DagdaS

He's not advocating high speed driving, he's explaining that the EA82 series motors and trannies are good to go at highway speeds without destroying themselves. He just so happened to post the pic from the 5100RPM (106mph) run, so that folks didn't try to call BS on his statement. So, what I'm saying is, Relax Guy. I guess I'm lucky. I'm running the D/R 5-Speed out of an 86 Loyale, but it's attached to an EJ22. I can run out over Snoqualmie Pass, Manastash and Umptanum Ridges, White Pass, and elsewhere and still get 65-70mph in 5th. Sadly the original monster is an 80DL, so I have no tach. I just run her by ear and speedo. Was cooking along at 65 in 4th last night and didn't realize it until I'd run about 3 miles. Didn't hurt her a bit, just annoying.

Out in the toolies the other side of Snoq, but I'll keep my eyes peeled here. And I'll put the word out to some trucker buddies that are in and out of PoS and PoT, from out here, on the daily.

I upvoted ya there, Len Dawg! hehe

Not just the GLs. I have a loverly 80 DL that's had the EJ22 Heart Transplant. It is a beautiful thing. Some would possibly cringe at the thought of the BRZ's engine going into another Subaru, but I do not doubt that it can be done.

I seem to recall helping my dad punch old ones out, and put new ones in (in various things) using a piece of pipe that was a tiny bit smaller than the OD. Didn't have a press handy.

Not sure what trans you're running, may be similar to the one I have (though mine is out of an '86). I have the D/R, and it is a 4 position lever. Bottomed out (no downward play in handle) is FWD only. Up once is 4Hi. Up again is True Neutral/Towing. Up one last time (3rd time for those not counting) is 4Lo. From time to time she gets twitchy, whether out on one of the "Primitive Roads" we have out here, or my 1/4 mile long curvy, hilly driveway she decides she doesn't want to come out of 4WD, no matter which range. When that happens, I put in the clutch, put her in reverse, let out the clutch until she's just starting to move, then back to Neutral. She'll let herself be put back in FWD then.

I know the feels. I'm down here in the 'burg. We have yet to have any significant melt. The snow is almost to the tops of the wheel arches on the Comanche that's been parked all winter. And the bottoms of the doors on my lifted '80 DL are scraping when I get in and out. She doesn't like that, she ends up getting in where her tires don't quite reach with enough down pressure.

I'll have to get ahold of NWSubie and see what all was done when he did the swap (before I bought the monster). That'll be far cheaper than taking it to my mechanic buddy and having him figure it out. Once I know, I'll know what I need to do the job without turning my car into a smoking heap of scrap metal and burnt rubber. I'm wanting to do this so that it'll be pretty well permanent, unless I sell her (which'll Never happen), so I want to do it Right. I'll post pics and a little vid showing it working, when I eventually Do it.

The phrase was "Reasonably" cheap. I'm planning to buy the right kind of parts to do what I'm after. As to the toggle switch, I ain't gonna cry, I didn't do the swap myself, I bought it that way. It functions quite nicely and should frustrate someone at some point, especially if I move it to a less obvious spot. What I'd like to do is get a rocker for it, as that has a nice low profile, and will be more easily concealed. The whole idea is to get rid of the need for the key, as it will just fail again. The ignition cylinder has been replaced at least once, and is failing for the "second" time. I'm not gonna fight with it. Bypass is reasonably simple. Too many years jury rigging bypasses. "Oh, your sensor for your cooling fan has died, that's a $60 part, plus labor." Nope, that's why God made wire, toggles, and fuses. 35 minutes after getting back from the parts store I had a functional cooling fan that I just turned on whenever I felt like it. (previous vehicle)

I'd have to replace the cylinder and the ignition switch, both. You cannot get a cylinder for $15, that don't happen. Then to have someone go through and tweak the pins for My key after paying for it, uh uh. Not paying for a branded part anywhere. You can buy just a push button, wire, and fuse reasonably cheap. Push and hold the button until she catches, just as you would the key in the ignition, and Vroom, we go.

I'm hatching a plan. I think it's a Good plan. I'm pretty sure it'll save me money and a headache. I want to bypass my ignition switch. The reason is that it's very twitchy. It doesn't like turning if the key isn't in just the perfect spot, and you can remove the key without shutting down. She's a 1980 DL Wagon with an EJ22 swap, and there's already a switch installed to allow it to even start. The plan is to move that one to a very well hidden spot, turn the ignition key so that the wheel lock is disengaged, take the accessory wire and put it on a switch, and install a nice big friendly red button that just begs to be pushed. That way I'm not paying to have a New barrel put into the ignition, and I don't have to worry about the ignition failing. Just hop in, flip the two switches, push the button and roll. And few worries about someone stealing her, as the switch that even lets her crank is hidden. Any critiques, issues, suggestions, crazed ideas?

Went through and removed a good amount of rust, then hit it with the primer. Still a significant bit to do, but that's life.

My nifty 80 DL Wagon I scooped from one of the guys on here.

Gremlins Do love to cause issues. They also seem to love to drink my coffee when I'm not paying attention. I swear there was still a half cup left the last time I looked.

So, they're the blasted Staked In U-Joints. Mechanic has a used shaft with a shot front u-joint, so he's gonna swap the rear shaft with my rear shaft. Apparently, a significant part of the issue (root cause and so forth) was the rear diff has a downward angle, and when the beast was lifted, they left the spindle at stock height, meaning that the shafts have a pretty stiff down angle to the rear and front diffs. Add to that the fact that the whole assembly is a little short, and the mechanic says that's gonna cause problems later. But, there are always solutions. We're gonna drop the spindle down so that the shaft rides a hair straighter. This will also fix the length issue. When they finally bag it again (totally inevitable, unfortunately) he recommends a shop that can remove the staked u-joints, and replace them with the usual type. And, when I do that, I'll have him put in the greasable type.