Mr. Carb

Just a quick question and I'll get out of the way, I was wondering where the intake is for the ventalation system in ea81's for say if I turn the heat on, or the "a/c" on.... or the defog on... where does the blower get air for that? I want to spray some deoderising stuff or lysol down it with the heat on full blast so I can get rid of the bad smells in the ventalation system. Anyone know? thanks.

My g/f told me to use the cut up apple trick with my brat too, haven't done so yet though.

well I know the dash meter is good, other engines have recently been in that car and it worked just fine. But yeah I'll see if I can take a pressure gauge to it, I'll do an oil change, and if it's still bad, I'm going to asume it's due to the bad engine bearings, based off of the faint noise I hear in it after it does that as well.

the moter I hear is very high milliage, probably around the 300k mark.

hmmm, austin was convinced for whatever reason that I have to use 10w30 Castrol brand moter oil non senthetic.... I don't understand why hes so dead set on that specific brand, and viscosity oil for ea81's....... but I'm thinking about trying an oil change to see what happens....

Sorry I'm kinda double posting here, but I felt to make this question, or problem I have now a bit more clear. The oil pressure in the brat, when it's cold runs at around 60psi at idle... wich is between 800-1,100 rpms... depending on the part of warming cycle. When the car has been running for a good 20 minutes at idle, the oil pressure drops to 0psi... only rising if I rev it up to a good 2,500-3,000rpms, and when I do rev it up, it barely lifts off the 0psi mark. I herd this could be due to a bad crank brearing so it's just letting all the oil run out of the circut right there. the car isn't signifantly losing any oil, it's just barely above the full mark on the dip stick, it's new oil, and oil filter I believe... and it has that symptom.... at first I thought the pressure sender died. but it worked again after the car was off long enough to cool down. So anyone else have any other ideas what might be wrong? I hope it's not bad bearings but could be cause this is a very high milliage moter. If the moter is dead however, I'm gonna be looking for a new temporary ea81 to use until I build my current one in the middle of a tear down for rebuild. thanks everyone for all and any knowlege.

Also if I rev the engine up to about 3,000 rpms, the oil pressure does barely lift off of zero, barely..... it gets no where near 25psi.

Well actually it has just barely a little to much oil in it, it's about an 8th inch past the full mark on the dip stick. so theres an oil pressure regulator in there someware?

bump?

Well, I got it all together, Everything's streight and fixed... and mounts... http://usmb.net/gallery/album107 check out the newest album, it has pictures from today after I completly assembled it. Everythings bolted on! However, I ran into a new problem. When it runs for a good 20 minutes... the oil pressure runs 50psi-75psi (runs into the 75psi range when throttle hits 1,500 or higher) Suddenly drops to 0psi... and then the engine kinda makes a low rumble kinda soft clunking sound, when it idles... now if it was a shot oil pump, I was thinking it wouldn't work at all.... Anyone have any ideas what it might be? Any info is as always much apriciated. Thanks

I already asked if ya had a set for me? how much and do ya huh?

very possible, this is a moter that has alot of miles and sat for a few months... what is the asv valve and what does it do, and where can I find it?

is this that 4 inch long elbow pipe that runs from the intake to the back area of piston 3 into the block?

I've got a carter-webber intake on my brat, and I was curious if anyone had any good information on how vacume lines should be routed, or what emissions stuff is really that important or not, I know the pvc valve is actually useful, but what about other stuff like the charco canister and what not? Theres so many hoses on their and I have no idea what any of them do, and I know theres a major leak cause I can really hear it when the engine is running... any info at all is very much apreciated, thanks:)

I'm snagging a set! How much? I plan to give ya the money for the brat when I see the title in my name.

yeah no, from what I hear they don't do hood checks, as long as it passes they don't care in Washington. Ummm well it's an 84 brat, but the engine is an 86 hydroluc ea81 and who knows where the intake came from, it has a carter-webber on it. I'm sure would work great, if it didn't have the vacume leak, lol, but yeah I'm gonna start stripping unknown emissions stuff off, Austin wants to help take care of the problem by removing everything that "isn't needed" I just didn't feel like removing things until it worked quite yet. Anyway thanks.

