scalman

went to some hardcore MT tires on some cool 15 rims that i painted myself in white is it hardcore off roader now ? well no as my gearbox went to limp mode because of direct clutch solenoid went stuck or smt wrong with it

so now its almost off road ready car with proper MT tires, at least i can fit 15 rims there so more choice for tires on those rims. just my gearbox save some solenoid problems still but i will try fix that change solenoid soon and then test maybe more was even thinking can i put some manual dual range with this engine, from same year manual models that have dual range , but i dont think my ECU would work with that so then more modifications and maybe even reflashing ECU must be done that this engine would work with manual loose all VDC stuff then .. hope my 5EAT can be fixed still there hi lift jack works fine as before ... but now i put back those black winter tires because those MT are too loud to drive daily did some more grinding on brake calipers but it was allmost no needed rly i still think this gearbox can be really good if it will work ok , with proper MT tires aired down it could drive pretty good. and most foresters here dont do more then 5cm lift so i have pretty good clearance too there. still driving with my 7cm spacers lift without any other spacers, just made longer rear bottom link to make wheels about right camber . all other just standard.

just driving on sand H6 outback wont have any problems. air down and drive. depends what sand it is. i drove on sand with wither tires without any problem. autos are better on longer trip off road i would think . your manual clutch can cook fast there.

no its not better really car feels much better and drives better even with getting all those missfire erorrors, its getting worse after i deleting errors rly ... i kinda drives then in limp mode ... not good launch no good nothing ... and lots more errros now for me like gear box solenoid D erros thats it direct clutch solenoid .. .so guess gearbox can make all car just being slug too. changed oil in gearbox still that solenoid error but now not so fast as before... trying some MT used tires and 15 rims size ... i know its not fit on those models but with 25,, wheel spacers its allmost good fit .. just need little grind there . its 235/75R15 it still too close to brake calippers i guess but for today thats all.. will try to grind it next day and see how it will go ... its shame my gearbox wont let me try those wheels properly it goes into that limp mode now again after 2 days. i mean i drain some oil from gearbox then it lwt me drive for like 2 days and then it goes again into that limp mode where i cannot drive normal. still i use car as i need it ... but feels just bad to do it torture it . but then when it lets me drive normal it launches like champ there ... for 1-2 days though not more . that weird , why oil drain from gearbox then fixes that direct clutch solenoid error for couple days . then it goes again to error.

that sounds changes when i switch between gears like from P to R to N and to D it makes different sound as i switch between them, and then when that ABS light comes up and solenoid D error i can feel kick in gearbox to wheels and with that error on car drives very slow and just bad. so that must be same problem then i guess sound and errors

my louder exhaust option tested , sounds so cool from outside. inside good too

what could make this sound ? its loudest when i turn engine off. not there when i drive, all gears works as before fine, gearbox oil good level and good color. so whats that?

Yh those abs rings removable so if everything else fits lenght and splines then all good. I just never tried to remove them those rings.

Front outback 2nd gen cv's have those teeths too.at least mine had and whem i was buying front oem used ones from scrapyard they never gave me forester ones just legacys older years. Thats 2001 outback front axle with teeths next is 2005 without and longer If foresters have those teeths then good if not can change that outer cv if lenght same

what if rims would be black and roof rack

they should just come with lift kit. if not you need there trailing arm spacers for rear. they look something like this or other style but they should lift that trailing arm can be 3 separate ones or one from aluminum or from steel like in pic.

not sure which ones you have there. but older impreza, fory , legacy ones are shorter and newer years are longer as cars became wider so cv axles longer , so you need to look older models like first gen foresters , imprezas , legacys. i remember measured mine previous 2001 outback rear axle and older impreza , legacy ones and those where like 1-2cm shorter because i needed shorter ones. and 2005 outback rear cv axles are some 1-2cm longer again from 2001 model. hope that helps to look for those. how i did i removed my rear cv axle and i went to subarus scrapyard and searched for same style but shorter axles.

yes if rear axle too short then it will pop out. some models have longer ones ,some shorter by1-2cm, so look for longer axles then .

in rear you kinda need them but some seeling lift kits this high without them as well. i used just strut spacers. but it makes your rear strut on wierd angle , mine still was holding fine for couple years at least until i had car.

is it ever ok to even drive with car that have problems that could affect its behaver on road, not just dangerous for yourself but for others too. bearings can cook and lock while driving if they really bad ... dont risk it . change it . even yourself not that hard with simple tools .

tone ring you mean those teeths on outback rear cv axle, yes forester doesnt have those but main axle will strill fit and that inside cv that goes into diff will fit as well. that axle thought is different lenght , depends from what year model you take from older ones they shorter. i used shoter axles on my 2001 lifted outback from some older imprezas, but i have one forester too , it should fit if those teeths are removable , i never thought that they are.. i have ABS ring on my 2005 outback and those exles are even longer , so check before you change them even if cv's will fit they can be different lenght, at least for lifted outbacks that is very important as with lift rear wheels goes inside pushing cv's inside too and at some point they even locking becomes too long. those are outback 2001 rear cv axles with teeths and another is some kind forester rear cv axle that is same lenght as outback, i looked a lot in scrapyards and other axles from other forester models are just longer , and you dont want longer ones, as when wheel will drop it will reach limit and will lock together that cv axle. but you can allways remove outside cv from axle and put one from your car on it. they fit at least for those years. i tried. doesnt fit from 2005 outback anymore tough but older will do fine.

