scalman

do you using 1st gear on low range or D. ? people say 1st gear locks center to 50/50 on those older active AWD sustems. so it must be better for offroad to use 1st gear.

bought cheap 48w flood LED's . $13 for one. tested. put them on original antifog light place. at least for now. that was easy just put there, then took connector from original antifog too and just used that on new led light. i tried to move light with hand in total darkness and see how its afects and how much its lights. so if it would be on bumper not under it maybe it would make some more light in front but really not that much . and they not best looking to put them on bumper in front. not sure that i would wanna do that. so testing. most impressive is when in some forest narrow road with trees on side. then its just wow. when road open its gives much more on sides. because i turned them more to sides too. why keep them in front there low beam doing job. so on sides they just great. yes its not ideal place i can hit them with something or scrap if angle would be steep. but maybe i could move them more back. well will see more testing later from top both low beam+LED , then just low beam and lowest is just LED. and they Flood light. in pictures all its more brighter. in reality just low beam is pretty dark and scary alone in forest. pictures makes all more bright. so go from that dark with just low beam to that super bright with LED its really amazing. and because its sits one 1 bolt so i can turn it if i need like all over to side completely. for now they turned little to sides. so they not looking at front.

good thing you showing weak points on this model. did you saw what good or bad points 2nd gen outback have ? and how thats better or worse then your model? would like to find weak points on my model so i could make that more strong

starting new year with +8 rainy day..

figured out whos messing with reverse light volatge and it where those oem old rusty corroded bulbs which didint wanted to come off even i used knife and screwdriver to take them out from sockets. it was that bad .. so after i removed them my led light come to full beam instantly. so i removed both oem bulbs and left reverse on just those leds. and they are great . again small comparison with oem bulbs and now just those leds without oems. front low beams on Osram Night Braker Laser H7 and reverse cheapo on 3 euros mini led bars amazing how much those small one give there. and that was not best place for them to sit.

coolant doesn't leak anymore. it just stopped. well i put some radiator leakage stop luquid into radiator but not full bottle just some amount. and maybe its not because of that but its not leaks anymore. all ways wanted better reverse light without paying like 15 euros for one led bulb that would be much more powerfull . instead i payed 3 euros for those and result was good just with one problem that volatge was droping on reverse circuit. like to 9v. and those leds wouldnt work on full as they should. at first where good results with just one led connected to reverse circuit big difference there i used same led for trunk light and its superb for trunk just one light is enough. and they costed me 3 euros for pair of 2. so now problem with volatge droping to 9v. even with engine on if i turn on lights or AC and turn Reverse on lights go dimmed. just when i turn all other lights and AC off they go brighter. but that something wrong there. with ingition on and reverse bulbs getting just 9v. thats low.

disconnect exhaust on which part ? after catalyst or before it . it would be loud and no possible drive like that on street so how i could test it then. i read somewhere that removing front 02 sensor and driving makes exhaust more free and it could tell you about catalyst. so maybe just removing O2 sensor and driving would be enough

but what about bad accelerations like slow one . tested other day and my times are kinda bad 0-30mph in 10s. and 0-60mph in 17-19s. i mean even some 1997 legacy does 0-60mph in 10s. ir even less. i know old car losing power and such but thats some problem out there. even if its not stall. because now its not stalling but you can feel you lack power. you need press pedal to metal for car to accelerate. compare to this some mazda 323f with 1.5 engine goes like rocket. people saying its O2 sensors. but does that all problem here. car goes same cold or hot no matter. sometimes it goes ok from stop but then after time looses that power. bad power when need to overtake too. like from 80 to 100km/h really problems

tested VDC traction control on worse situation when bad arcticulation 2 wheels in air and just 2 have traction . allways was amazed how well toyota tracion control works offroad but found that my VDC traction control worked very similar. maybe not as good but it works too.

so things continue as this or similar from when i bought car.its about for 2 yrs now. i changed spark plugs, wires, petrol filter , LPG filter , air , oil changing as supose too and diff oils too. but from beggining i have some kind of power loss or lagging when wanna accelerate from stop. sometimes it goes fast and sometimes it thinks 1,2,3 seconds just then moves. i was reading what could cause that and such , was cleaning all intake parts and valves that can be cleaned there. i am getting just P0420 code what says bank1 error. so it kinda O2 sensor , but does front sensor can cause power loss , stall sometimes from no reason and lag in acceleration ? its sounds more like air flow mass sesnor , or IACV . and then could that be bad catalyst. but again would catalyst cause all those symptoms ? so i cleand IACV maybe 3 month ago. it was not so bad , but i cleaned it anyways and other valves and sensors too that people say in net could cause suchs problems. but just today my call stall in middle road. but then i stopped fast , put on P start engine again and it went as if nothing happens. i had stall engine before too before cleaning that IACV. so whats about that air flow mass sensor then ? i found as forester ppl talked about that this one can sause power loss and lagging with moving car. and error says its kinda front O2 problem. but thats kinda not very much as O2 does . or could it be both sensor like air flow and IACV ? whats else then . and more important is there any simple ways to test those parts for fault ? i heard to test catalyst you remove front O2 sensor and try drive as that. if power comes back then its catalyst fault. can it be true this test? when i wanna car go quick and floor to metal car sometimes doesnt even move for like couple seconds. then when i want to overtake other cars i need to really floor it pedal full. and then it does something ... i thought it might just gearbox kinda slugish but then i read all those people have similar problems too. thx all .

well no it was at least from one guy in australia who have 2nd gen obw and removed both sway bars. it was talked here http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/97-offroad-tech/17810-removing-sway-bars-suspension-travel.html im just concerned about those comments about changing lanes on highway at high speed.

so i should not think about that it can become dangerous at higher speeds ? its what i reed in other forum from couple people

When i hear how people talk that they buy those old gens i think as they live in different planet because noone here have one as they would rust away long time ago i guess haha. They cool looking old subarus for sure.

