Marck

Many thanks Skip. Thats what I wanted to know. I couldn't take any pics because the turbo is currently hooked back into my car. But I noticed that hole the last time I pulled the turbo. That maybe one of two reasons why my turbo doesn't boost. Maybe if I put some teflon tape around the bolt that might seal it up better or maybe I should start looking for another turbo. Another reason why my turbo doesn't boost maybe because of the exhaust leak in the crossover pipe. I wonder what idiot mechanic put an American bolt into a turbo which calls for a metric stud and drills the hole all the way through to the turbo's exhaust inlet.

I want to know if the lower right stud hole on the turbo's exhaust outlet should go all the way through to the turbo's exhaust inlet. That means that the stud (or bolt in my case) is holding the inlet exhaust gases from leaking out. Does anybody have a spare RHB5 turbo from an EA82T that they can look at? Is that clearer?

Thanks for all the info. I have also been thinking about doing the swap, but I wanted to make sure that my car would still pass smog in California. I have seen them check my EGR everytime I took it in for smog.

Here is a quick question: Does the spider intake manifold that comes on the MPFI XT have an EGR? If it doesn't have an EGR then how can it be smog legal in California?

Somebody, in the past history of my car, replaced one of the metric studs that hold the downpipe to the RHB5 turbo with a large standard bolt. I am talking about the lower right stud. The hole that this bolt screws into goes all the way through into the inlet of the exhaust side (crossover pipe side). Should this stud hole go all the way through like that? I hope I said that clear enough because it was hard to explain.

are you sure it is coolant? If your power steering pump has red fluid, then it could be leaking on top of the block. Also there is a water pipe that bolts to the back of the intake manifold. It could be that too.

they are 6.5 inch in the rear in a 3 door coupe

I am going to be resealing my engine near the end of December. I was planning on replacing my oil pump with an oem one, but that was before I knew about the High Volume Oil Pump. So are the high volume pumps worth it? Is Toga a good brand? Are these pumps just as good as OEMs? Has anyone tried one?

XSNRG, you just described my car. '87 3dr turbo coupe, 55 VIN, Lake blue paint, black air dam and spoiler, mud flaps instead of side skirts, turbo, full time dual range trans, LSD, RX interior, manufactured in 12/86.

I bought mine through these guys, but I ordered mine through the phone: http://www.radiatorconnection.com/auto/HiPerformance/Subaru/sc1.htm

A red CRX driving way to fast in the neighborhood (trying to show off) hit the corner of the rear bumper on my mom's parked 92 Oldsmobile Achieva. It was a hit and run. Witnesses say that the CRX was doing about 40mph and they said that the front of the CRX was completely bashed in. My mom's car got no dents or scratches, but it now has some red paint on the rear bumper (Honda Blood ). Serves them right .

Alright, I was reading another thread that Tex started: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3482&highlight=XT6+flywheel+weight and according to skip I can take up to 7.5 pounds off of the EA82T flywheel. Is this correct (please verify)? So here is what I want to do: I want to lighten the EA82T flywheel about 6 pounds and use an XT6 clutch and pressure plate. Is this ok? Is 6 pounds a good number? BTW, This is for my 87 turbo 3 door coupe with the fulltime 4wd tranny. Sorry for taking over your thread.

What did you do with the AAV? You said the spider feels better, but in what sense? Is it faster, smoother, accels faster, etc. and by how much? Sorry to be bothering you with the questions, but I am trying to determine if it is worth going to the trouble to do the swap. There is a NA spider in a local junkyard and I am planning on resealing the engine in a month, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to look into it. Also, are you using standard head gaskets? Here are some more questions about things I know nothing about: Also, why change the flywheel to the XT6 one? I am guessing that it is lighter, right? What effect does a lighter flywheel have again? Can I just shave the EA82T flywheel and get the same effect? How does the clutch and pressure plate from the XT6 compare with the standard ones. Do XT6 flywheels, clutches, and pressure plates, all interchange with one another?

Well, I squirted into the cylinders the same type of oil that I was running in the crankcase, Mobil 1 10W-30. Also it was hard to tell if the oil made it into the spark plug holes, so some cylinders may have gotten more oil than others. I guess that explains why the compression skyrocketed after oil was added. I guess that means I can discard those readings. Should I do the compression test over again with something like MMO or WD-40? BTW, The compression rose quickly after the first and second strokes on each cylinder. I ran the car down the high way before the compression test and the engine runs great, even with the crack in the turbo side head and the large exhaust leak in the crossover pipe . Whats a leak down check?

Does painting the engine parts help any thing but making it look good? My opinion: I think red heads with black valve covers would look great, and keep the block plain or polish it.

Looking good. Do you notice any difference (in terms of performance) between the spider manifold and the standard EA82T manifold? Did you use a spider manifold out of a turbo XT or a non-turbo XT? Nice tires. I think 17s would look great. Just curious about what size tires did you put on the 18 inch rims?

They sell them here for $10: http://www.expressautoparts.com/ I haven't bought one yet, but I plan to buy one after I reseal my engine...whenever that is .

