DagdaS

He's not advocating high speed driving, he's explaining that the EA82 series motors and trannies are good to go at highway speeds without destroying themselves. He just so happened to post the pic from the 5100RPM (106mph) run, so that folks didn't try to call BS on his statement. So, what I'm saying is, Relax Guy. I guess I'm lucky. I'm running the D/R 5-Speed out of an 86 Loyale, but it's attached to an EJ22. I can run out over Snoqualmie Pass, Manastash and Umptanum Ridges, White Pass, and elsewhere and still get 65-70mph in 5th. Sadly the original monster is an 80DL, so I have no tach. I just run her by ear and speedo. Was cooking along at 65 in 4th last night and didn't realize it until I'd run about 3 miles. Didn't hurt her a bit, just annoying.

Out in the toolies the other side of Snoq, but I'll keep my eyes peeled here. And I'll put the word out to some trucker buddies that are in and out of PoS and PoT, from out here, on the daily.

I upvoted ya there, Len Dawg! hehe

Not just the GLs. I have a loverly 80 DL that's had the EJ22 Heart Transplant. It is a beautiful thing. Some would possibly cringe at the thought of the BRZ's engine going into another Subaru, but I do not doubt that it can be done.

I seem to recall helping my dad punch old ones out, and put new ones in (in various things) using a piece of pipe that was a tiny bit smaller than the OD. Didn't have a press handy.

Not sure what trans you're running, may be similar to the one I have (though mine is out of an '86). I have the D/R, and it is a 4 position lever. Bottomed out (no downward play in handle) is FWD only. Up once is 4Hi. Up again is True Neutral/Towing. Up one last time (3rd time for those not counting) is 4Lo. From time to time she gets twitchy, whether out on one of the "Primitive Roads" we have out here, or my 1/4 mile long curvy, hilly driveway she decides she doesn't want to come out of 4WD, no matter which range. When that happens, I put in the clutch, put her in reverse, let out the clutch until she's just starting to move, then back to Neutral. She'll let herself be put back in FWD then.

I know the feels. I'm down here in the 'burg. We have yet to have any significant melt. The snow is almost to the tops of the wheel arches on the Comanche that's been parked all winter. And the bottoms of the doors on my lifted '80 DL are scraping when I get in and out. She doesn't like that, she ends up getting in where her tires don't quite reach with enough down pressure.

I'll have to get ahold of NWSubie and see what all was done when he did the swap (before I bought the monster). That'll be far cheaper than taking it to my mechanic buddy and having him figure it out. Once I know, I'll know what I need to do the job without turning my car into a smoking heap of scrap metal and burnt rubber. I'm wanting to do this so that it'll be pretty well permanent, unless I sell her (which'll Never happen), so I want to do it Right. I'll post pics and a little vid showing it working, when I eventually Do it.

The phrase was "Reasonably" cheap. I'm planning to buy the right kind of parts to do what I'm after. As to the toggle switch, I ain't gonna cry, I didn't do the swap myself, I bought it that way. It functions quite nicely and should frustrate someone at some point, especially if I move it to a less obvious spot. What I'd like to do is get a rocker for it, as that has a nice low profile, and will be more easily concealed. The whole idea is to get rid of the need for the key, as it will just fail again. The ignition cylinder has been replaced at least once, and is failing for the "second" time. I'm not gonna fight with it. Bypass is reasonably simple. Too many years jury rigging bypasses. "Oh, your sensor for your cooling fan has died, that's a $60 part, plus labor." Nope, that's why God made wire, toggles, and fuses. 35 minutes after getting back from the parts store I had a functional cooling fan that I just turned on whenever I felt like it. (previous vehicle)

I'd have to replace the cylinder and the ignition switch, both. You cannot get a cylinder for $15, that don't happen. Then to have someone go through and tweak the pins for My key after paying for it, uh uh. Not paying for a branded part anywhere. You can buy just a push button, wire, and fuse reasonably cheap. Push and hold the button until she catches, just as you would the key in the ignition, and Vroom, we go.

I'm hatching a plan. I think it's a Good plan. I'm pretty sure it'll save me money and a headache. I want to bypass my ignition switch. The reason is that it's very twitchy. It doesn't like turning if the key isn't in just the perfect spot, and you can remove the key without shutting down. She's a 1980 DL Wagon with an EJ22 swap, and there's already a switch installed to allow it to even start. The plan is to move that one to a very well hidden spot, turn the ignition key so that the wheel lock is disengaged, take the accessory wire and put it on a switch, and install a nice big friendly red button that just begs to be pushed. That way I'm not paying to have a New barrel put into the ignition, and I don't have to worry about the ignition failing. Just hop in, flip the two switches, push the button and roll. And few worries about someone stealing her, as the switch that even lets her crank is hidden. Any critiques, issues, suggestions, crazed ideas?

Went through and removed a good amount of rust, then hit it with the primer. Still a significant bit to do, but that's life.

My nifty 80 DL Wagon I scooped from one of the guys on here.

Gremlins Do love to cause issues. They also seem to love to drink my coffee when I'm not paying attention. I swear there was still a half cup left the last time I looked.