Well today, I finally got around to pulling the front grill, drivers side headlight beezle, and fender off so I could fix the bumper mount with a 2x4 and a 20 pound sledge hammer. Well after having no luck getting it to budge, the hammer kept bouncing off of it, I realised the whole mount is held in place by the 3 same bolts that holds the toe hook inplace, thoes 3 bolts go through the body framing sheet metel, the hook, and the bumper mount... ! So, tomarrow on my agenda, is to grab the bumper mounts off of randomizers parts car, along with the hood hinges (yes he knows I'm taking these parts) and swaping them into my brat... hopefully by the end of all this, IT will actually be fully assembled, finally. Also descovered I have a huge vacume leak someware behind the intake manofold... don't know where exactly yet.. but it's there, I can hear it real well, wich explains the hesitation on the throttle up now. So it'll all be done and working greatly in just a few days ready to be licensed hopefully, Cool huh? Check out my photo album on page 4 of the ultimate subaru photo archive! Edit: If anyone knows about the entire vacume systems and whats suposed to hook up to the air filter and what not, please help! I want to know whats important, and whats not, without canobolizing the car so badily that it doesn't pass emissions. Thanks for any advice!

Thanks for the greatly written instructions, it looks pretty complicated, but I think Austin and I might be able to pull this off... I'm gonna have austin read it as well and see what he thinks... cause he wants to change a windsheild in one of his cars as well, so thanks a bunch for the info, really apraciated...

It looks like it's a crome beed, I can't physically look at the car in person right now, cause it's located about 2 miles away from me, I have it stored at a friends house right now... but from what I can tell from my high res picts in my photo album, it's a crome insert bead. here I'll give ya the link to my album and ya can try looking for you're self and see if thats what it is, I'm not sure what ya mean by the rigid crome though.... heres the link: http://usmb.net/gallery/album108/Carl_Brat2?full=1 thats a good close up shot... and the link to the whole album is... http://usmb.net/gallery/album107

Well I really doubt glass gets bitter with age, if it does, it's not within 20 years of age... thats for sure... otherwise old fishtanks would blow up... and I know the seals usallaly go first and that happens at about 40 years of age.... So I'm pretty sure glass would be ok. Now I hope I don't have to do much haggling to get a professional shop to do it for me, if Austin and I can't get it in our selves, maybe he knows how.... Anyway thanks everyone for the info...

Ok, that sounds like a bit of work, if I have the windsheild from the 80, can a windsheild shop install it into my brat for me and remove my old one? or is that illeagle for them to do now?

My 84 Brat GL windsheild has developed a crack from our last cold spell here, Now my friend is giving me a good wind sheild from an 80 Subaru GL Wagon, I wanted to know if they were compatible, wich they probably are, and what is involved in removing and installing a windsheild properly? thanks for any input.

it sounds like the selector switch isn't switching if it's still blowing out the front dash vents instead of defrost or floor.... I would start there. I've never taken a subaru dash apart to know how that switch works, My Chrysler has a push button function selector instead of a slider, and thats all vacume switched, and it's also my main source of vacume leak. I would imagine the slider on the subaru's probably do something simular, using vacume to control diffrent doors that open and close air flow to diffrent passages. Maybe the main vacume line for it poped off on the intake manofold side on the engine.

I'm not sure my car is really worth a new carbrator like that though, I'm really anoyed with it right now... Guess I'll just hope it passes emissions the way it's running now and worrie about getting "toys" like a new carbrator for it when I can afford it. Austin, how much does ed usallaly let em go for?

yeah, theres a reason why it's called a carter-webber, it is a webber, and webbers had a unique design making it so the mixture stayed the same at any throttle point, keeping the perfect mixture, so the engine never leaned out or flooded at all, thats why I stuck the carter-webber on it... no point in spending 320 bucks on a 32/36 when the manofold is the same size, and limits the flow just as much anyway.