sparkyboy

When I use the ej starter on mine, the starter gear gets stuck on the flywheel. So the starter will keep spinning even with the key in run. I dunno exactly why, but I haven’t had an issue with the ea starter. Hope you fix her soon is this your first ej swap? If not you already know then, first thing is to mat the gas pedal and sidestep. Taking off in 4hi in the rain is a real treat in an L body with the double deuce, she’ll smash a bmw 325 ix haha!

Sorry to hear about your luck man. Fn dirtbags she’s a beauty too There’s a star in Pleiades that we can’t see that watches your sh!t when punks wanna steal. That’s what I said last time and dude got his car back a few days later. This is the only time you’ll hear me say this, but I hope she doesn’t have the ej. Only fools tryna joyride would steal an L body there’s no way you can outrun the cops and for certain the owner can spot her a mile away, all boxy and pretty among the current sea of capsules. If they have any sense they would know that right away. Plus the 4lo will get you far enough into the mountains for easy disposal of such garbage is what you should let them know if you ever get the chance.

Welcome Grennick! Your initial impression was spot on, the Subaru community is indeed a good one, all the stereotypes for roo drivers are positive, from the broke college kid with the $500 Craigslist special, your everyday gas sipping family driver (dog driving of course) or the obnoxious loud exhaust and turbo of the wrx boy racers, Subaru guys are always chill dudes, internet included! Usmb is a great forum, all the info you could ever need on the best of the hippie haulers. These are good cars because lots of fun and cool and sometimes crazy things can be done to them and they are designed in a way so that a guy like myself, who is heavy on the ambition but a little light on the technical and equipment side, and super lightweight on the wallet side of things can still happily wrench on and maintain a super reliable ride. Plus cops ignore Subarus, even if you drive em like you stolded em (highly recommended!)

Subaru brats are such an odd thing, they are often bought as toys for a beast off road build and can be had for just a few hundo from someone too light in their sube game, but some of the hard to find brat only parts like the jump seats and bed trim are worth a mint. At least those have the ea81 engine which was a good engine so someone makes most of the parts somewhere. The not as good ea82 has a few parts noone makes such as the oil pump, which pretty much sucks but the consensus seems to be that those engines are not worth keeping on the road. Luckily, (sorta) subaru had to sell out a bit in the 90s to general motors but one of the best things about gm is that if they invest in a car company they'll see to it that parts for that car grow on trees, sube built only about a billion ej22s and that wonderful engine basically drops right into earlier bodies. So, if I may, is this 79 a barn find that's been buried for decades and is still pristine? Or is she in the 300,000 mile club and rusting to pieces? How much do they want? Is a full frame off resto in your plans? Or beat her till she asssplodes, ej swap and keep thrashing on a huge lift with chevy six lugs? The funniest thing about these cars is that a perfect 79 brat sold for a relative huge pile of cash, over $45,000 at barrett-Jackson about a year ago, and set the precedent for dudes to start treating old brats more like old muscle cars which is a mixed bag of cool.

The "computer" on carby gls are really just a fuel pump controller for priming before starting, and stopping the fuel flow if the engine stalls or in an accident. It's 6 pins under the dash and like General Disorder stated has nothingto do with the ignition. With your loyale you should be able to get whatever function you need from the ecu harness and hardwire to the proper circuit on the fuse box or to a switch or relay. Dunno if the turbo disty is different which is pathetic cause I have an ea82t. I don't think there is any major diff b/w turbo and n/a distributors. It's easily bypassed and if you need another disty, I have a handful of those somewhere. I understand that the module is the only important and hard to find part of the ignition on those electronic carburetor/single point f.i. years.

