scalman

did some easy and cheap mountings for hi lift . it would be on top because less stress on roof rack frame and because frame is not that heavy and solid in wouldnt hold well on side , but on top no prob. just with sides it would go more inside rack then.

some more sand hill testing and water crossing in nearby forest couldnt go much farther up with VDC on , went little farther with VDC off as more momentum , but via those large holes i loose momentum fast and shocks allready maxing they travel and gets lots beating there if going faster thats hill from top and from car in middle of it. very soft sand too. and i didint aired down psi. was going on 21 psi there. found fun place to cross . at some points water was allready about door changed driver side wheel bearing and both sides ball joints in front. all now well just that steering rack got loose. its loose inside rack. thinking of trying that bolt on rack maybe tightening it more, but not sure it will help. those ball joints where shot so bad. bearing as well. holded about a year because used aftermarket one. for 30 euros. and getting used to driving car without sway bars. would be nice to found some like 5-10 cm longer struts from other car that would fit in front for even more travel. that arm could still go more like 10 cm more travel down then oem struts . i just droped my strut from top mounting and looked when it will bottom something but it was still going down about 10 cm more from oem point.

so removed front sway bars at last and its perfectly ok driving with oem struts. some more flex to front and i noticed it right away. now new thing appearing. shocks maxing out if going too fast and catching some holes in sand and such. must be careful there i guess. but VDC works even better as it gets some more flex now. finds grip better

did you allready decided what you will do with 2001 outback ? lifts,shocks, tires ? what for it will be used ?

Roof rack looking good and ready for camping trips. Made that red tone to it i think it fits to car color nice Sun roof opens with it no problem too. Just testing it on one night trip. Nee sleeping platform on air mattress was super comfy, better then on foam mattress but takes more space

put mesh on roof rack . with sides now it looks almost complete thing. must redo mounting bolts. i cant bolt them from bottom anymore it took me like half hr yesterday to just bolt on roof rack as it sits so low there is almost no space for me to slide there my fingers and bolt screws on. so must find different bolts and make so i could just tight them from top easily.

made sides for my roof basket. sides are from 15x15 tube. and some metal plates for sides. its bolt on so its removable . i saw many roof backets that are just baskets. or flat roof racks that have no sides so i wanted to have both at same time. and i do. if i need carry bags boxes and stuff i will put sides on. if not i couls just drive normaly daily with that flat part on. it makes no sound at all. at least not that is louder then mirrors wind noise or tires.

I would think if those would fit subarus people all over then world would use them no? At least in russia areas, they like to diy many things there or redo remake stuffto fit. I never heard from russians they would use x trail shocks on subarus.

but those links are shorter for reasons. do they not ? question is can we still get more from our oem struts . or those struts on limit allready?

in rear in pulls wheel inward and turns it too. but can it be changed ?

it looks worse then it is actually. and i will still mod that part so it would sit on my rails . but my 3 tubes will sit on rails so it will be better then just 2 as it is in those that are sold. still thinking what kind of mounting brackets make for that. i would still put some mesh on top if i will find light one here localy. i think mesh its just ultimate thing for roof rack as then you can just hook up your stuff in any place and small peaces wont fall on your roof or sun roof even worse. for hi lift points in front its really good place . and one side lifts all front not just one side so its even better . as in that test when i did hang on that tree , i was lifting all front in minute and car was free. simple.

Im trying not to think too much how awesome would that be haha.

started to make my roof basket. used 25x25 tube . bought 5 x 2m peaces . its just for the flat part. i want to make it modular so later i will make sides and they will be removable. payed just 14 euros for those . pretty happy for result. its 1x1.80m . still need to make mountings brackets im happy that it sits so low. thats what i wanted as low as possible and as big as possible for roof area.

i always wondered is there any way to fit , change, redone some other car models shocks to fit our cars . like to have longer base shock in front/rear that would be same lenght that is oem shock with 5cm spacer . there must be other cars shocks that are longer then ours that they would fit us , no ? meaning just to have longer shock by 5cm would give us more travel that way . all those special offroad / racing shocks just cost a lot money . like loyale 2.7 turbo had those adjustable base models. and then you can fit toyota 4runner front shock to L rear. thats awesome . can we find something similar that fits us ?

will be interesting to see what you will put on that '02 outback. then again fox means all will be expensive and no diy .

i always looking for something interesting to drive onto , test AWD , test traction control , test tires. that was interesting to try. it was just about fiting under to not damage something in process. then i let traction control do the job , it was driving onto about half way i think but then lost traction on 2 wheels. still was nice try

i thought i have rust but OMG that forester is just braking apart. yh more speed can brake cars . its because subarus just love speed and its fun to drive them even with oem suspension. maybe that forester need strut bars front and rear there to keep those in place. imagine that happens to my daily driver i would cry ..,lol

changed front lift spacers. i had 4cm only spacers without any kind offset, and with that problem i was using smaller bolts on strut bottom holes to make camber about ok . so now i redone front spacers myself to 5.1cm height now and with camber offset 7mm. now i can use oem strut bolts with that . with that much lift front sway bar must be disconnected to have enough space to remove strut, with sway bar is no enough travel down to remove strut. from my last forest visit now without exhaust long tubes sticking in rear i can be more sure that if i scratch anything that would be just plastic bumper . thinking still add another 1cm lift to rear. suspension could take 2.5'' in rear , and now i have just 5cm lift spacers in rear. i could go for 6,3cm spacers there.

cars who where never build to hold long travel suspension and thats result. its sad to see them in this state really. and i bet in that trip long travel suspension was not even needed .

toothpaste cleans lights good. its easy and fast to do .

anyone have real comparison pics of those leds on 2nd gen outback? or at least tell how better they are then oem bulbs , i upgraded mine to osram night braker laser and its not so much upgrade over oem ones . do those leds any better in actual light on road , on wet , rain ? i have H7 in front as low beams. what kind bulb is good as brake in rear ? i tried ones and they worse then oem bulbs.

made better hi lift adapter and lift point in front. now all is solid and hold in front pretty well . not sure yet what to do for sides or rear, where is better safer. rear mudflaps diy just cut them from some soft but strong rubber . drilled new holes in bumper . for now its no space in front to put there mudflap as i turn wheel its not enough space there for this kind of mudlflap. but i could redone front strut spacer to make them with caster and camber offset so wheel would go little forward.

changed rear driver side cv axle and looked how close that exhaust tube goes to that rubber on full drop, or if something will push that exhaust up it will brake that rubber boot as well, as happened to me before. but where else that exhaust could go ? not much space for it there, and dont wanna hang it lower as its just worse on trails.

How else you could say its plugged cat or not ?

those appraoch and departure angles could be better but well its outback, not forester , it has long nose and long body in rear that could hang easily if angle is too steep. here i was hanging on my exhaust little. well its even longer then rear bumper so its kinda understanding still its not much that could be done with this model, other then extra body lift maybe. but still my car must be peoples car, not offroad only purpose car . it must still be comfy to ride for 4 extra people and 5 or more bags in trunk. so on that thing in front in pic i was touching front skid plate some and then rear just exhaust , no bumper thou. still not bad for wagon to do that and go places.