firehawk618

DaveT, yes I have the SPFI fuel pump. At this point my only concern is that mating the 86 dash harness to the 88 SPFI harness will result in a car that starts! I can work out the details on CEL and any accessories that may not work after the fact. I guess when I dig into it again I will just do it the old fashioned way and start verifying power at the right pins of the ECU and various components under the hood if no-one has chimed in before then with the results of this type of swap. Worthwhile note: The car I got this all off of was perfectly straight. I have no idea why it had become a parts car...... Perhaps it quit running due to a bad distributor or igniter? We shall see! I do have a spare igniter but do not have a spare distributor.

Holy back from the dead batman! I'm pretty sure it has zero relation to the 4wd light but someone with EA81 experience will chime in. I know on my 1986 EA82 the "LOW" light can flicker on and off if the shifter's bouncing around too much. The low light is a simple button that the shift lever pushes on when it's in the low position and if the handle jiggles around the button goes on and off.

If you wanted to pull it and mail it to me I could clean up the solder joints. No guarantee this would fix it but it's worth a try.

I suppose since we're talking a very very small difference one could slot the 3 bolts on each timing gear and use that to correct it.

"subnz" hit it exactly right. If you don't want to fool around with fixing it you could just get in the habit of killing the car with the clutch then turn the key off. I mean, by all means you should fix it but being a 30 year old car I could see the hesitation in putting money into it. Checking the timing and adjusting the carb / installing correct idle jet isn't very expensive though. If you have heavy carbon build up there's a few things you can try but the right way is to pull the heads and clean the valves / piston tops.

I have an 86 GL wagon that came carbureted. I scored the whole harness off an 1988 Sedan that had SPFI. I took everything and fished it all back through the dash. It's actually pretty easy to get the whole thing out as a unit without cutting anything. I was quite surprised. After looking under the dash I thought there would be some cutting involved but nope, it all unplugs. My question is. I cannot find a COMPLETE wiring diagram for an 86 nor can I find a complete one for an 88. I have found the service manuals that are posted online but they only seem to show the whole engine wiring harness. They don't really show the dash etc etc. Has anyone done this exact swap? My concern is the big black and big white plug under the dash. I confirmed they both plug right in but will I need to move some pins around for the car to run? I don't care about the CEL *my car didn't come with one and things like that. I just want to confirm that by plugging this 88 harness directly into my 86 harness that the car will run. The reason I'm asking is after plugging everything in I wanted to do a quick test and sprayed some ether in the throttle body and cranked it over. I am not getting any spark. It was getting dark so I bagged it for the night and have done zero troubleshooting. I definitely have everything plugged in where it needs to go and all ground rings are fastened. My biggest question would be if anyone has done this complete swap and did it just plug right in. I have found the EA81 to SPFI conversion how to's but have not found a single one for EA82 carb to EA82 SPFI. Thanks for any input on this guys!

Best I can tell after looking at a schematic you will find that wire at pin 5 on the ECU. The other wire to that solenoid gets 12v+ anytime the key is on along with a bunch of other stuff that's all shared on the same 12v+ circuit.

Look at the wiring diagram. One wire goes from that solenoid straight to the ECU. Find that wire. Disconnect at the ECU. Disconnect at the solenoid. Set your VOM to ohms. Connect to both ends. Should be damned near zero ohms. If it's more than a couple ohms then you have found your problem and can proceed finding the open or high resistive joint and fixing it.

Did you make this harness? From your post it sounds like you may have bought a pre fabbed harness. Adding a little length as you did will do nothing to the resistance. There's minimal resistance on those short runs of wire. Absolutely nothing to be concerned about. I work on wires daily that can be as long as 30,000 feet and are only 22 gauge at best and as small as 26 gauge.

No.

Upon closer inspection is that the bottom of your intake? If so there's no way that's the source of the what appears to be coolant residue.

I have been reading through all kinds of posts on here and have found zero intake failures. What's leaking? Coolant? Vacuum? Exhaust?

Once you figure out how to remove the clock just google "cracked solder joint repair" There's dozens upon dozens of how to's available. It's not hard and you can get by with a cheap $15 dollar radio shack special. If you want to mail it to me I would go through and re-solder them all for you at no cost to you other than return postage. Should I feel blessed that the clock in my 86 seems to work just fine?

For your oil / temp gauge issue. To test simply turn the key on and ground each wire. Your gauge should peg out high with the wire grounded. If it doesn't you have a harness or cluster issue and need more troubleshooting.

