Mr. Carb

I found Austin's wagon getting some air... And this would be Qman's hatch... Found these on Austin's photo album.

if the fan turns on, when it is Not grounded. Sounds like thats grounding a relay. So, My guess is, the thermo switch grounds when it's cold, and ungrounds when it's hot, and it's probably stuck in the grounded position. It sounds like a totally diffrent wireing system than most triditional ea81 wireing systems on A/C, but it's probably been changed if it's aftermarket A/C or someone was being really creative. The traditional way, is the therm switch, grounds the fan, to turn it on. no relay involved. Thats how it is on my brat anyway. Sounds like the oppisite happens on your car. Just my bit of knowledge, I had the same problem once.

ok, Still want to know how to remove all the old oil out of the system. thanks guys.

So, I'm gonna replace the Dryer, cause this one looks crusty anyway. Put it all together, go buy the r134a kit or whatever it is, with the cans from wallmart or somethin, and try it out. I know both systems I have access to parts from held refrigerant. So I'll try that rout first. I may get new o-rings yet though.

Thanks! Just one question, what should I use to remove all the oil from the system?

So, I have an entire set of a/c components for an ea81, and sense my brat, is equipped for optional a/c installation. It has all the plugs, and wireing for a/c. Just not the a/c stuff it's self. So, I'm going to install it. What I would like to do however, is convert it over to the new stuff. So it's alot cheeper to have recharged. I don't want to pay 400 bucks to have it recharged with Freon and find out it's leaking later. The a/c system was working before it was pulled out of the other car, it had pressure, so sense my friend wasn't to bright, he cut the hoses... So short of the hoses, I have everything else. Anything I should be looking out for? I thought I'd run it past the board incase theres something I may miss, and don't want to miss. Thanks everyone!

alright thanks guys, I'm doing the rear disc conversion, I don't want to deal with the manual adjusters, it's way to much work and servicing. I just don't get why Subaru's didn't have auto rear adjusters, because the old 65 chrysler I used to drive was auto adjust. And the subaru is alot newer. Oh well. Thanks for all the help.

Yeah, I did the fronts, turned rooters, and new break shoes, along with replaced calipers cause my old ones were frozen and leaky. And Adjusted the rear brakes. I've never been able to get the pedal to be truely full responcive. It has always atleast sunk half way to the floor before the brakes actually start working. The master cylender holds pressure if I pump it several times and hold it there. But even after bleeding the master cylender, and all 4 breaks thourghly, the pedal sinks half way to the floor, if not more. Any other car I've driven, the breaks have instant pressure right at the top of the pedal travel. So I'm asumming somethings wrong majorly with this car, and I'm really not feeling safe in it anymore at this point. I put used breaks on one rear drum because it was metal to metal, just to hold me until pay day. And thats when I descovered my adjuster doesn't work. Then the rubber boot somewere in the process poped off one end of the caliper and leaked a bunch of fluid, hense why Now I'm back to pumping them, instead of just barely getting it to stop without pumping them. *sigh* Brakes are becomming my worst emeny on these cars.

So, I have barely 200 miles on my new front breaks, and they already constantly squeek. Rear brakes are metal to metal now, and the adjusters are seized. So now I have to pump the pedal 3 times to stop... again.... just like it was when I bought the car. I'm really getting sick of the brat, and needless to say, have now turned to driving my dad's car again. If anyone can tell me why my entire brake system seems to be hosed, please?

my 84 brat appears to not even have a computer. Wireing in it is really simple, and as far as I know, the harness is in 3 sections, one under the hood, one in the dash, and one for the rear end.

I've got photos of it up in my photo album now.

Some vehicles have external voltage regulators, and if an alternator puts out more current than the voltage regulator is designed for, it'll fy the voltage regulator... Also another case that can happen, wich I'm actually going to look into fixing, is the battery wire on the alternator may not be a big enough gauge, and could get real hot, if a huge load is put on the alternator. Although I think my car will be fine as long as I don't go drawing a whole 90 amps out of the alternator. But I am thinking about routing a new battery wire.

cool, I tell ya it's difinataly been nice, I jumped my Chrysler with that alternator in, and it didn't even lag the voltage in the brat much when I cranked over the Chrysler.

Generally alternators have to have certain windings and electromagnets to produce a given current, it's cheeper to do with the 106 dollar alternator than to have the guts of an orginal ea81 converted, simply because the cost of the heavy duty coil windings, and rectifiers is about that much anyway. Have to realise high current semiconductors arn't cheap, and if ya need diods to handle 90amps or more, they're gonna be around 20 bucks a piece, and any given alternator has around 6 Diods, or rectifiers, same thing. The wireing for an xt6 alternator is identical to an ea81 alternator, and they mount on the same bracket, the only issue with the conversion is the pully, it has to be changed from a cerpitain belt pully to a v-belt pully. I read that a mitsubishi forklift alternator pully fits right on to a xt6 alternator shaft. I think it's mitsubishi anyway. I found it really cheap to get one from pull apart for 12 bucks, bolt it on, and away I am.

took the spacer off of the one I got the pully from, and grinded about half an inch off, and stuck it on, had to shim the pully and spacer up a bit as the armiture of the xt6 alternator is a 1/16th of an inch smaller than the ea81 armiture is. So at the moment, I'm using a piece of thin carpet for the shiming, but I'm gonna find a metal sleeve for a permanent fix.

I installed the xt6 alternator on my car, it works real well too! At 800rpm idle, I can have all fog lights, a spot light, full blast heater, and high beams on, and windsheild wipers, and it still holds above 12 volts, it's awsome.

Ok, I think I can handle that, thanks a bunch man!

Heh, Mine was over there once, it'll be going through there agian, so make that 3 total running brats going through bellivue lol

does the moter mechinism come out without removing the whole window system? or does the window come with? Also how does the glass attach? Thanks for the help.

Does the inside metal panel come off at all? or is getting to the window mechinisms in there impossible?

yup! I actually gotta figure out when I'm gonna be able to come down there, work's been working me alot lately so I haven't had much spare time to run over there, hows sunday sound? As for the xt6 alternator, it's bolt in, but I gotta figure out if the wireing is the same, it has the same 3 plugs, but on the xt6, it was 2 spade connectors instead of a whole plug for the two small wires. Anyone know how that works?

Today, I snatched an XT 6 alternator... wich will bolt right into my car, all I have to do is change the pully. Also descovered an 83 GL Coupe, with electric windows and mirrors, sense my brat already has the wireing for the electric mirrors, I'm gonna just buy the whole doors and wire in the windows and mirrors into my current doors.

I Still think it's a soft plug, I just pulled apart a moter at austin's that had water mixing with oil like that, turnes out, a soft plug in each head completly poped out.

Hes in Oregon working on his wagon.... I think he'll be back Wednesday the 2nd.

Well today I spent the day doing the front breaks, I snatched a spair set of rooters austin had, took them in and got em turned. Bought some new break pads... descovered my calipers were frozen, took some spare calipers austin had from a hatch. while I was at it, I replaced my passenger side cv axle cause it clicked alot, outer boot was torn. Got it all together, blead the hill holder, master cylender, and front breaks, next step, is to inspect the rears and bleed the entire break system at once... But the car locks all 4 wheels all at the same time now. I feel I had a very productive night:cool: my passenger side rear drum is making a horrible grinding noise.... So they're the next thing to get done.