ScoobySchmitty

Sounds suspiciously like mis-fires. Mine did this, but it was the Idle Air Controller, and my tach moved. Maybe a run through with injector cleaner? Also, what octane do you put in??? ScoobySchmitty:D

Uh... a giant square drive screwdriver? Actually I should change my diff oil too. I wonder if a 1/2 drive on a ratchet would fit it??? homespun for sure, but make sure you use a Craftsman tool. You break it, they replace it, no questions (Probably THE WORST advice I've given so far...) Bottom line, I don't rightly know. ScoobySchmitty

I am pretty sure it is the original radiator. It does not leak at all, so I don't really think a new one is necessary. Though, I have been wrong before. <---(same guy who thought a cracked and bending clutch fork was a bad pressure plate! :-p) Once I flush and refill the radiator, AND clean out the fins, I'll post back. thanks for the quick reply! ScoobySchmitty:banana:

Hi Guys, A peculiar little development in my Soob. The other day while waiting "patiently" in a drive thru, I noticed that my temp gauge was slowly climbing. Not really worried, I heard my fans come on, so I waited another few minutes. It finally got near the red, so I shut it off while I still waited for my food. Since then, I've paid close attention to the temp gauge and that fan sound. I keep hearing the fans turn on, if I sit at a light for a minute, but the temp gauge does not rise. I'm thinking of just doing a coolant change, and maybe mixing about 70% H20 / 30% AF to boost the cooling properties of the mixture (Water can absorb more heat energy than antifreeze). Besides that and possibly a new thermostat, any other ideas??? Thanks in advance! ScoobySchmitty:banana:

I think that with a turbo system, you will definitely want a higher octane. Higher octane fuel takes more energy to ignite than regular fuel, so it is used in HIGHER COMPRESSION engines. An engine set up for turbo has around an 8.0:1 compression ratio, WITHOUT the turbo charge. I'm not sure what the compression is with the turbo, but I am ASSUMING (keyword, so don't flame me experts!) that it is around 10.0-11.00:1 compression. When you compress the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder, the air heats up, and that heat ITSELF can ignite the fuel! However, the higher the octane, the smaller the chance that the fuel will prematurely ignite before the piston reaches full compression. A car's computer can compensate for this pre-ignition on lower octane fuels, but as Strakes and calebz said, your car will run horribly. Hope this helps out! ScoobySchmitty

Like in the top of the post, I just wanted to get a general concencus on getting new types of plugs/wires. The stock plugs and wires ARE doing a good job right now. Thanks for all the input everybody, this really helps out! ScoobySchmitty

ROFLPMP!!! You should have made him taste it too, to make sure it really was "burned" :brolleye:

Ok, here's my experience: Setright's description is very accurate, it handles like a RWD car with help from the front. With power to the front wheels you are able to better handle any slides you may encounter. I had a friend drive my 1st Gen manual Legacy once, and when he got in a slide, the first thing he did (and the worst to do) was get on the clutch. After a 360 the keys were back in my hands. :-p If you know how to handle cars at all, an AWD car gives the best feedback and has the most natural feel to its handling. Just remember: 4WD can get you out, but AWD can keep you out! Oh, and one more thing about AWD. kevinsUBARU is right about the parking lot test. I once got it to spin around it's yaw axis (imagine a pole coming up from the center of the car) AND I have witnesses! ScoobySchmitty

This is an interesting thread. I assume you have to have the ignition in the "on" position to start the car (otherwise there's no point to having a key anymore). Do you have pictures? I am just curious, this sounds like a funky trick mod you could do to amaze and astound your friends! The amazing self-starting car! ScoobySchmitty:banana:

ROFLPMP!!!!! Oh man that is AWSOME! 1 WHOLE PSI of boost?! That'll REALLY make my EJ22 SCREAM off the line!

Oh, you have GOT to be kidding me! I hate to see the poor sucker that falls for this BS. Some company out there is putting out an "e-supercharger" as they call it. Basically a vacuum Here's the link: TorqueWind And here is the ebay item they are pushing off of Soob owners. They say it pushes 240 CFM into the manifold. Sure, great. But at what PRESSURE?! The volume won't matter if there is no pressure to it! Yegads, what baloney. ScoobySchmitty

I thought that pinging was caused by using the wrong grade of fuel? Brett, you could try just changing to a different fuel (like you said), but it does not sound like anything is wrong with the engine. I won't get into the timing situation, because (knock on wood) I have not needed to replace the timing belt or adjust it in any way. Anyway, keep everyone posted as to what you tried an what happened. Good luck and welcome aboard! ScoobySchmitty:banana:

Ok, guys, here's a bit of a poser. I've got a 91 Legacy in good shape for it's age (201k miles), but I've had an interesting problem for about 3 months now. It is an annoying noise coming from the front wheels, sounding like wum....wum....wum, in the turns. Initially I thought it was the wheel bearings, but upon further inspection, the bearings were fine, they were tight. My discs are a bit warped, so my current conclusion is that the brake pads are slightly rubbing against the warped discs in the turns, causing the noise. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Let me know what you think. ScoobySchmitty

In a matter of speaking, I removed the filter box and replaced it with a Cosmo Racing cone filter. A lot of cars do not follow the "cold air" idea because they worry about mainfold icing, so the pre-heat the intake air. :madder: Stupid idea. You get more power from MORE DENSE cold air! Anyway, it's just a bigger intake than that little hole on my filter box. Legacy777 had said he made more intake holes on the bottom of his airbox, and this worked out as well as a washable filter. Guess I should have read this before spending the $30 on the new filter :-P Oh well, it looks better than the filter box did ScoobySchmitty:banana:

