bgambino

1--I have a 96 OB 2.5 dual OH cam. It has the piston style T belt tensioner with 2 bolts. My question is, why are the holes in the tensioner slotted??? Nothing tells me to back up to the engine framework b4 tightening bolts or pushing it it as far towards the T belt as it will go. Nothing in Haynes mentions this nor in Skips write-up 2--this is not related. the cam casings have the two 1/2 moon cut outs that the platics inserts are to be bonded into. Should I install these when I install the valve covers (at same time) or bond them in the day before (hold them in place with some tape maybe?) thanks guys Bill

Guys and girls.... I posted this previously...."Also...should I need to buy a part...Genuine subaru parts lists under "relay" in abs section...a relay valve and a relay motor...what are we talking about needing?" These parts are listed at $58.00 ea...not the $20 dealer part per Emily What am I missing....the humming sound is coming from the black part right next to what looks like a brake fluid minifold of sorts (aluminum) behind pass. headlight

eric...what did you mean by her "pulsing the brakes" (also explains why the abs light is on, because ur niece may have pulsed the brakes.)

Assuming I try the cleaning method....will I need to reset anything to make the ABS light go out? Also...should I need to buy a part...Genuine subaru parts lists under "relay" in abs section...a relay valve and a relay motor...what are we talking about needing? thanks

thanks nip and eric I did not look toocarefully but I am guessing that the relay is the black thing next to the aluminum looking manifold? Is cleaning it easy...safe to do? Anyone know an aprox price..local stealership vs mail order (first subaru pr other?

96 legacy 4 dr awd My nieces car...ABS light on last few days and this morning she tells me the battery is totally dead and that yesterday, after turning car off she could hear a buzzing kind of sound (key totally off) I jumped it...abs light on...I could hear this buzzing sound coming from the abs unit located in engine compartment on pass side behind headlite Turn engine off...key out..buzzing sound continues Any one know what's up and what needs fixing? thanks

Just looked it up and here is what is says: OVERHAUL gasket set, All Models - 2.5L, 1996-98 - 2.5L, 1996-98 1996 $347.43$0.00$254.32Engine - Overhaul gasket set

thanks all...and thanks for the phone number Mike I am thinking of putting it off till the warmer weather It is most definitely leaking

hey guys I have a 91 loyale 4 x 4 wagon with 1.8 non-turbo I have some gear oil leakage where the front axles enter the transmission What is the procedure to change these seals? How hard is it to do with the tranny IN the vehicle? Anyoone done it before? thanks

I would say so Most times, mine would cause the idiot lights to come on very dimly Of course, it's much easier if you had a volt gauge on the dash If you have a battery tester, monitor the fluid each day to see if you are losing batterty strength

I'm not sure if you are looking in the right place...are you looking at the back side of the engine? If so, that would be incorrect. Standing at the front of the engine, there should be an access port/hole covered by a plastic/rubber plate/plug. It will be on the passenger side (I believe) near the top of the engine close to where it mates with transmission. It is thru this hole that you will have to attach the drive plate to the torque converter. You rotate the engine by hand to line it up I liked the loyale rubber plug better...it was plain rubber and came out easier...those engines were sooo much easier to work on

I would get the whole set...I am currently assembling my 96 DOHC 2.5. Had head gasket problem.....My gasket set was 250.00....why is yours 183? (mine was mail order from genuine subaru parts.com) I spent about 900 in parts...got all new pulleys which are not cheap (this drove up my costs) as well as tensioner, water pump, wires, you name it. Yes, for some reason they call it a baffle plate but the label on the bag calls it a separator plate. One weird thing about the new metal plate is that it is much thinner than the plastic one--but more importantly, the old one had chamfers at each bolt hole because the machine screws are flat heads (conical shape)....the new metal plate has NO chamfer. I did not realize this when I put anerobic sealant on it and slapped it on...i just used the chamfered flat head screws...seemed to tighten okay. But the anal person that I am went out this afternoon and bought plain hex head bolts with washers and replaced them. I did not see a gasket under the plastic plate and so I just used sealant under the new plate (anyone know if there is supposed to be one?)

