rae houghton

Very interesting Dave T. Very. Thanks for that tip.

thanks Dave T for your reply. Yes I saw that product on the shelf, and wondered if that would be useful, but , as the person behind the counter could not see how any product could work as a vacuum leak would suck in the product, he obviously did not know how to use the product to visually inspect for a vacuum leak. Well, I have to admit ignorance, because that thought had also occurred to me. How to use any product to "SEE" where the leak is (if there is one) If you or anyone can point out how to use it for this procedure I will no doubt feel pretty dumb.....but every time I work on my car I feel rather dumb. Yes I learn each time, but never feel very confident. So , without showing any more ignorance....giving some instructions here would be very welcome. Thanks again for your interest and your reply. ( On an aside) I see that Jezek is home in the Honduras again. I wonder how many US members he may have visited while in USA. I have checked on that adapter he mention for bolting Weber to manifold. Another 80$ if purchased in Australia....and then there is the replacement filter for the Weber. Boy would I like to get this carby working properly without putting out all that cash. (I am a pensioner....and not on a very good wicket unfortunately....the Aussie gov't here for every dollar you make over 40$ per week, they reduce your pension 50cts on each dollar (make 140$ and you lose 50$ off your pension). tough to make ends meet here. So finding a cheap solution is very helpful.

Thanks for the suggestions....I noted on a previous post somewhere on this forum that somebody had suggested a Carburator SPRAY TO HELP DETECT A VACUUM LEAK. the boys at Car Bits didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Can anyone clarify this product? Click to view larger image i guess this is the item I am looking for ??? Details about K731 Conversion Kit Weber carb 32/36 DGEV / Subaru Fits OHC ENG. W/ 2BBL Hitachi Only $550 AUD (incl postage from USA) But Loyale Turbo 2.7 said the airfilter is too high and needs replacing as does the manifold adapter.

Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to buy a Weber.......Not sure where to get the cheapest. I have a spare carby that I could take apart (one butterfly flap doesn't work...nor the idle adjust needle) but coulld, as i say take apart, and look to see if i have the cajones to get it back together. yes a weber would be good. can somebody suggest the cheapest place to order on...I live in Australia.

WEll I have gone over the posts on idle problems and lots of info here. May I put in a query?. Somewhere I read on the forum that a vacuum hose may be the cause of a carburetor not idling correctly (or at all). Well my wife came thru the door saying "I have bad news" the car is stalling whenever I apply the brakes (and take foot off gas pedal) Right...so I take off the air filter top and have her gun the engine while I apply a clean rag over the open carb and stall it out, I do this a few times... hoping that some grit from the petrol tank may have lodged and will get sucked thru and everything will be fine. Worked once in the past. No luck. I adjusted the idling screw...I think I did. IT is the one that had an aluminium plug over it??? Isn't it? I drilled out that plug a month ago when I had the same problem. Tuned the car (new plugs and adjusted dizzy) changed the petrol filter today (located in front of the r rear wheel) just to make sure for the future...but for now I cannot get the carby to idle. WELL sometimes it idles roughly at a stop....but mostly stalls when I take foot off gas) Some people say take it apart and clean it .. ( I have a mechanics manual and the number of parts noted is incredible.) CAn I take it apart in sections so that not every washer and spring is there to be lost. What else can I try without taking it apart?. Using a carby kit ...is that the same as a rebuild....? (dumb question but I have to ask) ( I have an EA82 engine) Thanks Rae

today I came to the conclusion that I definitely need to replace my steering rack. Steering wheel has lots of play, when on a hoist and moving the wheels left/right I can hear the creaking of the rack. Steering column coupling is fine. Soooooo.....I have a parts car and can take out the rack from there.....but , pardon my ignorance, what am I looking for? How do I determine what the problem is in my present rack, and what to look for in my 'parts' rack...should I want to replace it for the shot one> Maybe the parts car has a shot rack tooo? Or is a new one the way to go? I live in Australia....thanks fellas.(ladies)

DEE2 is there a brake booster in all these models...I don't see one (not power assisted) Len DAwg Could be...will change filter... float sticking....why would that happen when brake applied (at very slow speed)? Dave T and ivantruckman There are two sets of wires ..one going to thermostat and second just below...I am guessing this is the solenoid you are referring to. (there are no other wires going to carby) I do have a second carby....that I could fit. ( a lot of tubes and such to do....but maybe that is the way to be sure) All other ideas also welcomed and will be processed and possibly done....before I get to work on exchanging carby. (not sure I can change it without making myself more trouble) thanks all

Thanks for the suggestion...I went out after reading it and gave a thorough check... No... no wires to be seen. thanks again

1990 Subaru sportswagon (L series or a Leone depending who you are talking to) single carby. Pulling out of shopping centre , apply brakes , engine stops immediately. ODD I thought turned the key and started up (simple, no issues (new battery)) and drove home. parked, idled, no problem. Next day, wife goes shopping same thing happens multiple times when she takes foot off pedal to apply brake. has to start car again. I look under the hood / bonnet and clean distributor cap (but it didn't need it , as I had done a job on it not that long ago) I start the car ...stops immediately take foot off pedal. 1/2 hour later I am playing around again after looking in my manual. This time starts. Over and over again...no problem. I tell my wife, and she goes out with the car...and comes back 5 minutes later...it is doing it again. I try in the driveway...and same. i try again letting pedal down slowly and it is OK and idles fine. I try again , push down hard and let foot off pedal quickly,,,,,slows to a quick idle. Try again...slows to a gentle idle. Any suggestions? there is a plug in the carby that has some rubber or something covering a screw . This is the idle adjusting screw....and taking the plug out, I was able to adjust the idling up and down....but I don't think that is the problem....or it would have cut out quickly when I slowed it down. I took it out for a spin....and no problems. But I am concerned....As my wife is leery about driving it now. Can I pick your collective thoughts, so that I might try a few things. Perhaps a can of compressed air...shot here and there. ? your ideas are welcome. thanks rae