I heard that you cant leave front seat bar disconnected same as rear on 2nd gens. It would hit other parts and could brake something. I ziptied rear one.

maybe your suspension is different or shocks better or custom made. tho i remember when one of front sway bar links was broken and i drove car didnt even noticed that something is bad. well you no drive car at 120km/h or faster do you ? of course best thing is just to test it on the go. i might try it some time

i did it myself. just couple hrs but you need spring compressor. they pretty cheap. hope he knows that lift with springs will make car even more harder on road, and kinda worse off road. lift with spacers would be much cheaper and better offroad.

snow melted so just trying same track in mud now

went to find out my leaks. and find out this straight on skid plate end. so where it comes from. that was one place i saw coolant drops other side had coolant drops back there then it all comes to lowest part and to look at my skid plate inside i can see where oil is drops and where it collects so i cleaned all that . and went for drive again to heat up engine and see where drops will appear again ...and after some 20 min driving back to garage and find this so again drops in same places so that much just after some 20 min driving... and again oil leaks via HG on same spot. i tried kinda close it with sealant. but it cant hold that much. still better then was before. again drops in same place so yh i know its HG problem. just before i wasnt loosing so much coolant. and i wont do HG job now or soon. so it should hold for some time still.

yes on ground. well as much as i can see because car its outside. its happened after i changed coolant and oil. before that i had some oil leaks via HG sure , but not that much and now its no oil, and its leaks a lot. i mean i could put 1l coolant to make it full and next day i would have low level again. it doesnt go below low or it doesnt overheats .so thats weird. like it doesnt leaks more if i dont refill it it doesn't leak. isnt that problem when you leave air in system . so it pushes coolant out or something. i must find out this problem. its kinda anoying that i cant find source of leak.

yh i like how car handles without rear sway bar . i mean i left it here just disconnected. and zipped it in place. its fine. not sure about front sway bar. i read that it needs to be removed , cant just be disconnected because it then touches stuff there and can make more problems or brake something if left there. things happened that i didn't liked for look of car that wheels went inside car. meaning that track of wheels become smaller at about 2cm at least front. and it looks weird that your wheel so much inside car now. it even touches little when i turn front wheels fully tire just little rubs frame. not sure how other handled that , changed rims to diff offset ones or put wheel spacers. don't see other option here.

have problem last days. my coolant running out after night. like i fill it up. its fine . nothing overheats. then after night its on low level only. i burped system as i could, but if i press that hose with open radiator cover some air burbles still comes out. so maybe there is still trapped air somewhere there. i tryed all kinda methods i found in internet and on youtube to burp air out. i hate it still in morning there is coolant on ground and it sits on low level . and its happens only after night. like where it comes off? nothing is loose. i thighten up more those places that could leak. and i cant track where it leaks out too. it never leaks out when im in car or even for couple hrs if i wait.

ohh because i uploaded them again to photobucket. i thought all people already have that fix for chrome or firefox to show those pics. somehow my imgur page on pc doesn't load anymore. thats weird . thats why i cant upload pics there. and i don't wanna upload pics into some other place then i will get lost where i keep them. now i started to put pics on imgur but couple days now its doesnt load on pc but it works on phone. yh around me there are forests. but not so much more demanding tracks around most are just made for all cars . so its hard to find like real track but not made for 2wd cars. i could go extreme and just go where i see some water or mud but im alone there and if i get stuck whos gonna help me then haha. so i no risk it too much. but i would like more chalange . and drive with someone to compare would be cool too. im trying to search some people around me that do similar stuff but its hard to fit if they far away and you have different working days and such. in my country people really like foresters too so they are plenty foresters here as in other countrys too i guess. russians love foresters too, australians just love them. just rearly people do something with outbacks here really. thats shame.

went to forest test first snow on tracks. some uphill ,then downhill. snow on top of still soft mud. and some pics from area

so its subaru outback 2001 , 2.5 , 4EAT, VDC, rear LSD. installed 2'' strut spacers. only those , nothing else. front shocks normal OEM , rear self levelling OEM. nothing else modified or changed. rear sway bar disconnected. so question is am i getting most of this lift ,can i get something more if i change some things or modify ? people say removing front sway bar gives more flex . but drive without sway bars its kinda risky no ? just wondering is this most i could get from this gen outback . like people do 1'' lift with spacers and 1'' lift with king springs or other harder ones. but they loosing some in offroad with harder spring and i understand. or others do only spring lift. then for me lift you do strust spacers higher but you need lower diffs. i dont think i need more lift . i have enough for where i go and how i drive. long travel shocks are best as i understand but they cost a lot too. and there is none other shocks that fits us i think.