scalman

so mazdas adjustable link is too short for subaru. and trick that was working on 2001 outback for rear to put shorter cv axles and with that to have more travel down is not working on this model too, all real suspension stayed the same from previous models yes, but cv that goes into wheels changed they now have ring for ABS sensor and not teath like it was on older ones. and that new cv now has different kind of connection that wont fit from older model too. so now way to put shorter axle from older models. for that i needed to buy actual axles to try and see that they wont work. so what could be done then ? well if all links in rear all 3 i mean would be longer like 1-3cm longer then cv axle would have more space to move there and wheel could drop more , but that top link im nto sure what you can do to adjust that, just to adjust holes themselfs that it goes into. you cannot do much with that link there sadly only if make bump stop rubber on some other place not on link itself . and those adjustable bushings that are made to adjust some its not enough there, not for my situation at least. but im still will keep trying to find some solution that its easy and its not modifying a lot subframe as later i will need to put back all oem parts and pass MOT so why go to so much trouble , well i like it , to solve problems or at least try to solve something and find solutions, which i did at least for wheel alignment after 7cm lift on spacers. not camber just alignment for now. front camber is almost ok too, and rear camber cant be changed so much i think . 7cm spacers on rear one thing that is bad there , they should not be straight spacers anymore, because that strut now going more back and its not meeting bottom mounting place , i need to push that strut to cars front just to atach it now at bottom, so if spacer would be on angle that would help that strut i think. but for now it is what it is. so whats for rear alignment, well to put rear wheel on same line as front wheels that adjustable link must have even more adjustment there, so i made it and now its working fine. so thats how much in rear strut still need to be compressed because wheel doesnt drop anymore with all those links connected there, and cv axle hits its limits too so everytime i need to like do something in rear on links , first i need to dissconect that rear strut, and then put it back i need to compress it that much just to reach that hole. its pain. i did solved this problem on 2001 by puting shorter cv axle in rear , but not here anymore it doesnt fit. so what i have now is this. 7cm lift on spacers only. 12' under rear diff , front is less , but reaches 30cm still, rear is like 33cm. its good height now for my own height, comfy to do something in trunk , comfy to get in car and out. good height. and wheels still flexing there, im surprised that rear wheel with all that 7cm lift on spacer , that wheel still going inside there, i was thinking it wouldnt anymore . and nice surprise that front sway bar still can be connected there and wheel still flexing there with it. it wouldnt work same on 2001 , thats why i removed sway bar on that one, but on this one somehow its fine, and that front suspension reaches its limits as cv axles almost reaches that control arm. so nowhere more to go there so thats it , limit in front for how much you could push on strut there. and i dont even need more.

i put 7cm spacers in front and rear there. first i did 5cm which is pretty normal but i thought what if go more. but rear dont like it very much, its not drops as much as strut could because cv axle goes to its limits. i could change lower links to shorter or longer sure but that top link is bump stop as well so you cant just change it to tube link or adjustable link. and that is problems there. forester or imprezas older ones just dont have those problems there. and if you just make lower links longer or shorter you will have bad camber on wheel. lateral links not just short they come on angle too they change angle and twists as you want for them to travel more then original.

man those old foresters have so good links in rear. not like those putback there omg. could you give me some advice as i went to 7cm lift spacers just for struts. fronis fine but rear is same as that your newer outback that you have, did you found a way to make it work better. i mean those outbacks have top link that is bump stope with rubber , so we cant make it longer or anything . ? shame. foresters have there easy life as they have same lenght links and we have some kind of wow factor there. i mean whats going on in rear of those outbacks ? i still wanna drive on my 7cm lift just on struts and will see what happens. rear wheels are on positive camber though now because top link cannot be changed i think

trying to figure out still how to align that rear wheel as those 3 links there making so much changes in angles and pulls as they move, now i lifted it another 2cm to 7cm and rear wheels went to positive camber , but both sides are not same, somehow passenger side in rear its way more positive camber then driver side. what could it be , old bushings somewhere, maybe main arm bushing. i just changed bottom adjustment links bushings there and all other bushings are old so not sure in what state they are there, but could they make so much difference in wheel camber . ?? so now because top link stays same as we cannot just change it as it is bump stop as well, and because with lift now rear wheels started to go even more on positive camber, and then cv axle doesnt let it drop all the way down because it reaces its limits, its too long. so just make longer lower links doesnt work there and makes that camber even worse so i need make them shorter to make camber back good again, or somehow make top link longer or adjusted. but i cannot make lower links shorter because then cv axle wont have any room at all. in perfect world i would need all 3 links longer and adjustable there , so i could push that arm outside , and like a lot outside , maybe some 2-3 cm outside more then it is now, just then that cv axle would work again normaly. i think top link would need to be that much longer to make all back to normal there but thats not possible without too much modification and i want to solve all just by custom or adjustable links. found that mazda 6 have lower link adjustable similar to my lower link there so front reached its limits on stock parts with 7cm lift and rear is just some mess that moves up and down in weird ways changes angles , twists bushings , why they couldnt make it more like forester ? simple straigh links , 2 links same lenght and its fine , but now they needed to make all those angles here so when rear wheel drops down it turns too to back it forced to turn and twist there. its so easy to lift forester in rear compare to this haha. but ok i duno if anyone did 7cm lift just on struts on those models, its fun to me to see how all works and what works and what doesnt there.

