Mr. Carb

My Chrysler is the same way when it's cold, it isn't webber powered though. I think it's some sign of a not properly tuned carbrator, Or it's just something carbrated engines do when real cold... *shrug*:cornfuzz: on a bad day, it takes about 30 seconds of cranking before it fires, and then a few more seconds of cranking before it actually starts.

I want to get some tips on what I can do to modify with an ea81 1800cc engine. I have a block that I'm going to be rebuilding here, and want to know what can be done to get more power out of them, I herd about a trick with 1600cc pistons in an 1800 case. But just curious, One thing I've noticed about these moters is they don't breath very well, Subaru fixed this issue with their multiport heads, but the single port heads for ea81's don't breath well, you can hear it sounding like a vacume cleaner as it hessitates to rev up. Anyone have tips? Please and thankyou, I want to get the job done right the first time lol, know what I mean?

does it do it only around corners? I take it it's permentally in 4wd mode if the front CV's are missing correct? I was thinking maybe a possible limited slip rear end or locked diff could be the reason.

Have you tried testing the "bad battery" yet? try putting it in another car and see if it works there..... or try moving the battery connectors to get a good connection, if I remember right, we had that problem when we first went to start it when it had the ea71 engine in it.

Thanks a bunch, I know about the burnt fluid thing, I burned fluid in my newport a couple of times. Woops.... it's still going strong, but thanks for the tips about the rev testing... I will do that and see what I get for results... and the gear oil dif thing info too, thanks a bunch:D

well if someone's gonna say they're better than any american auto tranny, then they must outlast old chrysler transmissions, and I know mine's got quite a bit of milliage on it and it's still going just fine, slips a little in 3rd when it goes up a hill, but thats because it doesn't down shift automatically. (it's not controlled by a computer) It performs the way it's suposed to from what everyone tells me. So I have to say, though it's not as long lasting as a Stick, it would work for a first car for someone, cause it would last em probably 2 years atleast. as long as it was taken care of previously. it's gonna be a chancy pick no matter what car you buy used thats an auto. Could be worse, she could get stuck with a early 90 ford, or a honda, and we all know how fast thoes cars die out. Anyway thanks for the input, anymore would be apreciated as well, thanks

well one thing you have to look at, is any auto in any car doesn't last as long as the engine does. I mean I have a Chrysler that has something alongs the line of 340k miles on it and I'm sure the tranny has been replaced once. New Dodge tranny's autos have to be replaced every 100k miles. So it sounds like the old ea81's maintained actually are somewhat reliable compared to most avrage even american auto trannys. Any other opinions would be cool, thanks for the input guys:-)

Ok, I wanted to get some opinions of diffrent people, I keep hearing that the automatic trannys for ea81's were piles of ****. I hear they expload or die long before even 100k miles or somethin like that. Now is that just when they're Not maintained? or whats the deal? Anyone here have experience with ea81 auto's and how bad or good they really are? Helps me make a decision as to what I can find for a friend thats an automatic, thanks everyone!

Ok, cool, thanks, so theres no welding or cutting involved in removing thoes then right?

wow, sounds like they really made it difficult to repair damaged body on these things, it would work if even the hinges had adjustable slots from the hood, but they don't. So I guess I better figure out how to bend them back forward. It's so far back that after I fixed the plate infront of the windsheild the hood catches it when it closes. Otherwise I'd leave it alone lol:cool:

My 84 brat was hit hard in the front from what looks like a Tree, it aparently bent the hood hinges back a half inch, is there away to adjust them or replace them?

Man, everytime I hear about these little off roading trips it makes me want to get my brat fixed and running a whole lot sooner... to bad I'm limited on funds right now. it'll have to wait a month and a half, or so

Ok, I lied, I think... I misunderstood austin reading the serial number, he said it MIGHT be the second engine, but I'm betting it's probably the orginal moter for that thing... my bad. so the first moter atleast died by the 212k mile mark, wish is still pretty bad lol. Considering my poor chrysler has about 340k miles on it and it's still running on it's orginal moter... Amazing huh? Anyway I hope tomarrow to be pounding out the front end and putting this little beast all back together again so I can get it road worthy. Check back in for updates on my link.

And does that wagon sound chunky, it also sounds mean with that exhaust system on it. I wasn't impressed with its get up. Austin lets get that thing tuned correctly I can't wait to get my brat up and runnin!:cool:

yea, poor young brat was difinataly abused, I think the previous owner was lasy or something, there was about 5 or 6 un opened bottles of oil in the bed. he obviously never used them to keep oil in the engines it's self, when we pulled the engine it didn't have much oil in it as well. Difinataly abused the moters... poor thing. Anyway right now, I have a temporarly moter for it, I have no idea what condition the engine is in, but it's fully asembled... and looks fairly clean. I'll find out when we drop it in and start it up.

