Marck
-
Posts
406 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Marck
-
-
Went to play with it just now and found that the problem has gone away. So whatever the problem is, we know it is intermittent.
One thing I tried was bypassing this black valve looking thingy that goes between the pressurized intake nipple on the turbo and the wastegate nipple. What is this for/do? My mbc is installed right after it before the wastegate nipple. It also has a third hose that tees inbetween the intake (before turbo) and one of the hookups on the black canister. Originally I thought it had to do with the boost light on the dash, but then found that the light still works when this thing is bypassed, so the boost light must use the pressure switch that is next to it. So if anybody knows what I am talking about and knows what this is for, please let me know.
Another idea I had about the problem was that maybe the BPV on my WRX intercooler is leaking-as it is not closing all the way when it should be. Next time the problem comes back, I will trying removing the intake hose that controls it, so that it stays permantently closed.
-
put a temp "T"ee into the line
after the MBC going to the WG
then connect your boost gauge to it
that will show you if it's the problem
How does this show me if it is the problem? I did this just now. The boost would climb to 6psi at full boost and stay there. So what does this mean? The car felt like it was running at 6psi too.
I expected that the turbo would run to about 13psi (where the mbc is set to), then the mbc would open and the boost gauge would abruptly read 13psi. But I guess this is not how it works. Because the boost gauge is installed, once the mbc opens, the boost leaks to the boost guage instead of all of the 13psi going to straight to the wastegate? Is that right?
-
Well, my problem came back yesterday after I did a compression test on the engine. Compression looks alright with about 100-120 PSI per cylinder. I wonder if I have a leak somewhere. I don't have time to get into it this weekend. But I'll keep you all postd on it. I will try what skip suggests about putting the boost gauge after the boost controller to see what happens.
-
I put a stiffer spring in my mbc and that seemed to have cured my problem. I see no signs of a boost leak. Thanks for all the suggestions.
-
I'll bet its the MBC. I bought one like you made, off of Ebay and had the same situation. Either going to have to put out some money for a decent boost controller, or leave it off.
Boost is addicting, so I know thats not going to happen:-p
but the mbc worked just fine for at least 1500 miles. Can these boost controllers go bad suddenly like this even when they worked fine before hand?
-
I have a EA82T car with a mbc and a bunch of other modifications. It was running fine until the other day I pushed it too hard (115mph at 5-5.5rpm
). After I pulled it this hard and came to a stop, I noticed the smell of burnt oil. I wasn't worried about this because I figured it is just oil that got sucked into the intercooler draining down into the engine, thus the smell of burning oil (I need a oil catch can). I checked the oil level a few days later and found it at the min level, so I topped it off. The engine does not continue to burn oil and the dip stick still shows that the oil level is topped off.The problem I am having (that started after I pushed it too hard) is that the boost will raise to the psi that I have the mbc set for, but then it won't hold. The pressure starts to drop down until it reaches stock (7psi) boost. What do you think the problem is? I figured it was something wrong with the home depot mbc that I made, so I took it apart and replaced the spring and the ball bearings. That didn't fix it. I also pulled all the intake hoses and intercooler off, drained whatever oil was sitting in the intercooler, inspected the hoses/pipes, and then put it all back together hoping that if there was a small leak somewhere in the plumbing, it will be gone after I reinstall everything. I ran the car without the mbc and it runs just fine and holds stock boost. But when I install the mbc and try to run anything higher than stock boost, I have this problem where the boost will peak and then start to drop.
-
I just purchased a personal steering hub off ebay for 29 bucks. It comes with the pins to turn the turn signal off. Fits great and fits nardi or personal steering wheels which I must say are very nice and look just like a momo. You can buy an adapter to go from personal to momo bolt pattern. the part #4702 or old code #5910. very nice part. Hope this helps I love mine
I haven't been able to find a personal steering hub off ebay that fits any subarus. Do you have a link?
-
I think I will revert back to the stock wheel, unless I manage to ever locate a 7303. Thanks for all the help.
-
I read somewhere that there is a difference in the depth of the shank on the back of the wheels in the ea82 cars v. legacy/impreza but it will work.
