nelstomlinson

I changed out the sender, cleaned the oil off the top of the engine as best I could, and took the dog for a ride. So far so good, that may have been the only leak. I got this one from the local Napa, I'll get a couple more coming via mail order. Thanks, all!

It's definitely motor oil. I looked closely at that sensor, and I can see oil bubbling out of it. It must be bad if my old eyes can see it. NAPA calls that an oil pressure switch, and they should get it in today or tomorrow. Oddly, NAPA specs say it's a 2-7psi switch. I guess that means it closes somewhere between 2 and 7PSI? or maybe closes at two, re-opens at 7? That seems WAY low. If I put a proper gauge there, what would it read?

No turbo, thank God. @montana tom, where's the oil pressure sender? Is that near the front, a little to the passenger side of the middle?

There are puddles of oil on top of the engine, particularly visible on the passenger side. This is the 2002 I put a new short block into about 5000 miles back. Anyone have any idea where that's coming from?

Update, the engine is in and everything worked. .. for a while. Now there's torque converter of transmission issues.

I finally got an easy one! The 2002 was missing intermittently, bad enough to affect driveability. We got under the hood and tried spraying propane from an unlit torch along the vacuum hoses, for just in case it had a vacuum leak. No luck with that, but I did hear a tick each time it missed. I started paying attention, and was able to see a spark jumping from one of the coil end plug wire boots to a rubber hose! The boots had gotten dirty, and the medium voltage had made a track to ground. I pulled each boot and wiped the outside of the boot with a rag moistened in WD40, and wiped the dirt and carbon off the coil where the boot plugs on. FIXED! New plug wires are on the way. On a side note, we tried sticking the unlit torch into the air intake and opening it as wide as it would go. Couldn't hear any change in the motor noise. That trick might have worked with carbureted engines, but it doesn't seem to work with this engine.

Thanks, moosens. We have a torque converter on the way, my son jumped the gun and ordered one. On to other projects for a bit until it arrives. We'll look up inside the trans when that gets here, and we drag the '95 back into the shop.

Which tensioner? We just did the timing belt on a '95 EJ22, and had to get a Helicoil set for M10x1.24 for a stripped bolt hole. I believe it was the bolt holding a pulley, not the one for the tensioner. Anyway, if you have the bolt, just carry it into the hardware store and find a nut that fits it, then you'll know the size. Get a Helicoil kit, fix the hole right, and it's better than new.

We did drain the pan and put in fresh ATF before we started driving it. Checked the level after the problem started and it still looks fresh, and about the right level on the dip stick. That's odd that it still looks fresh, the stuff we drained out was NOT fresh. I was expecting the 2/3 left in the torque converter and transmission to darken the fresh stuff.

I haven't had one of these transmissions apart before. What am I looking for exactly? And what am I spraying with?

Did hooking that line to the filtered air make the check engine light go out?

'95 Legacy, automatic transmission, high miles. It was running fine, then this problem suddenly started. It takes a long time to shift into gear, 5+ seconds to go from neutral to either R or D. It responds properly to gentle acceleration, but when the engine gets above 2000 RPM, the torque converter suddenly starts slipping. Can't give it enough throttle to get above about 20mph. We're hearing a buzzing noise at idle that wasn't there before, too. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on?

Imdew, sounds like you're just grabbing filtered air from wherever, right?

So that's for EGR? That means I can just plug the hole and be happy, right?

Apparently we can't insert images from Google Drive.

What is this thing on the back of the intake manifold? It's a '95 Legacy wagon with automatic. We're trying to swap in an engine from a '96 Legacy with a manual, and it doesn't have this excrescence on the manifold or the hole in the head for that copper pipe to thread into. We're going to swap the '95 manifold onto the running '96 engine, but there is no way we can install that copper pipe onto the '96 head. So, what is this, and can the '95 with AT work without it? can we just put a plug in that thing where the copper pipe goes, and live without it? The thread where I'm documenting the swap is here: Had to delete the picture there to make room for this one.

It seems we can only attach 438kB of files total for the whole thread? that means one picture per thread!

Yanked the '96 engine out. Lots of crusty oil on it, can't see where it was coming from. Pulled a valve cover, the gasket looks peachy, but we'll put in a new gasket anyway. The inside looks nice and clean, no signs of crud. Notice that keeper bolted onto the back side of the head. It's not on the back of the other head, no keeper thingy there. We've pulled the flywheel off, this is the subie that was breaking flex disks every few hundred miles. We'll put the flex disk from the '95 on and hope for the best. Photo of the valves.

We put a new belt, sprockets, water pump and so on onto the '95 right after we towed it home, and toward the end noticed that the keyway on the crank nose was damaged, and the crank sprocket had been jb welded in place. We think it was glued on a little bit out of time, and the engine won't start. Gave it a whiff of starting fluid and one cylinder fired while we cranked...looks like this engine is done. We'll pull the engine from the '96 this week, probably, and swap over the new belt, etc and the flex plate from the '95. The timing kit is the same for both engines, per the kit instructions. You say to swap the intake? Why is that?

We have a '95 Legacy with automatic transmission and a damaged engine, and a '96 with a strong engine and problems with the manual transmission. The '95 has a great body and it makes sense to swap the engine over to it. Obviously we need to replace the flywheel with the '95's flex plate. Will that mess up the engine balance? What other problems are we going to have?

Yes. It's been too long, I can't remember the numbers in the manual or which of the three it was, but it was indeed one of those three connectors.

So far it's parked in a field, because he thinks it's too hard. It really doesn't look any harder than a timing belt, just a couple more steps. I'll see if he wants to open it up. If he does, it'll almost surely need a timing belt, etc.

A friend has a '99 with a replacement engine from Japan. He believes it needs a new oil pump. He's quite sure that this engine requires different parts than the original did, but "engine from Japan" is all the info he has. What am I looking for to identify that engine, and how do I search for parts to help him out?

And it's running. It turns out that there isn't a little square mark on the front of the crank cog, instead there's a little line on the tone ring in the back. _THAT'S_ what has to be lined up with the witness mark on the engine and with the line on the belt. The last one I did was the '02, and it did have that square mark.

I don't think we've ever done a Subie timing belt in just once, we have to do and redo every time.