sparkyboy

If she won't run on combustible spray then you aren't getting spark or you may have to check to see if the timing belt is lined up. Or do a quick compression test, but that's kindof a pita too. But do keep eliminating electrical faults, a lack of spark and fuel injector action points to either the main relay or the ecu to me ay least.

Your ecu has a 2d sticker? Here is the pinout i am using. http://busaru.com/services/resources And a little trick i used to make sure i had the right pin was to use pin 15 and 16 as a reference. They are both red with a yellow stripe and are in the corner so you can count subsequent pins. There are empty spaces in the harness so make sure you are counting carefully. This pdf has a decent wiring diagram that i can read easily on my phone...i know that having the wire color helps a lot!

When everything is connected what is the reading at the battery? Could be that the battery is bad now and not taking a charge. It does sound like a faulty alternator though...someone correct me if i am wrong but the kind subes use have internal voltage regulators that will keep the voltage at around 14 volts with the engine spinning 750 rpm to whatever rpm you care to rev?

Sorry, here is how i have done it on a car with a faulty fuel pump: Seperate the top half and remove the filter if you want to try and add more spray to keep her running. Remove intake tube, open throttle and give a healthy amount of spray, 2 seconds maybe. Replace intake tube. Hop in hold the throttle to the floor and crank. She will run for maybe two seconds. You can add more spray to the front if you are quick enough but at idle a backfire is possible. These cars do idle without the maf, just not very well. This is just something i would do to verify that she does still run right and that it is indeed a fuel issue, not a timing issue.

Most of us know first hand how frustrating electrical problems can be, just keep at it man you'll figure it out. Make sure you take the intake tube off completely, and hold the throttle fully open when you try to start on the spray.

Pin 81 gets voltage only during cranking, so it sounds lile yours os functioning normally. The pins that control the injectors are: cylinder #1 = pin 2 #2 = pin1 #3 = pin 18 #4 = pin 17 They are supposed to receive 10-13 volts with key on engine off, and 1-14 volts running pin 71 and 72 are injector grounds pin 25, 69, 95, 96, 45, 46 and 70 are grounds 95 and 96 are the ecu grounds, so double check those Pins 15 and 16 are ignition on circuits, pin 42 is always hot Odd that you lost spark for a bit...have you just tried starting her on carb cleaner?

Welcome! This is indeed a fantastic forum. I also have an 86, ej22 swap and 2" lift. She's named baby lion :-)

Well damn, maybe it's a rare ecu failure. I'll dig out my spare if you need one.

I think this may work, try it for fun. Turn the key to on, let the pump prime, turn off and repeat. Dont hit the starter until you have primed a few times, i suggest 5 or more. You may have to turn the key to off for several seconds to get the pump to prime again, I'll bet you'll at least get a cough. Mine fires up with just a tap on start after she has ran a bit, even in sub zero. At least you can try something until your kid gets back hahaha!

You know what's funny, is that i may have some insight to what is going on with my ej22. The starter switch may not be getting a proper signal. I stuffed my ecu into the glovebox so i can check. At temps below 10*f she takes up to 10 tries on the starter, quick bursts of less than 2 seconds. When she starts she idles fine, but will stall immediately if you touch the gas. After about 30 seconds of idling i can pump the gas (being completely serious here) to get her to a steady 1500 rpm for another 30 seconds and she is perfect. Just like you my car starts very easily when even a little warm. My efi acts like a carb in extremely cold weather, i think we have the same problem, but i have my fuel pump wired to run all the time with the key in run, while you only have the little squirt of fuel for priming. Just for grins try short bursts on the key. Start in off and turn straight to start no more than 2 seconds at a time, try to get the pump to prime several times.

Starter switch is pin 81 on your ecu. If you don't get 12 volts (pinout says 8-14v) supply 12 volts to that pin using a power probe or another battery. I have my starter switch coming from the little spade connector on the starter, straight to the ecu. Not to be confused with ignition switch pin 79?

If it is the ignition switch couldn't you turn the switch to run and touch the starter solenoid with a screwdriver or piece of wire? I would think she would start right up. Then you can wire in a push button or switch and your car will be a lot harder to steal, I have had my 92 stolen once. Maybe if you have someone to help you can take a power probe and supply 12 volts at the harness and see if the noid light lights up.

That is a wacky problem indeed, is the main relay related to fuel injectors? You might be able to supply 12v at the ecu to see if the injector stays open. Unfortunately the 95 had a one year only ecu. 96 has the same connector, but pins for 12v and what not are in different locations.

