Marck
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Posts posted by Marck
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That was a very good suggestion hooziewhatsit. I just now tried that and the car runs worse and I get shocked when I pull out each plug wire except for the number four cylinder. When I start to connect the number four plug wire back on the disrtibutor, I do see the sparks flying from distributor to the plug wire just like each of the other ones. So it is getting spark, but not enough spark to make a complete burn.
I am thinking about repeating the test again and then pull the number four spark plug to see whats going on there. Maybe the gap is too big or something.
Update: Okay I did the test again and now the number four spark plug does make a difference when pull it off. It gave me a good shock too like the other ones.
If the spark plug gaps were too big, would that make it run this way. I am thinking about pulling all four spark plugs and regapping them. I originally set the spark plugs gaps to 0.050 because I am running that MSD Blaster coil.
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I noticed a dew other things that are add on this car. When the power steering wheel is turned all the way to one side, the RPMs will drop almost 1000rpm. When the steering is turned just a little, the rpms will drop a few hundred. The RPMs will also drop some when the heater/AC/blower fan is working.
This makes sense since the engine runs a whole lot better without the accessory belts. So does this mean that the engine cannot idle underload? Now how do I fix this please? I really need some feedback on my past three posts.
I took it for another test drive (1mile) and I found that the temperature will cliimb a little after running it down the street and letting it idle after that.
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Hello,
I got the alternator today, but it made no difference except my check engine light is now gone. The alternator must have been the reason for the false knock sensor code. Since this didn't improve the problem, I tried the following:
-Moved the passenger side T-belt one tooth off
-Moved the driver side T-belt one tooth off
-Moved the passenger side T-belt back to where it was before
-Disconnected the alternator to see how it runs without it plugged in
The squeak is still present and acually occurs with the accessory belts on or off. The check engine light is off. The distributor is timed to 20 degrees BTDC. And the thing still vibrates. I haven't adjusted the TPS yet, but it really makes no difference what position it is in when moving it around with the engine running.
Let me try to describe what it is doing better. I went under the car while the engine was running and found that the squeaking is louder underneath. I also noticed that the squeak doesn't so much sound like a squeak you would here from a tensioner bearing or something, but more like a chirping like a VW bug. The the car vibrates because the engine is chugging (when idling only). It is not sound bad like an earthquake, but its chugging bad enough to feel it while sitting inside the car. The exhaust coming out of the tail pipe is not a continous flow of exhaust, but a bunch of discrete puffs.
Does anybody know what could be the problem? What should I check next.
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Are you sure? I am pretty sure the green ones are the test connectors and the black ones are the memory connectors. Can anyone else verify this?
I did run a compression check before I started this thread and the compression ranges from 125 to 140. I think thats fine, because that is how it was before I did the reseal.
After I pulled off both timing belts and reinstalled them, I went ahead and ran the car without the accessory belts. I couldn't believe it. Not only was the squeaking sound gone, but the car ran so quiet and so smooth. It was almost perfect. Then after I reinstalled the accessory belts, it when back to the way it was before I removed the timing belts. So then I started to move the wiring around distributor, battery, fusible links, AC compressor, and alternator while the enigne was running. When I was doing this, my hand or arm rubbed up againts the alternator body. I noticed that the alternator was kind of hot. I figured that the car ran so good when the accessory belts were disconnected, I should see what happens when I disconnect the alternator electically. So I shut the car off, disconnected the battery, and unpluged the alternator. Then I ran the enigne off the battery. It ran so much smoother than it is was before. Not as good as when the accessory belts were off, but the RPMs didn't fluctuate like it did before, the car was not vibrating as bad, and I think the squeaking was gone too. I repeated the process of connecting the alternator and disconnecting it over and over again to make sure that the problem lies in the alternator.
I feel like it is an 80% chance it is the alternator causing all the problems. It may also be the reason the check engine light is on too. I have one of those crappy NAPA remanufactured lifetime warrantee alternators that like to break down all the time. So I went down to NAPA to get a free replacement but they didn't have one in stock. They ordered one for me and it should be in on Tuesday. So I let you guys know if that solves my problem(s).
Until then, I will try to get the TPS set correctly using the DMM and my FSM. The turbo spider intake manifold came with a 4 pin TPS and my old MPFI turbo intake manifold had the three pin TPS. Does this mean I should use the directions given in the SPFI part of my FSM instead of the MPFI Turbo part? Anyone know if the TPS for the XT Turbo w/ spider man is the same as the one in the SPFI cars? Anybody have a FSM for the 87 plus XT cars that can verify this? Also, should the TPS be adjusted with the battery and/or alternator connected or disconnected and ignition key on or off?
Last thing, anyone know if this oil pressure sender will work with the stock gauge:
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I tried unplugging the green test connectors as I was checking the ignition timing with a timing light and it turns out that the green connectors being plugged in or not has no effect on the timing.
