kamesama980

I'm right there with you modding cars to be more what you like and avoiding dealerships. I didn't know your locksmith worked for free. Though you and I may mod to our hearts content remember that noobs through the ages will search (ok, that might be wishful thinking) and find this thread and if it consists of "my locksmith friend did for free to a car I can fix, replace, or afford to lose" it won't be much help. This is the commercial break. The regularly scheduled program is on intermission until you hear back from the locksmith.

I wouldn't say I like it, just that I've never had one fail and I keep track of my keys so it's operation is transparent. Unless it's failed, I see it as spend money at dealership to keep the car working (getting an extra key) as intended vs spend money elsewhere to make it work not as intended which I've seen issues down the line several times without counting theft, hence my inquiring what the reason for removal is.

Is this a loose nut or a captive nut? If it's a loose nut, replace it. if it's captive you could tap it but keep in mind it'll be much weaker than before.

I had similar drama on my Baja: axle was seized in the hub, bent my 20-ton press. Part of the process involved removing the axle from the joint (still in the hub). Solution was 25 minutes with a BFH, a mangled joint, an a sore arm from swinging. There was a spring clip but the whole assembly had been together so long it was stuck on good. Seems to be a thing with the Baja/Legacy/Outback front suspension. I also had to cut, drill, and burn out the ball joint and pinch bolt. The easiest part was replacing the bearing (I usually HATE pressed-on wheel bearings but due to the amount of pressure and heat that had been applied it was kinda grind-ey by the time the other parts were apart).

www.chipkeys.com and www.programyourremote.com are my go-to guide. That being said, neither has info for your year, make, and model so I can't offer any verifiable advise. Yes, there has to be a way to add additional keys to a car. Usually it's open as long as you have 1 or 2 active keys (along the lines of telling the car "I have 2 good keys to prove I'm the owner and I'd like to ad another"), sometimes it requires a dealership scanner. Keep in mind that it's a major component of the anti-theft system, more than just one variable in the PCM and makes it about impossible to hot-wire a car like you see in the movies. They're generally very reliable but getting additional keys can be inconvenient. There's generally a coil around the key switch in the column, the key needs to be in or VERY close to work. There are aftermarket bypasses (like the last line in the OPs post) generally marketed for remote start systems, usually it involves relocating the antenna to a box with an un-cut chip-key in it full time stuck under the dash so the engine will start without a key in the ignition. Unfortunately that also basically makes it about as secure as prior to having the RFID keys so someone could come and hot-wire it because they RFID component is already in the car. Why do you want to make the change?

I will say that if you've coming from a bigger truck, it's a bit annoying at first since you can't fit 4' objects in the bed lengthwise or widthwise with the passthrough closed and gate up. You can't overload it as much as a solid-axle body-on-frame truck either. (and lord knows I did that a few times with past trucks wheras I just made an extra trip with the Baja). That being said, you get used to it pretty quick and how to work around it and it's much more fun to drive. As for power output, the NAs won't win races but they will keep up with traffic no problem. It's peppy due to the gearing but it isn't fast, you're lugging around 3700lbs + driver. It handles better than any truck not heavily worked over. It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. The turbos are better but you're getting a detuned/truck tuned version that's more for driveable power rather than peak numbers. I haven't driven one but I've heard they're about on par with most V6 trucks which makes sense for the numbers. Don't think of it as getting a sports car, think of it as getting a v6 truck instead of the 4-cylinder. Having other fun cars, you may be satisfied to drive them fast and this slow (how I usually am) or you may want more power to not fall behind (sometimes...). There's nothing overly exotic about maintenance for either turbo or non turbo, late or early models. The early non-turbos (EJ251 with a mechanical throttle cable rather than throttle by wire) had manually adjustable valves but it's still a long interval between adjustments. I've heard the DOHC models are a lot of fun (sarcasm) to change the plugs but other than that there isn't much to complain about.

When the MAP sensor's critical, it's critical all the time. That's certainly a misfire, not limp mode.

How do you know it's the O2 sensor causing the lean code? I'd argue you have a large vacuum leak which could cause both the misfire codes and lean code. the evap code may or may not be related.

