whynot
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Posts posted by whynot
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you could also use a through socket wrench and the allen. But as sid, I would do it off the car, and with the springs compressed.
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I just wanted to do this for the good key switch, and the better wiper relay. But i think I will just pull the key switch assembly and change that.
Thanks
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the desired switch has variable on both.. is it as easy as swapping the module in the rear of the cars? I have both of them here. Not sure what I would be looking for.
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I want to take the steering column from a 99 outback anniversary edition. into a 99 base edition. The difference is that one has an adjustable timer for the wiper delay, and the other is only one setting. Can these be changed with no issues? anything else to watch for when doing this? Thanks
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man I miss the days of the old ford heater core. 30 min, open door swap core close door... Now you have to tear the car apart.
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Thanks for the help. I let some water out of the bleed screw on the top of the radiator, and tightened it back down. That seems to have fixed it, Something caught in the o=ring seal or something.
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I thought I had it burped well. If i top it off it is only about 1-2 cups. every time. It seems to spit it into the tank and not pull it back. I have trimmed the hose at the radiator connection, and I have a hose clamp on it. the hose at the bottom of the tank is cut at an angle.
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on my 99 I changed the head gaskets, and the overflow system worked ok, even with a leaking water pump. I changed the water pump, and now the coolant does not return from the overflow tank.
No bubbles in the overflow tank.
Tried a coolant pressure tester, and could not get a good seal, so I hooked up about 10 psi of compressed air to it, for about 20 minutes looking all over, and can not find a leak, and not loosing coolant.
I am going to get a new radiator cap. it was new before the head gaskets went bad, and the same one from before the water pump change.
could the head gasket failure ruin my cap? it was shooing water out of the radiator. and if so why did it work with a leaking pump?
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get a meter and check it. My alt. had a bad diode, outputting 12V. Slowly leading to a dead battery.
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please post when you find the issue. I would like to know what you finally find that fixes it.
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when the ring is compressed, and you push it into the cylinder, the compressor is pushed against the block, and the compressor and cylinder wall act as one cylinder then when the rings get into the cylinder they set against the wall of the cylinder, and the compressor falls off
On other cars I have always ended up using the ratchet type, I could never hold the compression required and maneuver everything. This is one I use,
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silly question, but did you pull up on the hood after pulling the lever? mine releases but does not pop up. I just pull it up, release the safety and open it up. You should be able to see the cable and movement through the grill.
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Thanks so much once again. I saw the location of the weep hole after I got it off again. Replaced the pump, and it looks like it sealed with no issues
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I missed both the temp sensors up there on my 99 and it was hard to start and then would die if i tried to rev the engine. All went back to normal with everything plugged in properly. Do not know about yours
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WOW, I thought gates was a quality company. That is what we used on everything 20 years ago. how times change.
Guess I should get a new pump and try again, after I get it all cleaned up. I will start on this on Monday and get some pictures.
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I could not see any issues with the mating surface, I do not have pictures, but can get some when it comes apart again.
The leak is dripping from the behind the bolt, "c" in the torque sequence.
The first gasket that failed was a paper one from the parts store, this one is the metal one from Subaru.
The WP came in a gates kit. It has been on the engine before with no issue, using the gasket that came with it.
Also I let the car sit for about 1 hr, and no leak, not until it warms just a little and gets a little pressure on it. Could I have cracked something that looks ok cold? and almost without saying the more pressure the faster the leak.
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it is wet at the block to the pump and i do not see it running from anywhere else. I do not have the timing cover on, or the fans or belts.. The pump was new in April. Where would it show up if it were the weep hole? Are you thinking I should just change the pump? could the gasket at the side be interfering? I removed part of it, not sure what it does, maybe dust?
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I did the head gaskets, and that seems to be good, I put the water pump back on with a new gasket. IT leaks at the bottom bolt, on the side near the crank. I have replaced the gasket 2X, and finally used silicone. Still leaking. Any ideas? I cleaned the surface with 320 grit and everything was clean I have not stripped any bolts out, but am afraid i will if I go any tighter.
This is a 1999 2.5.
Thanks
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ok, Never thought of that, I just always break them loose with an ice scraper. all 2-7 days per year we get that kind of weather.
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ok, How is this useful in the winter? I live in the pacific northwest so we do not get real winters, Just curious...
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you change the tensioner for the same reason you change the rest of the idler pulleys and water pump. The bearings may fail before the next belt change it due. Cheap insurance (if you use quality parts) against failure. it may be cheaper to get a kit with all the items you want, than to add single parts and return what you already have.
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I did head gaskets on my 99 2.5d I have a check engine light for O2 sensor. Looking at torque, it is bouncing all over the place, it is stable coasting at 0. other than that it is from .1 to .9 completely random. O2 sensor 2 is at 0.3v constant Is there anything I could have missed that would cause this? Or is it just a bad 02 sensor. I did have a leak at the exhaust manifold before the head gasket change. and have fixed that.
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K&N was real big in the diesel pickup world and people were putting them in left and right and getting great HP gains. Until they blew an engine and it was full of grit from the K&N being poorly maintained. 10K for a diesel engine VS HP gain. Was not worth the risk, so I pulled mine went back to a high quality paper filter.
Not sure about migrating oil to the MAF in the subaru, but is the risk worth it?
And this whole thread started by someone asking if it was ok to maintain the K&N filter, in a way that was not what K&N calls for. Due to a broken sprayer.
Your car you choose, Lots of info about them on the diesel pickup forums, and kind of like oil debates, no one really wins, and you can make a video to support any point, it is all up to You and the way You maintain or do not maintain the filter. And your risk/reward assessment.
Good points and options pointed out.
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going to the beach? why have a top at all?
antenna removal socket
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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anyone know what antenna socket I need to remove the mast of a 99 legacy outback wagon. Auto antenna that is in the back.