I tried turning the distributor to many different places and it just runs worse than it did before. Then I made the mistake of leaving the breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt while trying to start the engine. I am lucky the distributor was still off so the car wouldn't start. That would have been ugly. Of course the enigne still turned over though, so the breaker bar hit the oil pressure sender unit and broke it and loosened the crankshaft bolt.
Since this happened, I decided to take off the v-belts and timing belts off and investigate the squeaking noise. I turned both tensioners, timing idler, oil pump sprocket, alternator, ac compressor, power steering, water pump, and the v-belt idler. Everthing turned smoothly and nothing squeaked. So where else can this squeaking noise come from? Could it be one of the cams or the throwout bearing? And yes, I did replace the throwout bearing.
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I just pulled the knock sensor connector off and took a good look at it. There is no corrosion in the connector or on the knock sensor and no broken plastic. I used my FSM to test the connector and the sensor. It says to measure the resistance between the inside connection of the knock sensor and the body of the knock sensor and make sure that resistance value is in the given range of the FSM. Then it says to do the same with the connector. It passed both cases, so my knock sensor must be good. Then why the bogus ecu reading? I tried reseting the code using the directions in the FSM, but it doesn't work.
About the distributor, do I just take of the two bolts and pull the distributor off the cam hole and turn the distributor one tooth clockwise or counterclockwise? Because I already tried that. I go ahead and try that again though. Is 11:03pm here and I am not giveing up yet
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I also thought that I would mention that there is oil pressure at idle and that I am using all emissions equipment that came with the spider intake manifold (ie. EGR, PCV, AAV). BTW, the AAV does not seem to work at all. The engine harness had the same plugs as the car so there was no rewiring involved.
Another thing I noticed that has stumped me:
I poured 4 quarts in this engine to begin with which was just below the full mark on the dipstick. Now I am reading way over the full mark and feels kind of thin. Where did the extra oil come from? Did gas get into the oil? The oil looks like clean oil and not like a milkshake, so I know that there is no water or coolant in there.
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I just rechecked the timing belts and they are dead on. BTW, I did not use the three marks on the XT6 flywheel to set the timing belts because I know those are off. I engraved into the XT6 flywheel a new set of marks so that it would match the stock flywheel. I also tried running the engine while using a screwdriver to jiggle the knock sensor wire. I did not have any trouble codes prior to the engine reseal. I resealed the engine because I had a crack in the exhaust outlet of the turbo side cylinder head. I also used this opportunity to replace every single seal and do many mods. There are no backfiring noises, but there is a lot of lifter tapping or knocking.
Now about distributor timing, I did use a timing light to set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC. That is stock for this car. But what I found is that the engine runs much smoother (like the way is is supposed to run) when I advance it to about 40+ degrees BTDC.
Test Drive:
It was hard to drive, but I managed to drive the car down the street and back. It blew a lot of white smoke with maybe a little blue and gray smoke out of the tail pipe. There were also smoke coming form the turbo. I think the smoke is mostly condensation in the exhaust pipe burning off along with engine degresser and WD-40. The Turbo spooled very good (starting at 2000 RPM). It also felt like the engine was holding back a lot of the power.
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The motor mounts are torqued to 25 foot pounds. Whats crosssparking and how do you check for that? How do you check fuel pressure? I placed a steciscope (long screw driver) and heard each fuel injector clicking.
I am curious about the knock sensor too. How do I check the knock sensor electronically? I have an el cheapo digital multimeter that I can use.
The HLA are tapping, but I am not worried about it. I think it will go away after awhile once the car is back on the road. I did take the valve covers off to re-torque the cylinder heads and everything looked in order with the HLA and cams.
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Hello,
I am stumped here :-\ . It runs so rough that when I begin to release the clutch pedal and apply gas the car starts to shake violently like an earthquake. Although it idles rough, it revs very nice and fast. It is also very hard to start (more so when cold) unless the accel pedal is pushed to the floor. There is a squeaking sound but I am unsure if it is related to this problem. I think the squeaking is coming from one of the timing belt tensioners (good thing I ditched the covers). Also another thing that may be related or not is I am getting a code 22 (knock sensor) from the ecu.
Here is whats been done:
ported cylinder heads
new oem turbo head gaskets
delta cams (mild grind)
lightened XT6 flywheel and new clutch (haven't adjusted the clutch cable yet)
TWE Header
Stock downpipe and cat
O2 sensor has been replaced right before the car sat two years ago
turbo spider intake manifold swap (all electrical plugs have been cleaned out and checked for corrosion)
fuel injectors have been cleaned by RC Engineering
new fuel filter
new spark plugs and wires
new oem dirtibutor cap and rotor
old gas has been pumped out of the gas tank and a couple gallons of fresh 91 octane gas has been added
look at my signature for anthing I forgot to list
My thoughts:
Will the delta cams make the car run this rough? I tried to adjust the TPS while the engine was on to see if it had any effect and it doesn't. I also tried turning the distributor 180 degrees. I have been troubleshooting the spark and fuel for a long time and replaced a lot of stuff. Could it be I installed the timing belts incorrectly or could it be some stupid sensor on the spider intake manifold is not working?
