rae houghton

thanks Dave T....the nail idea is worth looking into. I suppose that the older model GL series didn't have all the exhaust stuff in the way like my 1990 and 1994 cars? That stuff really seems to be a pain. I can see driving out the pin.....but when it come to putting it back.....HOW TO DRIVE THE PIN UP from the underside with the wide exhaust metal in the way.??? PS Jus tlooked at the mighty Bumblebeast restoration thread....nice pictures.

TRIED AGAIN TO POST A PIC....BUT FAILED....GOING TO cv JOINT THREAD NOW TO ASK ANOTHER QUESTION.

Someone suggested somewhere to use 'cling wrap or saran wrap" to keep the grease in a broken boot. I have tried that...first putting in some new molybideum grease and then wrapping with wrap. Worked pretty good so far...but I do worry that the wrap will melt as it is close to the exhaust assembly.

QUESTION...Just looked at my car with the intention to scavenge the axle from one car and put into another with 'shot' boots....on one side. I notice that the exhaust assembly is make it a shade tricky. so I will have to hammer out the roll pin from above as there is no access below. When looking at the pin...I see they appear the same size . I rolled the car forward and the pin - hole looks the same .180 degrees further around. But above I have read that it is important not to punch the pin from the bevelled side. They both look recessed to me.... not bevelled...but perhaps I need a bit of advice here. Any is welcomed. Thanks Rae

The Subaru is back on the road, and driving well (aside from a need for a replacement of the right axle, as both boots appear in poor condition) :wub:Finn2013 I would like to give a very, very big thanks to all and sundry for your help. Especially to the Might Bumblebeast, Dave T, and Subaru Nut. You really made me feel important......by being so forthcoming with your suggestions ,, and in good time for me to keep the '""fix""" moving along. Thanks AGAIN

thanks Subaru NUt...I have read this....but previously I couldn't get the cams in the right position without using the crank pulley and belt to move the Cam Sprocket. THEN when cams were in position , I put the flywheel in position...and I just wanted to know, if do things in this order would make any difference. thanks again.

When I say grateful for all your replies...I am referring to everyone. Thanks Rae

nice work DaveT....thanks for the support. I was feeling for awhile that there was something wrong inside my piston area...and that some piece had jammed and caused the belt to snap. I don't know if I have made a slip up here....but I put the newer belt on , attaching crankcase pulley, and then ratcheted the crankcase pulley until the cam sprocket hole lined up with the timing belt cover notch..... then I took the belt off.....and moved the flywheel to the 3 line position. Now I have a feeling this is WRONG. ..because earlier reading guided me to understand the 3 lines on the flywheel had to be lined up BEFORE THE cam sprocket is put in place. Can you or any other reader confirm my mistake....because I am at the point of putting the belt on the other sprocket to get it to turn into its position (after cranking the Left sprocket 180 degrees to put the "tiny hole" in the down position. Grateful for all your replies.

so what I did was to put the crank shaft pulley back on....and put the belt on and let the crank shaft move the belt and the sprocket went to the correct position. then took off the belt....and moved the crankshaft pulley until the 3 little lines on the flywheel lined up with the "tooth edge". but now I have the right side camshaft sprocket which does NOT have the little hole pointed up...rather it is about 1/4 turn past where it should be. Is there a way to line it up so that is easy to do. Hitting the shaft of a screwdriver slotted into a hole on the cam sprocket does just NOT CUT THE MUSTARD......and I am hoping you guys have a trick to help. Thanks Rae (ps .... this car is so old....that I have decided to use the tension adjuster that has the littlest play in it....and not spend 200$ *(Yes that is the cost in Australia....minimum for a known brand) for a kit with I already have most of the parts that are useable. My wife and I drive about 10,km per year max....so the car will fall apart from rust before we need another tensioner....I expect...could be wrong often am. Thanks again for all the help fellows...just need the wife to help move the tensioner , (leveraging with a screwdriver) while I try to but the belts on. so If you have a way to move that right cam sprocket...I will be very happy.

tHE MORE I THINK ABOUT IT...THE MORE I THINK THAT THE CAM SPROCKET SHOULD MOVE A BIT (ON THE DRIVERS SIDE usa AND PASSENGER SIDE Australia) if I put a screwdriver in one of the holes and hit the shaft of the drive with a rubber mallet it moves a little bit...but not a lot. How easy should this sprocket move to get it around so that the hole is lined up at the top with the notch in the timing belt cover (the half behind the sprocket)? thanks Rae

Hello Dave - T and bumble beast.... I have gone to a mechanic for his ideas about the tension adjusters and he stated that one had a little play in it.....I am reckoning that the previous owner ( a young woman of 22yrs) JUST had the belts put in....but who knows. Sticker says a kit at such and such a date and km....but who really knows.. But if tensioners were put in....then maybe play can occur after 20,000km in a cheap adjuster? Just a millimeter of play. what do you guys think....???? thanks so I must decide now on the left hand tension adjuster as the units from fix em up car....has a bit of clicking which can't be good.... one person has suggested a new bearing could be put in....and that might be the answer. then the idler....... The one with a lot of spin in the car to be fixed spins too much at 5-6 seconds...whilst the other hardly spins at all, but is not gritty. Guess I should use this one. Belts look in tip top shape...and writing still visible on belt (DAYCO) won't worry about seals as the interior of compartment is dry. (works...so don't fix it.) THANKS RAE

THANKS FOR your suggestions Bumblebeast...but no option as you describe comes up. would like to cut and paste snap photo of what I see on my computer...but that does not come up either. But thanks very very much for your ideas. I try them all. As for the questions in the above post....that is also interesting.