@el_freddo my 2001 i bought it rusted allready , this i bought in good shape and yes i put allready some protective layers in those places that get splashes from road most. and i will check for those areas every year anyway so i can see if some problem will appear. for now i have some kinda problem with car when it goes into some kind of limp mode, its laggy on low revs , doesnt want to spin wheels in sand so much and such... i know people say those cars with autos and VDC just behave more laggy anyway , but i think i should have better power and torque there... still trying to find those problems, then maybe i will make it more off roady as i love doing diy stuff and for now its nothing much for this car to do really. So in time will try mud tires and maybe even more lift like 4' half on subframe and half on struts as most do. as of now its goes with roof rack daily and sometimes with bikes in rear its just nice to able to take bikes with you and explore even more without car , maybe loose some weight same time lol, i need that for sure. testing some kind of wind deflector hard to tell is it now more silent or not but its not hurting there for sure if not going to deep mud or any mud those winter tires still work ok on sand , any forest roads , rocks , gravel not bad too. but for sure i want to test it some more. if camping just us 2 then we sleep in car only not even going for tents anymore , but sometimes im doing full car full bags , then some xtra tents sure needed for those other people. but for me its best in car on foam matress. tested different kind , air matress too and find that foam is just more compact , easier to put and carry and very comfy, not too high as well. made for myself that silent and loud mode, depends if i go alone and want to have some louder fun there i can allways make that loud mode for myself... then just close it and have silent city mode , nice for passengers too

so what i bought . just normal city outback 3.0 VDC model and what it became to, first 5cm/2' lift spacers and larger tires 225/65R17 those had problems to fit there and live so i cut some plastic off there and hamered some stuff with hammer but in end all worked on those tires, and later i went for 7cm/2.8' lift just on spacers nothing else done and it works pretty cool , on high speeds on highway or just cornering tight in city this lift just works. front sway bar still in place , on this gen front sway bar is working with lift , though rear sway bar went off because it cant fit with lift . numbers in cm with 7cm lift front and rear proper recovery points and hili ft jack lift points and roof rack modified from 2001 so now that hi lift jack can be on full use and alike allways nothing is bought everything made by myself and because car was for trips so made something for myself too and to have small fire with us allways . very cmpact but made from pretty strong steel not thin and we sleeping in car too in trips with some foam matress it feels like sleep at home rly for 2 its just great. its taken from previous 2001outback that rusted away so i needed new car.

same thing with my lifted 2005 outback. rear wont drop more just because when rear drops all goes inside and when it goes inside that cv axle reaches its limits and cant let suspension drop more because its just became too long . and with 2001 outback i could use there slightly shorter older subaru rear axles , but on this model its became wider in wheel track so now every axle its like 1cm longer in rear from 2001 outback and that outside cv its different now using some stell ring there and not tooths anymore and i cant use new cv on older axle anymore too as tooths not matches. so rear is suffering but front still drops fully even with that too much 7cm lift just on spacers. its just strut spacers nothing else . and slightly larger tires 225/65R17 noone does 7cm spacers ou there , but im trying now and for now axles are holding fine. but rear would work better with shorter axles there. you can see older subaru rear axles are much shorter. they fit into diff no probs but hey not same into wheel anymore .

my exhaust mod for loud mode or silent mode when i want , first i did rear muffler delete mode but then i thought its not nice for passengers , so i made then option still going on 7cm spacers , still holding all stuff works just rear cv axles suffer as they reaching they drop limit with lenght limit , thats not problem for older forester to lift but with those outbacks in rear is just not good , i would need shorter axles now with this lift without subframe lift but as car sists on wheels on its weight its fine but when rear wheels going into air those axles reaching its limit to compress and they stoping rear drop , if i would have shorter rear axles it could drop some more , but on this model i cant put those shorter axles from older subaru models as i did on 2001 outback, its not fits anymore because different teaths. it was no problem on 2001 outback but now it is. so rear cant drop as much as it could there, but its still ok as VDC works and TC works

so as i neded up having just now main error cyl 2 missfire comes up now everytime. changed plugs to new NGK iridium ones changed that cyl coil couple times allready to used on but good from running car. nothing changing intake leaks? vacum bad. catalyst clogged , fuel not coming enough ? not sure , but some raw data from troque app maybe would help find some bad stuff.. well strange how that STFT1 values jumping so much from negative to zero and such.. thats just driving around with error on board. then i tried to remove that resonator maybe its clogged and reseted error codes. while driving very loud without resonator errors didint came up. but that was for short time only so it doesnt saying much i guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMeyZy_QFZ4&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ&index=1 and thats how it shows vacum while driving

muffler delete. about 20 min job just cutting it just before it goes to split into two. so will be easy job later to connect it back when needed. and now it sound much better, and not too loud at all.

wonder who can make that sound clicking like metal for sure, but from what ?

isn it that forester struts 03-04 just bolt on on those legacys ? so nothing else needed. maybe some extra spacer on top struts if you need more lift.

and VDC still works great with 7cm lift, cv axles doesnt bind or anything there on maxed flex