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Mr. Carb

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Posts posted by Mr. Carb

  1. Ok, I'll ding around with swaping engine harnesses and see what happens. Thanks for the insight on how these cars work. I kept getting told that they have crank position sensors in the disty and that mine was probably bad... but never found it in the book under wireing so it didn't make sense. Thanks for the help! :-)

  2. If you really have no power at the injectors,then you have a blown fusible link not ECU problems.The ECU completes the ground side of the circuit.Injectors should be powered all the time.

     

    BTW Your engine doesn`t have a crank angle sensor.

     

     

     

    Ok. Fusable links are good. I Checked thoes as well. How does the ECU know when to give electrical signal to the injectors without a crank angle sensor? Remember, we are dealing with a multiport fuel injection system, not a single port wich is most common on none turbo ea82's.

  3. I don't know yet lol! I'm still not sure if Tuesday or wenesday is going to be my day off this week. I'm tempted to swap mine out to just to make sure it's not the fuel rails. I'm going to do a test, also, to make sure theres no voltage comming from the ecu by taking one of my spare fuel injectors, and plugging it in by it's self to the wire thats suposed to go to the injector on the engine, and see if I can feel it or ear it clicking when I crank the engine over.

     

    IDEA! I should take my entire spare fuel rail, with injectors attached.... hook the wireing and fuel lines to it, and crank the engine over, see what happens. :grin: in theory, I should see fuel spray out of each injector in intervals. (for each piston, 1 then 3 then 2, then 4.

  4. That gray wire goes I think to the - on your coil... it's the same post that your two yellow wires go to.

     

    I am aware there is an FPR on the fuel rail, but I can't replace the rail... it's beyond what I'm equipped for. I do have a spare rail, though... it's still attached to the 2 injectors that I didn't replace.

     

    I can help you do the rail, it's not too hard to do once you get past all the wireing and vacume hoses. We should check to make sure it has alot of fuel pressure infront of the injectors first. I suspect it's the fuel rail in your car though because of that funny sound it was making.

  5. Oh, that. the one tucked under the t-stat.

     

    Yeah, I know it's not the ecu, because both ecu's ran the car before I replaced the engine. I'm trying to figure out where the crank angle sensor is, and how it works, the wireing diagram I have just had the four wires going to the distrubiture, and no place did it have a crank angle sensor listed in these cars. So, I don't know how thoes work.... Is the crank angle sensor in the disty, or someplace elsE?

     

    Also, I found this thicker grey wire that appears to attach to my coil, but I don't know wich terminal it goes on, the + or - side. I can check my book later to see if it has that wire in there or not.

     

    Something tells me my chiltons book doesn't show the complete wireing harness of the ea81 turbo's engine. It has a section on it, but alot of things seem to be missing.

     

    CTS = coolant temp sensor.

     

    I would imagine the crank angle sensor might be part of the problem for the ecu not getting the right signal. I don't know what else besides that. Unless you also have a bad ECU, in which case we could test using my ECU. We can't have 3 bad ECUs between us, right?

     

    *** Ever Victorious, have you tried replacing the fuel rails on your engine? I found out theres a pressure regulator in thoes that goes bad... With my car that doesn't seem to be the case, But I'm wondering if that might be the cause in yours. I'd check the injector hoses, make sure they're real pressureised.

  6. I'm still lost on what the CTS is? I checked my knock sensor and mass airflow sensor, still doesn't fire... Injectors are not getting power... so the ecu isn't getting the single to fire them. What and where would I find wireing problems that would cause the ecu not to get a signal to open the injectors. Anyone know?

  7. yeah, Sorry about the earlier post, I think I was blowing off some steam. Anyway, fuses are good, checked all of em. I haven't checked the injector voltages or resistances... it sounds like they are not working, or don't have power, I'm thinking the crank position sensor in the disty isn't working, or somehow isn't plugged in. I'm going to check things in the daylight tomarrow and see if I can find something broken, If not, I'm sending it into Smart Service.

