joomanburning

99 EJ22 in a 5spd OBS

So what's the proper valve lash?

Just finished up removing/installing hub and bearing with the Harbor Freight hubtamer knockoff.. I can't believe I'm just now finding this tool. Must have for any Subie DIY'er. I bet it took less than 5 minutes, minus the cleanup, to pull the old outer race and press the new bearing and hub back in.

http://atdtools.com/PDF/ATD8625.pdf If anyone needs it, there are make specific diagrams in above PDF... might be helpful.

Wow! That's pretty crusty man. Nice work. Did you have any trouble with the lateral link bolt?? My bolt seized inside the rear-rearward lateral link bushing. I dropped the link out of the car and tried to get it out to no avail...it is STUCK, and I can't see any way to get it out without driving out the bushing along with it. So, I either have to replace the bushing, or replace the lateral link. Subaru is proud of these suckers- $30.50 for the bushing, $23 for the bolt and $6.50 for the nut/washer. They said they'd match the online $90 for the lateral link w/bushings. Trying to decide whether to go factory or with slightly beefier aftermarket Mevotech or similar.... decisions. Thanks for the pics, always a help.

Yes snap ring is out. I didn't think that the inner race would cause an issue, just wanted to be sure... Thanks first Subie wheel bearing.

So I have my hub out, and am left with the inner half (axle side) of the inner race stuck to the outer race, which is still in the knuckle. I've removed the axle side seals and tried to knock the half inner race out from the outside in, and it seems the bearings themselves are in a track. It doesn't want to come out. Should I forget about it and just hook up the puller to yank the outer race? I'm kind of stumped, as the new bearing doesn't seem to have a "track" on either side. Is this just a different style bearing? I've double checked, I have the right bearing.

The The guide plate goes right over the top of the crankshaft pulley. From what I have been able to find it helps keep the car from slipping timing if it rolls backwards on a hill in gear. This causes the entire drivetrain/engine assembly to rotate backwards and can cause slack to form in the timing belt. It then can obviously jump and do its damage. You don't necessarily have to have the little spacer tool, I'm sure somewhere you could find the actual clearance measurement and stack up toothpicks, or feeler gauges maybe to get the proper clearance, Clarence. Remember, don't get it too tight, it will destroy the belt from the backside.

Attached is my write up I created after replacing the Viscous Coupler in my 1999 Impreza OBS, 2.2L, 5MT, Phase 2 car. I only had Word to use, so there is more pages than I wanted. Apparently after 10 years the program has changed a little bit... Feel free to ask questions about anything. Subaru VC.pdf

Do all Tbelt idlers. If it's a 5spd make sure to set the crank pulley guide at the proper height. Gates makes a spacer tool for this exact thing, their kit is awesome, I highly recommend it. I just pulled 16 bent valves outta a SOHC EJ25 Forester I bought, water pump seized... and I also had to re-belt my 99 OBS because I was unaware my guide was too close to the crank pulley and it was shredding the backside of the belt. Timing is everything.

For the record, I don't mean anything derogatory by stating I don't have time. I've searched the forums, believe me. Just hadn't exactly found what I was looking for. Had a user on another forum rip my a** for implying I didn't have time. I was rather shocked.

I pulled the engine to get to these heads, just to see if I could do it. I've got the heads off of the block and disassembled... have read about this and have all the tools lying around to gasket-match/PNP, and I think I'm going to give it a shot. Any tips and pointers would be greatly appreciated, or links to similar threads. I wish I did, but I don't have the time to forum surf on the subject. In particular, what is your go to 1/4" bit??

Right, but you'd think it'd idle rough and give me consistent issue had I bent any valves. I'll check compression, change fuel filter this wknd and see what happens.

I might add that this is the first time I've owned the car in the cold.... And the night the belt broke was the first night it got cold here ... Again, no issues or CEL previous to the timing belt breaking- car ran like a top. Runs just the same after it's "warmed up "

Previous timing belt broke at idle on a cold night when warming up. I was right outside the car and there were no crazy noises. There was a quarter-inch strip of belt remaining intact all the way around with the teeth sheared off around the crank pulley, suggesting to me that the valvetrain simply stopped when the teeth sheared. All pulleys and idlers were intact and functional. I bought a timing belt put it on and it fired right up. I have not run a compression test yet for I didn't have a tester available to me, and the car was in a bad spot. No CEL, no codes thrown. I'm stumped because its fine above 3,500 rpm, or after it "warms up". It's like an old two stroke before it finds the power band. But then again SOMETIMES when I get into stop and go traffic AFTER a good freeway jaunt it'll start loading up again. Sometimes it runs just fine after such an event. At idle it purrs. When it's "warmed up" and running good it's super smooth. All of this suggests to me that I got lucky and didn't bend any valves... It makes power well and runs too good when it's "warmed up"... if valves were bent you'd think I'd get a consistent issue, all the time. Not something finicky-ish like this. Grr.

But again, it seems to go away after a long freeway jaunt..... Maybe vacuum?

Hi all, New to forum. I just changed the timing belt on my 99 OBS 5spd, and now I have weak power/surging power up until 3,500, then it screams. Especially on hills, or when I'm at low rpm trying to accelerate. If I run it 30 min at highway speeds it's gone, I can put it in 5th at 45 on a hill and it seems just fine. Am I one tooth off? It seems like cams are loading up, engine responds like a timing retarded SBC... Help!!

I was wrong. Forester S is SOHC 2.5l.

Forester S is '99

Sorry to be more specific my 99 is an 2.2l SOHC Impreza Outback Sport (OBS). Forester S is DOHC 2.5l.

I was recently offered a Foz 2.5s with bent valves for $250. How much can I swap between it and my 99 OBS? I'm thinking struts/wheels/brakes etc. Also, is there any possibility the tranny will ever work in my 5mt driven wagon? At any rate it's in good shape $250 is a steal. Thanks ????