Mr. Carb

I don't think the $320 dollars for a Webber 32/36 is worth it... and the hatachi's have the same problem with age...... so either way I have to rebuild one to get all the varnish out of the jets

LOL, that should help clear them out, I'll try it:D

Anyone know of any carter-webber rebuild kits, the jets on mine are partially clogued. I tried carbrator cleaner but it didn't help much, I don't have anything in the way of vacume leaks, I checked. I'll check again today now that I can see.... But I'm pretty sure it's dirty jets... I did a search on carter-webber's and didn't find much, 2 out of the 3 results were my threads lol So I'm guessing it's something not much talked about, or really that many people hate em, this one seems to perform nicely except for the hesitation from throttle up at idle... once it's half way up it don't hesitate, but it seems to lean out between 900-1,200 rpms when it gets a full throttle. If I'm real careful with the gas pedal I can get it to rev up smoothly without hesitation. any general price ranges on rebuild kits that anyone knows of out there? or other possible problems... thanks

the coolant I just got for my brat, wich was Prestone stuff, said it was good to -86º F degrees if it was 100% I think it was -34º F if it was 50/50 but in last weekends weather, I noticed that even my de-icer fluid froze... I went with 100% anti-freeze in my brat, and it stayed liquid the whole time. As far as I know.

I finally got a photo album running, currently it only has pictures of ONE subaru, cause I only own one, and I barely have a place to keep it as it is. Anyway theres some extra pictures up in it that I don't have on my homepage. And very shortly I will have new updated pictures of it. The car has an engine in it now, imagine that. Heres the link if ya don't feel like finding it the hard way... http://usmb.net/gallery/album107

Figures... alright. looks like I'm dismantaling the car, again. Guess unless I do it my self it doesn't get done right. :banghead: Thanks for the info.:-)

Thanks, I'll try to get to that today. I already timed it, it's tuned to 8 degrees before top dead center at 800 rpms. And sense the person who put the intake on didn't know where half the vacume hoses went, (no offence to that person) I wouldn't be suprised if there was a vacume leak. As far as the intake goes, there are no gaskets, just silicon seal. *rolls eyes* Like I said, I didn't get to build this moter all my self, so it's got alot of inprobably assembled things on it. I'll try the carbrator cleaner and see what happens. Thanks!

I know this is probably a general carbrator problem or adjustment because both moters I've had in this car did it, and so does the chrysler. Anyway my 84 brat recieved an 86 or 87 hydroluc moter... Has a Carter-webber on it (I know they suposivily suck) But the hatachi carb did the same thing on the other moter. Even after the engine is warm, when I give it gas, it sputters out for a second and then reves up to 2-3,000 rpms Is there something adjusted wrong causing this? or is it just a side effect of a high milliage moter? Thanks for any imput:D

Not likily, it really sounds like the CV's, when they go bad they do what you discribed... one way to check wheel bearings is to jack the car up and see if theres much play when ya try to "wiggle" the tire or hub. Check the tire for any possible uneven wear, Also make sure that if their is play, it's only going to be a wheel bearing if Only the hub/wheel have play, if the whole arm moves, then it's probably a bad suspention bushing. But the popping and clicking difinataly sounds like CV's. Bearings make other horrible sounds, they're first noticible over speed bumps and other large bumps. Especially at speeds above 25mph. Hope this helps:-)

I bet ya it's cv joints... they always go out on subaru's

LOL and I thought it was bad when I ran my car metal to metal... I can't understand how no one would NOTICE that... My car made horrible noises as the pads wore down to the rivits.... Unfortunataly I did damage to the roters cause I had a long ways to go before I was home. But they turned out and work fine now. One of them is to it's Minimal thickness... I tell ya I'm used to breathing on the pedal and the car stops on a dime. I've gotten in some cars where I panic when I hit the breaks cause it's not Stopping! lol:lol:

Eh, probably, it was just my dad's opinion, he told me something about Webber's working a totally diffrent way than any normal carb, including a holly, *shrugs* maybe it doesn't make much diffrence on a subaru due to the small intake manofolds.

Now thats the kind of ability of breathing I want my new ea81 moter to have lol:headbang: Except I'd use a webber, I've herd bad stuff about Holly's My dad used to have a Holly Carb on his 440 newyorker.

Somebody had fun!

hmmm interesting, ok thanks everyone!

JDM?

yea it's really weird, it's not a big enough diffrence to be obvious, it just seems like maybe the shaft hole is dirty... but then you notice it's diffinataly diffrent. Would the moter having a Carter-Webber orginally on it have anything to do with it?

I bet that air filter was the main culprit, it's worse than mine lol! I'm thinking about just taking a blow gun to mine for now.

I have an ea81 engine hanging in a shop, for my brat to be used as a temporary engine, however, the distrubuter from the hydroluc moter is too big, even though their both ea81's why are the distributers diffrent sizes? anyone know? thanks

ea82 carb intake is BIGGER, thats the main issue with ea81's they don't breath well. Thanks for the tips, I've been talking with Austin and he says a good mod is to stick 1600cc pistons and piston rods into an 1800cc engine, is this a recomended thing to do to get higher compression? I'm looking at Porting and polishing the heads for the ea82 intake.... I'm Not sure what thats gonna end up costing me though, considering I don't have a machine shop, or free access to one, let alone the know how with the machines... My heads came from an 84 engine. The heads in my brat on the bad engine were still good, just need valve lapping and new seals. But like I said, I'm looking at porting them. Any extra info on this would be Much apreciated... Thanks everyone! :-)

Hey matt My dad and I looked at yer test results, my dad says you have alot of hydro carbons, wich means you Either have A, bad spark plug, B. bad o2 sensor so the car is burning rich, or C. a bad catolitic converter, try looking at the plugs. Hope it helps, bottom line is, it's burning more gas than it should be burning. Fix that and it should pass:headbang:

Ok, so their not the HID lights then or are they? To me they always resembled almost the same color a Mercury Vapor HID light gives off. But at anyrate, these are thoes headlights I see out there that are really bright and Arn't brownish tinted type color that a haligen puts off right? Thinking about getting a kit for my chrysler if I can. And yes they can get anoying if someone comes over a hill at ya, or if they're in your rear view mirror. I think somepeople have them misaimed out there cause I get blinded off and on by them. Some are ok and others are aimed to high! lol:D

Yea, a webber is one thing, I was noticing the size of the carb, vs. the size of the intake, and wondering how that works on a small intake.... But I am tearing the block all the way down. So the crank case is comming apart anyway, I'm doing rings and bearings. And hoping I can get better pistons. Give the moter a little bit more compression. Anyway thanks Dante, I'll do a search here when I have more time. And thanks anyone else whos given me suggestions.

Hey Matt, theres usallaly an idle adjustment on the throttle linkage attaching to the carbrator, or in your case, I believe the fuel injector air flow controller... where ever the throttle cable hooks up there should be an adjustment, someware near that area, hope this helps:-)

These lights, are they the ones that appear really bright and are bluish in color? in contrast to the warm yellow-orange glow of a regular light? And also a note on converting the inside high beams into low/high beams, a cop might pull you over mestaking you for having your highbeams on because all 4's would be lit... and almost always only 2 are lit unless high beams are on.