What are your thoughts? What should I check next? This is the first time I attempted a project this big so it maybe or not something trivial that I forgot to do. Also note that the car ran fine (with cracked heads and crossover pipe) back in March.
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DO NOT TORQUE THE WATER PUMP BOLTS!!
Listen, get a genuine Subaru gasket, use Blue RTV Sealant or aviation sealant, and get some brand new waterpump bolts. When you tighten the bolts down, just tighen them down by feel in a criss cross patern. If you use a torque wrench, you are almost guaranteed a broken or stripped bolt or even worse a stripped bolt hole in the block. Then you will be starting a new thread about helicoils. I speak from experience. I tried to torque these bolts to spec given by the Haynes manual (cause torque specs for these bolts are not even given in the Factory Service Manual) using a 3/8 torque wrench and one of the bolts snaped. I got lucky that enough of the bolt was sticking out of the block to carefully unscrew it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I learned that the FSM doesn't give torque spes for these bolts for a reason.
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Why not just swap the turbo to a VF11 or TD04?
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Is it a normal size resistor with the color bands or one of those tiny square surface mount resistors? Do you still have the old resistor? If so, you can reuse it. If you still have the old resistor and want to replace it, just get one with the same color bands if it is a normal resistor. If you lost the resistor, you can pull an identical ecu from a junked car to see what kind of resistor that goes there. If you do that, then you might as well just buy the ecu unless the salvage yard wants lots of money for it.
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I found what looks to be an aftermarket spoiler for the Loyale and XT. Here is the link for those who are interested:
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/aacspoilers-subaru.html
If you look carefully, there is a diagram of what it may look like and you can get yours prepainted to match. If anyone buys one or has already done so, be sure to post a picture of what it actually looks like.
Personally, I love the big fat useless rubber spoiler on the back of my 3d coupe.
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VF11 turbo, wrx intercooler w/ BOV, hood scoop, WRX downpipe, and exhaust are coming up for my next mod. I am just planning ahead and thinking about thermostats because I am bored. Somebody from the board once told me that I have to get a 54mm 170˚ thermostat for a GM engine or something because they don't make them for Subarus. I looked all over the place for them and came up with nothing. I had places like NAPA, carquest, and kragen look up 170˚ thermostats in catalogs with no results. So I am wondering if they even exist for any car.
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Can somebody give me a link or refer me to some place online that sells a 54mm 170˚ thermostat. I have tried all local places and even searched summitracing and jegs. I just want the engine to run a bit cooler and 160˚ would probably be over doing it.
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Get some Gunk Engine Degresser/Detailer in the silver bottle with orange top and buy or rent yourself a pressure washer. Good Luck!
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Maybe try using a weaker spring. If this doesn't change any thing, than you most likely have it installed wrong.
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The Gates brand was to recommended to me by a Chevy dealership once. They are supposed to be pretty good and are made in the USA. Napa brand timing belts are made by Gates.
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I guess I should have mentioned that this is my first time installing a clutch, therefore it was a stupid mistake. I completely forgot to line up the two dowel pins on the flywheel with the holes on the clutch cover. I guess I ignored them because I thought that if the bolt holes line up, then the dowel pins should have too. Now that the dowel pins are in the covers holes and the torque is down to 12.5 pounds, everything looks good. All the fingers bent in evenly. It helps sometimes to step back for a day and try it again in the morning. Thanks for the suggestions though.
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I have a lightened XT6 flywheel bolted to a EA82T engine. When I tigten the pressure plate bolts, the spring/fingers begin to bend in. They don't bend in so much that they are flat. Some are bent in more then others. I torqued each bolt down to 12.5 ft-lbs. When I loosen the bolts, the fingers go back to their normal position. I tried retorqueing the bolts again and it does the same thing.
I need to know if this is normal for a new clutch cover? The clutch cover and clutch are made for an XT6 by clutchnet.
-Mark
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I am bumping this thread kind of early cause I really need some feedback on this before I install the flywheel.
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Man, its been awhile since I posted, since I had to deal with finals and all. What I have here is a stock EA82T flywheel from my car and a lightened XT6 flywheel which I was planning to install on my EA82T. I found that the flywheel timing marks line right up, but the cam timing marks (the three marks which are used to put the timing belt on) don't. Now what? I thought that all of the xt6 timing marks and the EA82Ts' were supposed to line up perfectly. Why would the location of these three timing marks be different if the ER27 is supposed to be the same as the EA82 with the addition of two more cylinders? What would happen if I set the timing belt using the three marks on the XT6 flywheel as opposed to the stock one?
Thanks for the quick replies,
-Mark
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Subaru OEM part number: 800910290
This is for a EA82(T) and I don't know if there is any difference for exhaust port studs between EA82(T) and EA81(T) Engines.
Loyale lacks power and chugs
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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What did you gap the spark plugs too? If it is not withing factory spec, than I would try that.
I had similar symptoms and gapping the spark plugs down to 0.043 or less helped it idle much better.