Marck
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Posts posted by Marck
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Just the original 2 studs on each side. These studs are centered in their holes and are perfectly perpendicular with the flange surface.
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I am still interested in genuine RX rear struts or equivalent. Keep me updated on this.
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I finally got to test fit my TWE header on the engine today. The engine is currently bolted to an engine stand. I turned the engine upside downside to make it easier. A friend and I tried to slip the header evenly onto the exhaust studs and it would just not slip on. The stud holes will not line up with the studs on one of the sides. Looks to be off by a centimeter. Anyway, to get it on I had to put the driver side of the pipe on about a quarter of the way onto the studs and then pull the 180 degree (turbo side) pipe really hard until it lined up with the studs. Then I had to pull some more to get the pipe to come all the way down to the gasket. So ya, it fits, but it fits really tight. Has anybody else had this problem installing a twe header? Is this the way its supposed to be? To pull it off, we had to count till three and pull up quicky. I was really worried it wasn't got to fit especially after I paid lots for the HPC Hypercoating.
BTW, I found that the bracket that supports the header and turbo assembly (the one that is bolted to the turbo side head) will still fit with the TWE header, if you bolt it to the bottom side of the turbo flange instead of the top side. At most you may need to round out the holes just a little. This is good news for those who are not good at fabbing up brackets like me.
Update: I was wrong about the bracket. You will still need to fab one up.
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ya, I don't mean the cam housing o-ring. I was talking about the one that is built into the head gasket. Thanks for the replies. I find it odd that we leave it dry. I have always coated o-rings in oil or use some sort of sealant. I know to put anaerobic sealant on the o-ring that goes between the cam case and the head.
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Just to confirm, we are talking about the rubber O-RING that goes in the head gasket and not the head gasket itself. Right?
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Should I put anything on the head gasket O-Ring? Like anerobic sealer or coat it with motor oil?
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I know where to get vacuum lines...I meant where do they run from...from where to the to the blow off. Sorry for the unclearness.
But thanks for all the info. I do have a 1987 Digi dash.
What usually goes bad with an alternator?
[HTi]Johnson
Get the vacuum from tha intake manifold. Look for an intake nipple or T it in with a hose that connects to the intake manifold.
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I had one bad timing belt tensioner, so I got a replacement. The spring was also over stretched and so I was expecting a new spring to come with the new tensioner. Well, it didn't. How critical is it that I replace the spring with another with the same damping constant? I guess what I am asking is can I just get one from the hardware store that has about the same dimensions?
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I am going to try the permatex aviation sealant in addition to the oem gasket on the throttle body and install the intake manifold gaskets dry.
Hey that aviation sealant says it is antifreeze resistant. Would it be a good idea to use the aviation sealant in addition to oem paper gaskets for the water pipe that is bolted to the intake manifold? or should I use the blue RTV sealant w/ oem gasket? I installed that gasket dry last time and ended up having a small leak a month later.
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I put my faith in OEM, but if you want to go the cheap route i think some gasket maker stuff, pure silicone, that says its made to go up to like 600 degrees F, it should work, having said that, here come the torches and pitchforks!!!!!!!!!
~Josh~
You misinterpreted my question. I meant what kind of sealant is needed in addition to the OEM gasket for the throttlebody? When I took the throttlebody off, it was really stuck on their like if it was superglued.
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What type of sealant ought to be used with the throttle body gasket if any at all?
Same question goes for the intake manifold gaskets?
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JWX wrote:
whats your VIN number? I'd put money on it being a 56B chassis.Dr. RX wrote:
And what is the VIN or your car?The VIN is JF2AG55BXHG806343. Therefore, it is not an RX!
Dr. RX or Corky, we talked about this when I first joined the board in 2002. I guess you don't remember, but I showed you the window sticker of my car and you already determined it not to be an RX but a very rare and maybe even special ordered GL.
Here is a link to where you can view the window sticker:
http://www.geocities.com/techperor/subaru/subaru5.htm
click on it for the larger version (warning its big).
If you look through that gallery, you will see how similar this car is to an RX! The only difference is that mine has Lake Blue (736) paint and no side or rear skirts.
