bmaness

95 Legacy Wagon LSi

I have the service manual, but my electrical schematic deciphering skills are limited. I was hoping someone would recognize where that red power wire goes by sight.

So I replaced the heater core successfully but when I glued it all back together the AC compressor clutch would not kick in. It was working fine before the heater core. Everything else works. At the same time I decided to remove the dealer-installed security system. So I’m figuring I have a wire not connected yet. That red one coming out of the instrument harness to fuse box 15 prong connector is my prime candidate. And help me to understand what the wires wrapped in gray vinyl go to. Some sort of round 5 wire connector above the fuse box. One of the wires goes through the bulkhead down to near the driver headlight. Fuses all good. Mode control and fan motor working fine. I jumped the compressor clutch direct off the battery and it engaged normally. Any ideas? Thanks folks

Well I got it put back together, reusing the lower camshaft idler. Runs great. I wrote rockauto a glow-in-the-dark complaint letter advising them of my dissatisfaction with the Dayco kit. Aisen from hereon... Thanks to all for the help.

Sorry for any confusion, I just added on to the original thread instead of starting a new one. Mine is a 1995 ej22e in a Legacy LSi wagon with 230k miles. The picture under "more info" showed 4 pulleys but the kit came with 3 only

A member suggested an Aisin kit and, having never heard of Aisin, I bought Rockauto Dayco Kit No. WP172K3AS "premium replacement" kit instead. This purchase came short an idler pulley (the red one at bottom left), hence my question above. So, in the interest of getting my car back on the road, I'll just use the old perfectly-serviceable red idler and put it on last before pulling the tensioner pin? My original question to the forum was, is it better to get a genuine Subaru timing belt or does it matter? The Dayco belt that came with the above kit was appropriately marked at the crankshaft, 44 and 40.5 teeth marks. The Dayco kit came with 2 oil seals ( in a separate sealed packet) that I could not identify where they would go so I did not mess with them. They were different sizes and came with a small tube of lube. Presumably behind the camshaft pulleys? Me no know. I'm not fixing what isn't leaking.

In my Dayco kit there is a smooth tensioner pulley, a toothed pulley, and a smooth (green) pulley. There are 2 smooth idler pulleys on the car. Am I short a pulley or do I reuse the lower smooth (red) idler pulley?

You were right of course, I finally found all the marks and all 3 look lined up which explains why it runs so well. I'll be back when I get in a jam. Thanks

OK so I pulled the radiator and can see much better. There do not appear to be hash marks on the camshaft pulley rims, but there does appear to be an arrow cast into one of the spokes of each camshaft pulley. Are these the alignment marks?

Thanks Mike 104, I downloaded the FSM. I have an EJ22e. I learned about "running naked" on this site. The timing belt cover has been removed for some time, so the pulley rims are kinda crusty. I'll likely pressure wash the area real good and try to find my best bright light to help my tired eyes locate the hash marks. I ordered a Dayco assembly kit from rockauto $140. I'll be back when I get up the gumption to tackle the job. Thanks for your help.

I'm fixin to do a timing belt on my 95 legacy 2.2. I was planning to buy the kits they sell with the belt, tensioner, pulleys, and water pump. I thought I read here that it was better to buy a genuine Subaru timing belt. Is this the case or will I be all right buying the "premium" aftermarket replacement kit? Also, I've been running naked for awhile, and there are no discernible paint or hashmarks on the camshaft pulleys that I can see to properly align them. Do I just need to look closer?

Yep, I went caveman on it and jerked it cleanly past whatever it was hung up on, Now for the replacement exercise...I'll be back.

I can jiggle it pretty good but It's hanging up on the box next to it at the top right. I know if I start prying on stuff I'll break it.

95 Legacy Lsi 223k I have successfully removed the dash and the crossbar and gained access to the heater box and removed the two stud nuts at the top of the box housing and loosened the ac box housing screw immediately below. I can't get it to move much. The housing is still tight to the studs. I can pull the housing top off the studs with effort, and rock it a bit. The core in/out pipes are free to move. I hate to roughneck it now, having gotten this far somewhat successfully. It seems to be held at the bottom of the heater box somehow, It looks like the box will clear the hump ductwork but me not know. Can you advise on best way to get to the heater core? I'm pretty close...

95 legacy lsi So my cig lighter was working until I plugged in a 12v interior heater fan I bought to keep warm because my heater core sprung a leak and I plumbed it out of the circuit. I looked under the dash and under the hood and all the fuses look good. What am I missing?