Ok, Cool, thanks for the knowledge, learning something new every day. For now I'm not gonna touch the exhaust, later down the road when I have a few bucks to drop into the car I will think about it. For now I'm putting in a standerd 1800cc ea81 engine, with the stock carbrator and emmissions crap. Just to make it drive for a while. the car has 212,000 miles on it, and difinataly was on it's second engine atleast. now it's getting a third moter. Poor thing. I'm worried the engine block that was in it is even dead, cause the cam shaft had no bearings left to speak of, it was running on the bare block. it doesn't look badily scored but who knows what kind of microscopic damage it could have done. My dad claims that the engine block could have small invisible cracks in it, and may be no good, and sense it's aluminum, you can't magniflux it to find out... I don't have much knowledge with these moters obviously, other than how they look torn apart and how the machinics are in them. But what are the chances that block got cracked? it was ran without oil, from the looks of it, several times. Heres a pic of the inside of the engine block, maybe someone can tell me from this picture how bad the damage is, if any... http://www.eskimo.com/~carl/garage/Brat/images/halfblock.jpg

Now that sounds like the way to go, I think I'll talk austin into helping me find a turbo muffler or exhuast for the car, that'll be good enough for me right now. I'm trying to figure out what all else I can do to get engine "efficiancy" as in, get the most power out of the most gas milliage combination. I'm planning on getting an 1800cc engine block and sticking some 1600cc pistons in it... (did I already say this?) but I'm curious on other ways of doing it as well.

ok, I always thought the idea of dual exhaust was to help the engine breath better, doesn't using the Y pipe kind of defeat the purpose? I always thought having an engine breath better added power, not took it away, then again I don't know a whole lot about how these little flat 4's run. I did rip one apart however.

Yea, thats what I will do, I'm gonna see if I can get to it just by removing the glove box, because it is on that side, and the plugs in the firewall in my brat are already there, so I'm asuming everything else is too for installing it. I do plan to get new o rings and what not. and I am going to take the car to a shop to have the system evaced and recharged there. I'm not doing it my self because I don't have enough knowlege of ac systems to do it my self yet. But this is a project car and I plan on getting it realitivly loaded with options. Thanks for all the info. Yea, Austin says the dash boards are a pain in the .. rear as well. I had no problems getting the new seats and carpet in though, along with the entire center councle. http://www.eskimo.com/~carl/garage.html Thats the progress with pictures of my Brat so far. I'm thinking about building up an 1800cc engine with 1600cc pistons to get more compression and power out of the little moter. I might port the heads too, I'm not sure yet. Anyway thanks for the help

Well It has plugs in the firewall for the a/c core, but the core difintally isn't installed, I'm pulling the whole dash apart anyway so I'm not gonna bother cutting things apart to get to one thing.

Maybe, to me thoes 2 months here get real hot. I herd it isn't hard to convert old a/c systems to the new r134 stuff or whatever it is used now days. I'm gonna end up doing it to my old Newport. And I already know the system doesn't leak, it was fully charged when austin removed it from the other brat. and to my understanding, it sat for a while before he pulled it out. Anyway, I have to hack apart my dash anyway to remove all the ciggerette ash in the ventilation systems and what not. the car had brown suit on it so thick, that I could not see out of any of the windows, it was like looking through wax paper. I'm pretty sure it's as bad inside the dash, especially through the ventalation systems. I don't want it smelling like cigerette smoke everytime I kick on the defoger or heat in the winters. I just thought the a/c would be a nice thing to add in there sense I have to pull it apart anyway, and the dash in the other brat needs replacing anyway.

yea, it sounds like to me the fork may have become detached from it's mounting point, so it's no longer pushing against the throw bearing.

I have a question about dashboards and installing an a/c system, stripping it out of one brat and installing it back into another Brat. Austin claims it takes 8-12 hours of work to do it cause I have to remove the entire dash. Does removing the entire dashboard really take 8-12 hours, and does installing, or removing the a/c stuff really require to completly take out the dash? I have everything for the engine side all figured out, just wanted to get some info on the dash half of the components. Thanks for any good knowledge, Oh and are there any specific tricks I should know about dismantaling and remantaling whatever I have to do for the a/c installation, that would be helpful too, thanks:cool:

How hard was it to put dual exhaust on that thing?

Yea, I was thinking about lifting it, because I want a 4wd vehical that will be useful for times when it snows 2 feet over night. We ripped the engine block apart last night, the previous owner ran it without oil. there was metal shavings all over inside the oil pan. the bearings were GONE. with exception of a few crank shaft bearings. The Cam is pretty much gone. not very useful anymore, so I'm gonna keep the cam gear from it. Crankshaft is pretty much bad too. I put the interior all back together, with new carpet and seats from PAP. Now it smells like junkyard car instead of ciggerette smell, wich is alot better in my opinoin, I can stand sitting in my car now. Anyway, I'm gonna just take a new moter and drop it into the brat, knowing the condition of everything inside the old engine block, the block it's self probably has a crack someware. I'll have pictures and stuff updated in about an hour on my site. Anyway, later. http://www.eskimo.com/~carl/garage.html :-)