If it's auto, it's out of my league. But if it is manual, either you need to work on your throttle control, or your IAC valve on the intake manifold is leaking (like mine was). ANYWAY, just my $.02 ScoobySchmitty:banana:

I have to agree with tre-7 on this one. I would go with a stock WRX motor and build from there. BUT, since you already have JDM connections, I would definitely go for a EJ20T from an STi. Better yet, maybe you can find a front clip instead. As far as a transmission is concerned, I believe the stock AWD tranny is able to handle 300 HP or better, but don't hold me to this. Keep us updated on this future Honda Killer! ScoobySchmitty PS, do you have the SRD20DET saki-sipper in that 240? Just curious

Damn, now THIS is a puzzle. :-\ I have NEVER heard of a tranny just blowing, in NEUTRAL no less! First off, I would locate your nearest trans shop, and see if they have dealt with Subaru transmissions before. Explain the problem, and see if you can ferret out possible causes. If they are a good shop, their tech's might give you a few things to look for, to find out what the problem is. Hopefully they are not a bunch of money-grubbing jerkwads waiting for you to give up and tow your Scoob in just to tell you it's broken for $90. Keep posting on the site, maybe someone else will have some info. Sorry I can't help you more in this respect, I've got the 5 speed. Good Luck! ScoobySchmitty

Hiya RB, I know there was an ancient post regarding cool Scoob cruisers around the world. I think there was even one in Wyoming, a 00-02 Legacy OBS. It looked kick-rump roast as a cruiser, though I don't know if it was modified. Tell you what, though. I think a B4 Blitzen (Read: Japanese TURBO Legacy :-D) would be the best implementation of a police cruiser, especially in mountainous areas where AWD is an added bonus on dirt and snowy roads. AND, here's the good news. I was reading Road & Track the other day, and came across the "First Look" section regarding the new Legacy's in Japan. They will have a Turbo version coming to the states, with as much as 250 horses! Imagine THAT with a set of bubble-gum machines on the hood! My only (small) qualm is that it looks like a street-racer's Honda Accord Anyway, that's all I know. If you want, I'll get more info on the new Leg's and send it your way. Have fun with the Impreza Allen! ScoobySchmitty:headbang:

Ok, I'm assuming that Subaru has not changed their basic layout for doors, besides the different models. I know on my Legacy, you have to remove the screws holding the interior door handle, pop the plastic temp rivets that hold the door secure, then lift UPWARDS on the door to pull it out. It works better when you have the window rolled down, and, if you have a little triagular piece of plastic on the interior, where the mirror mounts, remove that as well. not sure if it is screwed in or just has rivets (1st gen Leg's it was a snap in piece). Also, remember to unplug the connector for the power W/L! Hope this insight helps, just remember, this is a Legacy, not an Impreza! Maybe, just maybe, the apples don't fall far from the tree. Peace, out.

Yeah, I know that whole Splitfire =5 hp boost is BS, I just didn't know if the wires would make a difference. I've got NGK V-Power plugs in right now, don't know the wires, but it runs well. What other engine mods would be do-able, besides a cold air intake (DONE ) ScoobySchmitty

I'd like to install new wires and plugs in my 91 Legacy for better mileage and/or acceleration (when I need it), but a few questions.... [*]What brand wires & plugs should I use? [*]What kind of gain should I expect, such as high-rpm or low-rpm increase in HP? [*]What about a new coil-pack? Do they even MAKE performance coil packs? [/list=1] Thanks for the help guys & gals! ScoobySchmitty:burnout:

:madder: Holy Cheese Batman! I didn't pay that much for my 2 Legacy's AND all their parts COMBINED!!!

90 Legacy: - 1 1.4 cu.ft mini-fridge - 2 large 30 quart bins w/ assorted junk - 1 27" TV - 1 Full Tower computer - 1 17" Viewsonic - 2 LARGE Suitcases of clothing - 1 laptop - 1 office chair (old METAL) - 4 6 ft Pine 4x4's - 1 Laundry Hamper (obligatory dirty laundry for home) :-D Now who says engineering majors CAN'T PACK! ScoobySchmitty

Maybe if you go to a local glass shop they can give you a fix. Just curious, is this safety glass? (plastic|glass|plastic) or just plain shatter glass? ScoobySchmitty

I had an old 90 Legacy that was a real bear. The problem, I found out later, was that it kept throwing manual tranny's, because someone forgot to check the differential ratio, before installing a replacement. Probably an independent mech. Anyway, since then I have become more cautious when purchasing cars, making sure parts match up. Sure enough, I bought a white 91 Legacy Wagon last December, that just needed some TLC (and new tires). Since then, all I have had to replace was a CRACKED clutch fork (don't know my own strength), and a clutch. Other than that, and usual maintenance items, such as belts, filters & oil, it has been a dream! Always starts, always runs well, and has the best ride of any other car I've driven! I just installed a cold-air intake, and not only did my milage shoot up, my throttle-ups and down-shifts became much smoother! I can't say enough good things about my Scoob, so I'll just say one thing: I don't think I will EVER buy anything but a Scoob. Rock on! ScoobySchmitty