I just did a compression test and I want you guys to take a look at the results and give me your opinions. The turbo side head has a crack between the exhaust port and the water jacket, so I plan to replace the heads. The reason I did a compression test was to see how worn the piston rings were. I want to know if I should replace the whole engine or just the heads. BTW, the engine should have no more than 70,000 miles on it because it was a used Japan engine gurranteed to have no more than 50,000 miles and I think I put about 15,000-20,000 miles on it. Here are the results: BTW, I cranked the engine about 5 times for each reading. Cylinder 1 Reading 1: 125 psi Reading 2: 125 psi Cylinder 2 Reading 1: 130 psi Reading 2: 137-140 psi Cylinder 3 Reading 1: 138-140 psi Reading 2: 137 psi Cylinder 4 Reading 1: 127-130 psi Reading 2: 133 After I did this test, I decided to do it again but this time I squirted some oil into the cylinders. Cylinder 1 Reading 1: 175 psi Reading 2: 170-175 psi Cylinder 2 Reading 1: 165 psi Reading 2: 163 psi Cylinder 3 Reading 1: 155 psi Reading 2: 155-160 psi Cylinder 4 Reading 1: 155 psi Reading 2: 155 I am concerned about how much the pressures raised after I squirted oil into the cylinders. Although I admit that trying to get the oil to go into the cylinders was a pain in the butt and I think I got carried away and put too much oil into each cylinder. Are these readings normal? Is it normal for the pressures to raise this much after oil is squirted into the cylinders? Are my piston rings worn?

According to the Haynes Manual, I need to: (1) Warm up the Engine (2) Remove ALL Spark Plugs (3) Block the throttle wide open (4) Disconnect the primary wires from the coil(s) (5) Hook up the compression gauge and crank engine at least 4 times. Record the highest reading. (6) Repeat procedure for remaining cylinders (7) Add three squirts of oil to each cylinder and repeat test According to my 87 FSM, I need to: (A) Warm up the Engine ( Remove ALL Spark Plugs © Disconnect the harness connectors for injectors (D) Fully open the throttle valve (E) Crank the engine by means of the starter motor and record when pointer on guage is steady (F) Perform at least two measurements per cylinder Some of my questions are stupid or basic, but I just want to make sure I get correct readings without screwing anything else up. My questions are: Do I do 3 or D by holding the gas pedal down or by using my hand to pull the accel cable? How do I do 4? Which wires are the primary wires? Are they talking about the wire that goes from the distributor cap to the ignition coil or are they talking about the wires that are connected to the neg and pos on the coil or both? What happens if I skip C? Why do I need to do C? Why doesn't the Haynes Manual say to do C? Why doesn't the FSM say to do 4? Does E just mean to crank the engine by turning the key or is there another way to crank the engine? Do I follow the FSM or the Haynes Manual or what? When I did a compression test in a high school auto class 3 years ago I thought I just removed one spark plug at a time, hooked up the compression guage, and cranked the engine. I am confused .

Well, you guys were right. Replaced the alternator and everything is back to normal . It took a while to get the alternator because NAPA ordered the wrong one :madder:. Thanks for all the help!

How do I convince NAPA that the alternator is bad? I have a lifetime warranty on this alternator from NAPA. They tested the charging system and it tested good, so the guy won't give me another alternator. He said that if I think there is something wrong then I should have a diagnosis done at a shop....ya right! Anyway, he wants good proof that the alternator is bad before he hands me another one. Now that I think of it...I bet that lifetime warranty on the alterantor is good at any NAPA store. I can pull my alternator out of my car and take it to another NAPA store where they don't know me and I bet they will just hand me another one without questions. I think I will try that...

I went to NAPA and I had them test it. They said it is good. What I notice is that the voltage according to the voltmeter in the dash looks normal until I hit 4000 rpms. When I get to about 4000 rpms and higher, the voltage is close to the 18 volt mark but not on it (like .5cm away). I don't think it goes any higher than that when I increase the rpms to more than 4000. Should I be worried? I think the charge, brake fluid, and stop light are still on. Its hard to tell if the lights are on in the day. I will check them again when it gets dark. Is it possible that the brake fluid light comes on when the brake pads need to be replaced. I know that my front brake pads are ready to be changed. Also the brake fluid looks dirty and may need to be changed. What does the float look like? Is it that thing that is attached to the bottom of the cap? My car is an 1987 EA82T Coupe.

What does it mean when the charge, brake fluid, and stop dash lamps turn on? I was driving down the highway this morning when it was still dark and then those dash lights turned on. When I got to school, I checked the brake fluid and it was between the low and the full mark. When I left school in the afternoon, I noticed the those same lights on the dash were still on. They weren't bright, but I can tell they were lit when I was driving under a bridge or in shady areas. I stopped at a gas station and bought some dot 3 brake fluid and poured it in until I hit the full mark. Then I left for home and noticed the dash lamps were still on. A little later I noticed my voltmeter was reading higher than it normally does. When I let the rpms drop the voltage drops back down to a normal level. So do I have a brake problem, or electrical or what? It has to happen on the first day of school too. Thats my luck. I need to get this figured out before tomorrow.

I went over to NAPA today for a helicoil kit and I was talking to the guy working there about the crack I have between the exhaust port and the water jacket in the head. He told me about this stuff that can seal cracks in the block, heads, head gaskets, and radiator. It is called K&W Permanent Metallic Block Seal. Do you guys think this will work? Has anyone used this stuff before? I am going to do some reseach on this stuff and maybe give it a try in a few days. I just hope it doesn't clog up my new radiator.

I would like to get this thing put back together tomorrow. What will I have to do to get this thing fixed? Do I need to get a new helicoil? Where can I pick up a Helicoil kit and how much are they? I would like to do this as cheap as possible because the head I am fixing is cracked. I just need to get this car running for a few more months so that I have time to look for a new used car.