Jump starting a vehicle does NOT recharge the battery, it simply provides enough juice to start the car in spite of the dead battery. The alternator is what keeps the battery charged while you drive and is meant for that, charging a dead battery with the alternator can damage it. The "right" thing to do is charge the battery with a plug-in charger. Your battery was probably not "fine" the whole time you were driving it, it probably started out fine and over the course of driving it for however long, slowly wore it down to "barely adequate" but you never noticed because it always started. leaving it sit for a few days was enough to finish it off. yes, hazard switch means the hazard flashers. Either A. fix the doors or B. adjust the switches on the doors to not indicate an open door. On all door switches I've seen (normally closed (in that when the door is open and not acting on it, it's closed completing the circuit and illuminating the light)) unplugging them would be enough BUT I have not checked on Subarus.

No idea on how the ECU will react to the lack of a MAP sensor but I'd expect that if it were limp mode, it'd be more night and day: works up to X throttle or RPM period. the point is to avoid misfires, damage, and minimize emissions. Spitting and sputtering means misfires which is kind of the opposite of gentle, safe, and low-emissions. I HAVE seen similar issues with ignition problems. My VW Bug had some issues when I got it (some, ha!) one of which was as it warmed up, it ran worse and worse: cutting out at high rpm/load then moderate, then it'd only idle, then nothing. New distributor and points replacement device did the trick (since then I heard a bad condensor could do the same thing). Another was my old toyota pickup: had issues that ended up being the plug wires: dry it ran fine but with condensing moisture it'd short the wires but only above a certain rpm/load. it'd run fine then, like someone hit a switch, it'd sputter and barely run (low rpm/throttle was ok, high rpm, low throttle was iffy, low rpm, high throttle was iffy, mid-high rpm with mid-high throttle was no-go) the issue is that higher combustion cylinder pressures are more resistant to arcing (and ignition) so a borderline cable might end up as a shorter path only under those conditions. Found it when I grabbed the distributor cap/wires to adjust timing when it was humid out. ZAP,ZAP,ZAP,ZAP....hmm guess I'll make a trip to the parts store as soon as I can feel my arm again.

Is this while driving the 1995 Imprezza L Wagon in your profile? Any "wave" is usually for unique or rare vehicles or those obviously different from normal enough for the drivers to congregate. As a guess, your non-STI wagon probably seems like a hanger-on to them. For example, I might wave to another Baja owner but probably not to any other Subaru driver (nor expect it in return). Same goes for my old Beetle. I would not expect it in the Firebird (stock or modded), 50/50 the Cressida if it looked well cared for or modded (and the driver under 50 years old lol).

I smell the funny smell of something that smells funny.

Long story short it reduces knock, reduces NOx (emissions), and improves mileage minutely at part throttle (basically any steady speed cruising). I mapped it out on my Firebird and it was a box roughly 1200-2500rpm and 2-10% throttle or something like that (a few more conditions to be met but that's the idea). I imagine the Subarus would be similar but a much wider window of operation since we see 3krpm by 70mph (vs the Firebird doing 90 and change at 2k rpm). EGR ought to be ported to the manifold to work right. it *can* work ported anywhere in the intake but works much better after the throttle for the pressure differential. The PCM won't be calibrated for your setup and will likely still throw a CEL because it says "EGR valve open" and expects X change to the MAP sensor but gets Y. Similar to the Firebird (again) throwing an "EGR low flow" code once in a while cruising around 50-60mph: is has a very open exhaust so there's less backpressure thus a different pressure differential between the exhaust and intake thus less EGR flow than expected. All that being said, most people see very little difference after removing EGR.

Did you replace just the clutch disk or get a clutch kit including both bearings and a pressure plate? Did you resurface or replace the flywheel? Why was the clutch replaced in the first place? slipping/worn out? how many miles (just trying to get a feel for the car)

Same boat here. Left front siezed CV axle in the hub. Bent my 20-ton press trying to push it out, ended up drilling out the axle bit by bit and pressed the remainder finally (barely). In the course of it tore the BJ boot so had to do that too, also broke the bolt off but didn't break the extractor. Drilled from one end then the other then a carbide bit in the dremel to hog it out to the threads, once I got to the threads they just popped out. It sounds easy but the whole ordreal took 3 days in my moderately well equipped garage. I also replaced the wheel bearing because it was a bit grumbly after bending a 20-ton press on it so that corners all new except the brakes.