Frag....my thought exactly...180 degree turn on the crank is wrong

Finally getting to assembling my 96 2.5 DOHC (head gasket job) Can anyone confirm if Haynes tightening sequence is the latest per Subaru? Here is what my manual says 1--all bolts to 22 FT #'s 2--all to 51 3--loosen all 180 degrees 4--loosen all another 10 degress 5--bolts 1 and 2 only...25 FT #'s 6--Bolts 3,4,5 & 6...132 INCH...! pounds 7--tighten all 90 degrees 8--tighten all another 90 degrees

Raveeen What did you mean when you said "but I did have a poor connection one time (easily fixed) that caused the dreaded TB." Can you explain what happened and what the solution was that you refer to? thanks

well, there's a couple of things. If you have owned it for quite some time, what work has been done recently---meaning, are you looking at other costly repairs soon? If the car was in great shape I would fix it being in the snowy notheast. Whether I would do it living in Oregon...not sure

No....I know a mold parting line (I'm in the rubber business)....this is a molded lip of sorts on the OD of the o-ring If I had access to a digi camera I would cut the o-ring and ake a close up and post it...maybe during the upcominig week

John...tell me you're joking with me....you're reasoning is scaring me... "my guess is that subaru regrets the 2.5 problems but they think we deresve them to a degree, we wanted a more powerful engine and they gave it to us. so we get what we asked for, but there is a trade off. " Subaru wasn't doing anything for US...they were doing what any "for-profit" company does....design and engineer more and better products to benefit themselves and their shareholders.... WE wanted a bigger engine so subaru did it for US???,,,they were doing it for their own pocketbooks.....they did a piss poor design and it's OUR fault...? So....we ask Doctors and scientists for something to prolong our lives...they come up with a new pill which gives us another 20 years,,,,but due to crappy engineering, within the first 4 years the person becomes a parapalegic......and this is OUR fault??? There's a thing called accountability....and this is becoming sadly lacking ithese days Even regarding personal actions and decisions.....and it seems so many people these days are too worried about political correctness to really call a spade a spade (no offense to you John...I just don't see any logic to your thinking)

you may be right...but I always thought an 0-ring was circular in cross section ...anything else would be a "gasket" ....I have worked for a rubber company for 25 years

I agree....while I love subarus and swear by them...the company really got away with murder as this HG issue never really got out in the public like perhaps it should have,,,,maybe the subsequent public pressure might have forced them to do more. look at it realisticaly....4 years go by and they come up with the mickey mouse conditioner fix???....and people still end up with problems later???...with these kind of actions (or non-actions in really fixing the root cause) subaru owes more to the public that the standard warranty. It was flawed engineering ,,,,and it went on far too long. Subaru definitely deserves more grief on this issue....think again...look how LONG this issue has been an issue. I am a true subaru loyalist....but for you guys defending saying 100-120K HG failures should be acceptable...I think you are being loyal to a fault

Well...went to stealer...he pulled an o-ring out of a larger package (individual o-ring was not in it's own bag.....it has a purplish color to it...seems to be the same diameter as the 4 funky looking -rongs that came with my engine gasket set....p/n is 806919050...? so....i figured I'd buy it to be safe...friggin thing was 6.61 with tax....crooks I still don't understand why the 4 o-rings in my set were not 0-rings in the true sense of the term (a had sort of molded lip on the ID)

Porcupine no P/n's with the gaskets in the kit Perhaps I will have to go to stealership and ask and then report back to group Thanks for all the input Bill

So one guy says use one of the 4 supplied O-rings and someone else says "don't" use them...... anyone else have any confirmation from a dealer which is correct??? thanks

Oh...one other thing I forgot to ask about this....the old o-ring definitely had some anerobic sealant on it.....is it recommended...advised...or not?

Thanks Shawn..!