subaru GL wagon. It is much easier than it looks. The hardest part is removing it from the engine as the largest o-ring offers resistance when you are trying to pull the pump off. Check out youtube for a video there. I am sorry I don't have these links. I wish you the best of luck though.

Can you find something like a 17470? Measure with a piece of sash cord and match it up on the parts store's belt measuring tool. Hope that helps. If one of our members has a car like yours, the input of what they have would be appreciated. My car is an '84 with no a/c, unfortunately.

I got two Vee Rubber 185/70-13s from Les Schwab about 4 months ago. 40,000 mi. rating. $125 incl. mount and bal. I had Hankooks before but out of stock so I opted for the Vee Rubber.

Gaing up for a bit but as far as I can tell, there is power to the motor but I haven't found a good source of wiring details so I am taking a break for now. Thanks Len Dawg.

Hi all! I have a 1984 Subaru GL Station Wagon. She has 188K Miles on her. Body is pretty good but a little rust on rear wheel wells with some denting on right front fender/door that she came with. I bought her last year and so far have replaced rear driveshaft U-joints with serviceable type, right front wheel bearings, new rear eccentric cam brake adjusters and shoes. New battery 1 year ago. Driver's rear window won't work and switch is missing, it came that way. She has good tires. Baja wheels and spare under hood is a Baja wheel with a slightly smaller tire; 175/70-13 instead of the rest which are 185/70-13. Has spare rear driveshaft. Weber 32/36 carb with K&N Air filter. I repaired oil pump leak successfully. Needs inner front CV Boot replaced. I have the kit but have not done the job. I also have front metallic pads to be installed. The blower motor does not work and I haven't got funds to replace it. My question is; How much do you think she's worth? I bought her for $1100 and with the little work that I put into her, I hope to break even. I do not want to junk her. I tried to give her TLC but since I have had such a hard time finding a job and getting hired, funds are drying up and I cannot afford insurance, therefore, looks like the ride is over.

I only wish I could find that glass fuse as all else seems good. There should be no relay because the jumper is there and this car has no A/C. I also have B+ at either end of the adapter/jumper/relay bypass or whatever it may be called.

Referring to my 1984 GL SW, I am attempting to locate that 20A glass fuse as my blower suddenly stopped working. All fuses visible in the fuse box are good and convey electricity. My unit does not have A/C, therefore, no relay. I found the jumper that Gloyale referred to, dismissing a relay and there is B+ at both ends of it. Locating the blower motor is being quite interesting as well but I haven't pulled the glove box yet so unknown if it is there.

Sorry for the late reply Jono. My solution was a find at RockAuto of two Beck/Arnley 085-0116 eccentric adjusters. Used even on two wheel drives up to 1994 from what I heard. Getting scarce but will likely outlast my car! Thanks again! Larry G.

As far as heat shields go, by all means; "try to save the one over the cat as it protects the passenger side inner axle boot.", GeneralDisorder said that and he is right! I had my passenger downpipe to cat rewelded at the cat to repair a leak and the tech removed the shields, leaving them off because of clearance difficulties made it too hard for him putting them back on. I now have a split inner passenger boot. Any one know where replacement shields may be found? I am guessing heatwrap because of the hassle with salvage yard shields.

I hope to find that online fuse in my 1984 GL Wagon that I have heard about. It is really getting harder for me to contort myself under the dash but I am hoping on this to be the culprit! Well, no sign of that fuse so hopefully no foul weather to warrant the blower's use though the fan helps when hot inside!

I don't know if the radiator is exactly the same as my '84s but the sensor switch is usually on the passenger side's tank near the bottom and just above the drain. Good luck.

I recently bought a cube from Knechts Auto Parts but I haven't tried it yet. I have used those in the past. Then there was the elongated version that had the two pokies (spanner) on one end and a hex the other end, difficult to handle while slipping off frequently. Thanks all from Larry G.

I have some oil leakage as well but not so bad, maybe the same source. As far as parts, try http://www.rockauto.com/ and see what they have to offer. I am a newbie customer with them but had a good experience so far. Best of luck, Larry G.

As aba4430 said, it is beneath the plastic cover behind the shifter that sits over the range linkage and the switch rides to the rear of that linkage just in front of the armrest/box.

Anyone know where to find one of these? It is a Disk Brake Tool for twisting while turning to compress the piston. Thanks from Larry G.

Funny upside down but I don't have the answer, sorry.

I do believe it is to be assembled without a sealant but I don't think that Ultra Grey will really hurt if used sparingly. I did mine dry and seems fine as the O-rings are what really seals.

Thanks 175eya. Another Subi owner was asking about this and I passed that info along. I received them today and they appear to be just what I need. Thanks again from Larry.

Thanks for that info, somick. I ordered two yesterday and I guess I will have to wait and see.

I am looking for two of these, can't find on eBay and am trying Rockauto next!

I have a 1984 Subaru GL Wagon with the drum brakes in the rear. I am looking for two adjuster kits but Subaru here says they are not available and that they had inquired with Japan as well. Anyone have any ideas which would be very much appreciated? Thanks.

One site that I found recommended spraying silicone spray into the tracks. A bit messy, I did and it offered a little relief but not like new.