Marck

pics no work?

I could cut more metal out with my little dremel, but I do not know how to weld and have no access to a welder. Do I really need to have more metal welded in or can I just leave it with a hole? The rust is located underneath the car behind the front left tire.

I bought the metal ready. I was going to put some water in a squirt bottle and shoot some distilled H20 in there to wash out the metal ready, but I too don't feel comfortable about introducing more water to the frame. And I don't think the POR-15 will be able to cover all the hidden rust inside the frame (or at least it would be to hard to tell). Somethings came up, so I will not be able to apply the POR-15 until tomorrow. So if somebody can get a better solution to my problem before monday at 3:00 pm pacific time, then that would be great.

Did they have any xts with spider intake? If so then here is what I am looking for: 1) A/C bracket from a spider intake for a Matsusheta Compressor (smaller square looking air conditioning compressor). 2) EGR solenoid valve (part# AESU128- 6Z25) -it sits on the turbo spider waterpipe and it is the one that is closest to the thermostat. -the one on the NA spider waterpipe may be the same. 3) a small vacuum line. There are two small vacuum hoses that go from the manifold to the throttle body. If you can get me those two little hoses then that would be great. 4) dashpot. Part number printed on it is: APDV34-2 5) any PCV & AAV hoses in good non-cracked condition from a turbo spider intake manifold. Were you ever able to get the dimensions on the box with the RX rear window panels?

Is it a good idea to wash under the car? It would help me target the rust sooner. What can I use to get all that grease w/ mud off without ruining the undercoating? I don't think water alone will do the trick.

Under my subaru there is a hole (caused by rust) the size of a quarter in the frame. The rust is really bad in this area. So far I removed the rust with a dremel around the hole and inside as far as the dremel reaches. I also made the hole bigger with the dremel, knocked against the frame with a screw driver causing lots of rust chips to fall out of the hole. But the rust still climbs the inside of the frame. I was thinking of spraying POR-15 up into the hole. This is what I am going to use to spray it: http://www.prp-porstore.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PV&Category_Code=Supplies. What do you think? Is there a better solution to this?

Does it have an AC bracket? I am currectly looking for an AC bracket from a NA or Turbo spider for the Matsusheta (smaller square looking A/C compressor). If you decide to not buy the spider and it has the AC bracket or if you decide to buy the spider and you do not need the A/C bracket, then please let me know. If it is a spider turbo and your turbo wagon is an 87 or newer (uses MAF), then the spider intake is an easy swap and the wiring harness should connect with your car (double check to be sure). You will need the pitching stopper and bracket (there are two kinds so you will have to get the one that works with your tranny), also the water pump timing mark plate is helpful, grab the cooling pipe that goes from the waterpump to the heater core, the PCV hoses, and all the brackets for A/C and the alternator. If your turbo wagon is an 85-86, then prepare to do some rewiring in addition. If the spider is a NA, then it gets really tough because in addition to the above, you have to figure out how your are going to get coolant to the turbo and swap all injectors, idle switch, and maybe some other sensors.

I meant board member's dry wallets, not TWE. I got the impression that you were going to give up on the TWE pipes and make your own.

Is this deal still going to happen or what? It seems that it has all fallen apart due to TWE involvement with a racing program and people's dry wallets. I am still very much interested. Is there still enough people interested to make this happen and are you guys going to have the money when TWE has some time to make these pipes? Maybe if we all call in, they will consider putting us at a higher priority.

I won't need to worry about the plenum being in the way either since I will be running the spider intake w/ an intercooler . Good progress.

I think this is a good idea. My rubber intake boot has a large split coming from where the intake boot connects to the turbo. So I went out to the salvage yard the other day to find one in better condition. When I tried to install the salvage yard boot, it also split and at the same spot. A metal pipe would take care of that problem. I have a few suggestions: I would like to see a BOV recirculation tube on the intake pipes you are making. And maybe come with a cap to plug it if the buyer doesn't have a BOV to recirculate. What brand air filter are you going to sell with your intakes? You may want to sell your intakes without the air filter and let the buyer choose his/her own air filter.

