scalman

for just 2'' lift spacers and old struts with old oem spring i dont feel any discomfort or more roll there. with new harder springs you can eliminate both sway bars and drive just fine.

why you need that rear sway bar anyway ? i drive without it after lift with better handling then i had with sway bar. at least for me this is better way to feel car on road.

my "short" travel suspension all wheels still had traction there, maybe some 3-4cm more. rear without sway bar so seems like both front and rear suspension travels almost same way. so i guess in rear at least that would leave me with this amount of real life travel . with sway bar disconnected

i would just "retrofit " all outback into forester . just leave forester frame and put there outback stuff. you would be the first to do that i guess. not sure why you like that forester so much thou. no seriously you allready have good stuff in your forester , why change it ? and all that what you put there wont work with VDC . home made VDC ? what it would control and how ? would it control ABS control unit ? then how ? it need to be connected physicly into that ABS unit , like how could some home made traction control control that?

i made them from video. its more in there. and yes i like to test myself how VDC works . and im impressed very much. as most people told me that VDC is not for offroad that you need momentum allways. well not allways and sometimes its not possible have momentum at all. then this helps. or lockers. i see straight youtube links dont work , but copy adress from screen works. and when you want to have fun VDC off and 1st gear. 1st gear lets you rev higher then D gear. but maybe it makes gearbox more hot too. but for short time its ok. this was on D gear and i was flooring pedal. not so high revs as my other video where i was going same donuts on 1st gear. so again there is something to learn. this on 1st gear. higher revs could be heard

I will try stuff when its warmed up. Should be spring but still freezing outside. At least its dry for now. Rust free car is very hard to find here. Only if its exported from some rust free country and never driven localy. But then it would cost not cheap and would be petrol only. Lpg conversion alone would cost about 1k euros. Anf i dont think i could afford drive only on petrol with this salary and prices. Or drive less, but that my point that to drive a lot. Still i should get better mpg as most ppl with same cars and lpg here getting. Duno whats wrong with mine but one time i drove 150km with 20l lpg and then other time just 110km with same 20l. Well sometimes car sits long time on idle just and im in car wonder how much it drinks then. Like if just car on idle for 1,2 hrs. Still i should get better mpg or in my case km per l. One day i wanna buy those O2 sensors and other day im not sure if thats fault. I get p0420 error codes for second year now and still driving with it. I should just try to dissconnect it and then drive. Thats pretty simple. So i should get more power that way ? How i know if anything changed?

so what eats more fuel ? some say catalyst front sensor , some say not that. im still thinking to change that or not . im getting really bad like 16l / 100km kinda stuff there. so ok tires i get it they take some . but do i need to change those damn catalyst sensors and they will make all difference or i will pay like 120 euros for tiny thing and it will change nothing and then i will be pissed off that it was for nothing. i read what people say about that , i read what people say about P0420 error, which i got. its coming on on hot days in summer more and less on winter as its cold. still its used lots fuel. if i drive in forest roads in city only i could go even to like 20l to 100km and thats terrible. i cleaned all stuff that people say to check and clean. changed plug wiresm spark plugs and cleaned other sensors changed fuel filter and stuff. nothing changed fuel usage. i made UEL myself . could that make something to the mix. ? still not that much . things are left are those catalyst O2 sensors. front most important i guess. but i would change both. but if its for nothing then why ? so only thing i have to my torque app on android is that P0420 error. which can mean catalyst sensor or many other stuff too. and then again its comes more rare in cold days, and more often in summer as its hot.

i think something in your car that cruise control dont like . something dont match or dont fit or missing as you swapped engines. could it be something there that you left maybe ?

changed that stuff with aftermarket blututh right away . never look back. using it mainly just as blututh reciever now. and have 1 spare slot space where oem stereo was.

cant wait when you will put long travels on that 2002. brakes from 2000-2001 outback goes smaller and then they went bigger from 2001. so you could change those bigger ones to smaller ones from 2000-2001 then you could fit 15'' . but i like better brakes more. as much as i know you cant put 15'' rims anymore on those updated brakes. btw what happened to white H6 front bumper ? half of it gone ? that's my type of front bumper there haha. hmm maybe your new outback has smaller brakes still as its 2001. not sure about H6 models but could be worth checking.

