
bgambino
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Everything posted by bgambino
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the motor mount studs---no, I constantly check them for clearance While I'm here...this the the first time i have put a clutch in with a car with a hydr clutch. I just unboted the actuator (or whatever it is called). I noticed that the plunger would push forward on its own due to apparent internal pressure. Is this bad? I taped it so it stayed compressed some. I shold not have to bleed this will I?
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replaced clutch, to bearing, pilot bearing, p plate....trying to get damn engine to slide onto the tranny shaft,,,i get to about a 1.25" space between eng housing and tranny housing...spent close to 2 hours and nothing yet.....i dont usually swear but I am going to town today!!! took engine back out...checked alignment with tool...still good this thing is KILLING me... I put a rope on the engine lift rather than a chain thinking maybe the engine would pivot easier.....i just want to scream,,haha any suggestions at all? i will be back at it at 9 AM tomorrow thanks 2003 impreza RS 2.5
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I FOUND THE PROBLEM....! touched the car in a while. Took it for a test drive,,,at end of driveway, upon entering roadway, went over driveway bump and heard a clunk sound. Drove and did some turns and was still acting as above. jacked it up and saw this,,,,,,is this what is called a sway bar link??? or stabilizer bar link? THIS is why it was steering funny what does something like this cost?? can i buy it at car quest? how to change it?? i suspect this sway bar is under tension....? on the other hand....is this really my problem? what has this part got to do with the sterring feeling weird?
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i am about to call the local junk yard to tow away a wreck i have had for years. it has some good engines and trannys i've been storing but never needed. the nicest thing in there is an 85 MPFI engine with 10,000 miles on it I was just wondering if i should take the heads off and try to sell them on ebay or something--i imagine they would fit a turbo model too any thoughts if this is worth doing aand their value?
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ok...so the 1 wire sender has been bad for awhile since the gauge has not been reading right for a year The t-stat is a newer OEM so that is fine--and as i said, i did an infared reading months ago and the water temp is fine/normal what does the PO115 indicate is wrong? Is this indicating the 2 wire sensor or what?
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okay...I have 2 things going on here (or maybe just one) 96 legacy 2.5 sedan For about a year, the temp gauge was only reading maybe 1/4 way up the scale. Infared shot of hoses shows actual temp is fine compared with my other soob. What sensor is this that is shot and how to identify it? (1 wire or 2) Too lazy to have swapped one yet Today the cel lite came on for the first time and scan tool says PO115 (temp sensor malfunction) Is this the same exact sensor or is it the other one? thanks in advance
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This is interesting...I have never heard of it http://www.pdmtsk.com/home.html I am replacing the clutch on a 2003 impreza RS ..it's got 159k...does not chatter...just slips a bit. So based on that, should I assume there is no "snout" wear to worry about (I am selling the car as soon as clutch is in) Anyone ever use one of these? PS...anyone have any extra car faxes? I would like to run one....thx
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So...the last clutch I put in was on an old style GL/Loyale...years ago Whats different about the hydraulic clutch? I have to do a 2003 impreza RS....ugh... So what parts do I need Is the installation procedure much different than the older models? disc, P plate, TO bearing, what else? Pilot bearing? When would you have the flywheel resurfaced or not? Oh...I remember there used to be an "0" stamped in on the flywheel? and a mark on the new pressure plate and somethinfg about keeping the marks 120 degrees apart for balance reasons??? Keep in mind that I am selling this as soon as it is done...so the less money spent the better....thus, whats a good kit at a low cost? Anyone recommend something they have used and where bought? Thanks gents!
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I inherited this car from my neice. Been sitting for 6 months. Ihave moved it around the driveway a few times and the power steering is doing something weird. When you rotate the steering wheel....there is a rythmic feel of easy-hard-easy-hard (like a rythmic resistance). This is with the car running and also up in the air with engine off What the heck? Of course my neice does not remember anything like this when she was driving it Now......it came off the road because she tapped the front into a poland springs water truck(the driver NEVER even felt it)...but before you get all excited that this had something to do with it....the hit was not bad...bumper barely touched...radiator support pushed back 3"--- grill cracked but in tact.....headlite plastic broke of course But no lower damage at all...so I dont see this being related Fluid level is fine... ?? Also...does anyone have any free car fax reports they are not using and can run one for me? thanks
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which is the intake side..the high pressure or low pressure side?
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I have a rebuilt compressor for my AC. Does anyone know the exact amount of compressor oil that is recommended? 93 loyale 1.8 spfi AND...does it matter whether I pour it into the high or low pressure port? thanks
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93 loyale 1.8 its been so long i forget how to do it was there some connector under the dash? what is the procedure thanks guys I appreciate it
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engine block interchangeability?
bgambino replied to bgambino's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
gary All I would want to do is swap blocks...but i want to make sure heads 93 heads and exhaust will bolt up to the 85 block...? -
for years i have been storing an 85 MPFI engine with 7,000 miles on it Will this block mate up if I wanted to use it in my 1993 loyale 1.8L SPFI engine (heads and exhaust mate up okay?) thanks guys
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Have to change my 98 outback wagon auto. tranny I would rather not pay a guy at work $200 to do it but I am apprehensive about tackling it from under the car..... Any who have done this from underneath without a lift....it would be nice to hear from you Disconnect bolts to engine...remove starter Remove 4 bolts from drive/flex plate unbolt the pitching stopper rod Unplug wiring harnesses remove trans coolant hoses Remove exhaust disconnect drive shaft Is disconnecting the linkages pretty straightforward? Drive the CV pins out I only have a regular heavy duty floor jack (no transmission jack (not even sure what one looks like)---so what about this? I assume you unbolt the cross member brace that is holding up the tranny when ready to move it out? ??Now...when moving tranny out and down...will the CV stubs slip right off the splined shaft?(dont' need to pivot the wheel out?) Another thing----I have ramps...will that bring the car high enough....should I jack up the rear so that the car is level? Seems like this would make the installion/mating a lot easier than if on an angle. what am I missing? thanks guys...!