So, they're the blasted Staked In U-Joints. Mechanic has a used shaft with a shot front u-joint, so he's gonna swap the rear shaft with my rear shaft. Apparently, a significant part of the issue (root cause and so forth) was the rear diff has a downward angle, and when the beast was lifted, they left the spindle at stock height, meaning that the shafts have a pretty stiff down angle to the rear and front diffs. Add to that the fact that the whole assembly is a little short, and the mechanic says that's gonna cause problems later. But, there are always solutions. We're gonna drop the spindle down so that the shaft rides a hair straighter. This will also fix the length issue. When they finally bag it again (totally inevitable, unfortunately) he recommends a shop that can remove the staked u-joints, and replace them with the usual type. And, when I do that, I'll have him put in the greasable type.

I like to go up to less accessible places, but don't really do any wheeling yet. She's more my get away buggy. I like the Primitive Roads, and the old, abandoned, or disused places. Badly patched, damaged, graveled, or unpaved, lots of curves and hills, and I'm happy.

So, the mad little monster, Tori, is having a bad week. On Monday I took her up on Reecer Creek Road, to just below the snow line. On the way back I was running low gears, and decided to put her in 4WD. When I recommenced she shuddered hard a couple of times, but then evened out and behaved. Likely my fault in some way. Wednesday and Thursday I ran several errands for my folks, getting carboys from the storage, running to get pickling spices and garlic bulbs from the store, getting the heater pan for the canning jars... just ran all over. The problem was that I was noticing more and more vibration coming from behind my position in the car. So, I took my dad out for a run on Friday evening, to get his expert diagnostic ears on it. He suggested I crawl under and have a look at the drive line, as it sounded very much like a U-Joint. The man is 73, he Knows. I crawled under today (we were busy after the ride) and started from the back, working forward. The CVs and Diff are 10-4, but the U-Joint at the Differential is going, specifically the bearings. Since I have no garage facilities, nor significant equipment sufficient to the job, I'll be taking her to my folks mechanic. He is reliable, and honest, and has his own little soob. Though, it's getting warm enough he'll probably just ride his bicycle most days. I wanna get the monster rolling again, ASAP, as I have a young lady I'm wanting to take out, and she's made appreciable noises when I've discussed Tori.

Not 100% sure myself, but I believe so. I have an EJ22 out of a 93 Legacy, with a Dual Range 5 speed out of an EA82 car. One would Think that, with a few mods, it could work.

She's a 1980 DL 1600 4WD, but she's been tweaked, ever so slightly, by NWSubie. She's running an EJ22 motor, but I don't believe he fiddled with the light controls. If I recall correctly, he did mention that he'd had the cluster out before. I may have to message him and check. I believe ya when ya say that shops charged a ton for diagnostics that weren't needed, and wanted to charge even more for other stuff that was unneeded. I drove a tow truck for a year and had to steer several customers away from certain shops that I Knew were prone to doing things that caused the customer to need to go in again and again. One, in particular, I picked up the vehicle of one of their own former mechanics, he told me stories that ensured I'd keep customers Far away from them. I'd already had suspicions about them, but he cinched it.

Ok, slight annoyance. So, I hopped into the monster tonight, to go get some chocolate milk down at the AMPM. I was Craving it, don't ask me why. I get her cranked and turned the light switch and NUFFIN'. The lights marking the light and wiper switches were on, the lights for the heater/fans came up, headlights came up, but no instrument lights. The Left Turn Indicator light has been acting up, not coming on, that kind of thing. But, now, the blasted instrument lights are Kaput. Any ideas, before I start pulling things apart and cursing under my breath?

JP147, you appear to have my Soob's Cousin. Tori (the Soob) is a 1980 DL. Yours appears to be almost same body type, but the GL. Main visual cue difference is that Tori has Round headlamps and your beastie has the squares. Very nice BTW. I'm gonna have to get pictures of Tori on this comp, so that I can post her in this thread.

And then you have folks like Me. I have a 1980 DL 1600/4WD body, but the motor is an EJ22 out of a 93 Legacy. That's backed by an dual range 5 speed out of an '84 EA82, and then a LSD rear end, and has had all 4 brakes swapped to discs. Add a 4" block lift (done Right, thanks to the previous owner NWSubie) and, needless to say, I am gonna have fun when something finally goes. But, I consider that to be a minor issue when I know that my HP and Torque have basically doubled, I'm capable of going anywhere I want, so long as she'll stay wheels down, and I can attach a light trailer and GTFO to anywhere JIC, or just go camping and have all my kit with me. I do feel your pain OP. But, keep in mind, you have a Glorious Soob.

Hmmmm, Bellingham isn't that far away from Me. I may have to see what I can finagle. Wonder if I can find a pretty to sit in my passenger seat and balance the monster better? I'll have to see what I can do. It's just a Modded '80 1600 Wagon, but it's a Soob.

May the stars shine on that HG fix and all go smoothly. And may your lady realize the glory that is Soob.

I'm Hoping to Add a few minor modifications of my own. Some Bull Bars, to keep from harming those sexy round headlamps. Either some custom 15" wheels drilled to the 4x14 pattern, or do the 6 lug mod on the discs. Either way I should be able to fit something a teensy bit meatier on her. Need Something with a bigger contact patch. She loves to spin up. Go figure, that's what happens when you double the torque.