So you have tried letting the clutch out more gradually and it hasn't helped? Is there any way you could get a video of it happening? If a pic is worth 1000 words, 30 frames per second. Actual clutch slip typically happens in the high gears first and I've seen what I described above sounds like your description and situation. I've known people that drove stick badly longer than 15 years. I'm not directly saying you are but that the argument isn't great because it's possible to do something wrong a long time if nobody shows you the right way. More so if you only drive one or two vehicles the whole time. However long you've been driving stick, keep in mind you just put in a brand new clutch. I assume you put it in for a reason, such as the old one was if not worn out, at least well worn in. A brand new clutch, grippier than you're used to, will give the problem I mentioned.

<p>Either oil or coolant burning in the cylinder will cause the converter to fail. Either could happen due to a failed head gasket.</p> <p> </p> <p>Timing of the light (3 months later) might be slightly suspicious but not unreasonable. The catalyst code is a readyness test, not a constant monitor. That means you have to meet certain conditions and drive a certain way before the check will be run. going to school and working in a shop I've seen it happen and heard of it happening many times that some readyness test don't run for over a year. Particularly the cat test if you spend a lot of time in city stop-and-go driving. The prerequisites are usually along the lines of engine between A and B temp, vehicle speed between C and D, throttle not moving more than E for F seconds, no other codes, etc etc then it takes a few seconds to a few minutes to run the test during which conditions have to stay right or the test is aborted.</p> <p> </p> <p>That you took at 3-5mpg loss and noticeable power loss immediately after having the HG repaired is VERY suspicious. I would agree with other's suggestions of getting a different shop to look at it and see what might be up. The first thing that comes to my mind is if the cam timing is off a tooth some engines will still run but poorly, which in turn could cause the catalyst codes.</p>

The lack of a clutch being better for towing is driver preference. I have towed (a bit (like almost double) over the rating) with a manual several times and it's just fine if you know how to drive it. sort of like longevity of the clutch without towing: it's all up to the driver. the limitation of autos is HEAT: the torque converter heats up the fluid a lot and hot trans fluid = getting a new transmission. The limitation of a manual towing is the driver's ability to take off and shift without being stupid and roasting the clutch. Mechanically, manual > auto for towing. User-friendlyness, auto > manual for people that prefer it. torque unloading on shifting does not improve the acceleration of a car and abso-freaking-lutely can be felt by an attentive driver but certainly does prolong the life of the clutch packs and driveline. Computers can help prevent damage from some driver action but don't increase the physical capabilities of the transmission (IE the computer won't let you neutral drop it or if you are towing too much, it'll go into limp-mode when it gets hot rather than roasting the trans). Computers prevent the beating from reaching the trans, they don't let the trans survive a beating better. As for the many-speed autos coming out now...just get a CVT. 5 or 6 speeds seems to be the sweet spot, auto or manual. that gives you a start-moving gear, a highway cruising gear, and 3-4 acceleration gears. More than that is well into the realm of diminishing returns, financial or reliability (parts count). Both autos and manuals reliability (other than a few bad apples) are into the realm of user treatment rather than mechanicals. as for the economy, autos have caught up because with more gears they're giving them MUCH taller top gears without making the ratios too wide or the first gears too tall. case and point: new miata could compare different models side by side. 6sp manual vs 6 sp auto the auto had shorter 1st and taller 6th and got the same MPG and similar acceleration on paper. manufacturers give most manuals too-tall top gears because most people (in USA) that do drive stick can't downshift for crap and thus want to be able to pass without downshifting. my baja's 4th gear synchro is roasted because the PO sucked at downshifting. Manuals are also harder to get to pass emissions due to the unpredictable and transient nature of the driver. With an auto you can always program in the possible combinations of gearing, throttle, etc and since the computer controls everything, you can't leave the pre-programmed envelope. With a manual, the best the computer can do is guess whether you're upshifting, downshifting, and how many gears. (I hear about it since I work in engine R&D). That's (one of several reasions) why I sold my '12 Frontier for an '03 Baja: I can move the throttle plate with my foot faster than the electronic throttle body motor. Yes, some manufacturers are better than others (less laggy) but all lag some.