Nice find man! She's a beauty alright, and just on the side of 300,000 miles? Oh she's been babied her whole life, are you the second owner? Haha You found those wheels at the junkyard? You bastard! Those are the 85 premiers. And probably worth $500 or so if you can find someone with an L body that's just gotta have em. Do you have all the center caps? I have a set too and have had lots of compliments and offers to trade. Good luck finding an 85 sube driver with $500 80s factory alloys are a rare sight, score! Anyway it's a bit difficult to really put a value on vintage subarus, even the rare turbo ones like gl 10 or rx. Little aftermarket support and the underpowered grocery getter reputation has resulted in these cars, particularly the wagons as being considered anything but collectible. The guys restoring them do it because they love the car, not for an investment. The value of early subarus hasn't seemed to bottom out quite yet, but there are signs of these going up, the brat seems to be our ray of hope for these cars being worth more than their original price someday. The 2nd gens have a great engine but based on my observations of the local market, original equipment and mileage is nearly inconsequential. In fact for 3rd Gen wagons an ej swap will definitely add value. So...if you were to try and sell yours in a hippie town like boulder, where 1 of 3 cars are subarus it seems like, $3500 would be a good starting point, maybe $4000 with the premiers. Considering a clean loyale with push button 4wd can get around 2k here right after the first snowstorm of the year lol. In texas? Probably can't sell her there, no snow and too slow for the hiway. For some incredibly wacky reason the fwd seems to command a $3-500 premium in asking price. Now no more goofing around and do what everyone here is already thinking...turbo traction clone time! If you need help cutting off the roof let me know, but finding or fabricating the high roof is up to you! Haha Cheers man, and enjoy the slowest of the jaw dropping cars of the 80s. She'll be a hit at car shows.

@1 Lucky Texan If you know, or can find out where the clear bra was installed you can maybe finagle your way into a new one...just tell the guys that did the install that x number of years ago (do a little research and find out if the shop opened after your wrx was 9 or 10 years younger, so you don't claim they installed before they existed haha) you sent your ex girlfriend or buddy or step child there to have the bra installed and you can't recall if they paid with their credit card, yours, or cash. If they're halfway cool then they should at least remove your old one for free. The 3m bras we used too, but it's only commercialy available so any warranty replacements we would inform 3m and they would discount the next order. I am unaware of any private parties getting a replacement from them. If they tell you to get lost, grab about 10 or 15 plastic razor blades and a handle, and a heat gun will get that thing off with about an hour of work. You'll probably also need a solvent for the adhesive residue, wd40 is a safe bet, but any stubborn gunk will come off with goof off or goo gone or that super expensive 3m adhesive remover. It's actually only $35 a can, but a little can of goof off is like $10 at home depot. So just expensive in comparison. Then some agreesive rubbing compound for the oxidized clear coat or for an extreme case, 1500 grit sandpaper and wet sand with soapy water or spray wax should have you set up nicely. There is actually an ideal situation for you in boulder, the shop I worked at (I did super sweet stereos!) changed ownership about a year ago, so they dunno, they'll probably hook you up just to avoid any bad reviews lol! Us sube guys can get away with such minor dishonesty cause we generally build lots of good karma with the car gods by pulling a 2wd truck outta the snow, pushing a kids dead datsun outta traffic, or my favorite way to gain favor with plieades, seeing a bum with a sign while I happen to be puff puffing so I'll pass to him. Makes their day every time! Haha! It's funny this subject has been brought up, I got the job by randomly noticing, and complimenting their very first shop car, an 88 gl when I was walking my dog. I was just buttoning up my ej swap on my 86 gl at the time, 3 years ago. They gave me that car free after 14 years of service with them, 4 with a bad head gasket and I am starting the ej swap on that car tonight.

I used to work at a place that installed clear bras in boulder, Co which has tons of subarus of nearly all vintages and styles and very few would come in for clear bras. It was mostly the guys with a newer audi or BMW who wanted the clear bras because they planned on keeping the car for about a decade then they can remove the bra in case they decided to sell. I personally don't think that a clear bra is worth the money and effort to maintain (should use polish and wax just like on the paint, but no rubbing compound) unless you plan on lowering your car and driving aggressively in the city and storing the car out of the sun mostly. If anything is neglected then you'll see the line become more and more apparent until you remove it and use rubbing compound or wet sand to blend the fresh paint under the bra with the rest. And if a hole gets poked in it don't lolly gag, it has to come off. Moisture gets trapped and you know the rest. On the other hand, your car is basically brand new, and a clear bra is cheap $125 or so with a 10 year warranty was our deal. A freshly purchased car should receive at least $500 or $1000 worth of upgrades to suit you. If you don't need window tint or a set of snow tires spend a little on the stereo and the clear bra. And have fun please drive her silly in the snow and go camping often