Ya, I tried the 7306. The splines barely make contact, but it is enough to work (I guess). BTW, I tried to remove the 7306 after installing it and it wouldn't come off. I had to modify my steering wheel puller to fit inside the cage to pull it off. It bent the cage up before it finally poped off the steering column. Talk about a waste of $69. MOMO should be putting threaded holes in their hubs to accept the standard steering wheel pullers. The hubs are actually not supposed to be this hard to remove which further makes me believe that these 7306 hubs are not a good match for the EA82 cars.
Anyways, I am looking for a hub that would be a better match for the EA82 columns and was thinking that the 7302 might be a closer match than the 7306 since the EA81 cars are a closer match to EA82 cars than EA82 cars are to EJ cars. So does anybody know if the EA82 and EA81 columns are similar?
-
bump, I guess nobody has tried to put a gen 3 steering wheel onto a gen1/2 or vice versa?
-
Will the MOMO 7302 steering wheel hub adapter fit onto an EA82 car? Because 7303 (gen 3 EA82) is impossible to come by, but a 7302 (gen 1,2) can still be bought on ebay, and I didn't like the fit of the 7306 (impreza, legacy). I don't care if the horn bits don't connect, I just want to know if the 7302 hub have the same splines and shaft size as the EA82 cars? Will the hub slide onto the steering column all the way? I want to give it a try if nobody has tried before, but if it doesn't fit I am hoping somebody will buy the hub from me, because I can't afford to throw away any more money.
-
I'm not sure about getting them serviced. But its a craftsman, they'll usually replace defecive equipment free of charge at a crafsman dealer. I've done it may times at the local sears store. I've broken too many 1/4 drive ratchets in my day:-\
Craftsman torque wrenches only have a 90 day warrantee. But I think they will recalibrate and service them for a fee if you take them in to a sears repair shop.
-
You're torque wrench could be drasticly off. I had one that when set at 51 lb. ft. it was actually throwing over 100 at the bolts. How old is yours?
I think you may be right. My torque wrench is a craftsman digitork wrench 5-80 ft-lbs and it has been acting strange. I think it is 3 to 4 years old, but I use it a lot. I should get it serviced. I'll try using my other torque wrench tomorrow.
-
I did NOT use the lock washer, and that allowed the nut to thread, nearly evenly, onto the shaft. The adapter did NOT slide all the way on, BUT it did BITE the shaft splines properly and with the nut impacted down...i'd say 80 ftlbs.....after 400 autox runs, 40k street miles and a day at a road course....oh, and 2 years later down the road...its A-OK.
Thanks man, your always helpful. 80 ft-lbs seems like too much. I think I will try 27 ft-lbs with blue locktite. I hope I get the hub on straight the first time, because I don't know how I am going to pull it off if its off center.
BTW, for those wondering how to wire the horn. My horn button has 2 spade tabs, one goes to ground and the other goes to the horn wire under the dash (follow the clock spring wires to a 3-wire plug (if you have cruise control) that accepts spade plugs). The 2 wires will simply wrap around the steering shaft as you turn the steering wheel. It seems okay and looks like it will work well. Just remember to leave enough slack in the wires to turn the wheel completely to each side.
-
I decided to use my torque wrench to torque the nut on, that way I reduce the chance of stripping the steering wheel shaft. I set the torque to 27 ft-lbs (my FSM calls for 22-29 ft-lbs) and began tightening the nut. After a little while, I decided to reduce the torque to 15 ft-lbs and work my way up to 27 ft-lbs. It torqued fine at 15 ft-lbs. Then I jumped up to 21 ft-lbs. At this point the nut stripped out
. I thought I would have to torque the nut above 29 ft-lbs to strip the nut off. Well after removing the nut and inspecting, I found that the steering column threads look okay and it was the nut that took in all the damage. I was relieved. I will have to go get a new nut tomorrow and try again. Whether this hub moves in all the way or not, the nut should still torque upto 29 ft-lbs. I'll give it another try tomorrow and will not torque the nut more than 25 ft-lbs (to be safe). But at this point I am thinking that the 7306 impreza/legacy hub will not slide in anymore. It looks like it might slide in if I bore out the inside of the hub just behind the splines. So what should I do at this point. Give installing the hub by torque the nut on another chance? Or I could remove the hub and bore out the inside of the hub just a little. I could use a dremel to remove a little metal. Will this ruin the balance of the hub? Does that matter? And how do I remove the hub cause there are no threaded holes on the hub to use my steering wheel puller?