  8. Well I haven't looked yet. My car is dead, I drained the tank, put new gas in, It's got fuel all the way up to the fuel injectors. Won't fire... unless I use starting fluid, in wich it just ran off the fluid until it ran out. Then it back fired and blew an intake gasket. So I gave up on my car. Spent 3 weeks rebuilding the top half and now I have to it all over again to watch it still not work. I was suggested to haul the car into a shop, but they're going to want alot of money to replace the intake gaskets. I suspect the fuel injectors are either bad in mine, or the electrical system that tells it to open the injectors is shot. No matter what, this car is going to be way to expencive for me to fix at this point. I think I'm going to sell both of my cars sense they're both dead... I could use the excersize.

  9. Here I am updating on it again. Got the engine all in and everythings all hooked up good and tight. turned the car on, ignition works, dash works, fuel pump makes usallal noise... car doesn't fire when I crank it over. I spray'ed carb cleaner down it's throat and turned it over again, and it ran off the carb cleaner for a couple minutes and then died. It's behaving sadily, just like Ever Victorious's car. I'm going to check the fuel filter and fuel pump, make sure everything's working back there, and probably put fresh gas in, maybe with some injector cleaner as well, see if that helps it. I can hear the injectors all clicking and I can smell some gas when trying to crank it over. So I'm thinking the fuel pressure may not be quite high enough or not working at all. Anyone else have any thoughts on this? :banghead:

  10. I'm sure a brief picture of the top of the moter will work well enough for me. I have all the parts and only can vaguely remember where they went. But all I need is a picture of the intake with, and if possible, without the 4wd turbo pipe on, the pipe blocks a few things, I also know a couple things plug into that pipe that I already know of. I know it's yucky out btw:grin: Speaking of which, without taking a picture someone can tell me this, On these cars, what is the stock location of the o2 sensor? is it in the cross over pipe? or on the down pipe before the cat? My exhaust system was modified to fit an ea82 turbo charger on it and thus, has a spot for an o2 sensor in both the cross over-pipe and down-pipe. Wireing harness only has a plug for one o2 sensor. I thank everyone for the help, and understand that it's crappy weather out right now. I'm hoping to get this car done by monday as I have no functioning vehicle right now.

  11. It's 1" black iron pipe (O.D. more like 1 1/4"). I would have used some thinner walled tubing for a little bit more flow but the hardware store was way closer than the steel mill. My bottom rad hose is also two peice, to join that I used a 1 1/4" plastic union also from the hardware store. I would recommend using that if you don't need to put in a temp sender.

     

    The oil pressure hardware cost me about $45 total. There might be a way to run it with less adapters, but that was all I could figure out. If anyone's interested I can try to dig out my invoice on that stuff and I can get part #'s for the adapters and put you in touch with the supplier (Paragon Performance in CA). I tried getting all the stuff from jegs or summit, but some of the adapters are a little too specialized.

     

    I'll be doing this as a summer project so I am interested in setting this up in such a way. I'm interested in knowing about this supplyer :grin: Thanks again!

  12. Yes, they can be "ovalized" to match either by a machine shop with a milling machine, or do it yourself with a die grinder or dremel tool.

     

    MODs:Could this thread please be moved to the retrofitting forum? Feel free to delete this text.

     

    Oh, geeze, I didn't realise I posted this in the wrong catogory! woops! :banghead:

  13. I love the pictures, However I'd put the temp sender in the heatercore hose so I can tell if the car is getting warm before the t-stat opens up to the radiator. ea81 turbos had their temp senders moved to the heater hose lines when the factory recall on the turbo chargers were done. I can see where if the t-stat stuck shut, I'd never be able to tell the engine is getting too hot until to late. Other than that, I love it. I'd imagine it'd wouldn't be too hard to find that t-fitting for the heater core hose and temp sender.

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