because 5cm lift is not enough, lets try 7cm just on struts spacers no other spacers anywhere

measured 5cm lift but axles looks like they dont have any angle at all still. what could be done in front if remove bumper or cut it or make something custom. some fun in soft sand, if wheels spinning too much instantly it digs down making track harder and harder everytime. in the end i dig so much there that couldnt go up anymore, and when i started there it was easy to go up there 2 wheels in air VDC still gave me enough torque so i could drive up

quarantine or not im doing some new stuff and finishing with my rear recovery point and extra hilift jack point just in case. so its still my daily driver shoping wagon camping wagon , but now its proper ready to be recovered or recover someone else.

making myself rear custom recovery point and tow bar point for trailer etc and that roof rack looks good too

roof rack from 2001 getting adapted to 2005 , lifted enough so sun roof would open fully too

another good VDC test up hill on mud with winter used tires not aired down on full 2.4bar . when to use TC when not use and when use fixed gears and not D , because D will change gears and how i got stuck later in other field and how tried to got out with hi lift but in the end all i needed was small pull with snatch rope. just i used long on with extra straps so in all i got some 20m of rope and small renault scenic car just gave me some pull and i was free and good wash in the end

got back there and done all that till end how VDC does when going over ruts changing them when 2 wheels in air

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffZcmgLHRn8&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ&index=1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWEuLcgzidk&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ&index=2

first removed wheel spacers because rear tire doesnt fit into arch with full flex , so i thought maybe i could do without spacers , but no because then rear tire goes into spring when its gets into air , so thats not working, put spacers back again and bended some of rear fender metal side that was kinda sticking there and even cut tire some when it was flexing and going into arch , so hopefully now that will fit without damage to tire or fenders in rear those rear extra reverse led lights works just amazing its not off road rear lights level but its much better now to going in dark in forests between trees and such places, i can see now there when reversing VDC working great with TC off, just goes tried to fix my LPG injectors. they not so complicated , looked for info and now they work better on LPG car goes better

good info thanks. yeah i maybe had one bad coil there, and coils i thinks are same on all H6 engines there. what about air filter what you did with that to protect so you could pass deeper waters , or what you would do to it ? dont remembr maybe you talked about it here too , if so i will look for it .

Cool stuff. Bit by bit soon youll have it in full excosceleton. With your h6 engine how you protected it from water splashes and such from bottom as those ignition coils are so low. How you sealed air box, or made new one? What most parts there that could be affected damaged by water in your opinion? I got cilinder misfirer after crossing deeper mud waters ,, so i changed that one coil , but how to protect those parts from water as they so low there.

new style front cv axles , different cv and inside stuff too, think mine is bad and i will change it as i got vibrations while accelerating in last weeks or so , thats after that subaru club mud trip where i give it more revs and got more water too before that was enjoying sea views

It supose to be snow but ohh well me and some local forester club enjoying some mud in forests me on used snow tires it was ok still My car now so big that normal forester compare to me looking small

so slowly its getting ready for more off road tracks . first made front recovery points and hilift jack points , and they jusy bolt on. nothing welded to car. veery pleased how it all was done and i think it will be very strong. pull of lift

nice. so stock forester still had fun with you, and its stock. means you dont need to go full baja to have fun on tracks do you ?

tried largest wheel that this gen can take , 28.5' size. without some midification you counldnt turn front wheels , but with some cuting and hammering it works now its on 225/65R17

so 1.1.2020 , year started great. still no mud no wet or snow, but still great start

looks good and strong. its good knowledge too for like other car who would want to use long travels so you can make those parts that cracks most on your cars as put extra layers of metal there from begining and make those parts stronger , would be good idea is it ? prevent that from cracking . i remember for some old cars they had like rally kits with some extra metal parts that needed be welded on car so it can take part of rally racing . something like that should be done from beginning on non rusty car so it would hold for longer dont you think ? maybe i missed some parts on your build , when you put long travel suspension , so for it to have that long travel up and down you needed to change those bushings didnt you ? because oem bushings wont let those links move much up and down ?

i think forester struts all ready lifted you about 2 inches, so its not good to do more just on struts, so yes more then 2-3'' lift then you do on subframe and other parts , and still real diff lift stays on 2'' . do you really need more ?