Mary32

I have an 02 outback LL Bean 6 Cylinder 3 liter, turbo charged. I have a misfire on 6 Cylinder. Which cylinder is 6?

Thank you:)

What year did Subaru start producing Outbacks with higher clearance? I like being able to get to my adventure, and so it would be nice to know what years to look at.

Thanks.

I recently bought a used 2002 Outback LLBean. The paint has what my mom cause the Crackle Affect. The paint has very even little cracks everywhere. It kind of looks like an OCD artist decided to put 1/4 inch long key scratches in every which direction, about 3 per square inch. I knew it was this way when I bought the thing- I mostly am curious as to why this happens? I have seen a few other LLBeans with this same paint crack pattern. Any ideas? Thanks!

2002 Subaru Impreza Outback. Alrighty-kinda embarrassing, but I we figured it out. Figured I would share the stupid mistake, in hopes someone else can learn from it. Somewhere in the process of having the heads resurfaced and the block tested the Strait Pin got damaged. So we filed it down so that the head would still slip on. This of course changes the torque specs, and so I still had leaks at the gasket. New pin was under 4$. Got it fixed now. Thanks-ya'll are jolly. This site had good help for strait pins. http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9611/what-to-do-with-damaged-alignment-dowels-in-block

Breaking news update. I spent forever driving around surface streets today, just to see what my car would do. I can sometimes hear either small bubbles, or small leaking sounds (not sure which). The amount of bubble sounds goes up directly proportionate to how far down the gas peddle is pushed.

Pretty sure that it is the after market- but I ain't pulling it out to check. Think it would make that big a difference? So during the weekend I took the old thermostat and cut it in half than put it in- bypassing the thermostat. I didn't have time to do much driving, but it will go for 20 min just fine. I bled the system, and it does keep getting bubbles- so there has to be a leak somewhere. It takes about 4 times as was normal, but it will eventually start to blow warm air. Unless, however, you go pretty fast it doesn't get real hot. Just decently warm. Was talking to the OReily fellow- he is pretty good at cars (coming from someone who really didn't know anything 3 months ago). He thinks that maybe since we had to change the passenger gasket twice it ruined it?

Thermostat is new

Youtube got smart for me and I learned more about using the blue fluid kit to check block leaks. My block comes off as clean, and if I test the exhaust it goes yellow. My machanist is awesome and reliable and tested for integrity in the engine and blocks and said it is fine. I don't know what this means. I had the head resurfaced by a machinist who owns the machine that Subaru dealers use. C and T auto in Orem Utah is great- just had to put a plug out there for him. I will check the radiator, that is a good idea. I don't use house water, but maybe the previous owner did. The radiator is after market, maybe that is a part of it (I don't think so cause it worked fine or 3 years, but who knows). Long after I got it I realized that it had been in a significant accident that was covered up, at the front drive bumper (Welding marks, aftermarket radiator, the frame is shifted 1/4 in, front drive break pads don't wear anything close to even, etc- I don't think this is a problem with the over heating though, because again, I have had it 3 yrs no probs). So the when it starts overheating is a more complicated question. Before I fixed anything I would drive, it would be jolly, the heat would be on cause it was winter, and then it would start to overheat. It would overheat within 3 minutes. When this first happened I could go 15 miles before it over heated. When I accepted this was a real problem (don't judge, I didn't know much about cars) I could go 1. So we had the heads resurfaced and replaced the gaskets. You could see the warpage on the driverside head (that one appears to be just fine now). I thought this would fix my life, but it didn't. Now my car does pretty well, but not good enough. Before we fixed the head gasket it bubbled, now it does not bubble in the overflow tank. I sat there and messaged the upper radiator hose with the car on for half an hour. I got one or two bubbles out. About the same time as the fans kicking on (Which never turn off btw) I started getting bubbles consistently. This happened around the time that my car starts to over heat. My heat used to be jolly, but since replacing the heads it will get pretty warm, but not real hot. It doesn't do as well as it used to. It does start kinda warm and get to rather warm like a typical car gets better heat after the engine warms up. It is hard to say weather or not it is losing coolant, I don't get to drive it all to far. Before we did the passenger head a second time there was definitely new coolant puddling on top of the engine block, but since we redid that head it hasn't comeback. I cant tell weather or not it is leaking out the bottom- my car has just seen way to much freaking fluid in the past 2 months. I am concerned that maybe we damaged that gasket, but it looked good to me when we redid it. I think I will take it to a mechanic- I just wanted to see if yall had any ideas that didn't cost more time and money.

My car as been leaking oil for a few years, just enough that I add a quart once a month. 2 months ago it started over heating. We went ahead ad redid the head gaskets and water pump (timing belt was good). We put the car back together and it is still overheating- nowhere as bad, but still not gonna cut it. There was some coolant spray on the passenger side of the block so we went ahead and replaced the radiator cap, thermostat, and re did the passenger head. We used the same gasket because things cost money, and I am poor. Got a wee bit better but it isn't there yet. The car does great till either you hit 80 mph, or you drive it for about 25 solid minutes, then the temperature rises, and over heats within about 3 minutes. The gasket test says my car is fine, but it said that the first time (we then took it to a mechanic and he said it was the gasket-and when we took it apart there was noticeable warpage). Any thoughts you have would be great.

Thanks for the info.

Yall are the best!

So I have a 2002 Impreza. The back half of the tranny is having issues so I put in the fuse that disengages the rear wheels in driving. Then my electrical engineer brother got clever and hooked up a switch in the cap the sets the fuse on and off for me. So the question is when using the fuse to go from AWD to FrontWD do I need to turn my car off, or is putting it in neutral enough? Thanks much!

And how hard it might be to fix.

Help a sister out. Looking at buying a 2008 Outback and I have concerns before I drop 7k on it. It is a manual and the gear selector wobbles while in gear, especially in 2nd. In the passenger seat you can feel it wobbling underneath your seat, in speed with any acceleration. Dealer thought it might be the trans axle? Any of you wonderful folks out there have guesses as to what it might be, how much parts would cost, and how big of a problem this may or may not be? Thanks, yalls be awesome.

Have you tried using gas to clean? It does wonders.

How long does a typical tranny last on an Outback? I am looking at 03's and newer do to the hg horrors. How do the Legacy Outabcks compare to normal Outbacks? Also, in shopping for a new subu I stumbled upon one, and I was hoping for some thoughts. Im in central utah and I found a 05 Legacy outback with a clean title. It is has a 2.5 l and the engine just had the valve cover gaskets, oil seals, exhaust gaskets, return houses, timing belt, head gaskets, and brake pads replaced. 190,000 miles. Asking 4,100. The inside and outside is in good shape. It seems like a good deal, but I worry that that all the overhaul implies something bad... Help me out? Oh yeah!? I am seeing lots of 05 outbacks on the market- coincidence, or carpocolyps?