OK I am getting down to the nitty gritty, The cam sprocket LEFT (looking out windshield of the driver's side USA or passenger side Australia (where I am)) on the fixing car moves a bit by hand but not at all on the parts car (yet the parts car engine always started easily ) On the RIGHT side of the parts car the cam sprocket moved fairly easily. Now not being a mechanic, and enjoying this exercise in learning, ....can somebody please excuse my ignorance and tell me just what they think? Is there a reason that a cam sprocket doesn't want to move if the car is in neutral. Moves on one side but not the other.? thanks Rae

thanks Dave T...very kind of you..... thanks bumble beast....that is possibly the problem...they don't end in JPG. they read thus https://imageshack.com/ihlYWZdcjj I put them in the window that comes up when I click on image icon above....the window accepts the URL but will not do anything when OK is clicked and will not disappear when 'x' in right hand corner is clicked...have to refresh to get page again...(without window).

thanks for all the ideas....and thoughts ....everyone. I signed up for Imageshack but this website would not allow the 'extension' to be uploaded to the website. So I am getting fed up with this running around trying to get pics on here. I tried Flikr and that was a problem I tried photobucket and there was a problem there too. I really thought Imageshack had the good as I could get the picture on the post in my computer screen...but not send to server. Anyway....the belts seem ok The tensioners look newer. The idler ....which one is the idler. there is a pulley directly below the crank pulley.....what is that for? the the tension adjusters spin but only for about 1 to 1 1/2 second....I guess that is correct...as they look so new from the 'Parts car' But one of the tensioners from the car I am fixing spun like crazy...2 seconds or more. And the idler (which looks like a sprocket...is that right?) in the 'parts car' it looked very new but didn't spin much at all....whilst the sprocket type idler on the car to be fixed...spun for 5- 6 seconds. yet it looked old. Now I have looked at a U-tube of a guy showing idlers....and they spun like crazy. Can you fellows out there give a few thoughts to the above and pass them on to me? That would be wonderful...and I am sorry that my pics just aren't being uploaded. thanks Rae

not to worry...got it off...though it may be substantially stretched. thanks for reading...but all is well...still would like to know how to upload my images. Got a message that if I could upload them to the community they would be there for all to see...but no mention of how to do this RAE

When I click on image....it comes up with a window that asks for a URL and when I try to cancel it....it , the window, won't go away. So I have to refresh the page (and lose everything I typed)

How to get fan off A/C pulley without wrecking it? do I have to remove the A/C motor? to get at the timing belt covers.? Trying to put a photo up or two, just to get practice but have not managed it.

common sense....something to be said about that. Pity that politicians don't use it much....nor the judicial system. thanks for the reply...and thanks for the mention of the various streaming sites. I have been looking at some of them....and figure I might get lucky and get that game on one of them. Hope so....one of those Cinderella games....where 2 Cinderella teams are fighting for the Grey Cup....but only one will be happy in the end. As you may know...Canadian football is similar to American....except fewer chances to make 10yards fewer players on the field longer and wider playing field....therefore more open game thanks again. rae

also...you suggested using lower KM ones from parts car.... yOU also said essential NEW parts were belts. So you are suggesting NOT using the used belts with 20000 km? (even if they are oil and obvious wear free)? thanks to all in advance for replies

And thanks to everyone who has posted a reply. The internet is so wonderful. Now if only I could watch the Canadian Grey Cup here without having to join some subscriber based private channel for 3 months just to see one game. (I live in Australia...but am Canadian)

THANKS crazyhorse001....and your thoughts on the adjusters....replace them....or use the ones I have?

one more thing....I have tried to spin the idler pulley and it is rather stiff....will move but won't spin...is this normal? and the adjuster pulley spin but not for long at all....like 2 --4 seconds max. Again....normal???

Many thanks for your replies. I have taken the timing belt covers off and found the culprit...the long belt is broken. I note on the cam that someone previously has marked a touch of paint beneath a tooth on the cam....but this touch of paint on each cam DO NOT match the tiny holes in the cam pulley. Strange....but I guess I should use the little hole to deal with my timing. Also the car I am using for parts had a timing kit installed (says the sticker on the inside....I haven't removed the covers yet...and am working on that right now...but taken a break because of visitors). I am thinking that if the kit was installed 20,000 km ago...the belts and tension adjusters and idler pulley can be reused....Any thoughts on this?? I notice that there is NO indication of oil inside my timing belt area...although I didn't take off the cam pulleys and inspect behind them. I read somewhere (possibly here) that ""if it isn't broke....don't fix it"" and since seals can be easily inserted incorrectly, I am leaning in the direction of not putting them in....even if I go down the path of buying a kit. Again...thoughts on this???? Thanks in advance Rae

thanks for your words and thoughts, NO no power steering, and Air Con has been taken out as it didn't work anyway. Had to improvise and put in a length of bolt material to create a new bolt to keep alternator in place when A/C was taken out. maybe that will speed things up. I will think long and hard about leaving the cover off for the future...seems like a good plan....except that we live near the beach, and I do worry about salt corrosion. sincerely, Rae