scalman

well outbacks 2005-2009 and with 3.0 comes at 4k euros and more some where less imported but they gone now and ones that left are cars that was driven localy for years means on all that salt too. but they all say no rust and i cant see any rust outside on pics at least. for me most important how it looks under in arches and under car. so i would see those when i would check car in place. car its some 100km from me , so i need to drive to see it . so he saying car cant drive far because coolant leaks pretty big and engine become hot fast. so now he dont wanna fix car so he lowered price to 1650 euros. and i was asking how much it would cost me to do head gaskets for this engine with all stuff like mill heads , changing all rubber stuff , valve adjustment it would be about 1k euros maybe more like to 1200. so in all still car would not be so much ...then i would add LPG to it ..but thats extra . only for head gaskets i could go cheaper maybe some 800 euros. so i dont know is it worth it. i mean why gaskets leaked was engine overheated or something else. or its all will be fine when changed gaskets. yes its low legacy but i will lift it some at first . maybe more later . not sure. i counted all 4 new shocks from outback as for lift legacy would be about 500 more with springs. so with outback new struts car would cost some over 3k. still less then they want for outbacks here . but now they said i would need to wait maybe some 2-3 weeks until they can fix my car .. and that i cant afford. i mean what im gonna do until then ? i can search for new cars for sale in those 2-3 weeks i maybe find something better . i thought it would be 2-3 days not weeks. cmon. i weld that arm to place and drive it now still yes . to work and back and on some good roads more far too. i think its holding for now. im not sure for other side though so im being carefull now not doing anything offroad or harsh turns and such. so better i find other car the better. i rly cant give new car for 2-3 weeks and wait for it . and from other side i weld it as well even more , i mean its not anymore removable. and i weld it to new metal that i did added before , not to rusty spoob that was on car. so its kinda all connected between now. its holds some more i hope.

Is it wise to buy legacy 3.0 with bad head gaskets ? Well for cheap , so even if i change gaskets in service place it would be ok price for me. So he said coolant goes out fast now in service they saying him its not pump but head gaskets , so they said price and owner wont fix it. I wonder would those head gaskets solve all problems for me and thats it cars fine for long time. Maybe its worth to buy and fix it. Not myself in service.

thats not good. and thanks for info. they say its just drop by drop not as leak a lot yet. and they know maybe how much it costs to fix in service garage so they dont wanna do it i think . they just wanna get rid of it . but how they know its pump and not head gaskets im thinking , hmm ? but its like half price for same year outback 3.0 , so even if i fix that that not myself it might be cheaper for me. vhange head gaskets its lot more expencive as a job i think , but im not sure . just guessing. like if i do it , it might be better do it in spring when weather will be warmer for me as i cant access garage for now.

well i looked at video how to do it on H6 engine and dont see any problem if do it when you remove radiator in front . or im mistaking ? so thats why maybe nobody buy that car, well so thats maybe good news for me if that car stays on sale for longer then . other thing if that leak is not much can i still drive that car for some time , like untill spring ? person says its just bit leaking when car is warm. so if i would still dirve it for couple months like that .. ? might be ok no ? even if i no do that myself if it not big leak i can drive car still i guess

Yes im looking for wagon only. So legacy wagon or outback. Just its not much to choose from . Plenty 2.5 manual models with dual range but very few 3.0 .one says water pump leaks coolant little. Wonder if its just water pump its not too bad . How do i see its really water pump leak and not head gasket

looking more into whats what , what does what and such . little comparison normal legacy vs normal outback vs lifted legacy on outback struts vs lifted outback and then legacy on outback struts plus 1'' spacers,

not sure those are universal camber bolts for all subarus around that year i guess. they can be some different looking but they all do same thing

So those next 3.0 engines are much better you think? Besides that they went from 154kw to 180kw. How you find that more power feel from 2.5 to 3.0 ? Some people say 3.0 na is more smooth on power and better to drive then 2.0 /2.5 turbo ones. Beast i mean from all subarus besides wrx ones, 180kw . I mean come from 2.5 115kw to 3.0 180kw should feel like a lot.

i did thought of sherokee but then read about them , people here selling only diesels and with lots miles on them i wonder why just diesels, maybe because they coming to that time when you need to repair some things that cost more money ...i dont need to buy car that i will need to repair then , change diesel injectors cost a lot if diesel pump its even more. petrol sherokees here are just older WJ ones and those very rare too. it sucks to choose car ...not much to choose from really here. forester turbos would be driven localy means with rust , or if not driven then they not very good with LPG and im not crawling all times with my outback , maybe i say too much about that VDC , thing is its not off road car for me its travel car, overland car more i guess, and yes i like to drive fast on forest roads too kinda rally style sometimes , but just to have more power , and have VDC system as option is allways better then not to have is it ? older forester here localy cost as much as newer outback or legacy so thats kinda stupid for me and then they sell them with 2.0 NA engine too , and some are worse with auto, they just not going, newer XT would be cool sure , but again its not like off road car for me its for all purposes , travel with 4 people and their bagages too, i kinda find that on those 2005-2009 outbacks or legacys that 3.0 engine must be amazing to drive and to have fun, plus you get that 5th gear at last. as i drove now this outback for some time i found that engine was just working perfect no matter oil low or collant low its still goes and keeps going , gearbox no problems too, not much to fix there , just some things that comes in price for lifting ... so my choice is like most powerfull model for that price that i can take woul be those until 2009 . why i would want instead forester for same price but 2004 model maybe with turbo and manual no dual range instead ? turbos need s more maintenance , they not so good on LPG as you ned to regulate those valves a lot. and 3.0 is more powerfull then turbos anyway.

