Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

sparkyboy

Members
  • Posts

    522
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by sparkyboy

  1. This post fooled me, I got so exited by the title that I didn't look at the avatar, or really read it. Has anyone had a good experience with drilling the 4x140 on a blank wheel? Those primitive 14s are beautiful and would look great on my xt, $600 is a bit pricey I need to measure the center bore, if the factory hubcaps can fit on these I am definitely going to buy them I'm glad that someone is making nice 4x140 wheels, the ssr formula mesh are rather nice too, they really set this xt off. I think the wheel I would like most would be like the oem 8 spoke, but 14 or 15 inches If I had the resources to make such a wheel I would do it and make them for anyone who wanted to buy them, the sube spoke wheels are among the best looking 13s imho.
  2. Get the six hole chevy wheels and drill them to fit 4 x 140.
  3. That is actually probably the number one reason so many subes are in the junkyard. I often see the "runs" written on the windshield suggesting that it would have been a relatively easy and cheap fix. These cars, save for the vintage ones (which the common early 90s models are starting to fit into that category) are simply economy grocery getters which are meant to be thrown away or given to some kid who thrashes the poor thing to death. They are viewed and treated as such by even a lot of subaru fans. Despite being "cheap" they are thoughtfully, yet simply engineered that they are so easy to work on, which is what draws most of us to them. When the ecision is made to no longer keep a car varies from person to person, I'm the type to see how far I can get on the most minimal of maintenance. I don't know of many cars that you can have the engine out in 45 minutes without a cherry picker. Volkswagens maybe
  4. Nothing kills these engines, if you have a phase one. My two ej22s (92 and 95) have nearly 300 k miles on them and have been well cared for. The 92 is currently in my 86 GL and my 95 will soon be going into my 85 xt. I have overheated these engines terribly by accident a couple of times. Once off roading (the 95 ej22 was in my GL at the time) and I forgot to turn my fans on and most of my coolant boiled off. I filled her with river water because it was a spur of the moment trip, so I had no water or coolant, and once because the heater bypass hose split. (on my 92) When the heater bypass hose split the engine overheated so bad it started knocking, but I simply had no safe place to stop so I had no choice. I turned her off and coasted as much as possible, but I thought that engine was done for. I think the key to dealing with an overheated subaru engine is to cool it down gradually, by putting any kind of liquid in the cooling system and circulating it to get the engine back down to operating temp and then driving some to let her cool off as normal. As opposed to going from almost siezed temperature to cold right away. I have not had a leaky head gasket as of yet, I simply changed the oil and fixed the cooling system and drove on no problem, in fact, this happened on my 92 ej22 about 14,000 miles ago, and about 10,000 miles ago on my 95. I would imagine that the 2.5s are a bit less resistant to such treatment, I have noticed that these days, 90% of the subes in junkyards are 99-2004 2.5s The only 2.2s I see are in the less desireable second gen leggo body (95 and 96) people seem to be fixing the first gen (90-94) legacy bodies because I see quite a few of those driving on the street, one of the few early 90s cars still going reliably as a daily. A decently maintained non-interference 2.2 will go forever, I sold a 96 legacy two years ago with over 350,000 on the clock, original equipment. (i was the third owner, the original owner gave the car to his son) And I saw her kicking around town recently because she has these weird five point star wheels, and is easily recognizable. I sold her to a college student, so she is maybe closer to 400,000 miles by now.
  5. If I recall, when my iacv needed cleaning there was no check engine light Anyway, be sure to let us know the results!
  6. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator or throttle position sensor cause an issue such as this? I know you said you cleaned everything, so i assume that the throttle body is clean. Maybe that slight miss at idle is an injector clogged or something, a faulty iacv will cause a surging like idle, but typically won't make the car idle lower than 750 or 800 rpm.
  7. Wow! Sweet ride man, I have an 85 xt that I plan on trying to slam and see how she does in autocross. Looks like you have had tons of fun with that car, a rotary swap is pretty dope.
  8. Super cool! I have a recently acquired 85 xt :-)
  9. It's pretty odd I went to start her up this morning and she was running fine. Then she started idling low and stalled. She started back up but after struggling to do so. Then ran rough for about a minute, then drove fine once again. So it does seem to be the fuel pump, still no check light or new codes. I'll look at the digi dash and see if i can spot the problem. She does run with the dash not working. The back lights up just no info is displayed at times. I'll try a new pump and look over some wiring, and get back to you guys Jono i have a spare efi dizzy that i can try, I'll have a look at the module as well.