thanks for replies RAE

Ok...worked it out. Snap-on connections are down the body (metal enclosed and connecting at tail-lihgts. Have to disconnect and pull them thru body to roof...small hole where cable comes out JUST manages to let connectors out one by one. Goes back same way. I used a bolt tied to a piece of string...shoved it to body hole and luckily it fell thru and with a little jiggling of the string...it fell all the way down to tail-light and then I connected string to wire connectors and pulled it down and thru and connected. Worked. My only problem is that the water seal on the 1994 is not quite the same profile as the 1990 and there is a bit of leakage when it rains ((I tested with buckets of water))... I anyone has a method of making the water-tight rubber moulding fit a bit snugger that might help a lot....if you could tell me....and I could try it. Thanks all Rae

Haha...yes and some other moulding which wants to keep the roof in place...but is hard to glue back into place easily. I am hoping there is an easier solution....Thanks BumbleBeast

Hey there everyone. Good to be able to use the website again. Donations needed. My old subaru Sportswagon has a tailgate that is beginning to rust and i thought it easier to just replace it with a 'new' part. But when I disconnected the rubber waterproofing between the body and the tailgate....I could not see a '''connector'''. Not wanting to make my investigation a case of make more trouble for myself....I thought to consult with the expertise out there. The Tailgate only has ONE cable leading from the body to the tailgate...see photo. Your input is appreciated.

I have looked up Subaru Loyale and Subaru L-series in "all of Canada" and there is NOT ONE listed for sale. What a surprise....I find many listed in Australia. (not called a Loyale here) typed in Subaru EA82 and still no results. Typed in 1990 Subaru...almost nothing. Lots of older Legacy's but don't look like a 4wd Sportswagon or sedan. Are they that rare over there???

Didn't expect to get so many wonderful and interesting replies. thanks folks. on top of the valuable suggestions you gave, I was thinking under what heading would be best to look for a subi in North America. Now I know. Thanks

In Australia we have the Brumby and we have the Subaru Sportswagon from the 80's and early 90's to 1994. sometimes I go to the auto parts outlet and ask for Subaru parts for my car. They ask what model it is and have to check. Always have to check, because they get called a L-Series , Loyale, as well. Some people at Supercheap Auto Parts seem to know which is which, but I get confused, as do many of them. Sometimes they ask for a number from the inside of the bonnet to verify...but this never seems to help in my case (I have a 1990 Sportswagon __ L-series) When asking for parts for their L-series, what approach do the readers here take? Does it have a different name in North America?

this instruction to put the convex side out is perplexing. My washer does not look like it has a convex side. Yes the inner side has a slight angle to the edge of the washer, which angles inwards...therefore is concave....but the other side appears flat. Am I missing something?

I read somewhere that putting full body weight (me 75kg) on a 2 ft bar should be good. (if you don't have a torque wrench). I was at a Subaru specialist mechanic...been fixing them for yonks and also has Subi wrecking yard. Got him to put in my 'switched ' inner tie rods. I asked ....don't you use a torque wrench....nah....just make 'em tight and fold the washer so it can't spin.

TOOK IT out of a spare parts car. Boot was new...don't know how old the axle was.

thanks Toonga and Thanks Dave T. the wife just got home and I immediately jacked up the car a bit and loosened the wheel nuts a shade, and struggled to tighten the axle nut any more....but finally with a 2 1/2 ft pipe cranked it another castle of the castellated nut...(about 3/4 of a cm. turn) and really I think that is too much. But I will drive around a bit and see how she sounds. Question. the hub was OK as far as I can see. What could possibly be wrong with the hub other than the splines (there was NO noise before I changed the axle (which had a split boot and had thrown out heaps of grease everwhere)) and the wheel bearings, which also made no noise before, and I injected some additional grease between the bearings .???? So how could the hub be the problem? Or have I already touched on the only possibilities.?? Thanks for the quick replies...appreciate it. It's been a hoot so far ... a real greasy hoot. Rae

Not a mechanic. But have been doing some work on tie rods, inner and outer, ball joints and axles recently. replaced on the right side. injected fresh grease into bearings. Now....when turning hard right I hear a clicking. any ideas out there? thanks Rae

added question. without a pickle fork, without a pitman puller, (or other special tool for tie rods)....can someone remind me how to get the tie rod out.? I have sprayed it with WD - 40 to work itself into the tapered stud overnite. And it seems to me that I read that a good sledgehammer hit on the tie rod knuckle will loosen the tapered shaft and it will pop out nicely. I even remember doing this one time, and it worked...but it did not work today...and after scouring old threads, it seems I have not found the simple directions how to do this. Can someone remind me of this method? thanks RAE

Can I ask a question here.? The flat washer that pushes against the cone washer....does it matter which side is facing the engine and the castellated nut? I recall reading somewhere that it had convex and concave sides....(But I didn't see that yesterday, and the washer got flipped and I didn't know which side was which when putting it back on. ) thanks Rae

OK thanks...will try those methods. rae