3rd gen outback or 4 gen legacy lifted ? think legacy can look cool lifted too thinking what option could be better for me , cheaper , and outback struts or spacers can lift that legacy pretty easy i guess. and no i wont be putting my struts on it .. front ones are gone and rear ones.. duno , maybe as my rear self levels seems like working still. so maybe i will keep them. because i want 3.0 model there is not much here in country them to buy so i thought i should look then for legacys 3.0 too .. this way more choices.

Yup plenty foresters here. Any kind, 2.0 na 2.5 na ,2.0 turbo , xt 2.5 turbo. Just they kinda cost more then outbacks same year but are less equiped less comfy on seats i think, they never will have vdc until 2008 or smt, and i dont need street racer turbo forester. Or manual and burn clutch anytime i go offroad because turbo dont have dual range. Those angles and lift sure are nice but i dont think i will fit to sleep inside forester rear seats folded... I think better of 2005 outback manual dual range with 5mt then some older forester even turbo one. That dual range 2.5 outback would have 121kw it should be plenty. And im still considering about that...but then manual i dont know those well , guys from forester club here changing those clutches here like socks. I mean i dont want that. And that low range isnt that low there isnt it? Like 1:1.2 ration thats not a lot lower, does it feels much better going slow amd climbing ? Wich i could test some cars before buy i mean real like offroad test. Wonder how bad that older awd system would be even with manual dual range but in diagonals you left spinning one wheel. Put rear locker? Dont want that clicky car all over city on corners and such.

So i think this outback is done. That rust got him for good now. I kinda waited when it will brake something serious and it happened..sadly but now im looking for another car probably outback maybe same gen or 3rd gen. Lots 3rd gens 2.5 with manual dual range here. Wonder how it drives and is that low gear any good? Welded it to place with some extra metal plates on top so i could drive it to work for now , but its coming to end...it was amazing time my old friend....you served me good. For now looking at same gen but 3.0 models with VDC or 3rd gen 2.5 manual dual range 3rd gen 3.0 vdc Foresters...but i want outback as its bigger better equiped and i liked it traction control. Grand sherokees WJ / WK. But those would mean like double fuel cost for every drive so i duno , would be cool but lot more cost to travel 4.7 petrols or 2.7 /3.0 diesels Hmm maybe i need to give up and try some forester and see that...but they cost more and i will never find any for that price with any traction control and i doubt turbo models on manual / auto are good for offroading arent they?

If i could ask as you tried lots engines and transmissions , how those newer 2006 2.5 121kw on manual dual range outbacks would perform? Do they using still same AWD system as on ole foresters? Means in diagonal they becoming 1WD cars? 2006 outback 3.0 with 180 kw must be beast to drive with all that power?

just with forester struts and top hats it should be ok on CV joints, would look something like that thats with 215/60R16 wheels then you can go even more if want and put sruts spacers, or harder springs like kings to get it even more. you can take camber bolts too as they might be needed to put that camber into right position. oem bolts might be not enough anymore.

i didint counted now but when i did euro trip on those 5.5k km i put about 5l oil so was about 1l to 1000km . problem is not that it uses it only that it leaves it on ground where i leave car , even in shop parking places. yes i need rust free car i agree. dont have any savings , so my only option take like loan from bank or something and pay then monthly for couple years. thats how we buy here almost all stuff anyway. i did again now one valve cover and i think now its dry not leaking so leak comes from other things so must be head gaskets then. maybe its not worthy do that job if i will need soon other car, but if i would get same model just newer year and maybe 3.0 model i could like use this car as some kind spares ..i duno.. i dont have place to keep extra car anyway so duno . i payed for this about 1500 euros i guess. other outback same model maybe newer year maybe with H6 3.0 engine would be maybe 2.5-3k euros now . or take next generation car that would go from 3.5k - 4k euros. but thats kinda a lot money. but to get car almost rust free it must be grought back from some country where is not much rust no salt no winter . we have some of those from time to time here too just need to find it . then again would like more power so 3.0 model would be better i guess. and its still good on fuel. would put LPG too. i thought maybe i wanted some grand sherokee similar year for similar price but now i duno, maybe its too costy to keep and if its diesel then its more cost for fuel so i will travel less then. and those monsters with 4.7 engines that takes LPG eats like 20l minimum i guess. so im not sure what to do. take another outback, same gen or newer gen ? hmm. newer gen could be 2.5 motor with dual range manual, but that wont have any traction control and im so used to it now . only 3.0 models would have VDC on 3rd gen outback , meaning 2005-2009 and they can cost more. forersters not cheaper and they cost similar bus can be with 2.0 engine only or turbos. and i guess turbos have some problem with manual and no dual range on offroad not best option. and then clutch will get worn fast i guess. and not that long as outback so maybe i wont fit to sleep in back on forester. lots of thoughts. what to do. what to buy. my car ending MOT in november too so thats another problem too.

Any ideas is that head gaskets or smt else ? Engine oil goes lower with time No other liquids goes low just engine well and coolant with time

cheap but very affective reverse light upgrade

thanks. i like it too. did front too

nice campsite near sea. cars still alive its nice to see them all. good thing when going with couple friends other cars you can try some places without fear to get stuck alone.

russians build it for strategic reasons in 1893 , started using it at 1906 . then it was no need anymore so they wanted to destroy it with explosives but it was just build too strong , later germans tried to destroy it too couldnt manage. But sea did it better , so they just colapsed to sea. they go for about 5km across beach. there is more building in forest and all city around was strategic place back then. more info about that all city there https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karosta it has some left submarine garage , cant visit there

working on your car its best part , and then driving it after its even better.

guess thats why you need those trailing arm spacers too with strut spacers in rear for those models to make those links return to straight possition , because without it they suffer more. they all bended to one side like all time when car sits on wheels on its weight their still in this possition. some hold long but some like lower one with camber bolt just goes out faster.