  10. Yeah this is indeed a strange one The fuel injector ground is good, triple checked Will these cars start by hot wiring the switch? I'm thinking it may be the ignition switch itself causing some wackiness, although the fsm states that the control unit should be replaced. I do have a spare that I can try. This seems to be a pretty common thing for old xts I can take the fuel pump off my GL if/when she does this again. I did find some wiring going to the coil that needed to be taped I like these ea82t engines, they are pretty neat. How much longer until I put an ej22 in this car is up to her I guess but I want to either have the engine fail in an epic fashion that would leave me with some wall art, or just keep going until I can't resist any longer and sell the engine hopefully the latter of these theoretical situations. But parting ways with the factory engine for some boring reason like no spark or a bad ground is kinda lame. I'll get back to you guys cheers boys On the other hand...I do hear a rod knock on start up on occasion Anyone around CO want to buy a running ea82t? Haha
  11. I'll check for certain if that ground on the intake manifold is good Silly me that wire is black and white
  12. Update: just tried to start her and she started right up. Would a bad ground somewhere cause an intermittent issue such as this? I also looked for the brown and white wire on one of the connectors from the ecu according to the fsm, but don't happen to see it I also noticed that the digital dash just happens to never be working when she is acting up, in some case it turns itself on and off while the car is running. For the most part the dash works fine. Any ideas?
  13. Alright a short story I suppose I got my xt from another board member, she wasn't running 100% but came with some extra parts. I drove her home and did a tune up and tried another maf and got her running quite nice, although at times after accelerating hard she would stall as if not having enough fuel, but would sometimes continue to sputter and clear up. I suspected a fuel issue but it also seems electronic in nature... I drove her about 100 miles yesterday no problem I went to pull her around to do some body work today and she stalls after getting around the block, acting the same way she has before. Only this time she didn't start right back up as she used to I did a fuel pressure test and am getting 35 psi when the pump cycles so I assume no spark I will test real quick once I get a helper. I have always had code 12 from the ecu indicating starter switch so maybe that is what was failing and causing problems and could have just failed completely at this point? The timing belt looks good, The marks are 180* apart I will follow the procedure in the service manual, I see in the diagram there is an inhibitor switch, can that be bypassed? Is that for auto trans though? I have the five speed Any suggestions? I checked the ground at the intake manifold by the way, seems to be in order... I have been wanting something to do an ej22 swap, but I was having so much fun with the ea82t Help me get her running again boys! cheers
  14. Awesome! I guess always check the basics and spend time screwing around on you tube Kinda funny that nobody mentioned that here :-D
  15. Knock sensor? That seems to be a common issue after many miles and would cause that issue often with no check engine light. I am only familiar with the 90s 2.2 I am just assuming that they still use them in 2006 Can you floor it and she revs right past 4000?
  16. Hello gents I just bought a sweet 1985 xt turbo She runs great I did a compression check and got 100 psi for all four I cleaned the maf adjusted the timing by ear and she revs nice and hard (when she wants to...) the idle is nice but a tad high I still need to test the fuel pressure and use a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks I'll also check the alternator She does have a odd thing happening sometimes after accelerating hard she will try to continue running but will sputter with a loss of power and will eventually stall, but I can baby her to a safe spot where she will struggle to idle and stall. If she stalls while moving, the key nor bumping the clutch will get her to start again easily. I have found that disconnecting the maf and starting her will make her fire right up and idle nice, but can't rev her past 3,000 or so, seems normal. So I let her idle for a bit and turn her off to hook the maf back up and she will drive more or less normally. I think I am having the same problem as you are stewartkb this must be an xt thing because there is another thread somewhere It seems like I am just not getting enough fuel pressure, but at the same time makes me suspect an electrical issue. My digital dash sometimes comes on and off too, but no ecs light for me I have a factory service manual if anyone wants pics of the wiring diagram, I still have to read this, but I will let you know what I find out monkeying with mine Cheers man, these cars are fun as hell to drive, huh? Thanks for all the tips boys!