i heard of that trick with brakes or more with handbrake even , i heard some with older subarus with active AWD using handbrake . not sure if thats helps. never tried myself with just brakes. you mean VDC off and then try brakes when wheels spin ?i might try , just i no need that. and it could not be same thing as VDC still. no more snow , spring came i guess so now will try some stuff on mud i guess. well when i plug all rust holes that appeared after winter. i already see im getting mud inside trunk from outside meaning more holes there. i mean in those pockets on sides. inside them i got fresh dirt . and i found hole from rear wheel arch that goes inside trunk. yeah swap manual it must be hard. about traction i feel like some of it tires helps too. even with VDC off i tried climb some snow hills from stop in middle of hill and i could still move but just if i press pedal very slowly , if i put too much gas its just digs in . vs with VDC you just dont care really , you just press pedal as you want and its decides how to find traction for that. well if its possible. if i would have worse tires would be diff story again. they would spin more so VDC should work more too and VDC off would be spinning like crazy. so tires is like first thing to help on any offroad track light or more hard. any advice how to plug holes that maybe not so simple to weld . in past i did some that with rivets. drill holes and secure new metal sheet with rivets but later some of them just fell off. maybe too small rivets or too mad metal that i was riveting on . what other ways ? some kind of sealant. i know people doing cheap fixed with sealant that is used on buildings . at least its fills up empty space there. then you could do something on top and then spray some rubber protective stuff. not sure i could weld inside those arches there. if i start scratch all bad stuff there i might bring more problems .

Still waiting for weather to become warmer to start hi lift modification points on car and wanna make roof rack have some ideas to make it like so i sould add components to it like first make it just flat surface roof rack then if needed add sides on it like removable sides. Thinking for daily driving flat roof rack would make less noise and be maybe more efficient on petrol usage. So then sort out things with hi lift. Would redo that adapter arm its too big tube so i would go for smaller size i think. Im not some 4ton truck that i would need that massive lift points for hi lift. Then my driver side car sits higher on 1cm . well more diff on rear even. So passenger side rear wheel have lowest clearance now i wonder why , like did spring broke or something. Driver side both wheels are 43mm from fender to wheel center and passenger side rear is 42 and front is 42.5 so something made that rear sink down on almost 1cm. Then need to put those wheel spacers and redo front lift spacers on shocks. Need to do camber and coaster offset on lift spacer itself so i could left original bolts on front struts. Now im using smaller bolts to keep those wheels align. If i would find money i would change front shocks for new KYB's as they feel kinda rough as i drive or bad roads. Amd still have that lag in power and acceleration so maybe catalyst sensors should be changed at last. Did most things that could make that power loss and lag ftom start and nothing helped, so as i understand one thing is left to change catalyst front o2 sensor.would just change both of them . HG gaskets kinda stopped leaked at least for winter they where no oil leaks on ground. Those need to be done at somenpoint. All that if my car wont just rust off on me and fall appart. As on last year rust was eating car like crazy. I dont even want to think of it too much. It still holds thou. Well rear is holding as where i found worse rust there. On subframe and other places. And not everything could be fixed or changed or welded. But ill try my best there. Other day tested more of VDC capabilitys Its simple to test awd systems or rollers as most do noe but in real life you no drive on rollers. In reverse VDC works pretty good too Im just impressed how VDC tries to spin separate wheels to find traction and then stops wheels that doesnt have traction. Its great to feel that inside car but its even better to look how it works from outside.

As for alternators h6 was on 3 wires socket as just 2 on 2.5 . some more fancy stuff was there http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265729&stc=1&d=1460410918

made some modification other day to my hi lift jack adapter , still not happy with it. maybe i should use smaller tube 30x30mm . instead of 40x40mm and make that 40x40m as lift point that 30x30m tube would go inside . because now my adapter arm is 40x40 so for lift point if i wanna make it go inside i need use 50x50 and thats overkill. too large tubes i guess. if they making so small ones for heavy land rovers, why i make mine so large. i mean if that small tube is enough and its short and it goes into rock slider and lift all side of car , means its strong enough and i make mine as for some tractor . so smaller adapter you need smaller lift points. think i will make other smaller version for myself and test it. and i almost made it work for side lifting . well its not touching doors now at all when i made that cut on it. still will diff lift point for sides . i want them as small as they can be same time strong enough to lift car and hold.

