Mr. Carb

No no no, this device does nothing to the throttle, it's mounted above the t-stat on ea81t and ea82 mpfi intake manofolds... It's a valve thats normally closed when the car is cold and when it warms up, it lets more air into the intake or something like that. it's a fuel injection version of a choke. Only it works by letting more air in after the mass airflow sensor I think. So the computer always runs it on the rich side, and counts on that little bit of extra air to lean it out a bit once it's warm I think... Something like that.

Uhhh Some kind of air bleeder valve. that lets the car run rich when it's cold.

Would an aac valve sticking make a car run rich? Just throwin' out an idea here, see what others think... thanks!

I'll go get a picture then later tonight:)

Austin and I worked with that last night, We didn't install it, but we figured out the resistances of the temp senders, and put a resister in of equal value making the car gauge show that it was running at normal temp, And it did infact effect how the car ran. So we know now that the temp sender is important to the ecu. I haven't figured out a way to get the stock temp sender in yet, So in the mean time, I'm just going to wire in a variable resister and have it so the car thinks it's cold when it's cold, and thinks it's warm when it's warm so hopefully it doesn't run rich on this time to pass. If that doesn't stop it from running to rich for emissions, I'll just pay for the waver and get it over with. But I was still trying to figure out what that disconnected wire's purpose was...

I've got this wire, on the back of the moter, it's yellow. Not plugged in, it comes out of one end of the engine wire harness, then theres the other end going back into the engine harness, When I plug it in, it doesn't seem to make any diffrence to the way the engine runs, or make any lights pop up in the dash. It sits right under the oil fil tube, infront of the bell housing, anyone have any clue what this is? Thanks.

I was saying I think the sender wire goes to the ecu and the dash gauge... But I could be wrong. the other electrical deal on top of the thermostat is some sort of vacume control system for the turbo. I read it up in a subaru book. It's hard for vacume devices to work when turboing. Uhhh, theres the anologue sensor in the heater core hose, no other spot for any other sensor. and the anologue sensor is the custom gauge one. Just to point out what I Do know about the car. As far as A/C goes. No, I run it with the heat only when it's warming up, if even that. Usallaly I keep the blower off until it warms up, but it's always in the heat position unless I need the defrost. I know the defrost runs the a/c. that little ect is not there. it's removed. If thats what it is. The turbo had to have coolant lines come from someware, it's a very clever design. So I'm looking at putting it in a coolant line someware else like in the heater-core line... and just running the wire.

know where the ambiant temp sensor might be located at?

Beats me, anyone else have any idea on the thermal sensors?

Well, I think it's an electrical problem, Because when I start up the car, it runs for a few seconds cold right? then something goes click, the idle goes up to around 1800rpms, and it's running rich for warm up mode right? I think it gets stuck in that mode, So I'm seeing if I can figure out if it's a bad relay, or of the ecu is just messed up.... What do ya all think about that?

Not yet, would that make a big diffrence?

Yeah, so heres a list as to what has been fixed. New o2 sensor, new cap and rooter, new sparkplug wires, timeing adjusted, leaned way out... and it's still exceeding 6(%) on the CO levels. Limit is 1.3. I have no idea whats wrong with it at this point, it runs just fine. The guy said the fuel pressure might... Might be too high. *shrugs*

It's aparently not fixable. Took it to that "expert" in south seattle and he says it can't be fixed. So I guess I have to come up with 150 bucks to have it wavered. Nothing else can cause a car to run to rich with a new O2 sensor and everything right?

unless the body significantly changed in the 90's on brats, I bet it's still running on ea81 body style suspention. And in my experience, Brats are the best handling ea81 body style subarus out of all of them, even though they have the same suspention. But, if your looking into air shocks for that age of a body style, you are probably looking into alot of custom work to be done. In the usa, I believe brats had the same body style from 81 and up, I think the last year was 87 for the brats, I haven't seen anything later than 87, in the usa. So you may want to look at 86 brat stuff to get in the right neighborhood for parts.

Thats exactly what they're doing, and they say it has to be tested in drive, no other gear... they're being pricks about it. Anyway, I'm taking it down to that guy in South Seattle today, and letting him look it all over and fix it if he can. If anything he can just sign a waver at this point.

I think it's failing because they're driving it 25mph under load at 1700 rpms... Test results Are better than the first time, first time the cruise CO was 9.43 % instead of 6, so it's not as bad. And this time, the coolant temp never got above 190ºF during the whole test.

They dyno it to drive 25mph under the vehicle equalivalant load. With the auto, thats 1700 rpms... And yeah, I'm taking it down to the specialist...

Failed again, primarly for informational uses, I'm posting this mainly for austin to see the results. hydrocarbons: Cruise:340ppm, limit:180ppm Idle:355ppm, limit:220ppm CO(%) Cruise:6.24 limit: 1.3 Idle:0.12 limit: 1.2 (Passed) O2: Cruise:2.34 Idle:8.97 Idle rpm was:830rpms Cruise was: 1,780rpms Currently stumped, Will be taking it to downtown to have it checked up.

you can get universal ones at shucks for 28 bucks, Cheap I thought!, then the one that actually has the right connector for the subaru it's self, is like 38 bucks. Only diffrence in the two sensors is one has the female spade plug on it with the rubber boot, the other just has a crimper on the end of the wire so it can be crimped to another wire stripped a quarter inch.

I bought a new O2 sensor, It wasn't the 100 bucks I was expecting them to be, so I went ahead and picked one up. Put it in, The car seems to run a bit smoother now at lower rpms. And it has a little more acceleration. As far as I can tell. So I think it's ready to go through it's second emissions test now. I'm still thinking about adjusting the distrubuter, it seems alright though where it is yet, Thats why I've put it off. Anyway, Just giving an update on the progress of my car. Any thoughts are appreciated, thanks!

the 84 brat runs at the half mark all the time, no matter what, if it gets a little above, the fan kicks on and back down to the half mark it goes. it has a new radiator and 180 t-stat. The 84 coup after I fixed it, runs between 205 and 180... depending on stop and go or driving steady. the 84 t-coup has a manual temp gauge.

Ok, yeah, thats what I did, I wonder if that was why it was running rich.... I priced out O2 sensors for that car, they're around 35 bucks if I get one from Shucks.

Well, Ausitn and I did a bunch of work the other day on the coup, We resealed the oil pump, tuned it alittle, and replaced the radiator and one of the radiator fans, now the car doesn't over heat. or leak oil. It idles lower than 1,000 rpms too, Was wondering, the screw on top of the manofold infront of the throttle body, is that the idle adjust, or fuel mixture adjust? It doesn't seem to change the throttle physically, but it does change the idle when I tweak it., if anyone knows, that would be great! The book I have doesn't say anything about it of course. Thanks.

I couldn't make it up there unless I left after 6pm, wich point it's dark.

That is of course providing the t-stat is open so that the coolant from the engine circulates to the radiator right?