Absolutely agree, see my comment above about it being written by lawyers, marketing, and insurance companies. They need an arbitrary number to talk about and compare not a realistic number that factors in driver ability. The first time my little 115hp toyota pickup may or may not have pulled ~6k was also over 100f and the truck had a leaky radiator. I had the heat on the last hour or 2 (of an 8 hr drive) to keep the temps stable and when we got there, my wife (who had been driving her air-conditioned car) had the gumption to complain about the weather. My best case story of towing was putting ~1500lbs of car parts in my S10 on the interstate at WOT (just to maintain 70 and keep up with the people that knew where we were going...this was the days before every phone had google maps) for an hour and a half. it had the iron duke 2.5l I4 and I swapped in a celica supra radiator. so the 90hp truck with about 3 sqft of grill had a radiator meant for 160hp and 4 sqin of grill.

Need some clarification. Does this happen while your foot is on the clutch or after you have taken your foot off of the clutch? If the answer is "after" or "either", Is it at very light throttle neither accelerating nor decelerating and feels like a giant has the car by the bumpers shaking it back and forth? if "yes" then it's (largely) a matter of driveline slop with some tune issues (sprung clutch hub, soft engine/trans mounts, all the little bits of play in all the axle joints, bad suspension bushings can contribute too). What happens is if you have a lot of torque, you just push against the limit in one direction but if you only accel/decel a little, sometimes the amount of torque applied isn't enough to limit movement so you'll sort of push hard then overrun and back off, then push hard to catch up, then overrun. Makes it even harder to give steady throttle inputs since when it rocks forward, inertia pulls your foot off the gas, then you decel and inertia pushes your foot forward harder than you want and the car takes off, repeat. Either slip the clutch more or give it more/less gas. It's a combination of finesse/experience driving stick and getting used to the car. I did it a bit in my Baja the first few hundred miles but have mostly gotten used to it and can avoid it. Mushy trans mount I think is hurting me too.

AWD: even if you pull the rear driveshaft, the front axles are still connected. Best plan: get a car trailer.

Oops, didn't read closely enough that the master, slave, and hose had all been replaced. I correct my previous post to say either the master or slave has failed or the linkage was not correctly adjusted at the time of the master cyl replacement. it may have worked but I've seen cases where it did more damage. If you adjust too far and cover the compensating port on the master cylinder it'll be a bad day. It could be that the linkage is not adjusted correctly to start with. Pedal effort is a function of leverage, travel speed, and pressure plate force. for a failed master or slave cylinder to affect pedal effort, it'd have to leak fluid faster than you're trying to push it through the line. At that point, it'd leak so bad you wouldn't be able to shift after holding the clutch down for a few seconds. Is reverse synchro'd on subie gearboxes? I know on most manuals I'm familiar with it isn't so a grindy reverse along with the synchro'd forward gears=lack of disengagement. If reverse is synchro'd, then yes fluid choice could affect it as well. MT fluid absolutely should be changed at the recommended interval (or, in the case of "lifetime fill" fluids, upon expiration of the warranty since they mean lifetime of the warranty)

Bajas are rated to tow 1000lbs without trailer brakes. Automatics are rated to tow 2000lbs with trailer brakes, manuals: 2400lbs. Toyota used a Tundra to pull the space shuttle: physically capable but not rated or suggested. NO modification will change the tow rating however they can make it safer to tow anything. I'll copy a blurb I posted on another forum recently asking about towing and what the limiting factor is:

Hydraulic clutches aren't "adjustable" like cable clutches are. The adjustment is to take up slop due to manufacturing tolerances or bent parts. If you adjust it incorrectly to account for broken parts, you can make it worse or cause other problems.

Well, we've been using electric fuel pumps mostly the same way for a few decades now without much trouble, so yea... Nothing like millions of people driving around with tanks of highly flammable fuel strapped to the bottom of the car. Or in the case of us motorcyclists, between our knees.