I would check for near zero ohms from the other wire to the appropriate wire on your ECU with it disconnected from the ECU. That's all there is to it. A constant 12v+ on one wire and a switched 12v- to the other wire from the ECU.

I don't know exactly what carb you have but if it's vacuum secondary then it's pretty normal to not see any fuel when punching the throttle. It needs to be under a load for the secondaries to kick in. When I was dinking with the Hitachi that was on my car "86 GL Wagon" I could floor the throttle and as the rpm's got pretty high THEN i'd start seeing the secondaries kick in fuel. Spraying carb cleaner in the fuel inlet is likely to do nothing.

Reading your post I was ready to chime in with how much you're dreaming. After noticing you have been around a while I am now curious to see how she rips when you're done! Good luck with that project. It will be very unique when all is said and done!

I ditched two Hitachis. The original one has massive throttle shaft play which results in it being almost impossible to tune right. The second one I picked up wasn't quite as bad but also had shaft play. Went 32/36 and was happy until a FREE SPFI setup came along......pulling the carb setup off this evening!

I can't believe they crushed them so quickly. Or were they already there forever and just finally got crushed? Damn.

I just put a 32/36 on my car with the Toyota adapter like Loyale2.7 did then right after I did that I scored a complete free SPFI swap. I listed my carb setup for sale if you're interested. I'm taking it off my car this evening.

YEah I just saw this too. I'd have driven up there to buy them.....

I finally found a full schematic that I was able to trace the wires I had questioned above and have answered my own questions on those.

I do appreciate the link!

Couple of questions regarding the ECU that I'm using. I'm taking the extra wires off the connectors and there's a couple that I'd like some clarification on. Pin 10, 11 and 12. They're all listed as "Line End Cord Output" What are these? Pin 22 "car speed sensor" Does my cluster have a speed output that I can feed this wire or is it even necessary? What's the consequence of just not hooking it up? I don't care about CEL and codes. When I had my cluster apart recently to replace the faulty speedometer I saw nothing on the speedometer itself that would be able to feed this. The head was purely mechanical as far as I could see. Perhaps the ECU would make the idle "hang" at higher rpm's a bit if the car is still moving as lots of cars do for emissions? Pin 28 "Self Shutoff Signal" What is this? Pin 33 "49 State / Cal Identification" What is this? Thanks for any help folks!

Welp here's a little background and my goals. I recently picked up an 86' GL Wagon 4x4 D/R 5 speed for cheap. Considering it's 30 years old it's in pretty damned good shape! The paint is faded but all there. I'm sure a good buffing would bring it back to life if I wanted to. The interior is in pretty good shape. Drivers seat is a little flattened out but this is to be expected. The Hitachi that was on it was dead. I mean it was near impossible to drive. I was going to go through it and use it but upon close inspection I could see the throttle shaft was VERY loose. No saving this thing. I picked up a 2nd Hitachi from a guy parting his blown engine car out for cheap. Threw it on and it ran but still crap! Picked up a 32/36 + Toyota adapter and she lives! Fast forward a week and I came across a 1988 DL wagon and was told I could have whatever I wanted off it soooooo I pulled off the whole SPFI intake and related parts. Instead of pulling the whole harness I instead pulled the engine harness and cut off after the connectors that go into the dash. What a nightmare the whole thing would be to pull. All once piece it appears. I will instead just wire in the required components for the EFI to run. I don't care about CEL light / codes so I am not wiring up the EGR, EVAP etc etc. Just the throttle body, temp sensor, MAF sensor, distributor, coil and fuel pump. My ultimate goal is 4" lift, 235/75/15 wheels and possibly a welded rear differential. I will be hitting walker valley etc etc. Hauling garbage and big items is also on this car's to do list! Anyhow I'm looking forward to getting this all slapped in and running within the next couple weeks. I am also considering yanking the SPFI heads off that car to clean up and have ready for when I pull this engine and install a new clutch *it's weak*, seal up the engine etc etc. If anyone in the Seattle area is interested in a complete basically brand new 32/36 that's ready to bolt on let me know via email at fireahwk618@gmail.com I just paid $145 for the carb *manual choke*, $45 for the Toyota one piece adapter. I would let it go for $160 and YOU can come hear it run and go for a ride with me. I never hooked up the choke so it's a cold blooded girl but runs pretty good once it warms just a touch.