Any chance on simply bending that bastard back into shape? I need to step my game up and start fabbing up nla pieces such as those. There is a guy here that did the five lug swap with a mismash of early forester and legacy parts, I need to find the write up he did because that is one option for you if you would want to do all that work. Might as well open the can of worms completely and grab a front posi! But then you'll want more horsepower... Cheers man, good luck with the repair and I'll keep an eye out for L bodies in the junkyard.

Neat! I have the factory ea82 radiator on my swapped wagon with some cheapo no name fan on the outside. I found the fan at the junkyard in a first gen legacy. As I was finally finishing the ej install 3 years ago, (took me 8 months!) I ordered a piece very similar to that one, but made of silicone. then two pieces of flexy hose with the spring inside and some beating and coercing and my coolant circuit may be ugly, but she stays cool enough! in fact I didn't change a thing on her, same pieces from about 20,000 miles ago. I was reading an old hot rod magazine (2005) and a new part for $6 was a strip of metal with a spring that goes around the outside of a hose...you bend and trim as needed. genius! but i never seen this in real life however.

Factory two tone on my 85 xt! @YnotDIY I will be painting mine hopefully in the fall, i would love to see a write up or at least the results and what paint you used. Im keeping her factory color, what's your plan?

Sorry about having to let her go man, she's a beauty. Just like mine, same interior and all. Give us some more info on the other projects, those must be extra cool! She'll have a good home, for about 1/10th of the work to dismantle, find a place for, and deal with people you can replace the gasket and ask for $2000! If you were selling from CO at least, I've seen a super clean, grandma fresh loyale asking for $2500! I would think maybe $1800 at least is what the sellers got. Cheers man, sell her to some kid with dreams of ej swaps and huge tires.

Nice ride! These subarus have two common grounds from the factory, the left and right side have one ground each. As a result, you can use the stereo level hookups on your amp, and use the two leftover grounds from the aftermarket deck, then tap the front or rear positive signals for high level inputs. The advantage here is you don't need your rca inputs so the deck will fit nicely, as well as having the option to combine the common grounds after the amp to properly use a balanced audio subwoofer. Make sure your deck had the option of reversing the phase on the dub. I love jvc for this. And have fun! I'll post another thread on the common ground issue cause it's hard to grasp at first Cheers boys!

Correct me if I am wrong here boys, but didn't subaru use Carter carbs before they used Hitachi? Or maybe it was a regional or engine size matter, but I seem to recall a discussion on how the intakes are different. Won't the vintage weber 32/36 or modern redline carb fit an ea82 manifold with no mods/adapters? Anyway @Bratmobile when you get new weber, you should also get a jet kit to adjust for your engines operating conditions, as well as altitude and various levels of manifold vaccum. Since it's likely that you will have to disassemble the carb to change jets to fine tune your old girl, I would like to suggest that you explore the option of finding a vintage one and getting a rebuild kit! Loads more fun for probably less money. I have an ea82 manifold I'll sell you for junkyard price if you want, I need to get rid of some things and make some space Again fellas, correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't edelbrock purchase Carter in the 90s and use their avs (?) design after Carter and weber merged? So these new weber are really edelbrocks, which is probably a mixed bag of pros and cons when compared to a vintage Italian weber... Another neat piece of trivia: guess which manufacturer used some beast carter-weber carbs? Unfortunately they are mostly known for being cheaply made to a fault, but in reality paved the way for fast front drive cars via the scandanavian whip... Yugo! The carter/weber in that is nearly as large as the 2 bbl holley in 400 ci (6.6) lincolns from the 60s!

Those are cool! I have a white tool bag with green subaru logo! Also from the jy