Maybe try hardwiring the pump to another battery? On my sube i bypassed the ecu and just ran the wire from the pump relay directly to the pump, so it is on all the time with the switch in the on position.

Check out http://busaru.com/services/resources There are links to pdfs of various pinouts.

If you hardwire the main relay (brown one) amd it clicks on you should be getting spark. My harness was still hanging over the fender. I did this on my swap, and tested the fuel relay in the same manner. It required two batteries for me to use the starter. You have to supply 12 volts to both wires that are red/yellow stripe iirc. I actually held the relay between my teeth to feel it click on, because it's a little hard to hear. Make sure all four ground points are grounded, i just vice gripped them to the negative battery terminal.

Yeah i never bothered to wire up my ce light or hook up my diagnostic port to the ecu. These engins are easy enough to figure out without diagnostics. I thought the carby ej22 manifolds were aussie issue only! The only examples i have seen were there at least. Where the heck did sube send those? South America maybe? All I know about em is that people s**t themselves when one comes up for sale and they go for a mint. Hardcore off roaders love those, but I am more than happy with mpfi. I don't understand why sube would send you guys phase 2 ej22s with dual port heads wtf? I like your guys style in Oz.

That's really awesome man, you have taken fantastic care of her over the years Is ash the red wagon? She is the same color as my 86 gl, i call her the baby lion. She has the ej22 swap and a homemade 2" lift. I vote yes on the collectors plates!

Good to hear man, you'll be fine without the covers if you prefer or if they are all torn up, my drivers side one isn't quite right but it's no biggie. There is a fiat or mg or some old euro sports car that has exposed dohc belts from the factory. Of course keep the extreme off roading in the water to a minimum haha!

I actually have this same damn problem with my ej22 Might have something to do with the coolant temp sensor, but i just let her fight until she stops acting stupid and starts. She has started un -7 once acting like a total c**t, but after warming up starts easily. Just run her often, i find mine starts easily if she was driven the night before, or warmer than 15*

You won't regret doing the ej swap. I did one on my 86 and she gets it now. I went in knowing very little myself, i took my time over 8 months. Have a leisurely weekend drinking beer and trimming the wiring harness, took me about 8 hours total. The ej drops right into the third gen GLs :-) I have read in numbchuxs write up that you need stack another exhaust flange on some ea81s, maybe the exhaust fits if you lift the engine? I dunno... Phase 1 is dual port exhaust Phase 2 single port 90-96 are still pleniful, 95 and 96 have obd2. 96 is nicest because it's the only phase 1 with adjustable lifters instead of hlas There are carb setups, i imagine a separate carb for each bank is possible.

It's funny that people have done this install leaving one of all three idlers off This is why i love engines with timing gears :-D

I put the lower passenger side idler on last. That's how i did it on my 95 and it worked nicely for me. Timing belts can sometimes be a huge pain in the azz, there is always some wacky trick that makes it go easy. I just did my m20 belt on my e30 and there is an extra wacky trick, there is a normal bolt and a stud on the tensioner for the cover. If you switch those you can use a pry bar on the tensioner to get that last mm and the belt goes right on. If i recall, i used the arrows instead of the lines on the ej22 because the cam wants to rotate on the passenger side. I think haha At least you aren't screwing with a dohc :-)

Nice find man! Later Gls in good shape are worth around $1500 here believe it or not. Since you already know how to work on cars you will find that the engineering on these cars are very simple, hell you can remove the engine only getting under the car once to disconnect the exhaust, then everything else, including lower trans bolts can be reached over the fenders. The ea82 engines leave a little to be desired in the hp and torque department, but low gearing helps compensate, and the d/r trans means you have to be doing something crazy to get stuck. With good maintainance she'll go a long time, and if the engine suffers anything catastrophic you have a great platform for an ej22 swap. I have an 86 GL with the swap and a two inch lift and she is one of my favorite cars. Versatile and 36 mpg with a light foot on the highway. Keep it up on those chevys though, i grew up on a 77 camaro (first car, owned her for 22 years so far) 77 g10, and a 53 bel air, still have them all along with an e30 bmw that i recently have gotten into. Cheers man, happy subaruing! The wife will come around, chicks look good in those cars when you happen to see one once or twice a year haha

Here in the US the lawmakers are always trying to pass laws to hassle us old car owners. I have seen proposals to ban engine modifications (seriously, how can they ever put a stop to that) and laws against ūstoring old cars outside on private property. It's so goofy that there is a group of lobbyists that was formed out of necessity, the SEMA action network whose slogan is "fight unfair automotive laws" Old cars are cool, i wish people would quit blaming them for inaccurate things, like polluting more or being unsafe or whatever bs.