Mr. Carb

Only time I had a mouse problem it wasn't in a subaru, nore in a fan system, A mouse managed to make a nest in the intake manofold through the carbrator... chewed right through the airfilter. this was on the big chrysler.

yeah, thats the real issue, they ran it on a dyno, with the auto, so it predotonated like mad, wich is the cause of the co and hydrocarbons... the other cause of co is probably a bad o2 sensor... So I'm thinking we retard the timing a little so that predotonating issue is solved temporary. And see how it runs, if it's belching black or still stinks, we can try swapping o2 sensors. But I'm pretty sure it was the loaded predotonation it was having. Cause it was driving a load of vehicle weight, at 25mph with the auto tranny of course driving it in 3rd gear.

Yeah, I'm not worried about the shroud to much, but if it was around lol

Yep, I know, thats why If you want money for the clutch fan, I'll fork it over.

Thanks everyone for the help, I am replacing the air filter, doing oil changes, flush, spark plug wires look fairly new, Rob? at anyrate, it's not having misfireing issues, so spark plugs arn't really the issue. But I'm going to stick a cat in, Austin has a downpipe for an ea82 turbo... so we'll stick it on just for the emission testing. Thanks everyone for the imput. I want to work on putting normal fans back in for now, to see if it helps, either way it's going to take HP from the engine either through the alternator or the fan directly on it, So I don't see much of a diffrence.

The car is great, I think the cat thing has alot to do with it now that I hear what it does to O2 sensors, explains everything if thats really the case, So I think I better throw a cat in it for the test.

Any chance you still have the clutch fan and fan shroud?

I understand that you wern't sure, I wasn't expecting it to pass right away anyway. I tested it so I could get an idea of what I had to do to get it to pass. I'm a little mad at the emissions place for overheating it though. I don't understand why they dyno that car, but didn't dyno the brat. same year, same car... diffrent body and it's a turbo. I'm wondering if automatic transmissions make the diffrence.

Ok, results, sense it failed cruise, they didn't bother testing idle. HydroCarbons ppm was limit of 180ppm, the car did 240ppm, the CO(%) limit was 1.3, the car did a wopping 9.48. everything else was a pass. The car was fine idling, it had problems driving 25mph, on a dyno, where it doesn't move, thats when it overheated, cause they hold it at 25mph for a good 5 minutes. fans both go the right direction, both work, they just don't pull enough air to keep up, even with the heat on full blast for the test. They completed the test with the temp right at 230 degrees on the gauge. I am not confratable with them for that. Anyway, Austin claims it's suposed to have a clutch fan instead of an electric one that moves more air. Looks like the water pump at one time had a clutch fan on it. The car up to that point had no overheating problems. Anyway, I've got some fuel injector cleaning stuff, for the gas, I'm going to do an oil flush and change as well. Getting a new air filter too, the other one looked pretty nasty lol, no offence Rob. Had a bunch of bird feathers and grass stuck in it. But I'm pretty confident We'll get this thing to pass, I'm just trying to get imput on some of the issued I descovered all at once at the emissions place. Other than that, the car runs real well, and drives real well. Thanks for all the help everyone!

Well, the turbo drives real nice, I'm really happy with it, But, doesn't pass emissions. First attempt actually overheated it. Not quite, but enough to open the pressure release on the radiator. The emissions person did it and didn't pay attention to the temp gauge. Found out it doesn't like idling for half an hour. the electric fans don't produce enough airflow when the car is idling to keep the radiator cool, if we drive, and move, it's fine. but when it's stoped, on a dyno, doing 25mph for an emissions test, it overheats. Because theres no airflow through the radiator other than the fans. Anyway, it failed on everything on emissions, hydro carbons, and co2... I'll get the results up in a bit. So Austin and I are about to do some work with the cooling issue, replacing a t-stat for one. Also doing nessary things, like replacing air filters, and what not. I'm not to knowledge able about the ea81t's and emissions. Is there a whole of alot aside from bad air filters, and vacume leaks that could cause it to fail?

I haven't really pushed my brat yet, but it picks up to 80mph just fine on the freeway on flat road... and it's a 4spd. hatachi carb, stock ea81.

ocasionally you'll have a bad wheel bearing get stuck to a cv axle too...

heh, yeah, it's gettin a lift kit pretty soon... I'm thinking about going with PK cause I hear they're bolt in.

Yeah, the brat needs a good bleeding too, I'm just gonna take them both up to Carter Subaru, and have austin use the brake bleeding system up there on the cars.

No, lol, it' stops well enough that unlike the last trip, I feel safe bringing it down there.... Sorry, I forgot to be more specific, I'm comming down saturday the 26th, I thought friday was too short of a notice.

I've noticed that driving through the cascades in the winter most of the vehicles up there are either pickup trucks, or subarus... first snow fall the passes get I'm going up there just to play

It has rear disc brakes now... stops on a dime, and the pedal doesn't sink to the floor anymore YAY!

no it's actually not doing it at all when the car sits, it gets bad say after a freeway run. But I descovered what it was, the washer for the cone washer was on backwords.... but sense it's been dragging on the brake all this time, the rooter is warped now. So time for a new rooter.

yeah, I already retorqued it. I sat and thought about it, I think it might have something to do with the break caliper being on it at the time of crank down, because I always torqued it when the e-brake was on.I'm gonna pull it off tonight, examine the washers, if need to be replaced, will replace, put back on, drop car down, torque it down without the e-brake on... (the tire will be on the hub at the time) then I'll lift it back up and take the tire back off so I can put the pin back in

I think I have a bad cone washer, or I may have the other washer on incorrectly. Thought I'd double check to make sure there isn't other possibilitys. But on my passenger side front hub, ever sense I did the brakes that side has had the brakes rubbing on it as if the roter was warped. However it isn't warped. So I know somehow the hub is lose, it gets alot worse when I turn left and put side weight pushing against that wheel. So I'm just making sure the only possible cause could be the cone washer, are there any other causes for this I may have missed? thanks for the input.

really sounds like intake gaskets to me, or a partially blown headgasket

yeah, I helped my friend dave pull thoes doors

Yeah, the thermostat will stop hot coolant from getting to the radiator, so the fan switch will never get warm enough to turn on. So yeah, run the car, check to see if the radiator gets warm, or hot, if it doesn't, it's difinatly the t-stat, or a blocked hose. Good luck.

I'd check to see if the radiator is getting any of the heat, if it's not, it's a bad t-stat.

From what I've noticed in disasembling ea81 blocks... Everythings basically the same except the push rods, head rockers, and the little deals that go between the pushrods and the cam. I believe thats all that has to be changed. If anyone else knows more, that would probably be good.