  17. Cool, I'll look into all of those options once i get everything else to my liking (a few little electrical things and try to hit the one big dent out) I'll get the vin number soon, but: She is light blue 5 speed, part time 4wd Sunroof Rust free (!) Save for a tiny bit in the front drivers side wheel well Originally equipped with air suspension, now has traditional struts and springs Oddly no hood scoop? I thought all of the turbo models had the scoop? I'll be showing her this weekend :-D
  18. I bought waggybrowns xt, and this silly car is pretty awesome I gave her a good looking over and she is a real sweetheart, 102,000 miles She runs great :-) I messed with the ea82 carby engine a little on my 86 GL but I used the first excuse I could to put an ej22 in and sold the ea to another sube guy. It was actually a gift for his kid who just got a GL wagon :-) Anyway who knows this car or engine? I understand that parts are getting hard to find now for the ea82, like good timing belt kits and what not As for the xt, I would love to slam her if I can do it for less than say, $500 but I cannot find any aftermarket parts whenever I search "1985 subaru xt lowering kit" it gives me a bunch of crap for the forester xt which makes me sad that sube used the xt name for that. Is there some obscure company making aftermarket stuff for the xt? Can I use impreza springs to lower this car, or something weird like springs meant for a honda or datsun or something? What is the easiest five lug swap? I am aware that some ford escort parts will just happen work on these subarus, like the disty and the v belt am I correct? Please feel free to offer any advice
  19. Ok cool Btw I seem to have fixed my issue. One of those little baby vacuum lines was leaking, and after that I adjusted the timing. I also found that my coil wire to the distributor was loose as well as the wire to the o2 sensor. I will drive her for a bit and see if any weirdness comes back, but I revved her to about 6k several times and she scoots nicely once the boost comes on haha! She feels almost as fast as my 86 GL with the ej22 swap and the xt will definitely out handle my GL Yes the xt is pretty odd overall, the ecu and check connectors are in the trunk. I have an ej22 ready, but I have to trim the wiring harness first. I want to have some fun with this ea82t though, this goofy thing makes me smile The japanese did some weird crap in the 80s :-)
  20. My light reads ecs sort of like check engine? I am looking through the service manual to see what that light means I am hopeful to find a solution soon I am the new proud owner of waggybrowns xt and mine seems to have the same problem. It does seem like she isn't getting enough fuel above 3000 rpm. She will die sporadically and that is the only time that ecs light was illuminated. It seems more to me like an electrical issue with a sensor or something. Jaysus have you been able to get your xt up to operating temp lately? My temp gauge dosen't work either. It's funny because once mine is warm, she runs fine, in fact i drove her about 30 miles to get her home and i was able to rev up to about 5,000 rpm smoothly. But when she is cold she would either start coughing and sputtering around 3,000 rpm, or rev up higher and then stall lifting off the throttle. Have you tried the check connectors in the trunk? I will try that tonight along with a fuel pressure test if i can.
  21. It might be worth it to remove the idle air control valve and spray everything with carb or brake cleaner while opening and closing the plastic valve with a screwdriver or your finger. Just be careful with the gasket or have a new one handy. Coolant flows through that valve so they can get pretty gunky after a while Typically it will make the idle jump from 750 rpm to about 1200, then settle back down repeatedly until the coolant warms up enough for that plastic valve to free up a bit. I imagine that if were really stuck, it would let in too much air and cause some bucking at lower rpm I understand that some guys can use sea foam to clean the iacv without removing it from the intake manifold, but I have never tried that approach.
  22. Balls! I guess never celebrate too early huh? Sorry, i should have mentioned that the knock sensor has to be installed in a certain orientation and has to drop down onto the engine block...let me look at mine and I'll tell you how mine looks. If you look close it's not perfectly flat iirc. Beyond that, i don't suspect the cam or crank sensor, those control spark and fuel injectors so you would know if one of those are bad because the car won't start. 1200 rpms is pretty low where the engine isn't making much power and that bucking could just be the drivetrain. However she ran great yesterday? Weird... Has the idle changed at all? The idle air control valve might be starting to get gunked up if this problem comes and goes depending on engine temp. She could just need a tune up at this point
  23. I retract my previous statements about the 2000 2.5rs being ugly I thought you guys had this horrendous thing And not this body style That is one of the best body styles for an sti swap The first gen legacy turbo would be my choice if I ever get a wrx or sti engine
  24. You are preaching to the choir man...speed costs money, how fast do ya wanna go? That old quip has probably been around as long as cars! Unfortunately my bmw is worth about half of your mild build so I guess I can put my 454 in my van... I have stubbornly opposed doing an LS swap in my Camaro simply because of the unique factor of having the inline six... If I were you guys I would sell the 2000 after putting the factory stuff back on, and try and find something a bit cooler to get your sons boost on with. Or drive her silly, you and your son will have fun screwing with these things. A couple of years ago I knew nothing about subarus or efi and just went all in with the ej swap and learned everything I needed to along the way A 2000 rs would look pretty nice all slammed and you guys can have fun smashing hondas and nissans I remember racing this old maxima with a v6 and five speed, those cars aren't exactly slow but I stayed ahead of him and he was like wtf?
×
×
  • Create New...