For future reference, the nut is a M12 with a 1.25mm pitch.
-
I am having trouble getting the 7306 momo steering wheel hub adapter to slide all the way on the steering column splines. I have it part way (I think), but not as far in as the stock steering wheel was. I can only get the one washer and the nut on the threads (recall that there is a washer, lock washer, and nut that holds the steering wheel on). I used the washer and nut to slide the hub in by tightening the nut. The steering wheel doesn't want to slide in any more and I am worried that if I keep trying to tighten that nut, the threads on the steering column will strip out. I have tried putting a light amount of grease on the splines to help them slide in and I have also tried using a sledge hammer and a long socket to tap the hub on. And now, not only I can't get the hub adapter on all the way, but I can't get the hub off neither.
Is the hub adapter supposed to slide in more? If so, then whats the best way to get it on there?
update: It looks like the hub needs to slide in another 3/8". But I would call it good enought if I could get the washer, lock washer, and the nut all the way on.
-
Not worth the trouble - you wouldn't gain even .5 HP from it.
Lighten the flywheel if you want to do something productive.
GD
Been there, done that. I have a XT6 flywheel with 6 pounds removed. But is that all it will gain? The harmonic balancer pulley is pretty heavy. I would think putting on a SPFI pulley would give it maybe 5hp. Or it should at least make it rev faster.
-
All Turbo models had the balancer, A/C or not.
Are there any ill effects if you swaped the balancer/dampener pulley for a regular pulley on a turbo EA82 engine? (Obviously reasons for doing this is to reduce rotating mass like that of lightening the flywheel.) I figure there may be long term effects. The main bearings may wear faster.
How many out there have swapped pulleys without problems and how many miles have you put on it?
-
The thread on the crank sprockets (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69210) has sparked a question in me. Why did Subaru feel that it was necessary to have a harmonic balancer pulley on the Turbo EA82? The NA EA82 just has a regular pulley to drive the accessories.
-
Also, to reclarify, the sprocket with the dot on the face at 5:30 is the inner one (closest to the engine). This one also has the groove on the backside to hug the crankshaft better.
I guess I will definantly be switching mine back to the way it was since it was right the first time. At least now we know the TRUTH!!
-
I just took a look at the sprokets I have.
We'll see what comes in brand new tomorrow...
Were you able to find the truth on this? I may switch back and see if I notice any difference.
-
the first set of calipers i got from a nissan looked like the ones you have. the cable bracket hit the CV. so the next time i was at pull a part. i found a 200SX early 90's and they pulled from the bottom rather than the side and they fit awesome.
-=Suberdave=-
Numbchux, tried to use the 200sx calipers and still had to bend the brackets because the ebrake bracket hits the trailing arm. So it makes no difference whether I use the 200sx calipers or the 240sx calipers. Either way I have to bend the ebrake bracket or pull the caliper further away from the center by using XT6 backing plates or something. When you used the 200sx calipers, did they fit without hitting the trailing arm? And are you using the stock 4 lug discs and backing plates?
-
can't you just bend the bracket out of the way? your already going to have to fab something for the e-brake cables so I don't think this would be much of a problem?
I suppose I could, but I was planning to do the 5 lug swap in a year or so, so that I can get impreza front struts. This is why I was asking if I can just get the XT6 rear backing plates to bring the caliper further from the axle. I was hoping I can use XT6 backing plates without doing the 5 lug swap so I can at least get the ebrake done before I do the full 5 lug swap (which is still a year away). I may just wait to do the ebrake conversion until then. I need to start hunting for XT6 parts.
-
all s13 (89-93) 240sx's have the same brakes (I know this for a fact) s14's may have diffrent calipers due to the fact some came standard with 5 lug wheels.
So the 240sx had 4 lug wheels from '89 to '93 and 5 lugs from '94 to '98? If this is the case, then I got my calipers from a '89-'93 because I remember the 240sx at the yard had 4-lug wheels.
Help! boost peaks, then drops
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I was doing some research on boost controllers and came across this on wikipedia:
If this is true, this may also be my problem.