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I too would also like to know as I am swap an XT spider intake on my GL and will be using the water pump timing marks with the standard (unmarked) crank pulley to set the ignition timing. I was thinking that I would mark the pulley at the 0 degree mark on the water pump timing marks when the #1 piston is at TDC. Is that correct?
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The RX has some things you'll never find on a GL like Dual Range AWD with locking center diff
Thats probably the best thing about the car, the rest is just like any other GL10. I believe the seats are unique as well, and every RX has a rear limited slip, some GL10's will if they were ordered with them as an option.They also have the body kit that no GL has.
-brian
Some of your statment is false! I have a GL 3 door with a Dual Range FT4WD with center locking diff. It also has the rear lsd, same RX (rally) suspension (dampers, springs, and sway bars), and even the same exact seats and interior! That said, my GL does not have the side or rear skirts.
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Okay, last crank pulley question, I promise. What are the five hemispheres carved into the front of the crank pulley for?
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I might suggest trying out a carb motor crank pulley and sprockets. Not only with they have the dowel pin you require, but the pulley is about 2 pounds lighter than the EA82T pulley. I believe there are some comparison pics in my gallery:D
I looked at your gallery. That is interesting that the turbo motor does not have a dowel pin and has a large notch (like mine) where the dowel pin ought to go while the carb motor's outer sprocket does not have that notch and has a dowel pin (looks like the inner sprocket with a dowel pin).
So maybe the turbo motors did not need the dowel pin? Why would the carb motor need it? So does it matter at all in which position the crank pulley is bolted on?
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I will be using the spider intake with the water pump timing mark bracket to set the timing. I will need to mark the crank pulley so I think it would be a good idea to install a dowel pin that way I know that the crank pulley is always bolted on the same postion. I don't want to have to remark the pulley everytime I pull that thing off. I can make or find something to use in place of the dowel pin. Does it matter in which hole or slot the dowel pin goes into on the outer sprocket? I don't know if the harmonic balancer/crank pulley needs to go on in a certain way?
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Nobody know's where to get a replacement dowel pin? Will I have to go to the dealer? or the parts store? or is this something I can get at a hardware store?
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The two screw driver method worked perfectly! Thank you. Once I got the outer one off, the inner one slid off without resistances. It seems that there is a rectangular piece of metal attached to the crankshaft to line up the two sprockets.
Now, I just got to figure out this dowel pin problem. Got any advice?
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Thanks for the reply. I figured there was prying involved, but wanted to be sure because I didn't want to mess anything up. I tried to do this before with a little force and it seems that my screwdriver wanted to bend. Time to step up to a bigger screw driver! I am going to go try this right now. Now, if anybody could give me some info about the dowel pin then that would be great.
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I believe I have a good set of mounts laying around for an 86 wagon with an Ea 82 .Send a P M if you need them and Ill go check.
Jude
I just need one good motor mount for the right side if you got it.
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3 days should have been plenty of time to let them cure. Maybe I should just not bother with it then and buy one new motor mount. Is there anybody who had good results making the homemade motor mounts?
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How do I remove the crankshaft sprockets? They are on their really tight. Any tricks?
Also, what do I do if the dowel pin is missing? Where can I get another one and which hole does it go in on the outer sprocket?
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I have some 3M window weld (poly urethane) and caulking gun here and my engine is sitting out in my driveway. I thought I would inspect the old motor mounts to see what I would find and possibly rebuild them with urethane.
One of the motor mounts still looks good, while the other came off in two pieces and looked like charcoal (it was involved in an engine fire back in 2002). I am using the following website for guidance:
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
My question is, should I remove the rest of the charcoaled rubber off before filling it with urethane? Also about the other good engine mount, do I leave it alone and reuse it or should I remove all or some of the rubber and refill with urethane? Would it be bad to have one side with a urethane mount and the other stock (made with softer rubber)?
My other options are to buy a new engine mount to replace the bad one and reuse the second good one or to buy two new engine mounts.
RX Rear Struts...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Is this for RX 3 door coupe or RX 4 door sedan?