about exhaust i think i remember someone was like putting that exhaust pipe more inside that tunel where driveshaft goes i mean there is space there maybe not like totaly hide it but some at least. Its not getting so hot in that area anyway even if you would keep it closer to car body. what i mean is put exhaust pipe close to driveshaft and more inside that tunel . of course it would need redone all that thing from catalyst. change angles and stuff. ant near rear diff i wonder could that exhaust go maybe inside sub frame part not outside it. sub frame is lifted on outbacks so there are some space there for pipe to fit at least how i see it. or just make that part from stronger pipe as i made my UEL header from house water pipes. i mean i could lift car maybe now on my header because they just so strong. haha actualy my engine skid plate ends lower then headers go. so where my skid plate ends , those headers sticks lower , im not covering them with skidplate ,i mean i do until gearbox but then exhaust goes lower to catalyst and that part is lower then my engine skidplate. i saw your skidplate somewhere and its was like covering everything. maybe i don't need that huge skidplate but if i could it lower then it would level with exhaust at least.

still too cold outside to go do something with car in garage. i think i have some bad points about offroading as my skid plate is not lowest part in front, well in front it is but after shirt engine skid plate my exhaust tubes hanging little lower still then skid plate and if i hang on something first thing what will be damaged is exhaust. And maybe it would be only thing too. i saw others just make skid plate lower then exhaust and hide exhaust with skid plate. I would loose some clearance with that but maybe that is thing that must be done. i cant change exhaust it doesn't have any other place to go . So i'm thinking do something with exhaust. as i broke it when was stuck. Because it was lowest part from gearbox to rear diff it was damaged and it damaged some other parts with that too. On one place it was pushed hard into driveshaft and then it it was pressed into rear CV boot so while i tried to drive it was scratching driveshaft and broke CV boot. Engine skid plate and front skid plate for radiotor survived very well and secured everything under it.

Good to hear that. Just one thing that all 4wd cars with hi lift have that i dont its lift points so i will make those points and then test again and all should work. If its works for land rovers with long 35cm tube adapters it should work here too. Much lighter car means it needs less power to lift it so its must be easier for jack and lift points. and yes i have some problem with rust on rear frame parts. i already welded one part where rear subframe bolts on.

me having fun in snow in dark in field . VDC off and 1st gear on 4eat.

yes pin or just make it lock somehow. but they use those tubes for land rover and they work fine i guess for them. i think i just need to make that lift point so then it wont move anywhere. if those tubes will go one inside another for at least 10cm then it wont go anywhere from there. relocated those LED's so i could have space for lift points there. and it wont hit or brake my LED's

relocated leds into bumper

well my rocker are remade and i will work on them more later so i would like to lift it on sides as well. my rear is weak and rusted duno where i could lift car in rear. so my thought is does those points in rear are strong enough to be used as for lifting car. but noone knows that answer i guess better then me because i saw how it looks and well i can make it stronger in places where rust still didint made all bad there. my recovery points in rear no good anymore. and i don't need heavy bumpers to be able to lift car with hi lift. i just need to know points that i could make small lift points there. and i will do that. all i need is some ideas what people using and i will think of whats better for me from that simpliest ways allways best those small tubes they using for front runner and lift points so simple lighter and better then my beast i could make something like that for sides maybe and front and rear as well. looks simple small and light

hi lift jack still not working so well for rear wheel lifting. problem is when you put jack to lift side of car jack itself goes to car and bends into door. no matter you push it more to car or taking more far away. so thats need to be solved. like change angle or add some stuff onto that tube adapter, something must be done so that jack wont go into car but stand where i want it. at first i thought its not dangerous because its touching just door plastic but when i tried to pull it off and saw with how much power it pushing to door thats not good thing at all. that jack pad that it stands on yh so its flat but front is little bit on angle. so when i try lift side of car jack goes on that front part pad and rear pad is lifting from ground. thats bad. thinking its because that tube arm is going little down when its on lots presure. maybe thats reason . my problem is this and snow time at last. one of my best times with car. i can just spend hrs driving donuts and in narrow fores tracks when its lots snow there. just amazing thing, turn off VDC and put into 1st gear for snow donuts or just go with D but with VDC off to have more fun. and car just slides so much but not too much or not too dangerous. and if you in open field area... just go crazy in 1st gear. Dakar 2018 in car

and you wanna all that from that poor old outback ?

but you have already good amount of travel why you need even more ? or you wanna different type of suspension and arms and all just custom? but what purpose ? better offroad , better rallying ?