I was going to custom make my own like everybody else, but if you are trying to get a group buy like TWE going again, then I may be interested. Like to see pics. Who will be designing and making them? Whats the latest on TWE?

We replied at the same time, lol.

Last night, I took the throttle body off my spider intake that I recently got. The diameter of the throttle body from the spider is about 2.25 inches from where the intercooler hose would connect and 2 inches at where it connects to the intake manifold. The opening for the throttle body on the spider intake manifold is 2 & 1/16 inches. Now all we need is the specs of the XT6 throttle body.

WJM, the only pic I have seen is for the header, but what about the downpipe? I must be blind...can you send me a direct link to the pic. Any answers to the questions I sent you?

'I' for the header and 'I' for the downpipe as well, although I would like to see a pic of the downpipe to see what I am getting into. Downpipe is mandrel bent too right? I will send ya an email too. Update: Hey WJM, if you can't get me a pic, then just answer those questions on that email I sent you and that will be good enough. Also add this question to the list: Is the downpipe also mandrel bent?

This will help: http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html

I wouldn't part it out. Theres not enough wrong with it to justify parting it out (unless it has mucho rust). My car has two bad rear axles, cracked turbo side head (crack is in exhaust port), cracked crossover pipe, doesn't pass smog (due to cracked crossover pipe), doesn't boost (also due to cracked crossover pipe or turbo may be bad), and the list goes on and I am still not parting mine out. At one point in time the car was on fire (literally) and I still fixed it. But hey, thats just me...I never give up. I got plans underway to fix the problems and get some serious hp out of this thing. I never had to change the fuel pump before so I do not know what that involves, but I don't think its that hard to change. If the bad turbo gasket you are talking about is between the downpipe and the turbo, then it is really really easy to replace. If it is between the turbo and crossover/manifold pipe then that can be a bit of a pain, but not as bad as changing a head . If its too much trouble to repair and deal with yourself, then I recommend selling it cheap to someone on the board or to someone who can fix it, but I wouldn't part it out. I know sometimes these cars can be hard to deal with because if your car is anything like mine, something else will break after fixing it. My car has been nickel and diming me for three years. But if you sell the car that will save you lots of money in future repairs:D.

Check out this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12054&highlight=tech+works

I found this on EBAY: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50449&item=2472711669&rd=1 I wonder if 'donbucket' is a board member. He could have least mention the USMB.

Thats good news. This is going to be the best performance mod that we could ever do to these cars. I vote for studs and I think I will be using the stock turbo. If I decide to upgrade the turbo down the road, then I can always do the legacy/EA82T turbo hybrid thing. That way I won't have to modify flanges on these pipes. I would still like to see a pic of the downpipe if you can get one from TWE. Keep us updated.

I am using the MSD Blaster High Vibration Coil (PN 8222). I don't know about the suby coils, but the accel superstock and msd blaster coils are oil filled. I can't remember what my initial source was. I am not able to provide a direct link, but follow these instructions for one source: 1) go to http://store.summitracing.com/ 2) click on "Ignitions & Electronics" 3) click on "Ignition Coils" 4) click on " MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coils" 5) click on "More Details >> " and a new window will pop open. 6) in the new window, click on "TECHNICAL" Then read and you will see that it says "Do not mount these coils horizontally or upside down. The oil will not sufficiently cover the windings for cooling purposes and the coil may overheat." I also called Summit Racing to verify and it is true that you cannot mount these coils horizontally. So I paid $10 more and got the high vibration (epoxy filled) coil. I am pretty sure that the same goes for the accel superstock too because it is very similar to the msd blaster. I think I also remember reading about this in the instructions for my coil. Check your instructions and it will tell you how to mount it.

I just want to make sure that everybody here knows that you have to mount these oil filled coils vertically, otherwise you can expect them to burn up. That means that you can't put them in the stock location because the stock location mounts them horizontally. If you want to mount the coil horizontally then you need to get a high vibration coil. Those coils are epoxy filled so that they can be mounted in any direction.

It is for the A/C.

Alright, I just went out and bought a quart of paint. I just wanted to make sure the rust doesn't come back. I thought the rust proof primer looked like a cheaper better solution, but I'll stick with the safe side and put a couple coats of paint over it too.