whynot

Is there proof of what the dealer did to the car? or just his word? I have had used car dealers tell and promise me all kinds of things, just to get the sale. the p0420 could be other things as well. Leaks or O2 sensor etc. Or it could be that the cat is bad from the engine burning oil. You have a car that at a used car dealer would cost about 7K per Kelly blue book, 2K to do head gaskets and have them fix the p0420 while at it, maybe you can get it all for $2500 max? I would do the repair. But I think 2K is on the high side. What warranty do they offer on their work? 90 days? 3 years? depends on the shop. cheapest is not always best. Most of this question depends on if you like the car enough to keep it long term, that the investment will pay off. You will not get much for it unless it is fixed before you trade it, or sell it anyway. "mechanic special" cars are only looked for by people who want the car and when it is said and done they got a better deal than buying it already running well, or someone who thinkgs they can fix it and flip it to make some $$.

this is the same for mine, I was also getting smoke for a while after cold start. I added 15W40 when it was low on oil (it was all I had) and it seems to have gotten much better. So for me, Short of pulling and doing all that work to a car with 200K on it, I am just thinking about running 15-40, or maybe 10-40. I have only changed the oil when I got the car.

I have trans fluid leaking onto the exhaust. The car smokes after stopping. I found the lines to the cooler leaking, so I cut them off some and put new clamps on. this is near the transmission. So my questions are. Are these special hoses? I got the largest transmission cooler hose at the parts store and still could not get it on. IF the front seal of the automatic trans is leaking, where will it show? or will it? There is a clean spot on the car near the spin on transmission filter. So I hope it is just the lines that I worked on. Thanks

All the leather in you car should be treated periodically with a leather conditioner of some type. I would assume that also means the steering wheel? I do not do it, but have been told I should...

Thanks, I will pull it apart tomorrow and see what I find.

First, thanks for all of the help so far on this car. Now onto the new problem. I have a growl from the front left of the car. it does change with the speed, starts at about 30 mph. changing power or turning does not make any difference, Going slow the car is quiet. And I hear no clicking going full turn either way, forward or backwards. boots are good,and feel no movement. It also is the same in FWD. So I am thinking it is the wheel bearing?

Ok, I have an appointment with another shop.we will see what they say.

May have to resort to the dealer? about 1 hr away. And leave the car for the day.

one other thing, this did not happen when the toe was way out. It started after the shop did the alignment. I now have replaced the rear control arm bushings and the drivers side axle because the boot was torn, and the sound is gone, but the alignment is out, and it is not making the noise, but will it return after another alignment?

I had the same issue on one of my front hubs. Had to put the whole thing in a press. And support it to push it out. Tried PB blaster etc. Use antisieze when it goes back together.

I did post, got no response, All of you helped me look at some things, then recommended I take it in. I have had it in 2 alignment shops, and no one can find any cause for the issue. The sway bar and rubber links are in tact. Just wish I knew more about cars for this one. I was thinking at this point some parts would at least rule things out, instead of just paying for "we do not know". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158806-front-end-clunk-at-65-mph/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158872-good-shop-in-the-battle-ground-washington-area/

I am thinking about changing the struts, because I have a banging coming from the front passengers side. I have tried to track it down, had 2 different places look at it, changed the rear control arm bushing moved tires around. Still there. So I was going to change out the strut. and mount.

ok, The button on the end works the washer motor, the only issue is the operator....

Yes. I get the whole if you are short on money... But at what point do I decide this was a bad choice, and not throw any more at it? Or find a way to spread some of the costs out over time. I realize that in the big picture i still have less than 3 payments on a new car into this thing, but I still have a 99 car with 200K. I knew that there would be things to fix, but I did not expect so much all at one time. Just starting to question my choice on this car... Thanks for listening to me rant a little.

This is the first subaru I have owned. It has 200K on it. I drive 40 miles each way to work, and got this to do that commute in, as well as have a little bigger and more comfortable car than my dodge neon. I got the car for 500, I have put about 500 into it. It needs struts, and tires. That will put me into the 2K range for the car, and how long will it last me? This is the battle going on in my head all of the time right now. The car seems to run and drive ok, It is not just the cost of the struts, but the mounts also that comes to about 500, then the alignment. It is just costing more all at one time than I had planned on, and I am about out of money to spend on this.

I am new to this car, I thought the windshield sprayed when pulled forward to the driver. It has never worked, so maybe I just do not know how to run it, that would be great, I would feel stupid yet again, but I am getting used to it with this car. I will check it. I was using a meter to measure voltage, so I know there was no voltage at the motor. Because I am an idiot most likely... I will push on the end button and see what happens.

I have no power to the motor for the window washer. The fuse is good. The rear washer has a weak spray. Is there a way to test the switch in the steering column? or any other ideas? Thanks

So how much does changing the strut change the alignment? I need struts and mounts, I am thinking about getting them from a pick n pull? How much will my alignment change? Is this even a good idea? Thanks

are those rubber all the way to the front? or just part way? I did not take the time to look. how many feet of hose? and just regular transmission hose, nothing special?

Thanks, It is the captive nut, I got a tap (right size, thanks) and cleaned the thread out, a replacement bolt and now back together.

Thanks, I am going to try the stop leak first. Also found the lines to the trans cooler above the rack leaking a little, so maybe the leak is not as bad as I thought it was, and the stop leak may work? I also tightened the hose clamps on the trans lines, I am assuming it is to the cooler? Thanks

I was changing the rear control arm bushing and cross threaded one of the bolts. I got it out, and the nut is still solid. Can I tap the nut and replace the bolt? What is the thread of the bolt if anyone knows? Thanks

I am down by Portland. but thanks. Guess I should look at the pick n pull. What years and models use the same rack? Thanks

I have the 2.5 engine. It is definitely power steering fluid. You can see the buildup from where the shaft enters the top. And the engine does not loose oil, but the power steering does. Trans also holds level. Someone recommended a reseal of the rack? I was thinking just a pick n pull replacement? This is a 99 legacy outback wagon. 2.5L auto.

So I was under the car looking for where the smoke is coming from when I stop. So what I found is it looks like the steering is leaking where the shaft from the steering wheel enters the rack. IS he easiest fix just to replace the whole unit with one from the junkyard? Or is there a way to stop the leak? Thanks